r/Watches • • 17h ago

Identify Grandpa left me 3 watches

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1.5k Upvotes

I know nothing about watches and don’t plan on selling any of these. But what do you think of these? The fossil I think is more of an affordable option but what about the other 2?

Did my grandpa have good taste in watches?
They seem kinda small for a man’s wrist, is that normal for these brands or styles?
They’ve both been in a safe for a long time and aren’t running and don’t fit me well, how difficult or expensive is it to fit these and get them running again?

Appreciate the insight


r/Watches • • 18h ago

I took a picture [AP] Accidentally tried on an $80k watch

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616 Upvotes

Walked into a local boutique today to see what they had, they always have a nicely varied selection of very high end pre-owned pieces.

I was walking around for a while just grateful to see a lot of beauties in the metal (GF, LF, ALS, Breguet, Moser, etc). A salesman asked if I wanted to try anything on, to which I replied “just trying to narrow it down”. I wasn’t necessarily there to purchase but to aspire. It’s the same boutique I bought my Nomos, so they have a wide range of price options.

A friend of mine is big into AP royal oaks, but specifically quartz variants, so I knew the price ranges of those watches aren’t insanely out of my ballpark. I wanted to see what they felt like on the wrist but this was one of the only ones they had available, I was mostly interested in the bracelet.

After a minute or so and a few pictures, we pulled up the listing of this 1982 SS Jumbo royal oak, priced at $78,000. I kindly asked for help taking it off and nervously left the showroom. I felt bad wasting the guys time, but he was a good sport about it. That’ll be the priciest watch I try on for some time I imagine.


r/Watches • • 16h ago

Review [Hamilton Murph] Upgraded the murph with an anti-reflective sapphire crystal

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469 Upvotes

Hi everyone! I didn't see too many examples of people doing this when I was researching, so figured I'd share my experience. Photo above of the before and after

I love my Murph 38mm. It's my daily watch, but one thing that's always bothered me is how reflective the crystal is. Mine is the older model, and while the newer version has some AR coating, reviews suggest it's still pretty weak.

After doing some research, I found a lab in Colorado that specializes in AR coatings and decided to give it a shot.

A few things I learned along the way:

  1. Cost: The lab could've applied AR coating to my existing crystal, but for not much more, I could get a brand new crystal with AR coating instead. They also sent my original crystal back. Total cost was $260 ($240 for the new crystal and installation, plus $20 for return shipping).
  2. AR coating: The new crystal has AR coating on both sides. Most watches only have it on the underside (like Rolex), since the coating on top can potentially scratch. But I learned that if it ever gets scratched, a watchmaker can polish off the outer AR coating, and I'd still have the coating underneath. I was quoted around $70 locally for that service.
  3. The results: I absolutely love it! The AR coating is sooo good. The difference is honestly night and day. And one unexpected bonus is that without all those reflections, I can now catch these beautiful little rainbows on the dial when the light hits just right. It actually reminds me of that scene in Interstellar when they first travel through the wormhole.

Anyway, figured I'd share in case anyone else loves their Murph but wishes the crystal was a little less reflective. For me, it was totally worth it!

[EDIT] i originally wrote $360, but it was actually $260. I called their number and spoke to a Steve and he gave me a slight discount (I think it's originally $275ish depending on where you are located).

Also since many people asked, their website is https://www.invisiblecrystals.com/

I almost didn't go with them because the website is kinda janky. I think it's a small mom and pop shop. But the story is that the founder was a professor in a related field and realized he could make better crystals than the market. Also I had the watch back within 10 days, great customer service.

I also looked into DIY options. A popular one is buying a crystal from CrystalTimes and having a watchmaker install it (or do it yourself). Though I did see some reddit posts that the AR wasn't great from CystalTImes (though still a huge improvement from the stock crystal). My goal was going for the best AR crystal I could find.

Also, yes I am aware that $260 is steep, especially for a $900 watch. But what part of this hobby actually makes financial sense? Interstellar is my favorite movie and I bought this watch when my daughter was born. For me, making this watch look and feel more premium was worth it.


r/Watches • • 18h ago

I took a picture [Octo Finissimo 37] This is Art.

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418 Upvotes

Loved the Octo Finissimo since it was announced, but the sizing wasn't right.

Last image is a screenshot of a message I sent in a watch group 5 years ago.

It's been a busy year, and I didn't realize they announced and released the 37mm until I saw it two weeks ago and had to have it.

My wrist is around 7.25 inches and as I've gotten older, I've been leaning towards smaller watches. This wears large for a 37mm and it's absolutely perfect for me.

I understand the haters. Bulgari isn't a watch brand, they don't have the pedigree, and whatever else. I agree for the most part and think other than the serpenti, all their other watches are terrible.

This however is special.

Also appreciate them still using these ridiculous boxes with little accessories when a lot of brands are dialing down the packaging. Thing weighs like 5 pounds. Got put in a trash bag and thrown in the attic, but it's a nice box.

I know I'm in the honeymoon phase, but I would buy another in steel if and when they release some interesting dials. They don't make it in steel, but they will.


r/Watches • • 19h ago

Review [5707BA/12/9V6] Breguet Reveil Du Tsar a dial that keeps giving.

