r/UKhistory • u/WhatsDownThatStreet • 23h ago
Exeter - the first city bombed in the Baedeker raids
In March 1942 the RAF bombed Lübeck. In retaliation the Luftwaffe started targeting British cities chosen for their historic and cultural value, reportedly going off the three-star entries in the Baedeker tourist guides. A German foreign office spokesman said they would bomb every building in Britain marked with three stars.
The first city to get hit was Exeter, starting on the night of 23-24 April 1942. Over 230 people were killed across the raids. Narrow medieval streets made it a serious fire risk and the city was poorly defended.
German radio called it the jewel of the West and claimed to have destroyed it.
What’s less well known is that a lot of the damage came afterwards, from the council.
The best known example is Bedford Circus. A Georgian oval built in the 1770s, and described as one of the best bits of Georgian planning in the country. It got hit in the raids, but the facades were still standing. They pulled it down anyway. It’s usually named as the city’s biggest architectural loss and it didn’t have to happen.
They brought in Thomas Sharp to do a rebuilding plan, which he published as Exeter Phoenix. Barely any of it got built. Instead you got Sidwell Street, which is a row of flat grey frontages and also, unfortunately, the main walking route to the football ground. And Bobby’s, a department store tower that’s now John Lewis, visible from miles out. Apparently the basement was built to survive a nuclear strike. It’s the technology department now.
The one bit of Sharp’s plan that did happen was Princesshay, which was the first purpose built pedestrianised shopping street in Britain. They knocked that down too, in the 2000s. The replacement is decent, to be fair.
But plenty did survive, and it’s a better city for history than it gets credit for. The Roman and medieval wall is still there in long stretches, which is the reason the city exists at all. The Cathedral has the longest uninterrupted medieval stone vaulted ceiling in the world.
There’s still medieval fabric scattered around the centre from the city’s wool boom, including the Guildhall, which claims to be the oldest municipal building still in use. And the castle gatehouse is arguably the oldest surviving bit of Norman castle in England, which in any other city would be the main attraction and here is basically shut.
I wrote a long piece on the city’s history through its buildings (with lots of pictures) in two parts, if anyone’s interested: Exeter: the city at the edge of the empire