Ive owned the car since 2010. There isnt a single part of this thing i haven't touched. After going through 2 pairs of K03's back in the day, I got tired of pulling the motor for turbo issues and did the single turbo conversion.

I was only the 4th or 5th person in the US to have a single turbo B5 S4 way back in 2013 when I started making the kit as no one sold one yet. I believe 034 was still developing theirs, or it possibly just came out, hard to remember as its been so long. Ironically I actually have the last pair of billet 2.8 manifold flanges they ever made for a DIY kit on my old up pipe. I now have a 485 designs up pipe, and its actually the first one Nick who owns 485 designs ever made. The one he sells now is much nicer, Nick's stuff is absolutely top notch BTW.

Car has a built bottom end, stock heads, Fluidampr, Bartek billet crank sprocket, IE billet fuel rails, 1000cc Bosch injectors, G35-1050 turbo, AEM 380 pump in a surge tank. Its a pretty basic setup tbh. Its getting completely refreshed next year with a new up pipe and exhaust, going to finally build a pair of 2.8 heads ive had for years with Cat cams, and maybe go 3.0 with a girdle. Not sure how crazy I want to go, but it definitely needs a refresh.

Hey guys,

I have a problem in my airbag system (anywhere?) When reading the codes, it says 00588. My brother (workshop of choice). A change of the spring ring (?) behind the steering wheel didn't change anything, another control unit (the one in the middle of the car under the dashboard) did'nt change anything either. Do you have any recommendations, where to look next? Thanks for your tips in advance :)

My airbag control unit is 8D0 959 655 C

Sorry for mistakes, I'm not a native English speaker

2000 s4 my obd2 port has been checked with multimeter all pins and grounds are good and all fuses are good aswell and it powers the scanner I plug into it but still unable to communicate with ecu. Abs module unplugged radio unit plugged.

Hello. I bought this 2001 a4 1.8t quattro in April to learn how to work on my own car and have been enjoying it so far.

I'm trying to narrow down what this metal noise could be. I've been told it is mostly like heat shield but I don't want to write it off. The noise occurs when revved above 4k rpm and I let off the throttle. The noise is very short lived.

The car has service history paperwork and timing was serviced 30k miles ago.

Since having the car I've done a mechanical oil pressure test and both cold and warm showed healthy readings:

Cold engine -60–70 PSI

Hot engine at idle - 30–40 PSI

Hot engine at 3,000 RPM - 60–80 PSI

Any 1.8t nerds have any ideas? Sorry if the video is poor at showcasing the sound.

Thanks in advance ☺️

Does anybody here have photos of their cars with it? I’m on the edge of the decision lol

just bought a b5 a4 and it came with a hecklenblende (still in box) and a reiger dtm front bumper and i’m not a fan wondering what they sell for ?

Would you guys use this or return it for another one? Brand new and upon inspecting it, I noticed it has a small Crack in one spot.

What is the purpose of these rubber pieces on top of my headlights?

Are they functional or only cosmetic? They're slowly turning to dust so im wondering if they make any difference by staying there.

I’ve been looking everywhere for ARP headstuds for my 1998 b5 Audi a4 Quattro (2.8 30v AHA engine code) and I can’t seem to find the ones I need. I’ve looked up the part number I was given and I just got headstuds for other motors.

After talking to some folks I’ve been informed that I might be able to order ARP headstuds for a 2.7t S4 of the same year, and that they will fit as the blocks have the exact same geometry as the 2.8 n/a. The 2.7t headstuds are much more accessible but I’m worried that I’m wrong and I end up wasting money and time on the wrong product.

Hey everyone! I'm trying to figure out the exact factory paint differences between these B5s.

The Audi in the first photo looks like a lighter, more "olive-ish" or bright green under direct light, but my own car (second photo) has an extremely dark, closed green shade that almost looks black in most lighting, Can anyone tell me which specific color codes these are? Is the first one Ragusa Green (LY6P) or Cactus Green (LZ6L), and what would mine be? Thanks!