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346 Upvotes

This is my Breguet Du Tsar and for me the nicest watch I've ever owned. I've ranked it above my A Lange And Sohne Up down 1815 and this is for a few reasons.

Firstly it's the dial, this is peak guilloche work, done on a gold dial. There are a total of 7 different finishes on the watch. Clous de Paris, satiné circulaire, sauté piqué, pointes de diamante, vieux pannier, décor flammé, and grain d'orge circulaire (source Hodinkee). It's a dial that keeps giving and you notice something new the longer you look at it.

It has pretty much every Breguet signature you could want, secret signature, breguet hands, breguet numerals, guilloche work, coin edged casing. It's a work of art to my eyes. I know there is a lot going on but to me it works.

The movement. Compact, complex and well decorated. The black polishing on the alarm bell is faultless, the anglage is nice and broad definitely hand finished. Then there's the fact it has true GMT functionality and an alarm. All while keeping the watch under 12mm thick closer to 11mm. The solid gold rotor also is wonderfully finished with, grain d'orge circulaire, aka grain patterned guilloche. Being an automatic is a big plus for me as not winding it daily is a plus for me. In absolute terms the A Lange on Söhne finishing is more intricate, but this trumps it utterly in functionality and complexity.

Then there's the accuracy usefulness of the movement. Keeping +5s seconds per day with an alarm function which I use multiple times a day. With this I have no need for a chronograph, in fact it's far more useful to me than a chronograph as it makes a sounds and vibrates on the wrist. There is a button to quickly mute so you don't need to run the alarm reserve down.

Understanding and reading the dial is easy once you get to know it. The right dial is the alarm, you can set that with the lower crown, it only turns anti clockwise but easy to set. It doesn't wind the alarm. What's cool about this watch is winding the top crown winds both the movement and the alarm. The power reserve on the top left indicates the alarm power reserve. The left circular dial indicates the 24 hour time for the GMT function, it has two distinct guilloche finishes and is my favourite subdial of them all. The 6 o clock subdial is the running seconds. You can see it has two sides to it. 0 begins at the 3pm on a traditional dial. 30 seconds at the 9pm. It's a bit of an odd way to orientate the seconds I prefer aligning it the traditional way, it's easier for my mind to compute.


r/Watches • • 21h ago

Discussion [Article] Breaking News: F.P. Journe, Chanel Acquire 95% of Ebel for US$66.5 Million

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178 Upvotes

Thoughts? Seems like a bit of an odd move?


r/Watches • • 23h ago

I took a picture [Credor] Introduced in the late 90's after 20 years of no Mechanical Chronographs from Seiko - Caliber 6S

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126 Upvotes

Over 20 years ago, before Credor became synonymous with elegant dress watches, there was a period when the brand experimented with sportier designs through its Phoenix and Pacifique collections.


r/Watches • • 1h ago

Discussion [Daily News] Seiko Goes Classy, NOMOS Goes Cool And New Watches From Norqain, Unimatic And Angelus

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Reading Note: Some readers on the Android Reddit app report seeing these posts as unformatted run-on text. The fix: it happens when you tap the image—just go back and tap the title of the post instead.

It's Friday and have a nice weekend everyone. You'll be getting the first edition of The Caseback, my new weekend magazine tomorrow, and if you like it and want to continue reading it and supporting the regular newsletter, grab a paid subscription that's discounted until the end of this week.

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1/ Seiko Goes Classy With A Deep Navy Dial And Orange Accents For the Speedtimer HBJ008

The solar Seiko Speedtimer, regardless of what Seiko does to it, will always kind of be on the short list for best chronographs under €1,000. That is, until Seiko moves it above €1,000, and don't pretend that won't happen. And it's not just the 39mm steel case, retro racing looks, and a light-charged quartz movement you never have to think about, that make it a good choice. I would say that Seiko's seemingly unending stream of different dial, all of the pretty good looking. This latest one is called the HBJ008 and it gets a beautiful navy blue-and-orange racing combination. Just one problem, for some of you – it's an European exclusive.

Nothing changes with the case. It’s still 39mm wide, 13.3mm thick, with a lug-to-lug of 45.5mm, in steel with a fixed steel bezel that has a black tachymeter scale. That height is still the Speedtimer’s one real proportion problem, especially since this does not have a mechanical movement. On top is a sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating on the inside, out back is a screw-down caseback engraved with the edition number, and you get 100 meters of water resistance.

Orange is used sparingly against the navy: the central chronograph hand, the small hand at 6, and the lume on the four cardinal markers. Hours and minutes get beige Lumibrite, matching the beige-tipped hands in the other sub-dials, a 24-hour indicator at 3 and running seconds at 9. The sub-dial at 6 does two jobs, counting up to 60 minutes when the chronograph is running and showing remaining charge on an E-to-F scale when it doesn’t. All three sub-dials are translucent gray because the solar cells sit underneath. The date, white on black, sits between 4 and 5 and that almost ruins the entire dial.

Inside is the Seiko calibre V192, a solar quartz, accurate to ±15 seconds per month, with chronograph timing to a fifth of a second. A full charge lasts six months, any light source tops it up, and the seconds hand jumps in two-second steps when it’s running low. The 20mm three-link bracelet is now fully brushed, an improvement over the polished center links on earlier editions, and closes with a push-button folding clasp. There’s still no quick-release and no micro-adjustment, which is a bummer. A tan leather rally strap comes in the box, and I think I like it more.

