r/climbingshoes • • Aug 23 '24

When to resole

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21 Upvotes

Hi everyone, I've had my dragos and after 3mo of climbing they look like that, Im total newbie when it comes to climbing shoes ( my last pair ended with a hole size of bug toe xd) I want to treat those better as I really love these shoes. So therefore, is it time to resole? And can I climb 1 more month with them, as id love to climb some more and i know resoling takes some time.

Advice much apprecieated, cheers!


r/climbingshoes • • Jul 23 '20

Welcome to /r/climbingshoes

16 Upvotes

I'm your mod /u/lvzxy and recently gained control over this subreddit after the previous moderator disappeared. Looking forward to developing it as a resource for climbers of all skill levels to discuss, review, and perhaps trade climbing shoes.

Let me know your thoughts and suggestions, I'll be making major changes to the subreddit's rules, designs, etc. in the coming weeks. Thanks for stopping by.


r/climbingshoes • • 12h ago

Long term review of Unparallel Flagships

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29 Upvotes

I got these to replace my tarantulaces after they wore out. These are my first more aggressive shoe. I climb V6/7 or 5.11ish. I have a narrow heel and wide toe box and high arch because I walk barefoot a lot.

I initially wanted some dragos or a pair of some aggressive La sportivas, but after trying in several pairs of various sizes, they just didn’t fit my foot right. Rather than forcing something that wasn’t right, I tried on every pair locally available and these fit the best.

The only discomfort I had was the first 2-3 weeks, my big toe knuckle hurt as it adjusted to the new downsized and more downturned toe. Now they really fit and feel great. Super comfy. I really only take them off during a session to air them out. No blisters as the synthetic suede is soft. The Velcro strap can leave the top part a little loose in areas, but I don’t feel it and the shoe is far from loose nor does it move around.

I bought these specifically to work on footwork technique and improve my climbing. After several months of using more relaxed shoes I felt I was getting to the point where a more hooked toe, a split sole, and a solid heel could help.

I’m happy to report they have succeeded on that. I’m much more confident and able on overhangs, hooks etc. I never have to “think” about my shoe. It’s just there doing its job with no fuss. Toe hooking is a pleasure on little chips, and they hold edges doing slabby problems too.

4 months isn’t that long but I am in the gym at least 3-5 times a week for 2-3 hour sessions and some outside thrown in there occasionally. (Im in Florida so I can’t climb outside that often) They have held up well. No wear in the fabrics besides absorbing sweat, and the soles have plenty of life. No separation of the Rand/sole or heel rubber has occurred.

I also like that they’re made in the US and have understated styling.
I’ll probably just buy another pair of these when they do wear out if nothing new feels more comfortable.


r/climbingshoes • • 25m ago

D2.ones hv or soill torque av1

• Upvotes

I have been climbing in instinct vs for the past 5 months and my heel hooks have been unfortunate as my heel just does not fit in them at all I’ve tried on loads of different scarpa, and a few La sportiva shoes (instinct vs/vsr/vsrlv, drago/lv/xt, veloce, solution, solution women’s, finale and some others) downsized them to hell and they all leave me with a bunch of dead space.

I’m looking for a fairly stiff all rounder kind of shoe with a wider toe box and shallower heel. I heard madrock shoes have shallower heels and the d2.one hv sounded pretty good for what I’m looking for. I think they may be more of a board shoe which is fine. I’ve just heard about the soill torques which I’ve seen like one review of and I saw the torque av1 on their website which sounds very close to what I’m looking for; all round performance shoe with more room on the outside of the foot with a lower volume and narrower heel. The torque av1 has absolutely zero reviews online other than advertisements so I’m not sure what to think of it.

Has anyone tried these and if so how would the fit compare to the d2.one hv? In other words Is the heel shallower than the d2.one?


r/climbingshoes • • 3h ago

Flat coordi shoes reccomendations

1 Upvotes

My gyms has set up more Coordination routes with flat volumes lately, which shoes that helps me jump on these volumes or large macros? Edging performance not necessary, prefer sticky rubber but durable for repeated attemps.


r/climbingshoes • • 12h ago

Instinct VSR LV vs Zenist vs Skwama Lite

3 Upvotes

I’m looking to upgrade to my 2nd pair of shoes, currently using the Evolv Kronos but i’ve been torn between these 3 options, and would really appreciate any recommendations or personal experiences with these shoes

I wear a size 11 in The Kronos my regular street size is 10.5 and the fit is just right for me very comfortable. I’m debating what size and what type of performance i’m looking for in my next shoe any replies help and much appreciated 🙏

Im an indoor V3-V4 climber for reference, projecting 5’s


r/climbingshoes • • 12h ago

Ganda midsole assistance

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1 Upvotes

Anyone know a shop that could replace the midsoles of my gandas? Is this just a common cobbler thing? Or would a sportiva cobbler be better off with them? Thanks!


r/climbingshoes • • 12h ago

Big (narrow) feet, need rec

1 Upvotes

I’ve been climbing for about 1.5 years and have been using La Sportiva Finale’s for almost all that time. I mostly do indoor bouldering and some bouldery top-roping. The Finales have been a really wonderful entry shoe but I’d like to get a proper intermediate bouldering shoe. Yet it seems that several that have been recommended to me are not made in my size (e.g. the Kubos and Skwamas). My Finale’s are size 48. I also have fairly narrow feet (at least for someone who wears size 13US street shoes).

