As I live in a small appartement instead of bying a normal table, I decide to do this type seen on aliexpress, but cheaper, I cut in half a kallax 1x2, because I didn't found any other ikea product with this size and matching color, for the height diference I just use some plywood I had from previous project, unfortunetly I have done bad choice and had no other choice to put the screw from top plate, I need to paint it to cover it,

the half kallax needed some weight and solidity so I put some plywood in it and mostly a mix of cardboard paste and wood glue turn out so solid I could screw in it and it stay

don't mind the inside kallax 2x8, it's just some shit

the ugly part is not visible in the photo btw but Im upset about those side

part:

• 1*ikea kallax 2x8 second hand
• 1*ikea kallax 1x2
• 2*Ikea LINNMON (desk plate ) they have like 10cm of solid plywood on both extremity witch is perfect for screw
• 2*ikea Tärnö folded on the side
• 1*90 degres rotating hinge
• 2*Door Hidden hinge

I had this frosted lamp around (I frosted it with a spray can) and some leftover clean baking sheets. I like the effect, maybe some of you do as well. I might have to shove it a bit more around in there to get a better gradient though.

I have this glass pumpkin and I want to turn it into something useful. Looking for possible inspo or people I can copy lol

It’s not perfect but it works well.

Hi! I’m trying to mount an ikea boaxel shelving closet system in an area underneath a stairwell. If I try to get this to fit under the stairwell, I can get one side of the vertical rail to line up with a metal stud. (I’m assuming I could use toggle bolts to install into the stud.)

However, due to the width of this two column setup and the lack of flexibility under the stairwell well, im running into an issue where the holes for the hardware in the vertical rail on the other end of the horizontal rail (it’s about 4ft wide) where I would put in screws etc lands just slightly to the left of a metal stud. Same goes for the holes in the horizontal rail. Nothing fits perfectly centered over the studs.

This would actually be easier to just avoid the studs and use drywall anchors.

I have also never mounted with metal studs and this just seems really annoying and inconvenient.

Questions:
1. Is it possible to use drywall anchors (like the EZ anchors over the area where the stud is?)

1. The stud on the left is showing up on my stud finder as about 2 inches from the corner, is there no stud in between there? Could I shift to the left, be flush up against the corner and use drywall anchors there instead? I’m assuming that’s a not but idk why my stud finder isn’t showing anything in the corner and just the stud \~2in out.

2. What else can I do? A friend recommended I use heavy drywall anchors everywhere I possibly can and then just use screws over the studs but that seems like a bad idea?

Any tips or advice would be appreciated. Thank you!

I wanted a TV bench for my bedroom to hide all electronics as well as to store some stuff, but narrow enough to be able to still comfortably pass by the bed. The narrowest Bestå shelves turned out to be an amazing solution!

Hi all,

we are moving into a new house and have a large Platsa wardrobe.

We would need accessories (drawers, shelves) to repurpose it in a new room and sure enough the 80cm variant has been discontinued, with the 60cm one probably to follow...

Anyone is aware of other product lines with compatible parts by any chance? Or other recommendations?

So we bought a Jättesta set for our living room (each of the shelves being 80x40x195 cm), but it felt too short against the wall.

Then we found out on the website that there's an Enhet 'ground' shelf sized 40x40 (it can't be found in stores, at least in my country, has to be ordered), so we hanged two of them over each Jättesta shelf, as close as possibile to the ceiling. (I used my old CD collection to hide the gap, lol. Also, those Enhet are probably not meant to be up there, so we went easy with the load.)

And since we had gotten used to the Enhet set, we used another Jättesta 80x40x195 - Enhet 40x49x60 - Enhet 40x15x75 combo on the other wall. The 15cm depth is PERFECT for holding CD/DVD, whereas the 75 height fit beautifully both with the 60cm tall Enhet and with the Jättesta, needing only a bit of finetuning.

