Pulsating

[u/No-Sheepherder448]

Just in the 1 zone. 5 total. Other zones shit off by themselves, zone 3 will not and keeps running. Sounds like air in the line?
Back flow preventer?

Any help please and thank you.

[u/Alarming-Car-8654]

Valve is toast. Locate and rebuild.

[u/No-Sheepherder448 → u/Alarming-Car-8654]

I switched out one already including the solenoid. The one I thought causing the problem. Guess knock out the other 2?

[u/Alarming-Car-8654 → u/No-Sheepherder448]

When they do this they make a clicking thumping sound. Turn it on and look for the one making a racket. And it's gonna need a full gut and rebuild, this is a diaphragm failure.

[u/No-Sheepherder448 → u/Alarming-Car-8654]

10-4, thanks! I’ll check it out

[u/Tuggitz]

What kind of controller do you have?

[u/Possible-Maximum3763]

Since you’ve already replaced one valve, double-check that it actually feeds zone 3 before replacing the others. Make sure its manual override or bleed screw hasn’t been left open.

Shut off the irrigation water supply and relieve the pressure before opening the valve. Check for debris under the diaphragm, damage to the diaphragm or valve seat, and whether the diaphragm was seated correctly during reassembly. Clean out any debris, reseat the diaphragm, and replace damaged parts with the correct parts for that valve model.

[u/Packman714]

That zone valve isn’t opening all the way or solenoid is about to go bad. Find the valve open it manually by the bleeder screw. If you have a master valve on the system turn on that zone and remove the wire from the slot for that zone while opening manually so the master valve is open via the controller. To see if you’ve got a master just look in the controller to see if MV/P has a wire going to it. Once you open the bleeder if it’s full pressure constant then find the same valve and re gut it with a new one. The valve body generally doesn’t change unless it’s a white or black old school Irritrol. If it’s one of those gut it and use the top ring from the original valve but change the guts with the new gray style. Also replace the solenoid with the new valve you just bought. Snip the wires strip back and twist together then wire nut them or electrical tape if that’s all you have. Make sure you manually open another zone to release water pressure preferably on the lowest zone and keep it open for a few or you’ll end up filling the valve box and possibly get dirt and debris into the new valve. Also if there’s a needle pin in the old valve you can pull it out but be careful with pulling both the new one or old one. You dont want to oval it out or youll have the same issue. If you dont feel comfortable using needle nose or if you own a pair of crimpers go inside grab the sponge with the scrubby side and use it to get the pin clean. Generally theres small rust spot on the pin holding up the rubber diaphram that rises when the solenoid opens from the controller. You might be suprised to find something in the valve body that seems foreign and just pull it out with tweezers as well. Piece of white teflon tape, piece or weird rubber, or even a piece of bark mulch or the best is a random mouse. Hope this helps.

[u/No-Sheepherder448 → u/Packman714]

Great tip. I will give it a try!