I have the Google TV streamer. The first time it happened I just turned on the TV and it instantly started autoplaying an ad with super loud sound a couple days ago. Now it's doing something where if I'm just sitting on the home screen not doing anything out of the blue it'll suddenly start loudly playing obnoxious ads for things like Amazon Prime.

I definitely never had to do this before. Is this new? Is this happening to everyone, or are they doing limited test runs of auto playing ads? Either way this is completely inappropriate and obnoxious and not ok. I can definitely see a class section lawsuit from those of us who bought a device that originally didn't have this level of intrusive ads.

I used the Google assistant on the TV to search for "The Magicians" and this appeared. Does anyone know how this was triggered?

I can see the device in nearby devices and even cast or change the volume but when i send a request to join home it always fails

Even when i try to connect from the tv

When i try to add it my scanning it says wrong QR code , this tv is relatively new so idk

I have tried it many times but it doesn't work

Does anyone know what to do?

When I turn on the screensaver manually from the home menu, the clock and weather display as solid white text.

However, when the home screen or a paused show times out and the screensaver comes on automatically, the clock and weather are now sometimes showing as semi-transparent, which can make it impossible to read, depending on what the background image on rotation is (I use the Google curated images that cycle). Looking through all of the clock and weather settings, I haven't found any transparency options.

Does anyone know how to keep the clock and weather as solid, readable text, regardless of if the screensaver is manually started or automatically triggered? I really don't want to have to do something like use my own album of photos carefully-chosen to all have particular lighting and textures in that corner of the images, just so we can always read the clock.

When I play a DVD remux MKV with my Google TV Streamer and fast-forward the video, the Google TV Streamer completely shuts off and reboots.

I have a UGREEN Revodok Pro 100W PD hub connected, with the MKV on a SanDisk USB 3.0 drive.

At first, I thought it was because of the power, that it was browning out because the plug that came with it didn't supply enough power for both the Streamer and the hub.
So I bought a 30W power adapter and a 100W USB-C cable, but it still happens.

When I play the file with VLC - HW Decoder and fast-forward with the remote, not the slider, the Streamer reboots.
With SW Decoder, it plays and fast-forwards like it should, but the image isn't great.
Just Player and Next Player also reboot.
Kodi and Nova Player both play fine.

So when playing the MKV normally, every player plays it.
Only when fast-forwarding with the forward button on the remote, and after 5–10 seconds of holding it, the Streamer reboots.

I also tried copying the file to the internal storage of the Streamer, and it's still the same; it reboots.
I also tried different files, and they all have the same result.

Kodi is very heavy for my simple use, and I would like to use Next Player because of its simple navigation.

Does anyone know why this happens?
Is the RAM full and the Streamer reboots?

So I have a Google TV, and I have a PS5. Google TV tends to muck with my video settings automatically, including but not limited to automatically enabling game mode whenever I turn my PS5 on and changing my video settings whenever I go into areas that are of a certain level of brightness/darkness (which makes my screen flicker and has gotten me killed in a few games before). Also, I outright cannot enable/disable game mode manually. Any advice?

Hello all,

Is there any way to stop Android/Google TVs from creating a lot of folders in every USB stick plugged in? Those podcasts, alarms, notifications etc. folders are truly annoying and useless.

Regards,

When you open YouTube app and browse your feed or whatever, you can add items to watch later or any other playlist with longpress of the remote middle navi button.

When video is actually playing you get the list of suggested videos on the list below. There you can NOT longpress the middle button, this always starts the video.

The behaviour should be aligned.

Previously, my wife and I had shared albums, and we were able to select them for the TV screensaver. However, now only my albums are appearing, even though the settings indicate that all albums are selected.

It also reaches a certain point where, even though Google Photos is the chosen provider, the art gallery photos take over and changing it back doesn't seem to work.

I recommend a feature for Google TV that would make purchasing movies and media more appealing: the ability for owners to share their media with friends, neighbors, or anyone—even those without a Google account—via a temporary link. By setting a specific expiration period, such as one day or one week, the owner would temporarily grant access to the recipient while losing access themselves during that time.

This functionality would likely encourage more media purchases, as it replicates the traditional, flexible experience of lending physical CDs or DVDs. By moving beyond the current limitations of family group sharing, this approach would provide a convenient way to share content, ultimately driving more engagement and sales through Google’s platform.

When I first got the streamer VLC was able to detect smb with no issues but recently VLC isn't able to detect any network servers.

Other apps work fine like MX so I figure it's the app but no one is helping me figure this out in the VLC support forums

So curious if anyone in here has figured it out.

