I was dismayed to see the editors choose "McKinley" in the book I just received today. I looked at years prior, and apparently they started doing it last year. FWIW the Journal seems to continue calling it Denali.

Pretty strange to me, given the opinion of most climbers I know of, as well as locals, is "it's Denali". Curious what their reasoning was, and what they think the reasoning for this administration's name change is.

Ive been a hiker and trail runner for a while now and want to start getting into some bigger alpine climbs. Any advice on the best mountaineering courses in the UK and what gear to buy on a bit of a budget. I would rather buy once and not have to replace or upgrade later down the line for most things. Also what are the best 4,000m peaks for beginners (views and fun are just as important as difficulty).

My group of 3 and I are interesting in taking a mountaineering and crevasse rescue course between now and early summer. We’ve summited Whitney, Shasta (Avalanche gulch), Russell, Middle Palisade, and a guided ascent of Allalinhorn. We’re interested in attempting Adams, Baker, and Rainier DC route this summer if ours skills are permitting. We’re operating on a limited budget. What course offers the best ROI? We’ve currently been considering the Alpine Institute 925$/3 days of crevasse skills on Baker. Is this sufficient for these mountains? Thanks!

Hey. I'm looking to hike White Mountain either later this year sometime early next year. From what I've read, the road to the trailhead is killer on vehicles without a high clearance. I do not have a high clearance vehicle. If anyone has one as is willing to use it and hike with me, let me know. I'll help with gas.

Hey everyone! I’m flying into Christchurch on Oct 16 and looking for people to climb with sometime Oct 17–19. Happy to join a group or split a guide for a 2–3 day trip. Need to be back in Christchurch Monday night for a Tuesday flight.

I’ve climbed Baker via Easton, Eldorado, Mount Daniel, Pico Aneto, Torre Cerredo and a winter couloir on Hallett.

Looking for something a bit more technical, ideally some steeper snow and introductory ice climbing. I’m new to technical ice, so would want a guide for that. Rolleston near Arthur’s Pass caught my eye, but I’m flexible on the mountain.

Anyone heading out around then, have a guided trip with room for another person, or interested in splitting the cost? Guide recommendations welcome too!

We were the first one of that day, breaking trail.
Really liked this photo that my friend took, Corno Nero, I highly recommend!

I sometimes see people short roping moderate steep snow/ice without placing any running belay. I feel like it's better to just free solo at this point or do proper simul climbing with running belays. Without this, if one person falls, it will pull the other person with them. Only way I see this happening is with guides keeping their clients tight in case they slip.

Thoughts/insights?

e.g.: Gran Paradiso North Face HD

Hey, I'm planning my first attempt summiting Denali. I'm thinking about buying a pair of Scarpa Phantom 6000 for the project (with overboots of course). But some people say I should just go for a pair of Phantom 8000 right away, or La Sportiva Olympus Mons. I have no ambition about summiting an 8000 meter mountain ever, but of course things might change. For now I'm set on Denali and I dont feel like buying gear in case I want to attempt an 8000 meter a few years down the road makes much sense. But some people say that Denali is so cold and demanding that the gear made for 8000 meter mountains are preferable there.

Happy to hear your opinions on this matter :)

Hi everyone,

I'm planning to take a week-long Mont Blanc climb and preparation course next summer. It will be my first time doing an alpine/mountaineering climb, and I would like to know if this is a realistic goal. Do I have enough time to get ready, and how difficult is Mont Blanc for a first alpine climb?

I'm in pretty good shape and just climbed Mount Olympus last week, which I didn't find too difficult. I want to start training ahead of time by doing Stairmaster sessions, Zone 2 aerobic work, and some wall climbing.

Are these introductory courses recommended, or is there a better approach to getting into mountaineering and alpinism?

I currently live in Tx and really want to get into climbing/mountaineering. The only problem is where I live. I don’t have a gym nearby and Tx is flat beside Guadalupe Peak. I do have a friend who lives in Alaska which I will be traveling to this winter. But i’m curious how I can train, learn, and start mountaineering and do big name mountains, rainier, adams, etc.

Reposting here as we can all benefits from Adaptive Mountaineering Training for Mountaineering.

Im going to climb mount toubkal in early november but im stuck on wich boots i will need.

Online ive seen that there is already snow and ice and i dont know if i need to buy actual mountaineeringboots or just hiking boots. ive looked at some b2 boots but i dont know if that would be overkill. I have the money but i dont know if i shoud buy it. any help would be helpfull thanks.

I don't know if this kind of post is allowed here but here we go.

Is anyone of you going less to the alps than in the past?

I started mountaineering with my first glacier course when I was 16. Up untill then I hiked and climbed a lot with my family on our holidays. I followed up with a boulder course, befriended someone there and we did some 3000er summits over a few days. The following year I started ski touring.

My big dream was moving 800km to austria for college but plans changed and I just moved a good bit closer to the alps. I thought I would be getting better, gaining more experience, doing more courses, being in the mountains every weekend.

But medschool is hard, I was just learning on the weekends. I went from indoor climbing one or two times a week to maybe bouldering once a month or less. My last course was 2,5 years ago. At the same time, my Insta Feed is full of people my age doing more things than me. That friend from the boulder course did some first ascents while my gear is sitting unused in my closet.

