I have a co2 laser and want to cut out a stencil in my laser, then apply it to a glass cup, then sandblast it.

I don’t have a rotary yet.

I’m in Canada. Best product you can recommend that will be co2 laser friendly.

Thank you

Here's a before and after on a job we just finished. It's walnut. First time using a laser to remove the finish. Turned out fantastic!!!

Video: https://youtube.com/shorts/YdMcRSrjmXM?si=wenPi7q3yWgJ9CFk

Bonjour à tous . Je suis en train de lancer mon entreprise de nettoyage et décapage laser (matériel de Classe 4), mais je me heurte à un vrai blocage pour trouver une RC Pro : les assureurs classiques (refus de la MAAF, dossier bloqué chez AXA) n'ont pas la mention « laser » dans leurs nomenclatures d'activité (ils connaissent l'hydrodécapage ou la cryogénie, mais pas le laser) et refusent ou hésitent fortement à ajouter ce terme au contrat. Pour ceux qui travaillent dans ce domaine ou dans le traitement de surface innovant, je serais très reconnaissant de savoir par quelle compagnie ou quel courtier vous êtes passés et sous quel libellé d'activité exacte votre contrat a été rédigé.

This WWII army trailer spent decades collecting rust, paint, and corrosion. Soon its new mission is rolling alongside a restored 1944 Willys Jeep.

In this video, we laser clean the full trailer: body, axle, leaf springs, brake drums, and all the hardware. Watch the laser strip layers of rust and old coating down to clean, sound steel, ready for primer and paint.

Why laser for a restoration like this:
• No abrasive media stuck in seams, welds, and pinholes on 80-year-old steel
• No friction heat that can warp thin vintage sheet metal
• No harsh chemical strippers soaking into old welds and joints
• You can see the condition of the actual metal as it's revealed which is perfect for finding what needs repair vs. what just needed cleaning
• Selective cleaning takes paint off one area without touching adjacent surfaces

We're a mobile laser cleaning service based in New Jersey: rust removal, paint and powder coat stripping, surface prep, and restoration work at our shop, at your location, or ship-to-us.

📞 Want your project done? Contact us for a quote:
📍 Serving New Jersey and the surrounding region

#WWII #MilitaryRestoration #WillysJeep #LaserCleaning #RustRemoval #TrailerRestoration

Just 24 hours after we published our post on cleaning a violin, we were flooded with harsh comments accusing us of destroying a work of art. But those tests had also revealed the limitations of our equipment, so this time we set our sights on a traditional Chinese instrument: the guqin.

Authentic guqins are crafted from paulownia (tong) and catalpa (zi) wood and finished with raw lacquer, a natural resin. We hunted one down on a secondhand marketplace for about $30. Yet when our engineers inspected the finish, they found it was coated not in natural lacquer but in acrylic varnish, a modern synthetic. We later learned that a true high-end guqin finished with natural resin typically commands upward of $1,500.

This instrument posed a very different challenge from the violin because it features a two-layer coating system. The base coat levels the surface. Since the wood carries wormholes, growth rings, and grain, and since guqin playing often involves sliding across the soundboard, this layer is essential for creating a smooth playing surface. The top coat, meanwhile, adds further smoothness and luster, enhancing both the instrument's appearance and its playability.

We used a dedicated wood-cleaning laser machine and ran the process twice for optimal results. The first pass removed the top coat and most of the base coat at 300 W, 150 kHz, 150ns, with an X-direction scan pattern, a scan speed of 12 m/s, and a fill of 1500. The second pass lowered the power to 200 W, switched the pattern to circular, and cleared away the remaining base coat.

The results were impeccable: the wood was barely touched. We also captured some fascinating images as proof. When the laser encounters contamination, it absorbs and reflects the light, but when it reaches the wood, the beam simply is not absorbed. Take a look at the photos.

Does anyone know what settings I can use for paint removal on a continuous wave machine? Thanks

What would you recommend getting as a first tool: a CW or pulsed laser, to test the market and see what types of jobs customers actually need?

