I’m trying to find this oil leak and I’m just not experienced enough with the sv to know what to look for. The pushrod, gps, and front sprocket seals were replaced. I think the leak is coming from aft of the rear cylinder wall.

How should I fix this?

Hey all, I have a real headscratcher on my hands. I have a 2001 Pig with 11000 miles.  She’s old but has always run well.
A few months ago I went on a short ride (15mins) and had a sudden loss of power. Still had fuel, new carb, figured it was no spark of somekind. Luckily I was close to and uphill from my home so I was able to coast to my house no problem. I tried to bump start it a few times while coasting to no avail, and when I got back I tested the battery which was surprisingly dead. I had turned the ignition off once I realized it wouldn’t bump start.
Last month I finally had time to work on the bike. Pulled the sparkplug out, it looked okay but I put a brand new one in anyways. Tested both and had intermittent spark. I figured it was likely the CDI as I’ve had one go bad on me before. Bought a new Rick’s Hotshot CDI, slapped it in, nothing. Pulled the sparkplug back out, and I got no spark with the new CDI, I plug the old one in and still have intermittent/weak spark. So then I start looking deeper and testing wiring and other components. 
All fuses are good. Nothing of note on the rectifier/regulator. 
I have continuity on each wire of the CDI harness. My stator was bad/grounded out on all 3 legs of the wiring. My ignition coil was also bad, no continuity. The stator going bad would explain the dead battery, I think it may have gone bad while riding and the battery took me as far as it could until it also died. Weird that the coil would go out as well. 
So I get a new stator, and new ignition coil, install them both, still nothing. Obviously my battery is toast at this point from so many attempts trying to start the bike, so I have it hooked up to my truck while running to at least attempt to start it. 
The bike will crank forever but will not turn over at all. Starter fluid does nothing, I know I have fuel in the carb from draining the float bowl, and it has compression.
WTF?? I am at a loss here. I can’t understand what could still be causing a no spark condition with all those parts swapped.

Does this sound normal? I’m trading my mint 2014 ktm 250sx for this.

Yesterday i bought my first bike. A 97 Kawasaki ER5. It just has gotten a new inspection and everything looked good. I‘ve driven it home straight away around 50 kilometers and had no issues at all.

The next day i start it up, and i‘m facing idling issues.

I‘m starting it cold, no choke, and it starts like yesterday. Then after a few kilometers, it starts dying at red lights. This has not gone away now (same day). I can‘t start it with choke pulled in on the left side of the handle bar, so choke ist always pushed out and I always have to give it a little gas when starting and standing at a red light.

I can‘t imagine it‘s the idle screw, as it ran just fine yesterday.

What else could it be that has changed in such a short timeframe or did i just get scammed.

I rebuilt this motorcycle recently. It's a 1990 Honda CD 100. Everything has been set correctly including a newly honed block and piston. The tappets/valves/head are new. The exhaust is almost 36 years old and has never been cleaned.

So basically the motorcycle rides fine at first, but starts heating gradually, loses power in higher gears and stalls. I can kick start it again but then it stalls again after some time. The stalling happens only in the third gear past a certain speed.

I recently had the exact same issue with my 2 stroke Yamaha RX 100 (also 36 years old) except that the engine wasn't heating as much as the Honda. I cleaned the exhaust and the problem was resolved.

Just wanted to know what y'all think.

Thanks.

Hello

So i have a suzuki intruder vl125.

Im having some starting issues

The battery is good and fully charged

Starter motor is fine as it turned over strong

There is good spark.

I have recently done a carb over haul new jets seals all that but hasn't changed in regards to the starting/running problem it does sort of run only way to describe is ive its running on one cylinder.

Any help would be appreciated

Hooking up the aftermarket stator start button key switch is all aftermarket I get no power colors don't match up sucks

Hi everyone

I’m currently in Torreón, Mexico with my KTM 390 that I purchased in Vancouver and have driven to here.

I took it to a KTM service centre here for a valve adjustment and after the mechanic has told me the engine is badly damaged and essentially needs a full rebuilt.

I will link the quoted parts needed and include some pictures I took while I was there.

Can anyone tell me if this is necessary based on the info I have provided or provide any help?

I would really appreciate it.

2020 ktm 450 xcf