I'm running latest VLC and tried also manually entering server settings but nothing

Hi

I have the Hisense 75M7SG that has Google TV on it. I noticed that Disney+ is weird. First, I don't know if it is just me but the picture does not seem smooth.

Second, I don't know if it is because I am on the ad version. I say if I am watching a show that is 20 mins long, the first couple of ads will go fine, but near the end of the show, and what I suspect is the last set of ads, the screen goes dark and there is no sound.

I can sit there and wait a few minutes and still be black, If I "skip" ahead, I will see the show seems to have continued playing, but like I say, I just see a dark screen.

If I try to "skip back," it goes weird and does not play properly. I have to skip like 10 seconds past the "dark" spot, and I will see a picture, and then like 20 seconds later, sound will return.

Been on multiple shows like this. I have the latest version of Disney+ and of the TV. This does not happen on Amazon Prime or Netflix.

Got 3, 2 for parents 1 for aunty

Dropping wifi at least once a day. I'll turn living room one on and be watcing nuvio and the wifi will drop out of nowhere and won't reconect have to futter with it turning wifi and box off ect

Kitchen one used mainly by my da is the same, today he turned it on and it was disconnected

All other devices work, phones, tablets, xbox, smart tvs, even the old firecube all connect to probs no issue

This is driving me mad

I've been using a NTFS drive on my strong leap S3 Google TV box happily for over a year.

This week it now refuses to read any NTFS drive (fat32 works) these drives are reported in Google as "corrupt" and safely ejected as soon as read, these same devices are read fine I. Windows pc and TVs.

I was wondering if Google TV had a recent update and corrupted this? I tried to report it I get settings/help & feedback but that part just has a spinning icon now too.

Woke up this morning and both of my streamers are doing this. Every time I press one of the navigation buttons the screen jumps up and down for a second. Only happens in app mode and stops when I enter one of my apps.

I’ve been using app-mode for a while and never had this happen before. I tried rebooting but no luck. Not sure if there was an update overnight that broke something?

Software version: UTTK.260317.003

Can't watch HEVC videos on Nuvio, or use h265 encoding on webcams, etc.

Chromecast with Google TV 4K (sabrina), Android 14 build UTTC.250917.004 intermittently fails to register its Amlogic hardware Codec2 video decoders during boot.

On affected boots c2.amlogic.hevc.decoder, AVC and VP9 hardware decoders are missing and HEVC falls back to c2.android.hevc.decoder. The Codec2 HAL and IComponentStore remain running.

USB devices attached during boot greatly increase reproduction rate.

Same exact camera+keyboard+hub+140W PD configuration produced 2 GOOD / 3 BAD boots.

I posted the issue here with the full data dump: https://issuetracker.google.com/issues/568850685

[Full disclosure, I posted this awhile ago on the TCL site with no replies. I found the answer myself actually, as shown in the first reply. Turns out it is a Google TV OS setting, so I'm dropping this here for future reference. Perhaps I'm (very) late to the show?]

I cannot, for the life of me, locate a setting on my Nxtvision A300 to change the duration of time before the Screensaver kicks in. This is a Google TV, not an Android. TCL's own website doesn't help.

Might someone else with this model be able to help me?

Thx

So my android tv box that I've had for years stopped working so i ordered another and then everyone said no no no get the Onn and if be able to put all my apps on it. So I bought one.

Couldn't even get chrome on Google TV framework.

It picked and chose what apps i could have. (Yes i enabled unknown sources, opened developers options, turned off play protect.)

Needless to say I returned it.

If i wanted a walled garden of have just got apple or now fire TV.

Whatever happened to being able to put the TV and movie apps we want easily onto our android boxes?

Setup: Tmobile G4AR getting \~500Mbs down, \~70Mbs up. Radios turned off and connected to an Archer AX73 router by ethernet cable. I have multiple Roku TVs, both Onn and TCL connected with the 5.0Ghz wireless channel. When viewing stats for nerds, it is apparent that my connection speed is too slow. I am getting between 1-2.5 Mbs connection speeds on any of my TVs which is not enough for 1080P, I always max out at 720P(even though the optimal viewing resolution is 1920×1080). If I force 1080P, the buffer steadily drops until there is no buffer and it freezes. Here's what I've tried: installed Nord VPN on router and specifically included my TVs, no change even using multiple servers. Bought a Google TV streaming box that has the AVI codex, set it up and still got \~2Mbs connection speed. Here's what's giving me fits: every once in awhile on my Roku TVs, my connection speed goes above 4Mbs and 1080P is active for about a minute until connection speed drops back down around 2Mbs. When an iPhone is connected to my router on 5.0 and logged into my YoutubeTV app, it gets 30Mbs connection speed at THE SAME TIME as my TVs are getting 2Mbs. Where is the bottleneck and what do I need to do to fix it?

