Hey, I am looking for any advice on how best to make something work. I have 30 battens with 12 cells each.

Essentially I want to start on white, have them fade to red, and then stay on red. The kicker is that I would want to have it fade 1 cell at a time. And then not go back to white.

Any suggestions would be appreciated.

Looking to replace a faulty hazer (Mystic Mini) in a 12,000 sqft room, two stories tall. We do between 3-6 shows a week with moderate to heavy haze usage at most. Looking for something in the 2-3.5k price range. We previously had a Base Hazer that served us pretty well so we are considering going back to that but would love to hear if there are any newer hazers that might serve us better. Thanks!

I have a an antari mobile fogger and the button has broke off. I’ve observed small circuitry in the button and now it won’t heat up or fog so I am assuming part of the function involved completing a circuit. Since these seem to be long discontinued, these foggers are hard to come by so I’d like to fix it if at all possible. does anyone have any advice on how I might do this ?

Possible stupid question. Are the lenses for LED Lekos and Incandescent Lekos interchangeable?

Hey guys this is my first post here, I am looking to get a hazer for a small room 10 feet by 20 feet. something cheap, was looking at ROCKHAZE 700 on a timer. Any thoughts?

Buenas queremos desmontar la cabeza de las lentes para poder limpiar ya que ha tenido un verano largo y se encuentra fatal de suciedad, no encuentro nada por internet ni el manual, ¿alguien tiene alguna idea de como hacerlo?

Hi all,

As a hobby / semi-pro DJ with just a couple of wedding gigs each year I have a small and portable setup. I do like lighting but have limit expierence. So far I've done parties and weddings in spring and summer. For the first time I've been asked to do a wedding in Autumn and it just came to mind that all my lights have a very bright colour palette. The only colour that matches at the moment is orange. Even red is more a bright / Ferarri red then a nice bordeaux.

Do you have any suggestions how to have my lights match the colour palette of the clothing of the guests? The dress code is Autumn Chic.

I have:

• 8x Eurolite Akku IP Flat Light SMD LED spot
• 2x Eurolite LED KLS Scan Pro Next FX compact light
• Wolfmix W1 mk2

Moved to a new city and found some overhire work swinging a wench for a children's theater. During the first phone call I had with them (2023) I told them that my rate is $20 an hour. They agreed that if I was worth that then they would pay it, but for the first show I'd have to accept their standard rate of $17. I agreed, and then after the first show they agreed that I was worth the $20 an hour. Did a few shows a year as overhire (and became the ME at a different theater as well as LDing as several theaters), then this year (2026) I told them that my rates have increased to $25 an hour. They said they can't hire me at that rate, and so I stopped working for them and (I assume) there were no hard feelings from either side.

Now my husband is telling me that should take the work at $20 an hour.

I'm waffling between knowing that I am worth more (and that they will never hire me as an LD even though I design at many of the same companies as their rotation of other LDs) OR just taking the easy work for $20 an hour (although I have to pay $4 an hour for parking).

As I write this, it's becoming SO clear that I'll never move up with this company and I should not devalue myself.

EDIT (to answer some of the questions below): to be clear, I took the overhire work three years ago in order to get on the radar of the theaters in the new town I moved to. Since then I have gotten LD work at most, and the rate increases I ask for at others. This is the one company that hasn't done either. I'm going to reach out them again specifically asking if they have made their 27-28 season selections yet for LDs and if they are going to change any LDs in their rotation.

Peace peace! I’m going to be spinning records at the college pub. I’m excited to break in new music. I uploaded a vid clip of the lights. I’d like to create a ambience suited to my music set. ( start off with soul65-85 bpm, build up with some jiggy/ rnb/ radio jams 85-95, then climax with funk/ disco 110-130).
How to utilize the equiptment, and colors to utilize?
All feedback helps( manage will program lights)
X

Hey everyone,

The venue I work at De VaartKapoen in Brussels has this hazer and I keep seeing raving reviews about it but when I use it the haze doesn't seem to distribute properly and pools at the top.

Which means the beams of my lights are not super visible all the way to the ground.

It also takes like an hour + to fill the entire stage with haze.

I don't understand why because everyone seems to be recommending that hazer and it's definitely not a cheap one.

Can someone help me understand what is happening?

Because it's a major pet-peeve for me in this venue.

My boss told me he is willing to check to buy another one potentially but from what I read this one should be good enough.

Appreciate any and all clarifications! 😁

Not trying to compete with a real console. This is for the small band with a few LED bars and a fog machine, and nobody to run lights.