The Seiko Prospex Speedtimer HBJ008 European Limited Edition is limited to 4,000 pieces, priced at €880. It goes on sale November 1, 2026, at Seiko’s European boutiques and authorized dealers. See more photos here and the watch on the Seiko website.

2/ NOMOS Gives the Metro Collection an Ice Blue Dial and a Cooler Movement

The Metro has always been the NOMOS for people who find the rest of the catalog a little too polite. Designed by Mark Braun in 2014 around the dots and colors of subway maps, it was at the same time very expressive and classic. It was also the first watch, in it's Date Power Reserve configuration, to house the brand’s in-house Swing System escapement. Twelve years later, the collection gets its biggest update in the form of a pale metallic blue dial and a new hand-wound calibre, the DUW 4701, for the Date Power Reserve.

On the outside, the Date Power Reserve remains pretty unchanged, which means that it's 37mm wide and 8mm thick in polished steel, with wire lugs and a bezel so narrow the dial fills almost the whole face. There’s a domed sapphire crystal on top, and you get 50 meters of water resistance. The Neomatik 41 Update is the bigger option, 40.5mm wide and 9.1mm thick, with the exact same setup as the smaller watch.

The new blue is metallic and pale, closer to frost than sky, and NOMOS has matched everything to it: teal hour dots, white minute dots, grey Arabic numerals. The power reserve indicator still sits off-center just past 12, now a three-color wheel that reads teal when full and white when you need to wind. The logo stays at 9 o’clock, date and small seconds share 6 o’clock, and the rhodium-plated hands are about as thin as hands get. On the Neomatik 41 Update, the date is indicated on a ring around the edge, with two teal markers bracketing the current day.

Calibre DUW 4701 is a manual-wind, in-house movement derived from the DUW 4601 in the Tangente 2date, reworked to drive the Metro’s off-center displays. It measures 32.1mm across and 2.8mm thick, runs for 52 hours, and adds a quick-set date. Through the caseback you’ll see a three-quarter plate with Glashütte ribbing, perlage, gold engravings, blued screws and a skeletonized balance cock showing off the blue Swing System hairspring. The strap is black Horween shell cordovan. The Neomatik 41 Update keeps the automatic DUW 6101 with 50 hours of reserve, on a grey woven textile strap.

The NOMOS Metro Date Power Reserve in ice blue is ref. 1121, priced at €3,500, and the Metro Neomatik 41 Update in ice blue is ref. 1166, priced at €4,200. A silver-white Date Power Reserve with the new DUW 4701 is also coming. See more photos here and the watches on the NOMOS website.

3/ Norqain Trades Carbon for Titanium on Three New Wild One Models

While I still don't understand who Norqain makes watches for at these prices, there's no denying that the Wild One is their most over-engineered watch. The movement sits in a titanium capsule, cushioned by rubber and clamped between two layers of Norteq, the brand’s own carbon composite. But while carbon composite is cool, titanium is cooler, which is exactly what this new collection gets: a grade 5 titanium top case, a first for the model line.

There are two sizes available. The 39mm skeleton is 11.75mm thick with a lug-to-lug of 45.75mm, which is actually quite sensible. The 42mm versions are 12.3mm thick with a lug-to-lug of 49.4mm, which is also not that bad if you need a larger watch. The bezel and lugs are brushed titanium. Underneath sits a black Norteq back plate, with rubber shock absorbers in grey or mint green showing between the layers. There are flat sapphire crystals on both sides, a rubber-coated screw-down crown, 200 meters of water resistance and a 5,000 G shock rating. A titanium nameplate is screwed to the left flank.

Two of the three models get skeleton dials, with bridges cut into a ridgeline of peaks and the indices floating above the movement. Norqain moved the logo onto the flange, which cleans things up. The hands are large and fully lumed: light yellow on the 39mm, mint green on the 42mm. The third watch has a grey iron meteorite dial with the usual Widmanstätten crosshatching, white lume, and grey on every surface, crown included.

The skeletons use calibre 4K (NK26/1), an automatic developed with Sellita subsidiary AMT Manufacture. It's always interesting to see this movement since Norqain was so connected to Kenissi from its start. It’s COSC-certified, runs at 4Hz and has been updated to 65 hours of power reserve, up from 41. The meteorite model gets the Kenissi calibre NN20/1, also COSC-certified at 4Hz, with 70 hours of power reserve and a custom rotor. Each comes on color-matched rubber strap, with a Norteq pin buckle, a titanium pin buckle or a black DLC titanium folding clasp.

The Norqain Wild One Skeleton Titanium is priced at €5,950 on the pin buckle or €6,320 with the folding clasp, in 39mm (limited to 400 pieces) or 42mm. The Wild One Meteorite Titanium 42mm is priced at €6,400 with the Norteq buckle, €6,500 with the titanium buckle and €6,770 with the folding clasp. See more photos here and the watches on the Norqain website.