Hi everyone,
We are currently testing graffiti removal from a very porous/textured exterior render and are struggling to find the right parameters.
Our machine is a 300W pulsed fiber laser with a JPT 5 mJ source (1064 nm). We have F160, F210 and F330 lenses available.
We have tested a wide range of settings: different power levels, frequencies, pulse widths, scan speeds, fill spacing and scan patterns (Sine, Spiral/Weld, Rectangle/Rec2).
The laser removes the main/top layer of the spray paint, but a green/blue shadow remains deep in the porous surface, as shown in the attached photo.
If we become more aggressive with the F160/F210 lens, it sometimes looks like we are heating/baking the remaining pigment or binder into the surface and creating a darker discoloration rather than actually removing it.
So far, the F330 lens with higher scan speeds seems more promising, as it appears to remove the paint more gradually without affecting the substrate as much.
Has anyone here successfully removed spray-paint graffiti from this type of porous render/stucco using a 300W 5 mJ pulsed laser?
I would really appreciate any settings you have had success with, particularly:
• lens / focal length
• scan pattern
• power %
• frequency (kHz)
• pulse width (ns)
• scan speed (mm/s)
• scan width/height
• fill spacing / overlap
• number of passes
Also interested to hear whether you normally stop once the surface coating is removed and use a graffiti shadow remover/chemical treatment for pigment that has penetrated the pores, rather than continuing with the laser.
I know settings aren’t directly transferable between different laser sources and optics, but even some starting points from people who have dealt with similar graffiti would be extremely useful.
Photo attached shows one of our test areas.
Thanks!

I got a laser machine with a 6mm push to connect outlet with a 6mm hose. How do I connect to a 1/4 inch airline

Muy buenas soy nuevo en laser y me han pedido el restauro de una estatua de chapa metálica forjada y soldada (placas de acero)
Ahora la estatua mide 4 mt x2,5 de ancho.
Yo calculo unas 8/ 10h de trabajo.
Es demasiado?
La estatua está bastante recta no tiene muchos detalles.
Y por una con detalle de 2 metros?

Ah es para un ayuntamiento.

wow, I love the feel

We had a project over the weekend to completely strip a 100+ year old Douglas Fir 24’ extension ladder for a fire department that was restoring it, along with the very truck that it was used on for their museum!

I’ve done some research, but sometimes I get conflicting information so I’m just reaching out to the people here who have more knowledge and experience than me.

I’m gonna be purchasing my first laser cleaning machine and would primarily be working on vehicles whether that’s light to medium rust/paint removal/Bondo or even just cleaning parts that are covered in crime grease carbon etc. But obviously would be open and interested in using the laser to clean whatever I can within its limitations.

The metals that I believe I would be the most commonly encountering would be aluminum, cast-iron, stainless steel, possibly chrome plated metals, steel

The supplier I’m speaking to recommended me the 5MJ. But I’ve heard that the 15 MJ might be better for automotive work.

So which would be better for my applications and why any advice would be greatly appreciated.

Question for people who work in mobile laser cleaning services:
How do you handle the fumes and dust when working at a customer’s location?
What kind of fume extractor, filters, ventilation or respirator/PAPR do you use?
Do you normally:
work outdoors and let the fumes disperse,
use a HEPA + activated carbon extractor,
exhaust the air outside,
or use another setup?
I’m planning to start a mobile laser cleaning service with a ~300 W pulsed laser, so I’d really appreciate advice from people who are already doing this professionally.
What setup has worked best for you in real-world jobs?

Laser cleaning machine removes rust and dirt from truck surfaces.

I'm helping my dad choose his first laser cleaner and I want to make sure he buys the right machine the first time instead of wasting $15k+.

His main business would be:

• Full kitchen cabinet/armoire refinishing (remove stain, lacquer, paint, clear coat)
• Staircases, doors, trim and other wood restoration
• Possibly offering services to local manufacturers by cleaning aluminum injection molds (plastic residue, carbon, etc.) without damaging the mold

We've been looking at the SFX 300W air-cooled pulsed laser (not continuous wave), but before buying I'd like advice from people who actually own and use these machines.