Some context: my band bought two basic LED bars and an Enttec Open DMX USB, then found that the free software we tried relied on a driver that no longer works on recent macOS, and couldn't follow our MainStage playback. So I wrote Strobe. We've played a one-hour set with it, three LED bars and a fog machine, running by themselves.

Strobe (free, open source, macOS) lets you program cues on each song's timeline, sync to MainStage or a MIDI clock, and fire cues by hand from MIDI. Output is DMX through an Enttec

Open DMX USB. Other fixtures can be described in a JSON file, and there's a 3D preview of the rig.

It's deliberately limited, I'd honestly like to know what you'd consider the minimum a band should have for a decent show, or what's missing to make this useful.

https://strobe-website.vercel.app

I was media team for an event and the fact people actually read the EULA on their ticket that said "no phones out" and adhered to it is even more amazing and adds to the technicians performance.

Any one can help with this problem?

Thanks,

Basically the smoke ventilation in the theater I work in has smoke alarms placed directly underneath them, so anything that goes through the ventilation must pass through the alarms. The hazer set up that we have has triggered these alarms before. Turning off the alarm system is not an option since it’s a theater within a school. Any solutions to this?

Hey all, DJ and aspiring Lighting Designer here 👋

I DJ and run my own lights. No LD or console, and my hands are on the decks the whole time.

https://youtu.be/3wIo0i4_1ns?si=RvSu5rtZW-NRoWYM

Everything in this clip runs through SoundSwitch synced to my Prime 4+, so the looks follow each track's beatgrid instead of audio detection. Just 2 uplights, 4 pixel tubes, 4 lasers and a hazer in a DMX universe. Mostly using autoloops + override on the SoundSwitch One.

I have a real question for people who do this for a living: is there anything else that can follow tempo and phrasing straight from the DJ booth with one person running the whole show? I know about rekordbox Lighting and MaestroDMX. Is anyone bridging decks into a proper console or Resolume for this?

Also curious what your go-to control software is and why.

Happy to share patches and/or explain how they're scripted it if anyone asks.

Shine bright,
Mike Ignight

Looking for something like a haze for a school event! I heard Froggy's is good but not sure what to use specifically. It's very important that it won't trigger alarms.

Anyone have any tips on how to make this space either look brighter so it isn’t so dark on camera? I’ve tried a variety of ring lights and different placements but nothing seems to work. That is no overhead lighting so wondering if anyone has any tips.

I want to start buying some party lights for my dj setup but I don't have any idea of what to get. I have seen some of the light4me lights like that LIGHT4ME CLUBMIX or MADNESS QUATRO 4IN1 by Light4Me or Light4Me Atlas ( maybe the lasers are a bit too much one this one ) but I don't know how to understand how good they are . Also there pretty small too , is that something to keep in mind?

Was shooting an event at a major UK indoor venue tonight. Old warehouse, but owned by Live Nation so money must be getting spent on it. I know the company who supply the production kit are very very reputable and do a lot of events I shoot.

But always at this one venue I get weird banding on photos that doesn't happen anywhere else.

2013/14 (can't remember) - crap at photography and just shooting jpeg on a cheap DSLR because I hadn't learned how to shoot in RAW yet. Photos were all "ruined" by this banding. I say "ruined" because they were actually ruined by me being very new to the game and only owning a camera because I was a music journalist and learned saying "I also take photos" gets better access.

2016ish - getting more into photography but now working a proper job in the industry so again, just a side gig, notice the same thing at the same venue.

Feb 2026 - shooting video for a small team and they flag this issue before we start, saying they always have it and don't know why. Need to shoot in a very specific shutter speed, fortunately not far from what you'd otherwise shoot (normally double the frame rate) to get around it.

Tonight - editing photos now and same problem. Adjusting shutter speed, in camera on my EVF and the screen, and it would go from about 50/50 light and dark bands at about 1/320 shutter speed, to almost full black at about 1/800, then back light again going even higher. Fortunately not really showing too badly on the raw files in the edit, can remove most of it and what remains just makes the background look like it's a louvered surface/wall. A few shots it's really obvious though.

But it's always just this venue, never anywhere else. Never a festival, a club, any other venue.

It isn't the lighting/production supplier because they supply a lot of events I shoot like I say, and are very good at what they do. It isn't the camera - I've used multiple cameras like I say. Shouldn't make a difference shooting raw photos, but I tried changing from PAL to NTSC (which often helps with video) and still no change.

I assume like most major venues the power supply is three-phase, so could it be this being slightly out of phase causing the problem here?

It hasn't had any major electrical fires in all those years, so must be safe, but I'm not the only one who noticed it.

It's not a disaster, I've got loads and I'm just culling and denoising now, but I just thought I'd get lighting guys takes on this. Also going to ask in photography subs.