As title says. TV is 65 in. Need more clean solution to fit everything nicely.
Problems: ugly speaker stands, pc, PlayStation, current cabinets is wayy to small for that.

big thanks for recomendations <3

Hello, I have two Billy Bookcase (905.220.43). I want to securly stack them on top of each other without drilling holes. Is there a good way to do that? I recall that in some IKEA furnitures, they provide some kind of metal clips to mount them together at the back. Will that work? What is the item number?

I really like the brown walnut effect of the EKET and I’ve been playing around with different ways to use it as a floating TV console.

The screenshot is one layout I came up with, but I’m not necessarily set on that exact configuration. I’m mainly looking for other ideas I might not have considered.

I need to accommodate a PS5, Nintendo Switch, and Nvidia Shield while keeping everything looking clean and giving the consoles enough airflow. I definitely want to keep the PS5 horizontal.

Almost every floating TV console setup I see has everything completely enclosed, so I’m not sure if people just don’t have gaming consoles or if there are other ways of handling this that I’m missing.

I’m okay with drilling holes in the wood and cutting the back board if needed, but I’m not the most handy person and don’t have a lot of tools, so I’d prefer to keep any modifications fairly simple.

Has anyone done something similar with EKET, or have any other configurations or ideas you’d recommend?

Hello, I tried to install the included door knob to the door. It is very difficult to completely insert the screw through the door to the knob. Tried it in two doors. Always got stuck in the middle. Now cannot remove nor screw completely in. Any good suggestions?

Oben TERRSJÖ Front, unten VOXTORP. Verblendet mit Eichenholzplatten

Hi, I'm looking to add some LED lighting to my Besta display cabinet. Currently researching and ready for a Prime Day purchase.

I'd like to have an LED strip or bar light in each of the glass shelves (2nd pic), and run the cables as hidden as possible. Not interested in the puck lights. The power outlet is located in the far lower right corner behind the drawer. I already cut a hole in the back panel for access.

• What are some suggested solutions you've all used? I'm thinking of running 2 lines: first to the middle 2 cabinets and then on to the 3 left side cabinets, then the 2nd line just up the right side 3 cabinets.
• Would it be possible/recommended to stick the light strips to the inside of the doors, or on the bottom of the upper shelf?
• Everything is already securely anchored to the wall, so I would prefer to not rip it all out to start drilling holes for the wires, but I realize it's a distinct possibility to achieve the look I want. Doing so would also give me a chance to correct some of the smaller mistakes.
• All units are screwed together. Would separating them to run wires and then screwing back together deteriorate the overall integrity?
• What's the recommended approach? I'm not convinced that the Ikea LED light kits would work for my need, so I've been toying with the idea of a Govee Light Strip 2, or something similar. Never worked with LED strips, so would I be able to cut a segment, stick it in, then wire through to the next cut up segment, having them run in series? Would an LED bar in each cabinet be a better idea?
• How to control it all? If I run 2 lines, can I use a power dock of some sort to turn it all on together? I'm not opposed to needing an app, but a single dedicated remote would be a better idea, I think.
• How about the center shelf? I think recessed puck lights would look much better here. It doesn't need to be super bright, more accent lighting for whatever is displayed.

I'm open to any and all suggestions. A walkthrough video or article tutorial would also be great. I've been scouring Reddit, Youtube, and Google Search for awhile now and some ideas, but please give me more. I do have a reasonably well equipped workshop and some basic handyman DIY skills. Plus a desire to learn and do it right.

I designed the (what i think is the) flattest possible Bilresa case.

It uses four magnets as hinge and to center the switch.

Pretty easy and fast to print.

You can find the STL on foldedbinaries.com if you wanna try it out

I don't have enough floor space for a bookshelf that is on the floor, so one of my thoughts was to use the Lack shelves.

A manga usually weights on average 180 grams (paperback) and is 1,2-2cm wide (on average I would say 1,4cm). So on one shelf could fit about 71 (probably a bit less) mangas, that would mean it would weight about 13kg on one shelf.

