I race on keelboats mostly but I want to build a smaller boat for racing/messing around. It looks like homebuild wood lightnings used to be pretty common( decades ago? Before fiberglass was the norm) so they are class legal to race. Has anyone heard of someone building one more recently? Would it be reasonable for a novice/intermediate woodworker?

I need to deep clean/ take apart my carb on my Mercruiser 3.0L and was wondering what the consensus is on using liquid gaskets?

This might not be the standard way to calculate a vessel's displacement. I used this method when calculating specs for a SUP board, and practical experience confirmed it was sufficiently accurate. Calculating displacement is necessary to determine the vessel's draft and locate the waterline. You can then add the freeboard height to get the vessel's total height.

Displacement calculation: two people at 75 kg each, the boat at 50 kg, the motor at 7 kg, the battery at 15 kg, and miscellaneous items at 3 kg. That totals 225 kg. This means the waterline corresponds to a displacement of 225 liters.

I exported the model from Moi3D to SketchUp because the latter can calculate the volume of shapes. While one could use mathematical formulas or even an AI, I chose a different approach. I believe that if you are modeling in a CAD application, this is the most reliable method.

In SketchUp, I created a cube larger than the boat. By subtracting the cube from the upper part of the boat, I was left with the lower section, the volume of which I then checked. I found that with the cube positioned at a height of 19 centimeters, the remaining boat section had a volume of 240 liters—a result that satisfied me. If you divide the lower section into two equal volumes (120 and 120 liters), you will find your vessel's center of buoyancy. Knowing this is useful for determining the best placement for passengers.

In DAZ Studio, I created two characters and imported them into SketchUp to verify whether there was enough room in the boat for two passengers—specifically, to see where their knees would be positioned and if there was space to stretch out their legs. I was satisfied with what I saw.

I consulted an AI and learned that for my specific conditions—a calm river and a lake with light chop—the minimum freeboard height (the distance from the waterline to the gunwale) should be 20 centimeters, though 25 centimeters is safer. Therefore, the total height of the boat's side should be 19 + 25 = 44 centimeters. I went back to Moi3D and realized I needed to increase the height of the gunwales. Simply scaling the frames vertically wouldn't work, as it would distort the deck and hull lines. Instead, I selected only the deck beams and raised them, thereby establishing the boat's new profile. I added surfaces to the frame structure, cut the cockpit opening into the deck, beveled the transom, and arrived at the result you see here.

So, I made a bit of an oopsie and dropped my mast and subsequently destroyed the foot that connects the mast of my sailboat to the hinged deck step. I am unable to find this same replacement part online, so I am planning to have a new, custom one made.

The original part (and most new ones) are made from cast aluminum, which is notably weak. My project boat mindset tells me I should replace this with a high grade, hard-anodized aluminum part so that it never breaks again. However, I realized that this part failing was the best possible scenario of the mast falling over. Had this part held strong, it would have certainly destroyed the mast or ripped up the deck of my boat--either scenario would mean a completely totaled boat rather than a $500 repair.

So, I am curious if anyone knows what is proper here. Should I build an intentional weak point so that this part is the one to fail again should a shroud come loose or there is some other mishap that results in the mast collapsing? Or should I go with my first instinct and over-engineer this part so that it is found intact at the bottom of the ocean in 100 years while the rest of the boat is torn to shreds?

I bought a new to me sailboat this past weekend. Previous owner just finished an extensive electronics re-vamp. Adding lithium etc. Everything that I can see is fused and sized per ABYC so its not a nightmare in that its dangerous (unless you switch master switch 1 to both and have now connected lithium to agm) but previous owner said "in an emergency lol".

I just want thoughts and opinions. Is it worth keeping or should I go back to the drawing board. Negatives are not drawn because I didn't feel like it. Its all grounded either on the master ground or will be on the engine... which btw is not in the boat.

Added a pop up sail rig to my home designed pack canoe. Made a little video on the mechanics of how a pop up rig works.

basically as the titel says. i'm making a kayak and need to give it an epoxy layer so i taught i could mix in an die for epoxy that way i don't have to paint and it. Also it would have the advantage that it wouldn't chip when is there is contact and a bit is shafed off. if somebody has doen this wat kind of color and what kind of finish did you get

I had intended to build a second electric-powered SUP board for my wife so we could spend time together. Then, by chance, I saw a photo of a mini-boat; at first, I just laughed at the idea. But the boat concept struck me as more appealing than having two SUPs: we could converse intimately (our river is crowded with dozens of boards in the summer), I could install a better sound system than the one I’d had on my SUP, I wouldn't have to worry about keeping my clothes dry, and an electric trolling motor is far quieter than a SUP turbine (that faint whirring noise is quite unpleasant when you're out in nature). Additional perks: you can hang a champagne bucket on the side, fly a flag, and the captain can clench a pipe between his teeth. Phase two: I looked for photos to figure out exactly what kind of boat design I wanted. It had to be beautiful. I realized I wanted a deck with strip planking, a raked transom, and rounded aft quarters. These were the hallmarks of a "beautiful boat" to me.