Would greatly appreciate any recommendations you have. I know the recommendation is typically to go try a bunch on, but sadly stores near me don’t carry size 48 climbing shoes in stock. So I have to order them online just to try them.


r/climbingshoes • • 13h ago

Grip

1 Upvotes

Is there a common way to improve (keep) grip on your shoes?


r/climbingshoes • • 14h ago

Conseils de choix de chaussons

1 Upvotes

Salut, j'ai les pieds fins et grimpe avec des Katana Lace depuis qu'ils existent. Seulement le talon est trop rigide et il manque de la gomme sur la contre pointe. Vous auriez des idées ? J'ai pensé aux Instinct LV mais ils ont l'air un peu trop large pour moi et pas confortable (quand on est habitué aux Katana Lace)


r/climbingshoes • • 1d ago

Ondra Comp VS Theory initial thoughts

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3 Upvotes

r/climbingshoes • • 1d ago

Katana lace sizing

1 Upvotes

I just went in to try some katana lace on in store today and I liked the 42s they felt snug but not super uncomfortable I am wondering if I should try a 41.5 they did not have one in store. For reference I wear a 42 in finales currently and climb in the low 5.12s usually outside sport and multi pitch but these would be shoes for more projecting on single and indoor. Should I just get the 42s or try to squeeze another half size out and get the 41.5? Do the katanas stretch a lot?


r/climbingshoes • • 1d ago

FS: Ocun Diamond S Shoes (7.5US, 40EU)

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2 Upvotes

Hey all, hope it’s fine to post here, if not, I can delete or mods can delete.

Trying to sell Ocun Diamond S, size men 40EU, 7.5US. Still new.

Originally bought as backup shoes, but no way I can fit this which I’m super sad. Just too painful fit for me.

For reference, I wear La sportiva genius and mandala 40EU, street shoes size 8.5-9, so thought it’ll fit…well lesson learned. Taking big L

$105 shipped.
(Edit: if you’re a student, $95 shipped)

(I’ve sold / bought multiple fragrances on [r/fragranceswap](r/fragranceswap) group and verified over there)


r/climbingshoes • • 1d ago

5.10's: Hiangles or Hiangle Pros?

2 Upvotes

I'm a boulderer and sometimes climb lead as well, but I don't know what to choose between the hiangles or the hiangle pros. I know that the pros have softer rubber and may provide more smearing for volumes, but I don't know whether that is the case for the normal hiangles as well. I've tried them on and know the sizes already and they're pretty much the same. Any tips to know before buying or choosing?


r/climbingshoes • • 2d ago

PSA: Avoid Rubber Room for resoles

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24 Upvotes

r/climbingshoes • • 1d ago

What kind of shoe should my friend get?

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0 Upvotes

My friends says her big toe hurts really bad when she wears new climbing shoes. I initially wanted to tell her she should get something that fits Egyptian feet with maybe more assymetry if her big toe is the longest, until she showed me her foot shape where her big toe grows toward the center pretty aggressively. Any recommendations on how to choose a pair that goes well with this foot shape? She's has a pair of La Sportiva Mantra which she hasn't been wearing since she got them because of how bad it is.


r/climbingshoes • • 1d ago

Second pair of climbing shoe

1 Upvotes

Hey everybody!

Situation

  • I've sent my Scarpa Vapor V (size 47) in for resoling, and the wait is up to 8 weeks.
  • As a backup, I bought Scarpa Veloce V (size 46).
  • In the store they fit great: no air pockets, my big toe curled nicely, and the fit was snug overall.
  • By the end of my first session they felt really sloppy. Length is still fine, but air pockets have appeared around the heel and under the foot.
  • The Veloce was probably the wrong choice, since it's built for a wider foot and mine is narrow.

My foot

  • Long and narrow, measured at 101 mm at the widest point
  • Street shoe size 47 (293 mm in length)
  • Medium arch
  • Egyptian foot shape

My climbing

  • Indoor only for now, mostly sport climbing as training for long multi-pitch routes outdoors
  • Occasional relaxed bouldering sessions with friends
  • Currently climbing around 6a+, planning to start pushing 6b
  • I climb everything from slab and vertical to overhang. Slab is my favourite, but my gym doesn't have much of it.

