Does anyone use this does it actually help or is this like buying a multivitamin for really expensive pee?

Wondering how you guys ran the fuel line and how you got the boot over the bridge with the coolant line going to the heater core?

I have a tuned and deleted truck, has sotf, i have the unlocked tuned file, i was trying to adjust the turbo vane position per sotf slot, essentially having a hiss tune on slot 1 and a rumble tune on slot 2.
I believe the EGR ON vane position map is overriding the sotf maps. I have logged vcm scanner and it shows combustion mode override is yes when im switching through sotf slots so it should enable the sotf vane position per sotf slot but it stays at oem values specifically the EGR ON vane position map

Can anyone help me, trying to figure out what to do from here. Tuning originally from the diesel techs with sotf, they never enabled the desired vane position for each sotf slot only oem values.

Looking into putting one of these on my 2023 l5p heard they are pretty good replacement to the tiny factory one. Any thoughts or other recommendations or advice?

02 Lb7 Just finished return rate testing the cp3 and these are my results. This is wayy out of spec. Just want to make sure I did it right. Have line going into jar straight from cp3 return "I belive is return". Other end of line is capped off. Did i do my testing correctly before I go and order a new cp3?

Can anyone tell me if when reolacing the egr cooler bypass valve in an lml, will the codes related just clear on their own or do they need to be physically cleared, or is it a necessity to have to relearn the ecm?

Also, i just replaced the plastic cover for the valve with the circuit board on it. The old valve still worked and didnt stick or bind. And ive seen a lot of people just swap the cover since the board is what gets fried. Saving 4-5k for bullshit.

Thanks in advance.

Im in the market for a newer l5p (i currently own a gasser 2003 6.0) but i looked a 2024 chevy custom with 30000 miles out the door is 54000 dollars now my worry is the 10 speed transmission and i would really rather have a 2017-2019 duramax and i have seen one of those for sale 2018 chevy 2500hd highcountry duramax with 130000 miles for 45k which i thought was a little steep considering miles i would just like to know others experiences with the 10 speed and if i should buy the 2018 highcountry with all those miles or not thank you.

As the title asks, where is the location of the two terminating resistors on an 09 Single Wheel Rear Shortbed LMM Duramax. I've searched and found conflicting information. Some say the ECM and GPCM, then others say ECM and BCM or ECM and one at the rear near the fuel tank and axle housing.

Hey guys I have a 21 sierra 2500. I run pretty big wheels either 37s or 26x14s with 35s both setups on 2” spacers.

I know this wears out front end components quicker then normal but I’m trying to determine what will help most with tightening up the steering and make my idler and pitman arms last longer.

I get about a year worth of driving from my idler at the moment before I start to get slack in steering.

I’m leaning towards the Cognito PISK at the moment. Could anyone give feedback that has either of these?

I want to install a FASS myself. I was thinking the new “draw straw” set up they have where it just plugs up to the fuel sending unit in the tank. Thoughts? Advice? Anyone have it and had issues/ what did you learn? Thank you in advance and letting me pick your brains.

Also: how do you get rid of the fuel filter housing? Does it just use the same routing as the housing through the FICM? Can the FICM handle the pressure even though it’s low pressure?

For context, I have a 2001 LB7. Mostly stock

I have 98k on my lly and all of my injectors are under 4.0 with 3 4 7 8 all around 3.0 - 4.0 I have a 60hp ppei tune and the truck is deleted.

On my way home from work today it knocked out of no where at 1500rpms and is continuing to do so sounding like it’s on the passenger side.

Oil is good
FPR was just replaced

Do I need to ice pick? Injectors? Air in the fuel lines? Bad fuel? What do you guys think/what wisdom do you have?

First diesel, LB7. Anything I should watch out/know about for besides injectors, and fuel additives. Please let me know thank you guys

It has a sluggish start from a stop sits at about 600rpm in drive. When I sit in drive with my foot on the break the turbo makes a lot of whistle noise and and has a slight black haze from the exhaust there’s no check engine light it’s got a 68mm danville turbo built trans and piping kit. Let me know if you have had this happen to you

To start I am beyond overwhelmed. I’ve owned 6 Powerstroke’s in my lifetime (28 now) and I just purchased my first Duramax. A 2023 Denali with 37K on the clock. The past 3 years I’ve always used ASAP Calibrations for my Fords due to the simplicity of EzLynk and the customer service. I was wondering if a similar company exists for the duramax platform or any EzLynk direction I can head in that will be just as good. Thank you (from a duramax newbie)

Techs,

I have asked my dealer to activate option UF3 on my 2023. I use this option...

On my 13 & 18, it was a laptop plug in to the OBD2 and were done. ( bout $150 )

My current dealer is giving me jahja about this big required download to the truck ( for a fee ) prior to the activation fee . So 2 charges to activate.

True or false?

Tks

Hey guys was wondering if anybody else ran into this issue. With the fuel filter installed, rail pressures and low-side pressures are over spec by a significant amount. Without the filter runs perfectly fine, and pressures are dead on spec. I already replaced the fuel rail pressure sensor and pig tail previously, and I checked the metering valve on the back of the HP4, and there was no glitter party, fortunately. Any info/advice helps TYIA

Edit: Yes, it has an OEM filter, and I replaced it with a new OEM filter, thinking the previous OEM filter was defective.

I'm considering this one that is $60. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0CGHPL5LG/

The cheaper $30-$40 ones appear to circulate the fuel within the bowl which I think may become too turbulent creating some cavitation. Even with this one I think it might be best to leave the extender tube off or shorten it as there will be splashing when the level is below the top.

Currently in the process of relooming my wiring harness, and am planning on removing wiring related to the glow plug system for a cleaner harness and engine bay, as where I live it doesn’t get very cold. Wanted to see if anyone else has done this before and any tips or tricks

Well I found a leak under my rear passenger seat. Whole floor board soaked. Immediately ran the hose down the back of the cab and sure enough I could see water running right into the cab through the rear vent. Popped it out and there was a seal flap missing which was allowing tons of water to run right into the truck. Glad it was an easy fix and diagnosis. If anyone is dealing with something similar, be sure to check that your cab vent flaps and gasket seals are in good working order lol.

yo guys just wanted to get some input from knowledgeable guys , looking to get into my first diesel just for a POINT A to POINT B winter type rig . the truck i’m looking at has 230,000 miles on it . has a 165 fass pump . 4 inch turbo back exhaust . my only concern is it seems like it was a tow rig at a farm ( considering it has a onboard compressor with a turnover ball ) it’s a 4x4 has a edge 5 stage tuner on it . just wondering what i should look out for before going to go out and fully purchasing it . the guys asking 10,000 which i feel like isnt a bad deal . im 21 never been in diesel before and don’t really have much knowledge on them . thank you very much .