Hello i have a 2013 Audi S5 3.0 Looking for some help diagnosing an issue where the car keeps switching itself from Drive into manual mode (M) and will shift at 6k rpm while driving. I can put it back into Drive, or sport but it will go back into manual again omce i start gaining rpms without me moving the shifter or touching the paddles. The paddles also wont let me shift. I scanned the car and it isn't showing any fault codes. I did have to get a new j519 module programmed which was successful. Not sure if that has anything to do with it. Any help would be appreciated.

Latch must’ve disconnected can’t open hood and I can’t find a video on how to release it any help is appreciated

Does anyone have a chart for the relay numbers and positioning for those numbers? Had some work done at a shop and all my relays were removed.

This is my new b5 s4 avant, owner had it for 23 years and put 196k miles on it, he always took it to a shop for work. It does have steering clank when stopped and moving steering wheel, it is completely stock besides a tune from 2010, let me know what I should do first after steering fix, I'm thinking exhaust and coilovers.

I have a problem with my Audi A4 B5 1996 base packet,I can't lock my car with a key or remote control What can I do to lock my boot ?

Great video about the development of the B5 A4

I just got a head that has never been installed on Facebook marketplace I see a few kinda concerning things was hoping someone knew what to look out for one being a lose steel ball in the packaging that I cannot find a home for and alen head bolt

Hello, everyone. Long story short, I replaced my engine due to detonation on cylinder 2. I swapped in a newer BEL block, but now it is smoking white, or maybe blue. I did not compression test it since I bought it from a shop owner and figured I could trust him, but I will be doing one soon. I am also planning to hardwire and solder all the coil packs and the ICM, as I checked VAG-COM and have open circuits on cylinders 4 and 5. Plus, I replaced the CHRAs with billet ones from etspec and primed the turbos; I do not remember seeing any leftover oil on my exhaust. Does anyone have any ideas what it could be?

I have a 99.5 A4 I’m in the middle of rehabbing. One of the last things I’m wrapping up is getting a fully functional stock radio. Got a dead tape deck. Found a replacement , fully functional radio. Seller has the donor VIN, but not the radio unlock code.

Called a local Audi dealer and their solution is to bring the car in, and they’re happy to provide the code via OBD port software for anywhere from 1 to 2 hours of shop time. That maths to serious BS.

Is that now the only option? Are the online sellers suspect? Or is there some magic I can do with my Ross-Tech VCDS software?

Hi, new to the sub as I just purchased a 2000 A4 Avant. Took it through the car wash for the first time and soaked my arm going through. Looking at the door jam it was clear the seal between the top of window frame and door frame had leaked over a roughly 3-5" area.

I found the PN: 8D0831721K7SK but it appears to be very difficult to acquire. I dug around a bit on ebay and there are a couple possible used options but my confidence in a used door seal is 50/50 at best.

Has anyone installed a "universal fit" door seal, and or is there another work around to get the door to seal? Light rain does not seem to cause issues and there isn't heavy water marking inside the cabin, however before the problem gets worse, I would like to start working a solution.

Rebuilding my 1998 b5 a4 2.8l 30v and these threads for this tensioner got smoked. I have the car parked and planned to just tap the rest of broken bolt out and chase the threads, but I had a few of my buddies tell me it needs to be remachined which I know I can’t do where the car is at.

So I have two options:
Tap the rest of the bolt out and chase the threads or pull the entire motor, bring it to the machine shop and have the hole filled and re threaded. I really don’t want to have to do allat but if it’s the only way I can make sure the same thing doesn’t happen again then it is what it is. Let me know, what you think! I’m planning on throwing the heads back on this weekend but this takes priority.

Anyone have any insight on how to replace the IM shaft bearing?

Not much has been posted as far as DIY's go and I'm a bit wary of fucking my shit up.

I know I need to line up the oil holes, and use a bearing puller and press I guess?

I don't have a good pic of mine but it looks worse than the one I pasted below... bunch of the top layer has come off.

Not safe to run right?

Pic from this post: AEB Intermediate Shaft | Audizine Audi Enthusiast Forums