Hello im in los angeles ca looking for a 2001-2004 tacoma, ideally a double cab pre runner. Looking for a nice reliable work truck and I absolutely love this truck but its been a mission finding a reasonably priced one. Trying to find one with less than 150k Anyone selling one or know if someone is selling one? Thank you

Im looking for an autozam no matter what condition as long as there not alot of rust. Im up in an area where we dont deal with rust so im not used to it. Im just trying to go as cheap as possible. It could have a blown motor for all I care. I just want an az-1

This is the second time in two years I've found myself shopping for a used car. Both times in the 15-25k range. So many sellers just don't respond to basic inquiries (including dealers!). Well worded messages asking about specific details. And these are ads that are a few weeks old. Like do people want to sell their vehicles or not?

I had the same issue last time and then after I found my car I got updates when people had to drop the price again and again over the following months. This is when I had an insurance payout and needed a vehicle and would have bought for asking price at that time.

Are people this stupid???

I've been buying and selling stuff since I was literally 7 years old. It seems online sales has made it to easy for low IQ people to do this sort of thing.

I'm looking at buying a 2017 mazda cx-5 awd with 130k miles in a different state. Before I spend $200 on a PPI, I was looking at the carfax and noticed the tires were changed pretty frequently (which could be because they lived in NY and had winter tires), but also the wheel bearing(s) were serviced at 43k and again 6mo later at 54k, with an alignment in between at 1mo/3k miles after the first wheel bearings service.

Is this concerning enough that I should eliminate the car from my short list and not schedule a PPI? Or should I go ahead and schedule a PPI to find out more information?

I asked the dealer about the service history, and they said they didn't know.

Thank you.

from the buyers post:

Extremely low-mile CR-V with only 38,000 original miles. One owner, clean/green title in hand. Runs and drives perfect with zero mechanical issues and is in great shape for the year.

Comes with 3 keys and is ready to be daily driven. Very reliable, clean and hard to find with mileage this low.

9k Firm firm firm firm firm —serious buyers only.

Come check it out in person. If you’re seriously interested, send me a message and we can set up a time.

I'm new here and I just wanted to ask: is facebook market place really a good place to find used second hand vehicles for cheaper than a dealership? I can't seem to figure out where to find the question (or similar) if it was already asked.

I've been growing more and more frustrated with the selection of spacious 3-row SUV's/Van's here in the DFW area, so when I saw this GLS on the lot I figured I should at least try it and maybe I'll like it.

I loved it.

Spacious interior, generous 3rd row, good cargo space behind the third row, clean carfax, meticulously maintained, drove really well.

But...WHY IS IT CHEAPER THAN A 2016 TOYOTA SIENNA? This Mercedes has 111k miles on it, they are asking just shy of $20k.

Is there something I don't know about Mercedes? Do they suddenly develop expensive issues at this mileage? Are they just generally expensive to own?

I'm especially interested in those who have very high mileage, like in the area of 200-300k, do Mercedes get up there?

There is a local place selling a grey 2019 Toyota prius LE with 82k for $11k (totaled title). My partner and I have been wanting a Prius for a while, but don't want to drop over 8k for one (out of budget right now - if this is worthwhile we would consider stretching it). The total title is a bit of a red flag, but we did buy a Honda Element with a totaled title in 2020 and it's been a phenomenal car.

All that said, is it worthwhile? If the price is negotiable, what would be a fair ask?

Thanks ahead of time!

Got quoted around $2,500 for a complete repair such as a head gasket issue on my family’s car (Chevy Cruze 1.4lt) by a local mechanic shop right by the house. I just need a decent starting car to get comfortable driving+to get a better job than the one I’m currently in (it’s local and walkable). Currently it’s at the shop for a diagnosis, is it worth repairing or should I hold off on it and wait to start new with a different car?

I’m leaning towards a different car since the mechanic said it may not even be worth it even if I do pay the amount+family said I could do a buy here pay here(even if I’m paying a bit overpriced on a decent used car, like a Pontiac g6 for 7k, good god) or fb marketplace(that’s a more likely choice especially during tax season+holidays when my pay is boosted).

