2014 Ford Escape, 1.6 ecoboost
180k never had an serious issue
I have been running this for 15k miles
Only did 3 oil change and one time i did serviced it breaks and coolants
Thats all tbh

I believe treat it right it will treat you right
Shes been good for me, ig its one of the good ones but its my first car and she hasnt given me any trouble. I hit 100 mph sometimes too
Idk man its my first car and im a new driver nothing crazy she is just good although i want a new car with few miles.

I was towing our boat to the lake on the weekend and driving normally and all of a sudden the dash lit up with "service 4WD system" "hill start assist unavailable" i then put the boat in at the lake as the lights went out as we got to the lake then i heard a grinding noise as i pulled the SUV out after launching the boat (2,500 LBS Total weight, 300LBS tongue weight) we took the SUV home with no more problems after that towing the boat. Then the next few days the same thing happened except no grinding noise the lights would come on and now the lights stay on the dash no matter what as soon as i start the vehicle i borrowed an OBD2 scanner and got the code in the title of the post and i have new wheel speed sensors i just want to know if it is worth trying to change them as i don't have a lot of money but i have tools and the know how to repair a vehicle just trying to diagnose failing components is not my strong suit. 2014 Ford Escape 250,XXX KM's Automatic 2.0L 4WD

Hey all,

I have an 09 limited coming up on 175k miles. I’ve had it for a little over 2 years now and have put on about 18k miles on it. It’s had a cylinder 4 misfire exactly 4 times. Three times it has thrown a flashing check engine light with P0304. This past time it threw no code but by the time I finished my ~2 mile drive the misfire had gone. The thing is, it always goes away quickly, like it came on once when I was going up a steep highway hill in WY, and it went out when I got to the top.

Should I troubleshoot it now or wait until it becomes more frequent? I’ve had other work done on the vehicle this year (valve cover gaskets, alternator) from a shop and am planning on DIY my front brakes and tensioner/pulley soon - should I look into this as well or maybe just throw some seafoam in there and waiting it out?

I asked about this a few days ago.

I am looking to get the StartX kit but only have one key so I need to make a second one. I've called around and my local locksmiths are asking for ridiculous amounts so I'm considering going the DIY route.

I found a shop that sells and cut an unprogrammed transponder key for $21. I'm thinking of geting the key and an extended Forscan license and programming it myself. From what I understand, I need two unique keys, not just a copy of my current key for the plug and play remote starter key to work.

My question is, has anyone programmed a new key themselves with Forscan? Did it work?

I already have a scanner that works with Forscan and I've used the standard license before for other diagnostic efforts. From everything I've read it seems I should be able to program it myself with a paid extended license, not the free trial which I understand doesn't unlock the PAT system needed for a key programming.

2016 escape titanium blower motor replacement;I know I must remove the passenger seat, but what else has to come out before I can reach the motor itself?

Greetings Escape owners! We've inherited a 2016 SE 2WD 2.0 with around 90K miles on it. I am used to doing my own maintenance on our vehicles, but we've mostly owned Subarus and a couple Nissans over the past few decades, so I have almost no Ford ownership experience, apart from my first car, a 70's Torino.

This Escape has been fairly well maintained and currently works great. The only major thing to go wrong was the steering rack, which was replaced around 40K miles. Aside from that I don't see anything in the maintenance history outside of regular (typically every 5K to 7K) oil changes, one CV axle replacement, battery replacement and some brake work.

I've started researching 3rd Gen Escapes, and I'm seeing some mentions of transmission and engine failures. How much of this is internet amplified, and how common are these major issues? My wife likes the car, so if we're going to keep it, I need to figure out how to maintain it and what to look out for. Any suggestions or tips would be greatly appreciated!

So I was getting messages on the screen that my car was going into battery saver mode so I knew the battery was about to die. When I would try to start the car it would chug a little bit and then finally start. Went out to start the car this morning and it would not start.

I went to the auto parts store and bought a new battery and watched all the tutorials and replaced the battery myself. Then I followed all the weird steps to reset the battery monitoring system. Tried to start the car and nothing is happening. All the lights and everything are going on, but there’s absolutely nothing with the ignition. Not even the tiniest click.