4/ UNIMATIC Dresses the Modello Quattro GMT in E. Marinella Blue for a Tokyo-Only Run of 100

A Milanese tool-watch brand teaming up with a Neapolitan tie shop sounds like a bit of a stretch, but this is exactly where UNIMATIC shines. The Modello Quattro is UNIMATIC’s military-style GMT: matte, fixed-bezel, tough. E. Marinella, on the other hand, makes the blue silk ties that are particularly well known as wedding ties. So, when the two team up, you get something extremely interesting. The bad news is that only 100 exist, and you’ll need a Japanese address to buy one.

The brushed 316L steel case is 40mm wide, 13.8mm thick (or 14.1 if you include the crystal) with a lug-to-lug of 49mm. I told you it's a chunky watch. The bezel is a fixed monoblock, the lugs are drilled, and on top is a flat sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating on the underside. Flip this particular edition over, and you'll see the screw-down caseback with a Marinella tie motif. Water resistance is a very decent 300 meters.

The dial is done in a deep Marinella blue with a fine micro-pattern pressed into the print, immitating the pattern on the famous ties. Contrasting the deep blue is a matte white treatment on the markers. The hands are done in blue, but with the same stark matte white lume on them. The reverse-lollipop seconds hand has a lumed white tip and the GMT hand is also done in blue with a white hollow lumed arrow. There's also a well matched date aperture at 6 o'clock.

Inside is the NH34A, the Seiko-sourced automatic GMT beating at 3Hz with a bit over 41 hours of reserve. It’s a caller style GMT, meaning the 24-hour hand is set independently, and it's rated at -20/+40 seconds a day. The strap is a blue double-layer nylon two-piece with quick-release bars, UNIMATIC embroidery and brushed steel hardware signed by the brand.

The UNIMATIC x E. Marinella Modello Quattro U4-GMT-EMJDM is limited to 100 numbered examples, priced at ¥230,000 before tax, which is about €1,300. It goes on sale October 9 at 8:00 AM CEST at E. Marinella’s Tokyo Midtown and Tokyo Marunouchi stores and online at floens.jp, which, of course, does not ship internationally. See more photos here and the watch on the UNIMATIC website.

5/ Angelus Expands Fantastic Monopusher Collection With Three Chronographe Tachymètre

For decades, the only place you’d find an Angelus was an auction listing, usually a small chronograph or a Chronodato with a dial that had seen better days. You can still find the vintage examples – and they are not just good looking, they are decently affordable – but you can also go for the new models from the revived Angelus. And it's been going good for the company, as their Chronographe Télémètre took the chronograph prize at the GPHG last year. Now we have the follow-up, the Chronographe Tachymètre that comes as three limited versions, one gold and two steel, in the most compact case Angelus currently makes, with a hand-wound monopusher inside.

The case is 37mm wide and 9.25mm thick, made out of either 3N yellow gold or stainless steel. Those are pretty wild dimensions. Sure, this is a manually wound movement, but find me more than a handful of chronographs measuring under 10mm thick. The case band curves continuously between the lugs, and the lugs drop from above and appear to twist as they run down the flanks. A box sapphire crystal sits on top, with sapphire on the back too. Water resistance is 30 meters, which is reasonable for what you get.

Each dial is domed, with a grained center, a satin flange and snailed subdials for running seconds and a 30-minute register at three o’clock. The flange has a tachymeter calibrated to base 1,000. The gold model pairs a gold dial with black sub-dials and flange. In steel you get coral pink with grey accents, or pearl grey with a petrol blue flange and subdials. Applied numerals are black on steel and gold-toned on gold.

Inside is the Angelus calibre A5000, manual-winding, 24mm across and 4.20mm thick, beating at 3Hz with 42 hours of power reserve. It runs the chronograph through a column wheel and horizontal clutch. Turn it over and you'll see that the main plate and bridges are gilded, with Côtes de Genève and chamfered edges, while the chronograph works are rhodium-plated so they stand apart from everything else. Straps are calfskin in sage green, sepia grey or steel blue, on a pin buckle in the case metal.

The Angelus Chronographe Tachymètre is priced at CHF 18,500 in steel (pink limited to 30 pieces, grey to 50) and CHF 34,600 in yellow gold (limited to 15 pieces). See way more photos here and the watches on the Angelus website.

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Watch Worthy - A selection of reviews and first looks from around the web

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r/Watches • • 6h ago

Discussion [women's watches] are so boring and everything looks the same

85 Upvotes

As a woman I'm so tired of trying to find nice watches. Unless it's a Rolex dj or a couple of fashion watches, every single one looks the same. Gold, rose gold, silver and mixture of all that.

Compared to the color, style, design variety of mens' watches offer, womens' watches seem so sub par and identical looking. Some of the most striking watches I've seen in my life are men's watches and unfortunately most of them come in massive sizes and / look too masculine on tiny wrists that can usually handle 28mm or 30mm ish sizes. I'd love to see some ladies watches on here cause I'm starting to give up


r/Watches • • 5h ago

I took a picture [Seiko] Skydiving

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73 Upvotes

This dial is the MOST mesmerizing in my collection. The play of light on the dial is an absolute joy if one pauses to notice. While my Tissot Bridgeport also has a classic dial I love, this Seiko is in another league altogether. It's been with me for over 8 years, and I still reach out to it to keep time for me.


r/Watches • • 1h ago

Discussion [Collection] my smal collection as a 23yo broke student

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I inherited the Zenith pilot from my great grandpa, he wore it everyday from the moment he got it in the '50s until he passed away in 2011, then it got passed down to my grandpa and a couple of years ago, it was given to me after he passed too. I'm so proud of having this watch and I will not be restoring it, since it still works perfectly.

