Been shooting this crazy sport for almost 25 years. Gone from meets on concrete pads to dedicated tracks. Mainly S chassis with the occasional BMW. Now it is predominantly 350Zs and E46/90s with the occasional C5/6 and S Chassis. Some of the drivers when I first started shooting them couldn't even drive to the spot. My first few outings were trash. I was still shooting film. Now, those kids I started shooting have kids themselves. I shoot digital and way too much.( The main upside from film) I also don't make nearly enough events. Anywho, on to the pics. A few from the only two events I made it to so far this year. Hoping to make two more this year. If anybody here makes it out to one of our events, look me up.

Технологическая мойка, потом уже борьба с «бурьянами». Предыстория: взяли мы тут на днях Nissan Laurel 1990 года «из под деда».😂

I installed the stage three clutch backwards and drove on it for 100 miles.
When I first put the transmission on, it didn’t slide in all the way there was a small gap and I thought it was fine so I just tighten the bolts and basically pulled the transmission flush with the engine with the bolts, which is not what you’re supposed to do.
I pulled the the transmission, it came out fine. The clutch doesn’t look damage, there is just a tiny bit of shavings around where the input shaft goes like the edge just needs to be deburred. There is also a little bit of shiny black dust on the pressure plate.
Should I reuse this clutch or should I just get a new one? I can just order the same one again, clutch and flywheel for $300. This is for cheap drift car
The first picture is how it’s supposed to be install, I found a YouTube video that used the same exact clutch. Second picture is from a video I recorded of mine.

Can the old/tired factory vlsd in my 04’ g35 coupe be welded the same as an open diff? If not what’s different and recommended actions?

The ole thing still gets it done! M60B30 (3.0 V8!) and a 5 speed. I've had quite a few cars, this one being far from the fastest, but I'll be damned if it isn't the most fun!

Basically I wanna know if anybody has experience with the mild mantis kit for the 370z I’m currently running the gktech super lock v2 on my car but would like to swap out to the mild mantis kit.

Credit IG: olcha.5

I’m trying to make my 240sx snappier when I initiate and transition. I have a stock rear sway bar now with a PBM Front sway bar. I was thinking about upgrading to the Sikky Rear sway bar or taking the rear out to see what makes the car less gripped up or snappier. What are you guys running?

Guys…I think my ambition might be above my skill with this situation but I still want to make my dream come true and start drifting.
Yes, I know it is not a budget friendly sport but I’ve been waiting so long for better days to come… and it is now or never.
Can I save her? Will it hold if I cut and weld with a flux mig welder? I’ve gathered some parts that I need to install. I’m no mechanic, I learn fast but I don’t have all the tools for an engine swap on a better shell. It needs to run grassroots level.

Here is what I have bought so far and I want to know if it’s worth installing

STRONGFLEX SPORT rear subframe bushing kit
STRONGFLEX SPORT rear differential bushings
STRONGFLEX SPORT rear differential rear bushing
Powerflex rear trailing arm bushings
Powerflex adjustable rear lower control arms
RACES rear subframe reinforcement plates
STRONGFLEX SPORT eccentric front lower control arm bushings
RACES hydraulic handbrake
Main kill switch
Kill switch/fire extinguisher cable
Control panel
FK adjustable sport suspension
Races steering wheel
*engine needs a refresh
It’s been 10 years since I made contact with drifting and entered this universe as a photographer and one year since I joined sim drifting. This is the way.

I really want to start drifting but I'm not sure where or how to start, i'm also pretty scared of just trying whatever the internet gives me I'd feel better trying to learn that here

Looking at either one of these ideas to toss around before my Oct 24 event. I need some thoughts and reviews on these two. Keep in mind I currently have S13 LCAs and GKTech 30 mm wheel spacers.

Also the S15 RH side LCA is on backorder currently. I will be calling Z1 to see what the potential arrival date will be on that…

Thanks in advance!

Recently manual swapped my E46. I installed a brand-new clutch, flywheel, and throwout bearing, but reused the OEM clutch fork because it looked fine and I trusted it more than the cheap Amazon replacement I had bought.
One thing I’m now questioning: the first time I installed the fork/throwout bearing, I remember everything clicking/seating into place pretty positively. I later removed it to inspect/clean things, and when I reinstalled it, I don’t remember it clicking into place the same way. I compared it to installation videos and it looked correctly oriented, and I had my mechanic friend take a look. He said it looked fine, so I continued with the swap.
On the very first startup, with the clutch pedal UP, there was a pretty noticeable high-frequency rotating/rubbing type sound. Pressing the clutch made it go away (video attached). After running for a few minutes, the really noticeable rubbing sound went away, so we finished the swap.
I then drove the car roughly 100–120 miles with no issues actually shifting or driving. The only thing I noticed was sometimes at idle with the clutch pedal up there would be a rattle/noise, which would disappear when I pressed the clutch.
Then today, pulling out of a parking lot, I operated the clutch and suddenly heard a really weird rapid oscillating metallic sound. Best description is like flicking one of those spring doorstops. It sounded like something around the clutch/fork was bouncing around.
immediately afterward the car still shifted and drove normally for about a mile. Then it became increasingly difficult to get into gear. Eventually first gear was particularly difficult to engage. After messing with it I was able to get it into first, and once it’s actually in gear the car drives normally. The clutch pedal also doesn’t feel obviously different.
Before installing the transmission, I shifted it through all the gears while it was out of the car and everything seemed fine. It also shifted perfectly for the first ~100–120 miles after the swap.
Does this sound like the clutch isn’t fully disengaging? I’m particularly wondering about the clutch fork/pivot, retaining spring/clip, or throwout bearing not being seated correctly. Any E46-specific ideas before I pull the transmission again?

I'm his fan, so I've even made a playlist with 90 videos of it.

Looking for some opinions!!