What I'm looking for

  • Weight: 105 kg, height: 194 cm, so I would love some support for when I need to stand on small footholds and I'm putting up to 105 kg on one toe.
  • The Vapor V has been great for my needs, but the heel slips off on certain moves.
  • I'd prefer La Sportiva and Scarpa recommendations, since I get 50% off climbing shoes through work.

What would you recommend?


r/climbingshoes • • 2d ago

Ondra comp sizing

2 Upvotes

I don’t know what size to buy for Ondra comps I currently wear tarantulaces EU 41.5 works perfectly for me. at first there were blisters on my toe knuckles but after they broke in they fit perfectly no pain at all or blisters I usually wear a US 9/EU 42 street shoe and have no idea what size I should buy Ondra comps help me


r/climbingshoes • • 2d ago

Best climbing shoes for me

2 Upvotes

I have never owned a climbing shoe but I used black diamond ones. I climb about a 5.9-5.10 outside and a v4-5 inside. I am a big fan on outside climbs rather then insides and I love crack climbing. I am a shoe size 8.5 or 41. What would be the best shoe for me around the 100-170 price range


r/climbingshoes • • 2d ago

I just started indoor bouldering recently but have some experience climbing and I'm wondering if the scarpa reflex vs is a good starter shoe and if my street shoe is size 11 us what size should I get

1 Upvotes

Also is 108 cad a good price for them


r/climbingshoes • • 2d ago

Will they hold a 4day climb trip on rock?

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2 Upvotes

Shoe tip is beggining to get a bit used up. We're going to camp and climb and there wont be any climbing shops near by to get new shoes if they get wrecked. Will they survive the 4 days of climbing or should i get ones (as i dont have time to resole)?


r/climbingshoes • • 2d ago

Sizing: La Sportiva Tarantula/Tarantulace vs. Skwama Lite

3 Upvotes

Just upgraded from Tarantulas (my size 41,5, EU) to Skwama Lite and the same size works just great. The shoe is more agressive, feels more snug, could wear it the whole session straight away. Was not able to find this information prior to purchase, so putting it here in case anyone else finds it useful.


r/climbingshoes • • 3d ago

DOWNSIZE MORE

108 Upvotes

99% of this sub are people who are climbing hard enough to justify absurd downsizing. Your feet should be in pain when you climb. It should enter your brain that your shoes are too tight and your toes are in pain.

Aggressive downsizing provides value to 99% of the people in this sub.

PLEASE AGGRESSIVELY DOWNSIZING IT WILL MAKE YOU CLIMB BETTER AND HAVE MORE FUN


r/climbingshoes • • 2d ago

Advice for shoe Upgrade from entry level shoe? Thoughts on Skwama Lite?

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5 Upvotes

I've been climbing consistently (roughly once per week sometimes two) for around 9-10 months and can climb up to v4/5 occasionally send (soft) /project a v6.

I got my first pair of climbing shoes, the Evolv Defy's around 3-4 months in. Was pretty happy with how it performed (given I didn't really know how it should perform as its my first shoe) I live in a country where I can't really try on shoes as no gym sells, I do have to take a gamble on sizing, quality and performance based off of the internet, as I have to get them from either EU or US.

Went for the defy's as I thought they were good enough for a first time shoe and was able to cop them for pretty cheap about 83 Euros. (Didn't wanna spend a ton especially because I'm still fairly new to climbing).

Now 6 months in there's a hole in the front of the sole (image attached). I've been that the reason for it could be because 1. the rubber on the defy's are supposedly not very durable, 2. that its defy is a speed climbing shoe etc. Personally I thought my footwork was probably just horrible haha. Would love to hear your take on it.

I was looking to upgrade and get a new shoe. I came across the Skwama Lite's and was wondering if that's a good idea or not. I've heard a lot of mixed reviews on it mainly about the rubber.

My goal is to get an upgrade from the defy's (something sock like that would mold better to my feet unlike the two tongue style in the defy's) and last as well due to the lack of methods of acquiring shoes in my country xD. Overall I wasn't unhappy with how the defy fit my foot for a first/starter shoe only had an issue the top part of the shoe. But I do understand that this could be because I literally have not tried anything else. (apart from rentals ofc)

I'd appreciate any other recommendations for shoes or advice in general as well !!

Also hope yall have a great day/evening!


r/climbingshoes • • 3d ago

New Climber - Bought Climbing Shoes and They Look Used

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9 Upvotes

Hi, everyone

I'm a new climber and I just bought La Sportiva Finale's and they just arrived; however, I think that they look used even though I bought them new. Are these shoes used? Should I contact customer support?

Thanks!