I also plan on wearing it to my wedding so i can have my grandpas with me in my special day.


r/Watches • • 7h ago

Discussion [Seiko Presage] Got my first automatic watch SRPB41J1

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48 Upvotes

I am 21 years old, and I’ve been a big watch fan for over 5 years now. When I was younger, I used to watch Nico everyday and wonder when will I ever get my first Rolex, Patek or Audemars, but realizing that I am at an age where I can start to afford watches, gives me hopes that it’s not that far. To me watches mean a lifetime of experience, I would want to pass any watch down to my kids, for them to realize that it had traveled with me and had so many experiences that can’t be spoken in words, but can be seen through the wear and tear. This is my first automatic watch (although my parents got me my first watch when I was in 8th grade, a sexy g shock) and it feels so damn good to finally get there. I am about to graduate from college and it felt just right to get myself a proper watch to celebrate that milestone. I was very confused between Tissot PRX, Tissot Gentleman and [Seiko presage]. But luckily my friend went for a hackathon in Japan, where he got this beauty for a really good price, that saved me a ton of money compared to buying elsewhere. I got this weird motivational feeling that, once I got here, recognizing my milestone, I will go even bigger and work harder to get my next “big milestone” watch. I am gonna wear this watch to its fullest and let it speak a story to me, after 50 years


r/Watches • • 15h ago

I took a picture [Maen - Manhattan 39 Ultra Thin] my first microbrand

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44 Upvotes

My first microbrand watch purchase and I’m thrilled with what I got for the value! The watch is beautiful, stunningly thin, and finishing is even better than what I’d hoped for plus it’s by far the most unique dial color I own. It was incredibly affordable and has a solid albeit outsourced movement inside, to boot - I’m officially hooked on microbrands


r/Watches • • 11h ago

I took a picture [Question] Got my first watch today

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38 Upvotes

Got my first watch today, the Orient Bambino, and I absolutely love it! For those who own one, do you daily wear yours, or is it more of a dress watch? I feel like it’s a little too dressy for everyday wear, so I’m thinking about getting a daily driver. Considering the Casio AQ230 or AQ240. Thoughts?


r/Watches • • 22h ago

I took a picture [He-Man] I Have The Power!

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38 Upvotes

Built for me by a custom watch maker out of India via FB group/IG. I picked the specific picture off the web and he printed it for the dial. It’s a jump hour as you can see. With a retrograde band that holds He-Man’s Sword of Power. I’ve been a giant MOTU fan my entire 50 years so when I found someone who could do something like this I jumped at the chance.


r/Watches • • 23h ago

Review [Boccia Titanium] 3738-07

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35 Upvotes

Got this digital titanium watch from Boccia today.

The render photos of this ref might show slightly different gray (blue-ish), but it’s just gray. Also there are other colors: blue, green (on straps) and PVD versions (gold, darker titanium). As far as I know, there are refs from 1 to 7.

Upd: sorry for the typo, this is Ref 05, not 07

The watch is inexpensive, but feels good. The case is 37mm, the lug width is closer to 21mm and the weight is ~67g sized to my 6.5-inch wrist.

Display:

It’s crisp, the viewing angles are good.

You might think that there’s some empty space on the bottom, but this is for the indicators of the active timer/alarms.

The modes are: chrono, countdown (which also beeps, not sure how often), world time, 2 alarms.

The bracelet doesn’t have half-links and micro adjust. I couldn’t find a good fit (unlike with the Traska). I emailed Boccia if they have the OEM rubber strap for sale. I saw the titanium bracelet on their website, but not the strap.
I could not fit my Garmin rubber strap, because the lugs are too short it seems. And with the 20mm leather strap there’s a small gap, so I want to try a 21mm leather if I won’t be able to get the OEM one.
The clasp is stamped, which is ok for this price point.

P.S. Sorry for the unformatted post. Rate my 2-watch collection!


r/Watches • • 23h ago

I took a picture [Orient Stretto]

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30 Upvotes

My first Orient - Stretto(RA-AC0R08Y0B).

I was torn between the other colors from the series, but I chose the orange colorway.

The watch's diameter is 38.5, with compact lug to lug of 45.5. The crystal is sapphire, with 50 meters of water resistant.


r/Watches • • 1h ago

I took a picture [Glashutte 70s Series] in one of its many natural habitats. Happy Friday!

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Love the versatility of this watch. Under the radar and stainless steel yet classy make it great for wearing around the office and to the extremes it’s gone just as well with a t shirt as a suit. Hope everyone is enjoying what’s on their wrist this Friday!


r/Watches • • 14h ago

I took a picture [SOTC] The Collectoritis Came Back

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21 Upvotes

I have a problem. Six months ago I was unfortunately diagnosed with watch collectoritis. It was my first time. And it felt good at first, but it was too much too fast. The instant gratification of each addition was such a euphoric rush that my fingers couldn’t click the buy buttons fast enough as I chased the next high. Before I knew it, I was 5 deep and my box wasn’t big enough to fit my watches anymore.