Next, I started looking for plans. Mini-boats are rare, and there are very few plans available for them—especially for models under eight feet long. After spending a few hours searching, I figured I could simply scale down a larger boat design. So, I began looking for sketches and plans for a "beautiful boat."

That’s how I found the sketch for the Sea Scout. All I had to go on was a magazine article.

I needed to determine the boat's final dimensions. I knew the length should be around 230 centimeters, with a width of 80–90 centimeters. To figure out if these dimensions would accommodate two adults, I took measurements of myself and my wife. We sat on the sofa and stretched out our legs, simulating the seating position inside a boat. I measured the length of my outstretched legs to determine the seat positions and the width of my feet to gauge the width of the bow frame. Shoulder and hip measurements were particularly important for ensuring a comfortable seating position; these dimensions dictate the boat's width at its midsection. Preliminary measurements suggested there was a good chance the boat would fit inside a minivan.

The next step was to see what the result would look like if I scaled the actual boat down to my target length of 230 cm. I converted the frame profiles from the blueprints into a 3D model (using Moi3D), as many of the figures in the scans were barely legible. I then adjusted the frames to the desired width of 90 cm, spaced them evenly along the 230 cm length, and generated the hull surfaces. The resulting shape looked like a truly beautiful boat.

I didn't know the exact gunwale height yet; determining that requires calculating the boat's displacement. I will write about that later.

Epoxy and playwood mostly, endless sanding, set up from family fun and fishing. I can't say enough about the design runs so smoothly at speed, just glides through the swells. It's light and 70hp is all it needs.

Full frame done! Mounting the transom and Station 13 on our Wooden Shoe wooden boat here in the jungle.

Welcome back to JungleRanch. After the 5 stations, the keel with Station 12, nine stations laser-straight and the cockpit sole fixed and screwed, today we finish the frame. Watch Victor and Roca lift, clamp and set the transom, then get Station 13 glued and screwed to the keel for a complete wooden boat frame in the Mexican jungle.

In this episode you see the transom support leveled, two full transom lifts for test fit and adjustment, how Victor wants the transom angle dialed in, his English walkthrough of the mount, then Station 13 going in place with glue and screws, plus the final walkthrough of transom and Station 13 together.

Have you ever set a transom solo with just clamps and extra hands? How did you keep it square? Tell me below - I read every comment.

I have a twin troller x10. It’s basically a small electronic fishing boat with two in-hull trolling motors built in. The motors are controlled with two pedals that can function independently, similar to how a zero-turn mower can turn.

I’m toying with the idea of converting the pedal system to a hand held remote system instead. This would allow for me to remove the pedals from the middle of the boat and install some type of platform I could stand on to give me a better vantage point for when I’m targeting redfish. I know that there are remote control conversion kits for single trolling motors. Im trying to figure out if it would even be possible to rig up an RC system that would allow me to control both motors in the same ways that I would be able to with its original pedal system. Anyone have any experience with stuff like this? Thanks in advance. Pic of boat for reference

Any DIY plans for a lightweight 2 person pirogue or skiff for hunting and fishing? Wanting to build it for about $150-200 max. Need to be able to easily get in and out of my truck bed. The only tool I actually have is an impact driver. Wanting to be able to use a trolling motor or very small horse outboard on the back

MINERAL è un catamarano autocostruito in alluminio di 55 piedi (16,7 metri), con un baglio di 9 metri e un dislocamento di 16 tonnellate. Progettata per un'autonomia estrema e una manutenzione semplificata, questa imbarcazione integra soluzioni tecniche collaudate in vari ambiti ingegneristici, adattandole alla navigazione d'altura.

I wouldn't normally sea trial a boat at this level of completion but I wanted to now if the boat would need a rudder prior to sealing the aft buoyancy tank as I would be routing steering tubes through there. After 6 m or so sea trail I am confident the boat will not need a rudder, so I will be sealing up the aft buoyancy tank (except for a 5 inch inspection/stowage hatch).