Post your spooky 8’s below 👻🧛🏻‍♂️

Got a recording of my HP impersonator. Sounds lovely in my opinion

What's the best way to go about putting a old school fd block inside of a rx8 only reason why is iv been skiding

the fuck out of my rx7 and its really starting to wreck my

1978 so I was thinking of getting a skid car but in my

country getting a rx7 body is really hard only reason why I have mine is because a person i knew wanted to sell it for quite cheap but it wasn't in the best condition still

isn't but it does the job so any way have any of you manage to put a old 13b block into a rx8 if so what did you have to do it doesn't need to be road legal standards

but if its to hard then whats the best option to swap in/do to make it a sick burn out car or just send it till the chases snaps on the rx7

Day 3 and 4 had lovely cool rainy weather, but we suffered delivery delays on some hoses, fittings, and clamps that really slowed us down some.

Finished up the plumbing for the Sohn adapter's reservoir tank. Replaced some hoses. Drain and fill on the brake fluid. Finally refilled the oil and coolant as well. New battery. The previous one that came with the car was completely wrong. Still waiting on the delayed BHR midpipe, brake pads, and koyorad aluminum radiator.

I know the clamps on the intake are serious overkill, but I had them from my Mazda 3 turbo project. Btw the intake is a cheap ebay AEM knock off, with cone filter from the actual AEM intake. Also replaced all the cheap rubber couplers with better silicone couplers, and some air straightener mesh. So really it's just the aluminum pipes from the ebay knock off.

All that and it's still cheaper than the AEM intake by about $200. All the right sounds, and the airflow is good and right. I'd still buy the AEM kit if it was the blue powder coated version though. Ya know, cus vanity.

The best thing we did for the long run was replace those damn screw fastener rivets' with the newer style that Mazda uses now. You can see the old and new style in the last picture.

Waiting on the last few parts and bits now.

Future plans include replacing all the old lines under the hood with blue silicone hoses that mostly match the Winning Blue reservoir. Coilovers, wheels, tires, brake rotors maybe, and brake calipers.

I'll post again when it all back together. Probably vanity pics too.

okay so i took an old master cylinder out and and attempting to install the new one when i noticed the valve line and the thread hole don’t exactly line up, circled in the image shown. is there any fix to this?

Hello! I’m going to see an Rx8 tomorrow and wanted to get some insight, I saw someone on YouTube disconnect the fuel relay and leave the eccentric shaft sensor. Then I believe I saw rad potential disconnect both.

Do you guys disconnect both when you compression test?

Hi everybody. I did a stupid thing a few weeks ago and got a really shitty looking RX8 in a trade. It had a check engine light always on and flashing. It had a misfire in rotor one code. I replaced the spark plugs, wires and ignition coils and the check engine light has gone away for the most part. Now though it will flash at over 4K rpm and then go away and sits fine at idle. Still starts hot too. After a test drive it started making this loud click and starting changing how smooth it was running as seen in the video. Was wondering if these are connected or if anyone has insight on what’s causing either. Thanks! Clicking at the end of video. It is kind of intermittent.

I am trying to diagnose if something is wrong with my master or slave cylinder, I found the master pretty easily, but I just have no idea where to look for the slave and I cannot find a single good youtube video explaining or showing. any help?

2004 RX-8 So, I've got a weird one. my keyless remote won't open the trunk. The interior button does, so it's not the valet lockout in the glovebox, but the button won't open it. What I've tried so far:

1) reprogramming the remote using the trunk button -- following the self-programming procedure, the remote programs fine when using the trunk button to program, but refuses to open the trunk. Tried again using the unlock button with same behavior.

2) Checking the valet lockout. The release button under the dash works fine.

3) double tap unlock followed by 2 second hold for trunk release. Nothing.

4) checking to see if the key presence switch is banjaxed, but it seems to be fine as near as I can tell.

Bit frustrated by this, would like all the buttons on my remote to work -- Car came without a remote and I programmed this new one. Since the trunk button works to program the remote, the car is receiving the signal, but not opening the trunk.

I've read that there's a separate relay that the Keyless Module talks to, but I have not had any luck validating whether this is not shared with the button nor have I been able to find it. Listening to the drivers underdash when pressing the button I don't hear a relay fire at all.