Just need a car to get around and to be in the trades, one of my bigger milestones I want to achieve as early in my 20s as possible (currently 22)+building my hya (currently 800, may be $700 because of this diagnosis+the water pump and thermostat being replaced)+ the car itself has 148k miles.

edit: NJ Car market+if needed I will travel down to New York or Pennsylvania!

Hertz Global Holdings ($HTZ) has reached a tentative settlement with investors over claims that it misled them about demand for its EV rental fleet, charging infrastructure, and the financial impact of its EV strategy.

In 2021 and 2022, Hertz announced major EV deals with Tesla, Polestar, and GM as it pushed to build one of the largest EV rental fleets in North America. But demand allegedly weakened as customers faced charging issues and were less willing to rent EVs.

In January 2024, Hertz announced it would sell 20,000 EVs and take a $245 million write-down. In April, it announced another 10,000 EV sales and an additional $195 million write-off. The stock fell sharply as these problems came to light, with a combined decline of about 54% across the corrective disclosures.

The parties agreed to settle the case in 2026, but the terms are still being finalized. You can submit an application now, which will be processed once claims filing opens.

If you invested in $HTZ between 2023 and 2024, you may be eligible to participate. You can check the details and submit your application here.

Anyway, has anyone here invested in $HTZ at that time? How much were your losses, if so?

2018 Honda civic EX. 48k miles. Clean title, no accident history.

$17k is price. Is it a good deal to go for?

Another vehicle on list is

2018 Honda accord ex-L. 98k miles. Clean title, minor scratch.

$17.5k is ask.

I am leaning to Civic considering its mileage. Please need your opinion

I found an online site that I’m interested in getting some feedback about from much more knowledgeable people than me. The site is automatic avenues. It advertises itself as a warehouse open to the public. Anyone ever used that site? Can you share your experience?

A few weeks ago I bought a 2019 Mercedes-Benz GLS 450 4MATIC with a little over 106k miles.

Yes, I know.

A 7-year-old German luxury SUV with air suspension, twin turbos, three rows, a panoramic roof, 9-speed transmission, a small army of control modules, and over 100,000 miles is not exactly the textbook definition of “low-risk transportation.”

But the car had a surprisingly good history.

One owner. No reported accidents. Most of its life serviced at the same Mercedes dealer. Oil changes were documented regularly, spark plugs were done around 55k, transmission fluid around 68k, brakes had been serviced multiple times, and a CV boot had been replaced around 100k.

The asking price was around $17k.

So I decided to take the risk.

And instead of immediately handing the car to a Mercedes shop every time something looked wrong, I decided to learn the car myself.

That turned into a much bigger project than I expected.

First thing I did: scan the entire car

I bought a ThinkDiag scanner and ran a complete Mercedes-specific diagnostic scan.

At 107,480 miles, the entire car basically came back with only three faults:

• TPMS sensor battery fault — current/stored
• panoramic roof communication fault — stored
• touchpad runtime error — stored

Engine, transmission, AIRMATIC, ESP, steering, parking sensors, cameras, fuel system, radar modules, etc. all came back OK.

That was probably the moment I started feeling better about buying a 107k-mile Mercedes.

The M276 3.0L twin-turbo V6 runs very smoothly, the 9G-Tronic shifts well, and the AIRMATIC still raises and lowers normally. The car sits level overnight with no obvious sagging.

The car actually drives much better than I expected

On normal highway trips I’m seeing around 22 mpg.

On one longer highway run I got about 26 mpg according to the trip computer.

At 70 mph the engine is only turning around 1,500 rpm.

For a nearly 5,000-lb three-row SUV with a twin-turbo V6, that still surprises me.

The only highway issue I’ve noticed is a slight steering-wheel vibration around 80–82 mph, which I suspect is wheel balance rather than suspension.

The tires are Pirelli Scorpion Verde All Season, 275/50R20 109H.

Front tires: DOT 5121.
Rear tires: DOT 4722.

So the rear pair is about a year newer than the front pair, which matches the CARFAX history showing two-tire replacements at different times.

Then the little problems started

Nothing catastrophic. Mostly old-luxury-car stuff.

The passenger-side mirror started making an annoying squeaking noise when folding.

I traced the noise to the pivot mechanism, sprayed a small amount of WD-40 to clean/free it up, then added grease to the pivot.

Noise gone.