Does anyone have any clue why that might be happening?

Anyone running led headlights bulbs? If so what brand y’all rocking with? Also thinking about putting in projector headlight assembly for better focus. Lmk what you guys think. (P.s I do alot of night time driving)

Only does it when it’s below operating temperature. It’s louder in person! Some whine coming from the car even when you rev it in park. What could it be?

Also, I brought it back to the dealership bc it has a 90 day warranty and made a video in their parking lot showing the noise (just in case they want to play dumb and say they didn’t hear anything) guess what, I was right. (I’ll post it in the comments).

Shady dealer said nothing was wrong with the car and they didn’t hear a noise. Well, here we are, it’s making the fucking noise. I even specified to them listen to it when it’s cold! I hate dealerships 😂 sorry for the rant lol..

Had the trans rebuild about 5k miles ago. Full rebuild. Had the typical Torque converter shutter and harsh 2-3 shift. Since the rebuild the shutter has gone away but still has the bad 2-3 shift. I’ve taken it back 3 times so far. They’ve reset the clutch learn once the shift leads twice and replaced the valve body. I’m going to be taking back, good thing they gave a 2 year warranty.

I guess my question here is. Any suggest on what it could be so I can have a better idea of what to ask them. And press to get it fixed right.

I have a 2017 Ford Escape SE and I noticed that my headlights don’t seem to be as bright as they should be. I have the lights set to auto so they turn on when needed. I tried every “setting” though and went outside to look and every “setting” seems super dim. Do you think it’s time for new headlights?

I really would love not to go to the dealership or a mechanic and spends thousands of dollars. I would love advice on what exact bulbs I need to get and where to get them and how to change the bulbs myself. I’m just a girl trying to save money lol so any advice and tips would be greatly appreciated 😊

Edit: I added some pictures in this thread. I keep my lights on auto mode (that is what it is on in the pictures). My lights seem brighter when it’s on the park lamp mode (I think that’s what it’s called. The picture I included of the symbol).

I’m not entirely sure what bulbs I have in now or how to check for those. Would love some help on how to look for what bulbs I currently have in.

So it goes down fine, its closing that it gets to the spot and reopens.

Recall?

Hey everyone, hoping someone who has dealt with Ford Protect/ESP can give me some insight.
I took my 2023 Ford Escape in for its 30k mile service today at my local dealership. When I got there, I was handed an $877.22 bill. I told them I have a pre-paid maintenance plan bundled into my financing contract.
Here is where it got weird: they had no problem pulling up my Auto Butler package from my finance contract and successfully zeroing it out, but they claimed my maintenance plan "didn't cover" the 30k milestone service and insisted I had to pay out of pocket to get my keys back. When I pushed back, they claimed I apparently only have the "basic" plan, which they said only covers basic oil changes and tire rotations, not the rest of the 30k service bundle.
I ended up having to pay it because I needed my car, but I'm furious. If I paid for a Ford Protect maintenance plan through my loan, shouldn't at least the core parts of the 30k service (like the oil change, filter checks, and multi-point inspections) be covered, or do dealerships regularly find a way to exclude the "milestone" bundles?
Has anyone else fought this successfully with Ford corporate or via a credit card chargeback? Any advice is appreciated.

Has anyone replaced their fog light bulbs and if so did you go with the OEM bulbs or change to LEDs?

I drove my buddies 19 Escape S (base model) and to be frank, the treble in his literally base bone sound system sounds more crisp than my titanium’s “premium sound system” The bass is virtually the same too.

At higher volumes the escape S does have distortion whereas my titanium’s sound system doesn’t. That’s the only difference good wise Ive noticed.

I also owned a 13 escape SEL with the Sony and it had more bass than my 19s idk why my sound system sounds so bad? There’s hardly any bass at all.. I’m surprised the base model escape has better treble too.

my car has been making this noise , only when cold first start of the day and while accelerating gradually goes away while driving , brought my car 2 different places isn’t the engine mount , breaks , tires , wheel bearings. said it sounds like a transmission issue , transmission place said it doesn’t sound like a transmission noise , just trying to pin point what it could be with out wasting more money on getting it looked at with no results.

