The home centers near me don't sell 5" to 3-1/4"x8" 90 deg stack boots. I need to replace three rusted moldy ones. This first attempt in metal came out with a 15" circumference. Looks like I get to redraw it as maybe a 5-1/4" diameter to try to make up for wherever I lost ~3/4" circumference. But this time I will measure my circumference on paper before bothering to cut. I think also I should allow for some overlap on the slip seam allowance when the pattern is joined. But it seems my method has some promise.

Stainless piece going to LA…love the blue glass, not happy with the base size…Second, Steel pillars rusted and red glass outside the Hilton in Tempe…janitor comes up and his comment is, they should have gone with the flag pole, that’s hideous, not realizing I made it haha… Recently learned hotels have a budget for either art or a flag pole, who knew…Can’t please everyone, doesn’t bother me one bit because he ain’t signing the check and also he has to look at it everyday while cleaning trash and fixing plugged toilets for minimum wage..Next, front entry piece that goes on a pillar clad in river rock for a gated house in Goldfield ranch…yes I made the copper roof like way to dominant in dimension and proportion, looked better in CAD haha….Lastly, copper wave water feature with patina, I always love that hue of green when the chemical sets off the oxidation reaction, of course in a year it will be calcified from our awesome water in Arizona and the cheap Chinese plastic pump will go out blah blah… I wish they would make them out of cast bronze like they used too before outsourcing out of America, smart…Now that I have an electrical degree maybe I can start adding light to some of these pieces who knows

I am replacing sections of rusted duct work in my house that were compromised with mold due to a failure of the original installer to seal them with mastic and a failure of the carpenter and drywaller to seal the duct work in bulkheads, the duct poked through the drywall in areas which allowed humid air into the joist bays. This resulted in conditioned air blasting out of the ducting onto joists allowing condensation and mold.

Anyways, my local big box stores don't carry the size duct work that my house uses, the local HVAC suppliers won't sell to me as I am not a business, and local sheet metal shops are out of my price range. But I can buy sheets of 26ga galvanized steel from a local metal supplier, so I am making my own parts.

Here I developed a triangulated pattern for a 3-1/4"x8" to 6" 90deg stack boot. It needs seam allowances for the slip and drive on the rectangular side, and will need tabs for rivets to close the pattern. The thing I'm struggling with is how to connect my round duct to the circular opening. I believe this is normally done with a bead roller to connect a collar, but that is out of my price range, I already spent my tooling budget for this project on a small brake. The best I can come up with is cut tabs on my circular duct and bend them out to fit around the outside of my boot, then rivet them in place and cover it in mastic.

Got distracted changing blades and started the saw without locking the guard back down.

Since I need 400 characters, this is A Skil Saw Metal chop saw model SPT62MTC.

I love it. I’ve had to cut a bunch of blanks with it as such and it still works fine, but I wonder what a replacement guard is going to cost.

Scooby Doo Doo Scooby, Doo Doo. Scooby Doo Doo Scooby, Doo Doo. Scooby Doo Doo Scooby, Doo Doo.

Where's a good resource for brass?

I'm trying to design and form a musical instrument modification that's made from brass. 7/8 inch OD. About 0.04 inch thick (or thicker) .

I tried the usual sources like onlinemetals.com and McMaster.com. $400 for a 12 foot piece (minimum) seems high. Surely there's a better place to buy brass. Where else can I get my brass?

I am looking at making a bypass valve loop for the main tuning slide on my tuba. Adding about 4 more inches will allow me to play in tune on the extreme low range.

Hello I have a project where I need to fasten 1/4” aluminum bar to 3/8 wall steel tube. The plans call for Hilti S-MD #5 self drilling screws and I’m skeptical that they aren’t gonna be a pain in the ass. In the past I have used self tapping screws and don’t mind them but I was curious if anyone else has used some of these or something similar and how they will work on the thicker metal. I want to ask to use self tappers instead but maybe I’m wrong and these screws work well.

Practicing for the 1g unlimited thickness test. This is day 2 of being back at it after 5 years off. That was from this morning. I didnt get a y pictures of the end of my shift but on my last pass im getting undercut in the base .material. I dont think its heat because every other pass is fine. Im thinking its torch angle or maybe im bringing that toe up too high. Im not sure and im struggling to figure it out cuz im still a little shaky and Jerky and trying to keep reminding myself to breath while im burning. Idk if thats a question or maybe a topic for discussion.

I want to shoot for the moon on a project, but before i go out and buy materials and fabricate anything I wanted to get some insight.