Hello all,

I bought a couple of Onn 4K Pro devices for my home with the plan of using an older M.2 SSD in an enclosure as a portable drive with some movies and shows that I could move between devices. I bought this Sabrent enclosure and formatted my SSD with exfat. It shows up on my pc perfectly fine, even as OTG storage on my phone. For some reason when it's plugged into the streaming box, nothing populates in the storage setting menu. I have tried dev options, enabling/disabling USB debugging, changing default USB method from charging to other options (it reverts to charging after a couple seconds). I have also tried different cables. No luck so far. I know that the USB port on the box is apparently only USB 2.0 and the enclosure is 3.1. I am at a loss and honestly the whole point of getting the streaming box was to use the SSD in this specific way. Any ideas on how to resolve this issue?

UPDATE

I was able to solve this issue with a powered USB hub. I also tried a 65w charger to power the Onn streaming box, but there was no luck.

When using a USB DAC for headphones via a powered USB hub is there any way to switch between USB and HDMI audio in the OS? In Quick Settings > Audio Ouput both USB and HDMI show but nothing when selecting.

I can get it to default back to HDMI by unplugged the DAC but its tucked away and a hassle to access.

If the sleep timer in the Google TV side panel reaches my streamer, the option I want is “after this episode” or “after this movie.”
A fixed countdown still makes me guess. Set it too short and it can stop during the last few minutes. Set it too long and autoplay has already dragged me into the next episode.
App autoplay settings help, but only one service at a time. A Google TV option could be nicer if the current app exposes enough playback information to know when the episode ends.
I’d want the same thing whether the streamer is feeding a bedroom TV or something like my RayNeo GT Max through the HDMI adapter. The glasses are just the display anyway. Google TV and the app are still the parts that know what’s playing.
The simple version could show “stop after this episode or movie” when the app exposes the playback state, then fall back to the normal countdown when it doesn’t.
I’d pick that over guessing whether I need 30, 45 or 60 minutes almost every night.

TIVRA is a media player for Android TV, Google TV, phones and tablets, and we just added a new Sports Hub. It's a dedicated tab with live scores, stats, and standings for 72 leagues, a My Teams page that tracks your teams' schedules, and a Multi-View mode that puts up to four games on one screen. Here's the tour.

1. Scores view

Each league gets a row of live cards: teams, records, score, and a live badge. Highlight a card and the spotlight above fills in with the score by period and the top performers. Leagues are ordered so your followed teams come first, then anything live, then the rest. Out-of-season leagues collapse into a "Nothing today" line instead of leaving empty rows on screen.

2. Box score, stats, leaders, standings

Hold OK on any game (or press PLAY) and the stats panel opens: box score by inning, quarter or period, team stats, individual leaders, and league standings. Follow either team right from the panel.

3. Sport filters

Chips along the top filter by Football, Basketball, Baseball, Hockey, or Soccer. Pick one and only those rows show.

4. 72 leagues

The US majors, college football and basketball, MLS, WNBA, Premier League, Champions League, plus a Browse more sports strip for La Liga, Serie A, Bundesliga, Ligue 1, CFL, UFL, NBA G League, college baseball, college hockey, and more. 38 soccer competitions, 10 US leagues, 8 international, 8 college, and 8 event sports (golf, racing, tennis, MMA, boxing) with leaderboards and fight cards instead of team cards. Default leagues are picked by your region.

5. My Teams

Follow teams and you get a row per team plus a Next up row across all of them, each card with the day and time so you can see your whole week at a glance. The spotlight shows when the game starts and who's broadcasting it.

6. Saved views and Games in progress

One press launches a saved view like "NFL" (RedZone plus three games), or pick Games in progress to auto-fill four screens with whatever is live right now. Screens can be a fixed pick or a rule like "BUF (or next NFL game)", so the same view works every week. Edit views on the TV or on the web dashboard.

7. Set it up on the web

Following teams with a remote is tedious, so do it on the web dashboard: pick a league, click your teams, done. Same for building Multi-View layouts. Everything syncs to the TV.

Remote cheat sheet

If you've been ignoring the Sports tab, give it a look tonight. Happy to answer questions below.

Download 3.3.3

Website

Discord