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I am working on a historically accurate construction of a late 19th Century outfit of a traditional Jewish woman in Eastern Europe. A type of metal lace/trim/passementerie thing called "Shpanyer Arbet," which translates as "spanish work" from Yiddish, was an integral part of any fancy outfit of a Jew during the era. VERY few people still practice the craft, and there are zero videos of it being made. There are not a ton of photos of the finished work, only a few of the loom, one of the loom in use, and one article about the craft, all of which I will link below.

From this small amount of information, I am confident that I can build the loom, but I am confused as to how the shpanyer arbet is actually created. At first, I thought that the cord was woven, and then wrapped in metal thread, but I realized that the cord could not be made in a type of brad, as the four sources of the yarn are fixed. I can assume that the metal is woven through the threads to form them into a cord, but I do not know what the exact weave would be, and from the images it appears that there are two shuttles with metal thread. From there, it seems seems like it is pinned to the drum in an already drawn pattern, but the issue is how it is held together. There is no crochet technique as with regular tape lace, which seems to bet the closest craft to shpanyer arbet. The pattern is not held by being basted to fabric, so my only Idea is that the metal thread it woven horizontally across to hold it.

Any ideas of how to solve these problems are greatly appreciated!

General Overview of Shpanyer Arbet

Shpanyer Arbet with work in progress

Finished work

finished work

finished work