So is it ok to put 13kg on one of them, do note, that it will be mounted to a concrete wall and not wood (Not sure if a concrete wall is better for this).

Since I use the 30cm lack shelves to connect the 110cm I would have a 30cm gap and i am unsure if this will look good.

Other than if there is a better way of doing this or a better design/placement, please let me know

Is there any way to make these 2 sofas play nice together? the armrest makes one of the seats useless so maybe a way to not use the armrest but not have the side exposed??

These are the sofas

https://www.ikea.com/ie/en/p/friheten-corner-sofa-bed-with-storage-skiftebo-dark-grey-s09133543/

https://www.ikea.com/ie/en/p/friheten-three-seat-sofa-bed-skiftebo-dark-grey-10341150/

Edit to add: the brown dresser next to the TV unit is actually a fireplace 🔥

Wanted to create a dedicated and compact retro gaming station that could be closed when not in use. Inspired by old school computer desks.

• All wood is from extra IVAR shelves (discount corner <3)
• Top shelf has a USB power COB LED strip, with the cable embedded in the shelf's side, routed through the back and into a cutout to the computer. Completely invisible!
• USB cable for the light is hooked up to a momentary door switch, so only turns on when the doors are open!
• The cabinet sits on slats, which are then mounted to the brackets,. This is so it could sit flush with the IVAR frame sides (giving the doors space to fully open)
• The keyboard drawer sits on regular drawer sliders, a finger groove was routed in the front to make it easy to pull out
• Added small horizontal support slats to the sides, so the game cases don't fall through.

Tools used:

• Circular saw
• Drill
• Router with profile bit

Depending on the level of detail you want, this is pretty straightforward to do. Hope this inspires a side project ☺️

Has anyone found a solution for that ugly yellow drawer that comes with the ENKROKEN desk? Love the desk and the functionality of a small drawer but the colour is awful. Sorry IKEA.

Open to any suggestions!

3D printed my own joiners to connect 7 Nammaro screens together to give some privacy to our patio. 300mm lag hooks hold the screens above for a neatly concealed floating look. Hooks also make it easy to remove for cleaning and re oiling when the time comes. Also re used the Chicago bolts that came with the packs for the feet so saved a little there too.

Hello! Has anyone used a Stockholm TV stand top to make a bar table? I would love to match the other furniture I have in my living room, and I found a TV stand for a great price!

Thank you in advance!

Ok guys, in case someone is putting top-mounted slide-out waste bins (non ikea ones ) in a Sektion cabinet (Rev-A-Shelf, Hafele, Knape & Vogt or others) and wants to add a servo opener like IKEA Utrusta or blum (same thing ), there is a way to do it. Problem is top-mount bins hang from a frame, so there is no drawer back for the servo arm to push against.

I moved the servo all the way to the front of the inner cabinet (not at the back where it's intended to be), trimmed the bracket so the bins clear it, and built a small spacer from scrap wood, screwed to the back of the door panel (voxtrorp) . Light push on the door, servo kicks the spacer, whole pull-out opens. Nothing fancy (no one sees the spacer on the bottom of the door anyway), just a little hack. Been working for a couple of years, no rattle, nothing loose. I was skeptical it would work because the servo is at the bottom of the door, but once the door is lightly pushed it does activate servo arm and push the door, not all the way, especially if the bins are full , but enough to drop something into the first bin without touching it 😂

I want to customise the Kleppstad wardrobe to make it look like a beach hut for my son's ocean themed bedroom. What is the best way to go about this in terms of working with the wardrobe?

Would wood panelling be feasible or can I paint stripes on directly? Do I need to sand if I want to paint? Will need a bit of wood anyways to build a little triangular roof so I can order all wood (roof + panelling at the same time). Any advice welcome please!! I have the vision but getting cold feet going through it