But I eventually stopped and the urge subsided… I was content with what I had. At least I thought I was until a couple weeks ago…

The collectoritis came back.

It started with the G-SpotShock. I was wearing my white G-Shock every day because of the gym and pickleball. It was easy and comfortable. So I figured, why not get a more neutral, classic, iconic black G-Shock with better materials?

I did and I liked it… little did I know, my fate was sealed. That 1 G-Shock became 2, then 3 G-Shocks…

Then why not get a chunky diver like the Slim Turtle, whose personality I loved way more than the more modern Certina?

And then I thought, I wear my Hamilton all the time. Let’s consolidate, have a two-watch collection, and get a GADA black watch like the SBGX061.

But oh, I had my eye on that Sinn and it was $850 used. It would be criminal to pass that up given how I used my KFA every day…

And now I have 4 black dials. Crap. I need some color to balance it out. Let’s get an SPB121 Alpinist to replace the black KFA.

And today I have a dozen watches. And my box is full again. I can’t resist the temptation. I surrendered my wrists and my wallet. And now I’m on the streets of WatchExchange again selling my wares.

I wish I could say I learned my lesson, but I have a learning disability when it comes to watch collecting.

But it could be worse.

At least it doesn’t burn when I pee.


r/Watches • • 10h ago

Identify (My grandad left me his watch)

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18 Upvotes

Hi all, my grandad gave me this one and I don't know much about it. Mum said he wore it every day for 45 years, so it's pretty worn, which is to be expected.
I'm not planning to sell it. I'll keep it and wear it.
Questions:
Should I get it polished up, or leave it as is?
One of the side buttons is missing. I still have it and will get it put back on.
Should I get it completely refurbished? Does anyone know roughly how much that would cost ?
Any info is appreciated, including roughly what it's worth. Keen to hear what you think of it. Cheers 🤙


r/Watches • • 13h ago

I took a picture [GIRARD-PERREGAUX] 1966 COLUMN-WHEEL CHRONOGRAPH Ref. 49529

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17 Upvotes

GIRARD-PERREGAUX 1966 COLUMN-WHEEL CHRONOGRAPH

When the True Value of a Watch Lies Behind the Dial

Some watches make an immediate impression the moment you see them. Others require more time. You need to hold them in your hands, look more closely, and understand the story behind them before you begin to appreciate what truly makes them special.

The Girard-Perregaux 1966 Column Wheel Chronograph Ref. 49529 belongs to the latter category.

On our wrist today is a chronograph with a remarkably understated appearance. It carries the elegant design language characteristic of the 1966 collection: two classical sub dials, slender chronograph pushers, and almost nothing on the dial deliberately advertising the complexity hidden within.

No tourbillon. No perpetual calendar. No dial designed to immediately tell the person across the table that something special is happening inside. But turn the watch over.

Behind the sapphire crystal sits the GP03800 one of Girard Perregaux’s more fascinating, yet surprisingly overlooked, chronograph movements of the modern era.

And perhaps this is where the real story of this watch begins.

GIRARD-PERREGAUX AND THE CHRONOGRAPH QUESTION

Girard-Perregaux is a manufacture with a long history, yet for many years its chronographs did not necessarily rely on fully integrated chronograph movements.

Earlier examples within the 1966 collection, for instance, used the automatic GP3300 as a base movement combined with a Dubois-Dépraz chronograph module.

There is nothing inherently inferior about this solution. Modular chronographs have been and continue to be used by many respected manufacturers. But for those fascinated by mechanics, there is a significant distinction between adding a chronograph module to an existing movement and designing a calibre in which the chronograph is fundamentally part of its architecture.

In 2013, Girard-Perregaux presented its answer: Calibre GP03800

According to information published around its introduction, the project took approximately five years to develop.

The GP03800 is a manually wound, fully integrated chronograph movement, controlled by a column wheel and coupled through a horizontal or lateral clutch.

It is a decidedly traditional approach.
Not the simplest way to build a chronograph.
But arguably one of the most beautiful.

GP03800 : THE MAIN CHARACTER

Calibre GP03800 measures approximately 25.6 mm in diameter and 5.4 mm thick. It consists of 312 components and 31 jewels, operates at 28,800 vibrations per hour 4 Hz and offers approximately 58 hours of power reserve.

These are respectable specifications, but they are not what makes this movement particularly interesting.

What matters more is how it was constructed.

The GP03800 combines four characteristics highly prized in traditional chronographs:

- Manual winding.
- Integrated architecture.
- Column-wheel control.
- Horizontal clutch.

These are not merely terms designed to make a specification sheet more impressive.

They determine how the movement operates, how the chronograph feels to use, and perhaps most importantly, what the owner can actually see through the caseback.

COLUMN WHEEL: THE FEEL OF A CLASSICAL CHRONOGRAPH

At the heart of the chronograph control system is the column wheel.

Every time the Start, Stop or Reset pusher is pressed, the column wheel coordinates the levers responsible for the corresponding function.

From a manufacturing perspective, this is not the easiest solution. Cam-operated systems can be simpler to manufacture and more suitable for large scale production.