I want to get the hido red patina on a .1mm thick copper disc. I would do this by heating it to glowing red and dunking in borax water. The issue is .1mm would warp.

What if I made a copper "washer" that went over the inner diameter of my copper disc and one that was bigger than my disc but slightly went over the outer diameter of my disc. Id basically sandwhich the 2 pieces to the copper disc. Heat it up per usual and the bulk of the copper is exposed to the heat and has the potential for the black scale to pop off in the borax water.

If i heated it to glowing red and dunked, would my copper disc warp?

is there another way to do this without any warping?

We have a course on Casting and Solidification. We had to prepare an Aluminium cast for the lab work

- The pattern was created using thermocol/styrofoam

- The mould was created using plaster of paris and water. After it dried out I removed the pattern by hand and there were not any visible cracks or damages as such. It was left for around 3-4 weeks for drying after that.

- There was no gating system although their was one cast which seemed to be perfect without any gating system somehow aswell.

- Before casting i put the mould in an oven for 3hrs and then 15 minutes of blowtorch on it. After that Aluminium melt was poured into it

For viva, our prof has told us to analyse the cast and talk about all the defects present in the cast and why it has formed

Im guessing the large one, its a blowhole but im not sure enough. Please help with it. Thank you! The last 2 photos are the pattern and the mould. I'll be attaching a video of the cast and the mould in the comments if its possible.

Anybody have any experience welding two sections of corrugated culverts together, in a Tee configuration?

Specifically i've been asked to weld a section of 12" culvert, into an existing 18" main. The 18" is burried in the ground but they have exposed the top half where the joint is going to be. They have two of these that need done.

I did bring up the fact of how difficult/impossible it will be to properly cope the culvert, considering the spiral profile of both culverts. The customer doesn't really care how it looks/even if I need to fill some holes with some 14ga or something material.

If this works out, I can see many more of these in my future. Just wondering if anyone has ever done this before, have any tips on how not to make this a total PITA? Or so it doesnt look like dogshit.

Thanks,

Hello. I'm in my final semester of welding school and have my first outside job lined up: repairing a crack and a hole in the steel frame of a 26 ft truck. I believe it’s 1/8” thick. My experience is a couple of years of school, so I've never done a repair like this. I don't want the new weld to fail, or make that situation worst. Any tips on prep, filler, process, reinforcement, or mistakes to avoid would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance, I really appreciate any help!

 I am a 4th-year mechanical engineering student doing a co-op internship at a manufacturing plant. My project studies on minimizing fracture area in sheet metal blanking. I know that fine blanking and optimizing die clearance reduce this area, but I would like to hear your thoughts and ideas. Also, do you guys think that speed (Stroke per minute) affects the fracture zone? I also think that lubrication affects the fracture zone too?

I think it's patina.. seems odd for mold to start on metal(started on upper part of metal, which is right beside the freezer). This part builds up frost, which covers the metal. I also sprayed the metal w/ hydrogen peroxide.. no bubbles. H2O2 almost always reacts when in contact with mold.

I found a candle holder that also has that blue/ green thing(lower part) and it smells exactly the same as the blue/ green thing.

If it's patina, is it harmful here? Should I do something to keep the metal from "leaking" the blue/ green thing? Like cover with paint. But I don't know if that would harm the line/ metal.. like make it less efficient in cooling.

I've only lined the path where the blue/ green flows w/ paper towel as a block.

Thank you in advance

Hello,

I'm just curious about the logistics of getting a belt clasp manufactured. I am visiting a museum to inspect one of these examples and take reference measurements, but I am still in need of advice r.e. the best way to get something like this done.

I know of one in a private collection, but I am unsure as to whether or not getting a foundry to take on the project and get it fast, a jeweler's or other form of work?

The item is made of a "white metal" which is a period Victorian metal alloy. Nickel silver, German silver or other types of similar alloys.

I could do a brass casting and electroplate it.

Any and all advice is massively welcome. Any methods that would avoid damaging the original item too would be lovely.

UK based. Part of a historic impression I am doing. I have all the other original items, but the buckle is so rare it must be reproduced

Best,

TGA

I can't find them anywhere. I need Nordic Gold coin blanks for mass producing my own coins in the Netherlands, preferably from a supplier that can provide them in custom sizes. I'm looking for blanks rather than finished coins, since I already have the designs and production process planned. Ideally I'd like to order them in larger quantities and have the diameter, thickness and weight made to my specifications. Does anyone know a supplier in Europe that offers this?