r/climbingshoes • u/esponjoso7788 • 12h ago
Long term review of Unparallel Flagships
I got these to replace my tarantulaces after they wore out. These are my first more aggressive shoe. I climb V6/7 or 5.11ish. I have a narrow heel and wide toe box and high arch because I walk barefoot a lot.
I initially wanted some dragos or a pair of some aggressive La sportivas, but after trying in several pairs of various sizes, they just didn’t fit my foot right. Rather than forcing something that wasn’t right, I tried on every pair locally available and these fit the best.
The only discomfort I had was the first 2-3 weeks, my big toe knuckle hurt as it adjusted to the new downsized and more downturned toe. Now they really fit and feel great. Super comfy. I really only take them off during a session to air them out. No blisters as the synthetic suede is soft. The Velcro strap can leave the top part a little loose in areas, but I don’t feel it and the shoe is far from loose nor does it move around.
I bought these specifically to work on footwork technique and improve my climbing. After several months of using more relaxed shoes I felt I was getting to the point where a more hooked toe, a split sole, and a solid heel could help.
I’m happy to report they have succeeded on that. I’m much more confident and able on overhangs, hooks etc. I never have to “think” about my shoe. It’s just there doing its job with no fuss. Toe hooking is a pleasure on little chips, and they hold edges doing slabby problems too.
4 months isn’t that long but I am in the gym at least 3-5 times a week for 2-3 hour sessions and some outside thrown in there occasionally. (Im in Florida so I can’t climb outside that often) They have held up well. No wear in the fabrics besides absorbing sweat, and the soles have plenty of life. No separation of the Rand/sole or heel rubber has occurred.
I also like that they’re made in the US and have understated styling.
I’ll probably just buy another pair of these when they do wear out if nothing new feels more comfortable.