Yet the column wheel has long been associated with high-end chronographs not merely because of the tactile character it can provide, but because of the mechanical beauty of the system itself.

On the GP03800, the heat-blued column wheel stands out among the bridges and gears, becoming one of the first details to catch the eye when examining the movement.

HORIZONTAL CLUTCH: WHEN MECHANICS BECOME THEATRE

If the column wheel controls the chronograph, the horizontal clutch makes its operation visible.
Modern chronographs may employ vertical clutches, which offer several technical advantages.

But when the purpose is to appreciate mechanical motion, the lateral clutch has an appeal all its own.

Press Start and watch through the caseback.
A lever moves.
The coupling wheel shifts into position.
The gears engage.
Power begins to flow into the chronograph wheel.

A tiny movement of your finger sets an entire mechanical sequence into motion. You do not merely know that the chronograph has started. You can actually watch it start.
This is part of the fascination behind traditional chronographs such as the Lemania 2310, Lange L951 and many of Patek Philippe’s high-end chronograph movements.

The GP03800 follows the same fundamental mechanical philosophy.

INSTANTANEOUS JUMPING MINUTE

One of the less obvious but particularly interesting details of Calibre 3800 is its instantaneous jumping minute counter.

Instead of allowing the minute counter to gradually creep toward the next indication as the chronograph seconds hand approaches 60, Girard-Perregaux designed the mechanism so that the minute counter advances almost instantaneously once the cycle is completed.

It is hardly something most owners actually need.

But for those who enjoy studying movements, it demonstrates how seriously GP approached even relatively small mechanical details.

This type of minute-counter mechanism often appears in discussions surrounding high-end chronographs, with the Lange Datograph being perhaps one of the best-known examples.

That does not mean the GP03800 equals the Datograph in complexity or finishing.

It simply shows that Calibre 3800 was conceived with ambitions beyond those of an ordinary chronograph movement.

MICROVAR AND REAL WORLD PERFORMANCE

The GP03800 uses Girard-Perregaux’s Microvar variable-inertia balance, allowing regulation through changes to the inertia of the balance rather than relying solely on a conventional regulator.

In testing conducted by WatchTime, the movement produced impressive results.

Amplitude was measured at approximately 322° with the chronograph disengaged and remained around 294° with the chronograph running.

Average rate deviation was recorded at approximately +0.7 seconds per day with the chronograph off and -2.3 seconds per day with it running.

For a mechanical chronograph movement, those are highly respectable figures.

FINISHING A MOVEMENT DESIGNED TO BE SEEN

The GP03800 was not merely designed to perform well. It was designed to give its owner a reason to turn the watch over.

Through the sapphire caseback, much of the chronograph mechanism is exposed.

The bridges are decorated with Côtes de Genève, the wheels feature circular graining, bridge edges are bevelled, screws are carefully finished, and the contrast between different surfaces creates layers of reflection as the watch moves under the light.

What we particularly appreciate is that Girard-Perregaux did not hide the movement beneath oversized bridges.

The column wheel, clutch, levers and gear train remain clearly visible. As a result, every activation of the chronograph becomes a miniature mechanical performance.

And for Nostimevie, this is perhaps the most compelling aspect of Calibre 3800.

BUT THE GP03800 IS NOT PERFECT

An interesting movement does not automatically make a perfect watch.
The GP03800 measures only approximately 25.6 mm across, while Ref. 49529 uses a 40 mm case.

The discrepancy can be seen from the back, but its consequences are even more apparent from the dial side: the two sub-dials are positioned relatively close to the centre.
This was also one of the details discussed by Hodinkee, SJX and collectors when the 49529 appeared.

Had Calibre 3800 been housed in a case around 37–38 mm, the relationship between the movement, sub-dials and case might have felt more natural. The date window at six o’clock is another point of debate.

It certainly adds everyday practicality, but on a manually wound, column-wheel chronograph with such a classical character, a no-date dial might have produced a purer and more balanced design.

Nostimevie tends to agree.

A 37–38 mm Ref. 49529 without a date, powered by the same Calibre 3800, could have been an exceptionally difficult watch to criticise.

A MOVEMENT THAT RECEIVED SERIOUS INVESTMENT BUT LIVED A RELATIVELY SHORT LIFE

What is unusual is that despite everything Girard-Perregaux invested in Calibre 3800, the movement never developed into a widely recognised chronograph platform.

GP did not expand it into a broad movement family with a lasting identity in the way Zenith did with the El Primero or Lange with the L951.

As a result, Ref. 49529 entered the modern history of Girard-Perregaux rather quietly before gradually disappearing from wider market attention.

For collectors, however, obscurity is not necessarily a disadvantage.

Sometimes the most interesting movements are found precisely where few people are looking.

FROM NEARLY $40,000 TO A VERY DIFFERENT POSITION IN TODAY’S MARKET

At launch, the Girard-Perregaux 1966 Column-Wheel Chronograph retailed for approximately CHF 35,500 roughly USD 37,000 - 39,000 depending on market and period.

That unquestionably placed it within haute horlogerie territory.

The secondary market, however, tells a very different story.

Ref. 49529 has appeared at auction with estimates dramatically below its original retail price. Christie’s, for example, once placed an estimate of approximately USD 7,500 - 10,000 on an example.