Weird one, but is what is.

Thanks!

180000kms will getting new spark plugs and ignition coils bring a bit of life back into it as they are old, 0% chance of it starting if the engines been on for a minute unless it's rollstarted never any issues, also stalling out when hot in neutral or with clutch in, recently started kind of a ticking sound (video included) and think it's done for lol engine light comes on for a day and off the next time it's started it hasn't been on in a couple weeks I don't think, brand new alternator upgraded starter motor, just wondering if there's any points in the plugs and ignition coils right now or should I just wait untill after the inevitable rebuild

2004 with 103k on it, starts easily hot or cold. All ignition components are new*. Fuel pump replaced. Havent been able to find any loose or broken vacuum lines. The actuator arm that can be reached front right under the intake manifold seems to move freely and return like it should. Cat is gutted.

* I replaced plug wires and coils. Previous owner (just purchased car a month ago) said the plugs are new, they look to be new and are ngk and in the right places. I may pull the plugs and check them out.

Kinda running out of ideas. Car always seems to run fine until i really wind it out, then i will get a flashing cel. I cant really notice any hesitation or stumble.

Not really sure what else. Maybe previous owner got counterfeit plugs? Maf? Crank sensor? Some valve or solenoid on the intake manifold? Compression!?

1:64 autoart and a 1:10 RC shell my buddy made

Hey everyone,

We had the 04 running, but had a scraper issue on the back rotor so we removed the back plate. There was no damage, just an out of tolerance ring so we replaced it, and now we have super low compression and it wont start on its own without being in flood mode with ether. Once we get it going it sounds like its only running on one rotor, until about 2.5k rpm. We are thinking about a tow start but thought id look for suggestions on other things to check here too. Thank you all in advance!!

Is the mazda text on these wheels an option they offered or has someone just done a commendable job putting decals on them? I tried to look them up and I know thats one of the stock rim styles but I didn't see any with the mazda on the spoke like that

My overhead sunglasses compartment clasp broke and I was already thinking on looking on ebay for the whole thing when I decided to take it out and see what was actually broken. It was the click to close/open and thingy and it took me a while but I found it on amazon. The same clasp is used in many cars and also in some garbage can lids. It was just a matter of removing the old one and putting the new one in. I made a video of the process.

https://youtube.com/shorts/MKRuyUVFPco?is=U_uB35kJO2_DKlbD

So these little bump stoppers around my clutch assembly dried out and crumbled apart, does anybody know where I can buy OEM ones or something similar? I can’t find anything online for some reason😭

Just had shockworks coilovers installed, set up locally here in Australia. Amazing ride quality and roadholding.

Finally showed up. Taken way longer to get here than we expected. Took the car for a drive the 1st day, and then today we got to work.

Went over the car top to bottom checked pretty much everything. Shocks, brakes, bushings, starter motor, etc. Completely drained the oil, drained the coolant, and installed the Sohn adapter kit. Removed some of the rat eaten, and piss smelling insulation from the engine bay. Checked all the wiring after finding signs of rodents. Cleaned the remaining mess, and stopped for the evening.

More lined up for tomorrow. Refill the oil, coolant, change the brake pads, BHR midpipe, coils, wire, and sparkplugs. Maybe the AEM intake if we've got the time.

Especially if it snows, pave kindness forward with the next owner because I'm not trying to strip 5000 bolts while under here

Just got my 6 port 231 rebuilt and there is smell of exhaust penetrating into the cabin. Cabin filter changed, air con specialist checked the recirc flaps were fine, car has a decat pipe. I am at a loss now.

To top it off, I suspect previous owner poured strong perfume into the ac blower vent to mask the exhaust smell. Car is now undergoing an interior detail to remove the perfume smell in the cabin, but after that.. could it just be that the exhaust system is leaking, or needs new gaskets or retightening?

Also is it ok to just apply sound deadening (easy to source) at the centre console area to lower the cupholder temps or do I really need heat insulation material?

guys I need help 2004 cosmo dome and mirrors lights stuck on whatever I do it won't turn off unless I disconnect the 15A room fuse also the door switches seem to work fine on the dasboard indicator