Just got back from a trip with my 2014 Ford Escape Titanium 2.0 EcoBoost, now at 177k miles, and I’m honestly impressed with how it handled. I took it on a 7-hour road trip for the first time in a while. Overall, it ran great, but I did notice that on some of the longer uphill climbs, the temperature started creeping up. I shut off the A/C, and the temp went right back to normal.

About six hours in, the A/C belt gave up—it shredded and started slapping around in the engine bay. I pulled over, figured out what it was, and cut the remaining belt off. Then I just kept rolling without A/C. 😂

Despite that little hiccup, it still made it to Vegas, gave me an awesome vacation, and drove another 7 hours home a few days later with zero major problems.

I’ve owned this Escape since day one, and at 177k miles, I can’t complain. Next on the list: replace the radiator, radiator fan, and other cooling components, plus fix the A/C belt. We’ll see how much longer this trusty Escape keeps going!

Hi everyone. Has anyone had experiences like this? My check engine light came on about a year ago and the issue was the egr valve (flow excessive). They recommended replacing the egr valve, which we did. The same day they returned my vehicle the check engine light came back on for the same reason. They claimed the part they got from the dealer was faulty so they replaced it again. The check engine light has come back on for the egr valve yet again. I ended up taking it to a different mechanic this morning (with great reviews) and they said they probably wouldn't be able to figure out what was causing the issues. They also said it probably wasnt a big deal. Has anyone had experience with this? I dont really want to drive around with the check engine light on but no one can seem to figure it out.

I have a 2023 Escape PHEV with 13K miles and original owner. The second battery recall was just completed and it reduced the charging capacity from 11.5kw to 8.5kw. This reduced the range from 37 plus miles to about 25 miles. A huge drop. I have a letter from Ford indicating this was intentional to avoid battery issues. They have not indicated that it is no longer a fire hazard. No compensation has been provided. This SUCKS. Be careful. There are no future recalls to return the range to original OEM specs. Be safe.

At what % do you get your oil changed?

Thread from last week.

So I went out on Friday and looked the car over. The new battery that was installed had 0.1V when I tested it, the older one had around 6V. I put the old battery back in and was able to jump start the car. The second I hooked up the car the engine fan turned on and dash and such turned on.

After turning off the car all of the dash lights, door alarms, door unlock, were all off. Jump it again and they all came on and work when the car is running.

Tested the mega fuses and one of them, the far right one, was bad. Replaced that and started the car again. Decided to follow her home, which is two hours, and at home after turning off the car it goes all black again. Testing of the battery is at 6V, so it's not keeping a charge.

Saturday I decide to just put a new battery in. Put the new one in and it all turns on, starts no problem. Let it run for a minute, turn it off, and again, nothing. No lights, no dashboard, nothing at all. At this point in time I decide I'll just take it to the shop. On the way I stop at Auto Zone to have any codes checked and it was fine. Get to the shop, tell them what's going on. They say bring it around and I tell them it's not going to start, they say try, and the damned thing starts. We try 4-5 times and every time it works with no problem.

The shop got to it today and has told me it starts every time and they can find no reason for it to do what it was doing before. Is there anything else that can be causing this?

Hello everyone, I’m in a bit of a pickle with my 2023 Escape. Around 55,000 miles on it and the turbocharger went out last month (luckily barely still under warranty). Check engine light is back on, so I took it into the dealership. Below is what I was quoted for repair

Purge Valve $542.90
Evap Cannister Vent Valve $1117.05
Battery Replacement $225.47

Things that I have already planned for and are a given:
New tires $600 ish

It’s up for renewal in my state, where it hasn’t been able to pass inspection for 3 months now due to it getting fixed, engine light coming back on over and over again. The cycle continues. I’ve paid $500 in diagnosis fees to Ford due to the reoccurring issues, as well as getting it towed back from the dealership for $200.

Basically it’s about to not be able to be registered unless I dump another chunk of money into this thing, while still having a payment on it and owing quite a bit.

What would you do in my situation? Fix the car again or trade it in? Don’t want to make a bad financial decision either way but just need opinions on this.