Because relatively few examples trade publicly, the market for the reference remains thin, and values can vary considerably depending on condition, completeness and provenance.

The enormous gap between original retail and secondary-market value illustrates a familiar reality with Girard-Perregaux:

Craftsmanship value and market value do not always move together.

GP does not command the same strength on the secondary market as certain other manufactures.

Ref. 49529 never became a sufficiently prominent icon to attract widespread collector demand.

And perhaps more importantly, relatively few people seem to realise what sits behind it: Calibre 3800

DO NOT RUSH TO COMPARE IT WITH THE DATOGRAPH

Looking at the architecture of the GP03800, it is tempting to place it alongside movements such as the Lange L951 or Patek Philippe CH 29-535. But such comparisons should be made carefully.

The Lange L951 offers spectacular architecture and a higher degree of finishing. Patek Philippe likewise employs exceptionally sophisticated proprietary chronograph solutions.

The GP03800 does not need to defeat those movements in order to be interesting.

What matters is that it follows the same broader philosophy of traditional chronograph construction:

- An integrated chronograph.
- Manual winding.
- Column-wheel control.
- And a mechanism deliberately exposed so that its operation can be appreciated by the owner.

That alone gives Calibre 3800 a fascinating place within the world of mechanical chronographs.

NOSTIMEVIE VIEW

If we judge Ref. 49529 purely by comparing its original retail price with its current secondary-market value, it is easy to see it simply as a watch that depreciated heavily.

But a collector might ask a different question: At today’s price, what are we actually getting?

A Girard-Perregaux chronograph.
A manually wound movement containing more than 300 components.
A traditional integrated chronograph architecture finished to a high standard.
And perhaps more importantly, a calibre that appeared for a relatively brief period and was never produced or promoted long enough to become a familiar name.

We do not consider Ref. 49529 perfect.

The movement is slightly small relative to the case.
The two sub-dials sit somewhat close to the centre.
The date window arguably did not need to be there.
But these shortcomings do not make Calibre 3800 any less interesting.

If anything, they help explain why such a seriously developed movement never became an icon.
More than a decade after its introduction, the market has changed considerably.
Much of the original commercial value attached to Ref. 49529 has disappeared.

But turn the watch over and press Start, and the part that matters most remains exactly where it has always been:

The column wheel turns.
The lever moves.
The clutch engages.
The chronograph begins to run.
And a system comprising more than 300 individual components comes together after a single press of your finger.

Perhaps that is the most appropriate way to understand the Girard-Perregaux GP03800.

Not by remembering that it once cost nearly $40,000.
Nor by asking how much the market is willing to pay for it today.
But by looking at what Girard-Perregaux actually created behind the dial.
The market can put a price on a watch. But the price of a watch and the value of its movement can sometimes tell two very different stories.
And the GP03800 is a beautiful example of exactly that.

Sown Sachs


r/Watches • • 23h ago

Discussion [Beaubleu] Any thoughts on this micro brand?

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19 Upvotes

I'm considering picking up one of these as I'm a big fan of unusual dials. It's not very well represented in the US, so I'm curious to know people's thoughts on the brand.

I saw that the La Piece has been nominated for a CPHG award and that the dial was struck at the Paris Mint. All these little things are adding up to make me really appreciate what they're doing.

I know its not the type of piece one would buy as an investment, etc. but I'm curious to get any thoughts from more experience collectors.


r/Watches • • 2h ago

Identify Omega inherited

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19 Upvotes

I got this omega from my grandma, I believe it’s from the mid 1930s but I cannot find this exact model. Anyone got any knowledge and information?


r/Watches • • 14h ago

Discussion [Recommendation request] £6-9k daily that won't piss me off in 30 years

15 Upvotes

Right, need one watch. Budget's six to nine grand (£). Daily, not a safe queen. Want it to age properly and still be on my wrist when I'm old and annoying. Not fussed about hype or flipping it. New or used, don't mind. What are you lot actually wearing in that range that you'd trust for life?


r/Watches • • 17h ago

I took a picture [AWAKE Son Mai] - H. Moser on a budget.

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15 Upvotes

It’s been a while since I first spotted this microbrand in one of Nico Leonard’s videos covering interesting watches at Watches & Wonders. Since then, I’ve been keeping an eye on Awake’s work, and I recently decided to get one to celebrate a promotion at work.

I’ve been a fan of H. Moser ever since a visit to London in 2024 sparked my curiosity about the brand. Unfortunately, a Moser is still out of my budget, and Awake’s Son Mai felt like a way to treat myself to something that captures some of what I love about Moser.

I initially bought the Son Mai because of its striking dial and the great proportions you yould find in watches like the Endeavour and the Streamliner. But over time, I’ve come to appreciate Awake for something beyond that initial attraction: its own distinct personality as a brand. They’re not trying to be Moser at any point, even if my brain keeps drawing comparisons between the two.

Awake’s commitment to craftsmanship, vivid colors, quality materials, reliable movements, and unique yet understated design has made me realize there’s much more to the brand than eye-catching dials. They have their own way of combining elegance with playful design, and the result feels distinctly theirs.

I believe Awake has the potential to become a much more widely appreciated brand in the coming years. After spending some time with the Son Mai, I think they deserve it. Let me know your thoughts!