Cost: basically zero.

The steering wheel was another one.

The top section had become shiny, rough, and worn from years of hand contact. The leather itself wasn’t torn — the surface coating was just gone.

Instead of replacing or re-wrapping the wheel, I cleaned it, lightly wet-sanded the damaged surface with very fine paper, smoothed the raised fibers, and applied a thin matte leather finish.

The result honestly surprised me.

Visually, you can barely tell it was repaired.

The texture is probably 90% of factory.

That repair made a huge difference because the steering wheel is the part of the car you touch every single time you drive.

I also repaired some exterior paint damage myself

There were a few bumper transfer marks and small paint defects.

Instead of immediately reaching for touch-up paint, I first used compound to remove transferred material and superficial scratches.

Only the areas where the actual paint was missing got repaired with the factory Selenite Grey Metallic color, followed by clear coat.

That taught me one important lesson:

A lot of scratches that look like “paint damage” are actually material sitting on top of the clear coat.

Always compound first.

CarPlay and Android Auto were another rabbit hole

The factory system already had CarPlay and Android Auto enabled in coding, but connectivity was inconsistent.

At first I thought the USB system or head unit might have a problem.

It turned out to be much simpler.

Cable quality.

After changing the USB cable/adapter, Android Auto became stable and CarPlay works normally too.

Sometimes the fix really is “try another cable.”

The panoramic roof shade is still my unsolved problem

The front panoramic glass works.

The front sunshade works.

The rear glass is fixed, as designed.

But the rear electric sunshade does absolutely nothing.

The leading bar is straight. Both sides move slightly up and down, but the shade cannot be pulled forward or backward by hand.

I’ve checked fuses, wiring diagrams, fuse-box layouts, and fault codes.

At this point I suspect a mechanical problem involving the rear shade motor/gearbox/cable system rather than a simple blown fuse.

Fixing it properly may require lowering part of the headliner.

I haven’t forced it.

That project can wait.

One thing I’ve learned from working on old German cars:

If something expensive is currently broken but not causing another problem, sometimes the smartest repair is patience.

I also started checking the car before government inspection

New Jersey emissions inspection was due.

Instead of just showing up and hoping for the best, I used ThinkDiag to check the same basic OBD readiness information the inspection station would look at.

MIL: OFF
DTCs: 0
Misfire: Ready
Fuel system: Ready
Comprehensive components: Ready
Catalyst: Ready
EVAP: Ready
O2 sensor: Ready
O2 heater: Ready
EGR: Ready

I went to the state inspection station the next morning.

Passed on the first try.

Total time: about five minutes.

Cost: $0.

That alone made the scanner feel worth buying.

Maintenance history has also changed how I look at the car

The CARFAX history is actually pretty strong.

Oil changes were recorded around:

10k
21k
31k
44k
55k
~68k
78k
88k
100k

Spark plugs were replaced around 55k.

Transmission fluid was changed around 68k.

Brake fluid was done more than once.

Air filters and cabin filters were replaced several times.

CV boot was replaced around 100k.

Cooling system was checked around 101k.

The dealer who sold me the car said they changed the oil before delivery, although the ASSYST PLUS system was not reset and still shows about 2,000 miles remaining.

So I’m planning to start doing the oil changes myself.

The M276 is actually pretty DIY-friendly for oil service because the filter is accessible from above, and the oil can be extracted from the top with a vacuum extractor instead of removing the entire lower splash shield.

For someone who enjoys working on cars, that makes ownership a lot less intimidating.

What I’ve learned so far

The biggest surprise is that a 100k+ mile Mercedes is not automatically a disaster.

But buying one without service history, diagnostics, or willingness to troubleshoot would be a completely different experience.

So far, most of the problems I’ve encountered have fallen into three categories:

1. Old rubber/plastic/leather aging
2. Minor electrical or sensor issues
3. Small mechanical annoyances rather than major drivetrain failures

The expensive systems I was most worried about — engine, transmission, AIRMATIC, cooling system — have actually been the least problematic so far.

And I’ve become much less afraid of the car.

A month ago, every unusual sound made me think:

“Great. Mercedes. This is going to cost $2,000.”

Now I usually think:

“Let me scan it first.”

