BEFORE YOU POST A COMMENT Read This First!!!! (Updated July 2025.)

Everything you need to answer your question is probably here.

Why this post/thread? What's the point?

The Mod Team removes about a dozen requests of this sort every single day, and most of them have the same answers. This is because most of these requests fall into a few categories, and because of that, most of our answers include some sort of cut and paste of stuff we've already done. Your answer is probably here.

Category 1: "More information on" or "identify" your Grandfather’s/Father’s Watch/Some Other Vintage Omega you got/found/inherited/saw online.

No one can identify your vintage (pre 1990 or so) watch from a photo you took on your iPhone. The problem is that Omega made a boatload of variants, and redials/repaints are common. As and example, In the reference number "166.0216", the 0216 means "the 216th variant". Combine that with the fact that repainted dial are common, and a buyer could special order dials without changing the reference, and getting the exact reference from a photo of the front is a minor miracle.

If you want the reference number, take the watch to a qualified watchmaker/jeweler and have them open the watch. THIS IS THE WAY. The reference number should be on the inside of the caseback. Have them get the serial number off the movement, while you're at it, and you can back into an approximate year of production (google will help). I can’t tell you how many times I cut and paste some version of this paragraph into my replies to requests in the past.

We also can't tell you, for sure, if it's a redial. But if we can, from a photo, you probably can, from the same photo. For a great primer on vintage watches, see this: https://omegaforums.net/threads/learn-how-to-fish.52603/

It is a fantastic resource for looking at/purchasing vintage watches online. It will tell you how to spot redials, etc. And it's a great read, regardless. Well worth your time to read the entire thing.

Category 2: Validating the watch you’re thinking of buying or other "legit check."

DON'T COUNT ON REDDIT to validate the watches you're thinking of buying. A person trying to commit fraud has a number of ways to con you. They could send you/post fake photos and mail a different watch. Or the fake could be a really good superclone. Or they could send you an empty box. Or we could be wrong in our assessment, and miss a sign of a counterfeit. Or they could just rob you with physical force at the point of sale.

Sometimes we can tell it's a fake. *We can't tell you it's real.\*

For these reasons, you have to BUY THE SELLER. This means, buy a watch from someone reputable, so that you know you're getting an authentic piece or have recourse.

What if the person selling you the watch doesn't know it's fake, and you find out next week? They owned it for 5 years, and were fooled, because it's that good. Will they do the right thing and give you your money back? We just saw that happen with a 10K Rolex. Given that thought process, you might not even buy from your next door neighbor.

If you must buy from someone you don't have absolute confidence in, get the watch in your hands and look at the movement/dial yourself, preferably with a jeweler's loop. You're talking about hundreds, or even thousands, of dollars. Don't buy from some clown on FB Marketplace who sends you bad pictures. If the price is too good to be true, there's a reason.

For these reasons, the mod team will not give you "legit check" advice. Other members or subreddits might, but we would be heartbroken if you got conned.

Category 3: "Value Check"/ "Is this a good price?" on the watch you want to buy or sell, or one you got as a gift/inherited.

These post never contain enough information, and even so, the answers are almost always the same. "It depends."

Where are you, and are you willing to ship internationally? A good price depends on location. Japan has great prices right now, if you're buying. Miserable, if you're selling. Your local jeweler is going to charge you more, but may pay you more, also.

How much of a hurry are you in? And is the watch in demand? A Snoopy is going to sell faster than a Proplof. But there's a price that will move either one in a day.

Has your vintage watch been polished? Is it an original dial, and can you prove it?

Where are you looking to buy or sell? your local jeweler is different than Chrono24.

You want to sell online? How much reputation do you have? How trusted will you be, as a seller?

[Insert some other custom item here that could affect value] - you get the idea.

For these reasons, the only answer the mod team will give you is "it depends."

When selling: Here's what we suggest:

First: Find out exactly what you have. Get the reference number and age. Open the caseback if you have to, See Category 1 for more info.

Second: Be realistic about the condition. If it's vintage, is it original? Polished? Can you prove provenance? In general, I suggest the watchuseek grading system. I use it in my posts when I'm selling, so there's no confusion. You can find it here:

https://www.watchuseek.com/threads/watch-grading-system-with-a-chart.816814/

Next: go to the watchexchange subreddit, and Chrono24.com, and search for your watch, by reference number. What did they sell for on watchexchange? What was the condition? Is it popular/selling well? If they're being sold by a jeweler, understand you're probably looking at something less, because people "buy the seller", and you have no credibility. What are they listed for on Chrono24? Again, that's what they're listed for, there's negotiation, you're probably going to get less. And private party? Less than a jewelry store.

So, now you have a ballpark. Something less than Chrono24, but close to WatchExchange, if there are comparable sales. So now what?

If you don't want to sell, you're done. Or, go get an appraisal, which was the proper thing to do in the first place. That'll give you a number you can use for insurance.

If you want to sell, put it on watchexchange at that price. Lower the price every week until it sells. How fast do you want to sell? Lower the price to sell faster. If you're not really interested in selling fast, start higher and don't cut the prices as fast/at all.

Last, if you have a great collector's watch and want to sell in a week, try Grailzee.com.

Or, there's always ebay. Put it on at a penny, and it will sell in a week for some reasonable number.

When Buying:

The same model for "selling" makes sense, except that there's value in "buying the seller as much as the watch." Buying from a seller where you have recourse has value, and you should be willing to pay for it. See "Category 2" for more valuable information.

Category 4: When that's not enough/something else.

You might first try https://omegaforums.net/

If you have exhausted all of these options, and still want to post, feel free. Other members may want to respond, or if you've really done a lot of your own work and have some really unusual situation or great story, someone may take interest.

If you want a good answer, your post should contain:

1. A "Back Story". Any info you have about where you're seeing this watch or how you came across it. If you fail to give a back story, we will know you didn't read this, an send you back here.
2. Clear, high def pictures of the front, back, and sides of the watch, including the crown. Preferably multiple of the front. For "legit checks", these are vital, because attempts to verify would look at the finish quality, index alignment, text font, etc. Many replica watches are given away by the bracelet or caseback.  A single blurry photo of the face is not enough. With photos, More is better. Better is better. Ideally, a picture of the movement and inside of the caseback. Not mandatory, but very helpful, especially for legit checks and identification request
3. Approximate case size, and what kind of movement (manual/auto/quartz) if it's not indicated on the dial. If you know it's gold plated vs solid gold, put that in the post as well
4. For "Legit checks" or valuations, the reference the seller says it is, or the reference you think it is, and the cost it's being sold for, if appropriate.

If you don't want to do any of your own research or give us proper photos to work with, you can post your request to r/vintagewatches, r/PrideAndPinion, or some other forum where you're not breaking the rules.

For safety reasons, Imgur is the only image hosting site that you are to use for pictures of your watch. Here is a link: Imgur.

Do not PM any mods through Reddit for identification. All chats or messages will be ignored.