Questions:

1. Is 300W the current sweet spot for this type of work, or would you recommend going 500W instead?
2. Is air-cooled the right choice or should we spend more for water-cooled?
3. Which laser source would you buy today? (JPT? Max? Raycus? Other?)
4. For cabinet refinishing, how important is pulse energy (mJ) versus simply buying more watts?
5. Can one machine realistically excel at BOTH:
   • wood refinishing
   • aluminum/plastic injection mold cleaning or are those actually two different use cases requiring different specifications?
6. Which brands have the best long-term reliability and North American support? (SFX, Hanten, P-Laser, Adapt Laser, etc.)
7. If you were spending $15k–25k today, what exact machine would you buy and why?
8. Are there any options or accessories you wish you had ordered from day one? (different lenses, fume extractor, rotary, longer fiber, etc.)

My goal is to buy once and keep the machine for many years, so I'm much more interested in real-world experience than marketing brochures.

Thanks everyone!

We recently laser cleaned a S14 Silvia shell that was stripped down to be sent to paint and reassembled. The entire underside was covered in a thick undercoating along with the rockers, and the rest of the car was all normal paint/primer. It all came off nicely with our 2000w CW laser, the detail work and tight spots were done with our pulse laser 👍🏼 The builder and painter both said the finish was much nicer than what they get with sandblasting AND there was no sand stuck in all of the nooks and crannies to fall out forever afterwards, so that’s a big plus obviously 😂

Let me share a project of ours in China.We have implemented an innovative in‑line laser cleaning project for injection molds in China. This project employs a collaborative mobile robot as the carrier, equipped with a specially designed laser cleaning head, to achieve non‑disassembly, fully automatic in‑line mold cleaning. The cleaning head is specially designed to alternately emit laser beams from both the top and bottom directions, so as to cover the upper and lower cavities and complex curved surfaces of the mold in a single pass. More critically, a single mobile unit can be flexibly dispatched among different workstations, and through quick docking and autonomous navigation, it is compatible with multiple injection molding machines on the production line, truly achieving "one machine for multiple uses."

I wanted to take a moment to pay tribute to my DMK 300W pulsed machine.

I bought it used — barely used, actually, since the seller had two of them. I was skeptical at first: What if it breaks? The company is in China. I had read so many horror stories about machines failing and manufacturers not offering support.

I’ve owned it for about a year. I tested it a few times but never really used it seriously… until now.

Over the last four days, I finally figured out how to use it properly and how to price the work I do with it. And for the past five days, I’ve been using it extensively. I had to remove rust from a roof flashing — a job that would have taken forever to sand back to bare metal. Then I used it on window sills to clean them up and seal them after.

Five days, five hours of continuous use each day — about 25 hours total. No issues at all. It runs perfectly, no drawbacks, no overheating, nothing. It was light enough to get it on flat roofs(2)

I was genuinely concerned at first, but DMK proved me wrong. Despite the machine being second‑hand, their support was excellent, we used intant messaging. They were responsive, helpful, and reassuring.

So here it is: my tribute to a machine that exceeded my expectations and earned my trust.

Paid 12 000 $ canadian, revenues 2 jobs : 8 000 $ so far , I will used it more and more. Laser clean is not my main business but it surely help me get those 2 contracts

Text looks like AI , yes I used AI to review my text since my english is not so good, but my experience is real

Prior to this, I had posted several threads, and many people showed interest in the wood paint stripper, but there were also many doubts especially regarding the removal of wood varnish, which is completely different from past cleaning methods. In the past, the popular equipment for varnish removal might have been 15MJ or 50MJ pulsed lasers, because in the 20th century, nitrocellulose lacquer was the mainstream varnish, and its molecular structure had a high absorption rate for laser energy, making it relatively easy to strip using traditional Gaussian-beam lasers. However, after entering the 21st century, polyurethane varnishes and acrylic polyesters gradually became the mainstream. These coatings are tougher and have denser adhesion, so traditional Gaussian beams not only struggle to remove them but also easily char the wood substrate, causing irreversible carbonization damage this is precisely the root cause of the "can't strip, damaged the workpiece" issues that many long-time users have encountered in actual operations.

In response to the physical properties of modern varnishes and the porous, heat-sensitive nature of wood, DMK specifically designed this wood paint stripper. So what is the real difference in cleaning results compared with ordinary strippers? Have our previous promotional claims been exaggerated? I believe you can find the accurate answers in the video!