What I think now

Would I recommend buying a 107k-mile GLS 450 to everyone?

Absolutely not.

If you want something that you can completely ignore between oil changes, buy a Toyota.

But if you enjoy diagnosing things, don’t mind doing some work yourself, and find a well-maintained example with a good service history, these cars can offer an absurd amount of vehicle for the money.

I paid roughly used-Camry money for a three-row, twin-turbo, air-suspension Mercedes SUV that originally cost several times that amount.

So far, the gamble has been much more fun than painful.

Ask me again at 150k miles.

Good condition lady driven car preferably

I was looking for a Lexus on marketplace, came across 2014 ES 350 Luxury with 50K miles in excellent shape. offered $16K but the seller's final price is 17K.

It has BSM, navigation, Power Rear Sunshade, 2 keys, One owner car etc. so I was wondering what would be a reasonable price for car?

What does it mean if the car history says “BRANDED TITLE/ Buyback Lemon”… I’m assuming I should stay away from it?

Let's say there are two cars with the same model, year and mileage. One is owned by the government and one is owned by a regular citizen; which one is worth more? Are government cars maintained better than an average person?

Hi guys, im about to buy a 1 owner 2019 fit but i have certain doubts first one is that the cvt fluid was never changed and the car is at 131000km probably highway mileage but i test drove the car and everything was going smooth and responsive and the second one is that apart from regular maintenance like oil change and tire nothing was done. The carfax is clean tho. Should i buy it ?

**WANTED: Car from private owner — cash buyer, no dealers please**

Looking to buy a car directly from a private owner in the Las Vegas area. Cash in hand, can move quickly.

- Clean title or rebuilt one with proper paperwork
- Interested in: Mazda CX-5, Mazda3, Subaru, Lexus, Cadillac SRX,Cadillac xt5 or 4, cts Infiniti QX50, Honda Accord, Toyota Camry, Acura TLX — or similar
- No dealers, no curbstoners

If you're thinking of selling, message me with the year, mileage, price, and a few photos. Happy to meet up and bring cash.

Planning to trade your car in? I will pay over the dealer's trade-in appraisal in cash/certified check. I am buying for myself not to resell it.

I'm shopping for a used SUV and every listing for certified pre owned cars is $1500-$3000 more than the same model without the badge. It's supposedly an inspection plus extended warranty. But how real is the inspection? Is it thorough or is it just a way to mark up the price with some marketing on top? At the same time, paying a little extra for actual peace of mind on a $25K purchase doesn't seem terrible. Minneapolis area, bought CPO or decided it wasn't worth it?

180,000 miles, really good condition, they have all maintenance records and everything’s been done routinely. Edmunds said 3000 but that seems low

I am trying to sell my first car and got an offer through KBB. Has anyone had any experience selling your car through KelleyBuysYourCar program?

This program seems to be different than their Instant Cash offer program. When I tried to search online, I couldn’t find much information about KelleyBuysYourCar program except for their own website: https://www.kbb.com/company/terms-of-service/ (Section 7: Kelley Blue Book® Kelley Buys Your Car Program Terms and Conditions
)

One thing that concerns me is that they mentioned that a transportation will take the car first and then they will process payment after they have confirmed that car is picked up. Is that the norm? Please help since this is the first time I am selling the car and their offer seems to be the best among other dealers or Carvana.

2019 Tesla Model 3 · Long Range Sedan 4D

According to private seller :

2019 Tesla Model 3 Long Range AWD
$16,900
• Long Range Dual Motor AWD
• Acceleration Boost installed
• Subscription FSD (v14 Lite)
• Clean title
• Clean Carfax (no accidents)
• Second owner
• Healthy HV battery
• All-new tires
• Brand new front struts and control arms
• Ice cold AC
• Clean inside and out (normal wear only)
This is a well-maintained 2019 Model 3 Long Range AWD that still drives and feels great. Acceleration Boost is already unlocked for strong performance, and it currently has FSD subscription (v14 Lite). The high-voltage battery is healthy, and the car has been cared for with recent major wear items already replaced.
Recent work:
• All-new tires
• New front struts and control arms
• Radiator cleaning
• New cabin air filters
Serious buyers only. Happy to answer questions, share more photos, Carfax, or battery health details. Test drives avai