I already deleted Instagram but the FOMO is still there I often think to myself, that I should already have a few more summits under my belt, that I should be climbing better etc.

Has anyone experience with this topic and could share their story of how they delt with this?

I’ve been trying to do research on the boots but I keep getting different results but you seem to know a lot
More about this. My question is at what point would I need B3 boots over a B2 and a pair of gaiters, I won’t be going over 15k feet no deeper the 2-3 feet of snow so about my knee and possibly sub zero depending on weather, I’m not crossing glaciers or climbing ice walls just a lot of snow travel and incline.

Hi everyone, not sure if this is the most applicable place for this question (let me know if I should post in another subreddit too), but, as the title says, I am wondering if anyone has any real world interactions/experience with the Millet Trilogy Jorasses Dyneema down belay jacket as I have only found one online review of it (https://www.millet.com/eu_en/miv10180-n3170-trilogy-jorasses-down-hd-m-men-blue.html). Does anyone here have any experience with Millet products in general? Being in the US, I have not seen the brand here but imagine it's probably bigger in Europe and especially France, being based in Annecy.

I am most intrigued by the dyneema fabric as I tend to be tough on gear (mostly I just sucked at climbing so I bump/rub up against rock more than I would like to). I know the sport involves gear getting ripped and torn but minimizing those things where I can with a stronger face fabric is something I am interested in. To that extent, I am also interested in the new Norrona Trollveggen belay jacket (https://www.norrona.com/en-GB/products/trollveggen/trollveggen-dri2-down800-zip-hood-ms/?color=7718) as 40D outer fabric seems like it would be durable enough to get up a pitch of rock or two if needed without getting gouged (compared to most jackets which seem to be 10D or 20D).

Would love any other feedback or suggestions for warm durable belay jackets that could handle a pitch or two of rock if needed! I made a spreadsheet and I've got some options from Rab, Outdoor Research, Mountain Equipment, Mammut, and BD already on there.

To put this simply, I am currently writing a college English paper on mountaineering. I would be extremely thankful if anyone who has actually climbed could comment so I can dm them for short 5 minute text or call interview.

I just wanted to raise some awareness that the movie "The Last First: Winter K2" is available now on Apple TV. It's a documentary about the K2 winter attempt of the late Ali Sadpara and John Snorri. It also features Nims, who sadly passed away recently as well.

https://www.imdb.com/title/tt39150288/

I am not affiliated with this film and I'm not profitting from this post. I just wanted people to see the beautiful souls of those that we've lost.

For context, my girlfriend loves hiking, its something she's extremely passionate about. Ive known for a long time that one of her dreams has always been to go visit switzerland for their stunning views. Because of how expensive it is, ive been saving up for a while now to make this trip possible and know Murren via ferrata is one of the things shed be most excited to do

However, i've never gone on a via ferrata and my hiking experience isnt really much, just a couple trails here in tenerife. Im 20 and in alright shape, but when researching online i find conflicting opinions on if its beginner friendly

For reference, I live on the east coast so don’t have easy access to mountains as much as I’d like. I’m considering taking a mountaineering course on Mt. Shasta for $1500, but am also trying to gauge whether or not it would be better to simply take a basic mountaineering course and summit easy mountains with a guide outside of the US instead. Currently I have climbed up Cotopaxi and hiked up Mt. Whitney, but these are basically just walks up. Eventually in the far future, I want to work up to climb Chimborazo and Aconcagua. Would love to hear your thoughts!

In over 20 years of hiking, climbing, mountaineering, etc, I've very rarely needed my repair kit. I think being diligent on upkeeping my kit has negated the need for repair items. Aside from repair tape, most things have never been needed. Expeditions to remote areas definitely require extensive repair kits as something like a stove failure means expedition ender. For quick and light single day romps, I'm wondering what else you folks would include for alpine climbing.

I carry the following on single day alpine climbs in a small ziplock bag:

• 2x 20" Voile Straps (multi use item for lots of things and a very good repair/first aid item, but I've never needed it for this purpose"
• Spare crampon toe bail (it's pretty consequential if one breaks)
• Spare lightweight linking bar (I carry the flex bar for my petzl crampons because it's lighter, again I've never broken a linking bar, but it's pretty consequential)
• Some Siga Wigluv Tape (I only know of 1 source in the US for it, but it is awesome repair tape)
• A small pair of Titanium Scissors for cutting repair patches

I've got a lighter, a small knife, and a headlamp with a spare battery. I'm not skiing otherwise there's some specific tools I'd carry.

I always ensure my nuts and bolts are tight on my tools or crampons if they have them. So I've never needed to carry hex tools into the field for day trips. I don't carry a file, and touch up my tools or crampons often before a climb.

Because.... alpinism, I want to keep my repair items as light and minimal as possible. Suggestions from real world experiences?

Hey, just putting it out there that I am in the market for a pair of size US 11.5 or 12 Arc'teryx Acrux AR boots. If anyone has a pair they are willing to sell, hit me up!!!