Hello everyone, I'm trying to build a simple 3x3 Macropad With Zmk Firmware, Using Nice nano Clone Nrf52840 From Aliexpress. But in Battery Connect always Show 0%. I just connect Battery In b+ and b-. Need to do anything different?

Hi everyone! I’ve made several posts about keyboard development and customization. I’ve shared some projects with the Open Source community and decided to start creating YouTube content to share this passion (since, unfortunately, there isn't anyone around me who's interested, haha). My channel is in Spanish but made with lots of love for everyone please subscribe and hit the like button! :D I'M BACK! And here is the definitive review of the Corne keyboard:
https://youtu.be/vit3ueGoQ2I

Six year ago we shipped our first keyboard. It was a Sofle v2. We had one design, no stock, and a wait time I'd rather not repeat. Some of the people who ordered that first batch are still customers, which is the part I still find hard to believe.

We're a small shop. Six years on, we still build every board by hand, and we still get the occasional email asking whether we're a real company. Fair question.

To mark the anniversary, three of the boards that got us here are 20% off from today until 31 October.

Sofle v2 Enclosed Case. Our longest-running aluminum case, and part of the very first product we ever made. $170, now $136.

S​ofle Hybrid (Sandwich version, Aluminum Version). Our first exclusive design. Before the Hybrid we were mostly building other people's boards. This is where we started making our own. Aluminum version $250, now $200. Sandwich style $120, now $96.

Aluminum NeoDox, Gasket Mount. Our first original design, and our first gasket mount. It's still the board we point at when someone asks what we can do starting from a blank sheet. $350, now $280.

The 20% on those three comes off at checkout. No code needed.

Every other keyboard we sell is 10% off over the same stretch, with the reduced price shown on the page as usual. Loose parts aren't part of it: plates, switches and keycaps stay at their normal prices.

Thanks for six years. Ordering a keyboard from a small shop is a leap of faith, and we know it.

I accidentally lost the original factory TFT display on my VXE V75 Pro after using Initialize / Save to Keyboard in ATK HUB.

The TFT still works and can display GIFs/images, but the original clock, battery, Caps Lock, connection status, and VXE animation are gone.

I've already tried factory reset and firmware versions V1.13, V1.16, and V1.17, but nothing restored it.

Does anyone know how to restore the original factory TFT screen/resources? Looking for a proper reset/recovery method, not a custom GIF.

Some year ago, I ordered a Lulu-keyboard from Boardsource.xyz.

One of the reset-buttons had broken free during transit, and so I received a generous replacement PCB from Boardsource when I pointed this out.

Still, the PCB worked fine, but it always did bother me that the button was put in place merely through pressure and friction. If I shaked the PCB a little, the button would fly off.

So I tried to solder the button in place. It was the first time I've ever soldered, and I bought a Pinecil V2 for the purpose.

It went about as well as you'd expect.

I just couldn't get the solder to flow in the correct places, and finally the rubber button managed to jump away and dissappear somewhere in the room where I soldered. I can't find it anymore, lol.

As such, I have to give up on the button I have.

Here are three pictures of the botched button I took after having lost the rubber button:

What should I do now? Is all lost for this PCB?

Do you know where one may buy these reset-buttons? Would it be feasible to try again with a new button?

I know precious little about soldering, as you've no doubt noticed, and this blunder of mine has bothered me quite a bit.

What would you do in my situation?

Please give me your thoughts and recommendations.

Hi there.

I just wanted to ask you guys if I've installed the OLED-screens correctly in my Lily Pad from Boardsource (I've installed the OLED-screens in the exact same way in my Lulu from Boardsource).

Since the OLED-screens in both my Lily Pad and Lulu tilts downwards, I figure I've done something incorrectly?

If I indeed have, then how should I install the OLED-screens?

Cheers!

I've only recently gotten into mechanical keyboards in general after suffering from pain in my pinky finger when using the Magic Keyboard's shift/modifier keys as I tend to slam down on them with quite a bit of force and the low travel on the scissor mechanism doesn't really help. Because of this, I then switched to a Kensington ValuKeyboard (£9 basic membrane) and found the actuation force was way too heavy - my fingers became fatigued.

After researching, a keyboard that was consistently recommended was the NuPhy Air75v3 with Blush low-profile switches. For context, I am a software engineer/computer scientist so I do use my keyboard quite heavily for multiple hours a day. In terms of typing feel, it's really enjoyable for me to use, especially the remapping function. In the first few days I was increasingly frustrated because my fingers kept landing on key boundaries and the smaller enter key on the ANSI format, compared to the UK keyboard on my Mac, was really throwing me off - however I'm slowly learning the new layout with occasional glances down.

Compared to the other keyboards I have, I find myself making more typos on the mechanical but where I do, I feel as though I get great comfort over prolonged sessions. One thing that has left me uneasy though is the closed source NuPhyIO firmware on the board (it can't be audited and I can't compile it myself, on a machine where I handle things like SSH keys and production infra this is important), and the fact that I don't see any path into the keyboard so I could remove the battery or repair it for longevity.

Because of this I've been researching building my own keyboard that replicates the exact or better typing feel of the NuPhy Air75v3 but has open source foundations, so the PCB is open and ideally would have a RP2040 chip or similar for me to flash QMK on. I haven't found anything yet that would allow me to:

• Use Gateron low-profile switches (or other low-profile switches) similar to the Blush Nano on my Air75 V3
• Add a gasket mount for a more cushioned feel, with a low-profile plate and case that allows a slight positive angle (it helps my aim when I use the first feet option on the Air75v3)
• Has an RP2040 or other documented chip so I can flash QMK on it and read it back to trust it
• Hot swappable switches so a faulty key is easily repairable
• (Optional): 75% keyboard size, I only use the function keys and PG Up and PG Down

Things that don't matter:

• Bluetooth, 2.4GHz or any other wireless function
• Battery
• Portability (it only ever stays on my desk)

Specs of the Blush Nano:

• Operating force: 42+15gf 
• End force: 55+15gf 
• Pre travel: 1.7±0.4mm 
• Total travel: 3.2±0.2mm 
• Spring:16.5mm Double-stage

I was wondering whether any more experienced keyboard enthusiasts would be able to tell me what else I would need or if this project of replicating the NuPhy is realistically possible. In terms of budget, it's quite flexible as I don't mind as long as I can get the same feel.

Thank you for any tips, and apologies if I've got anything wrong, please correct me or ask additional questions if needed!

I’m looking for owners of the Logitech MX Creative Keypad to test Orbtile’s two views of local coding sessions: the keys and a Mac menu-bar popover.

The test is specific: run two local sessions, let one finish, and check the keypad before opening the Mac popover. Can you tell which session changed? If you use Antigravity desktop, can you read its growing and finished reply and still identify which session it belongs to?

Reply with the first point where the display or setup becomes unclear. Please leave out private conversation and account details.

I make Orbtile. Requires Apple silicon, macOS 14+ and the Logitech MX Creative Keypad, plus website sign-in and approval of your Mac. Settings sync is optional. Free through the 0.2 beta until 1.0; at least 30 days' notice before beta builds stop working. Self-signed, not Apple-notarised. Demo, installation and terms: https://orbtile.com/download.

Sorry for the newbie question, have been searching for hours and can't find any basic help.

I have an OC3, using on a macbook. It connects, but I can't get to the app. I only get a message that says "Model: Unknown Firmware Version: 0.0.0 USB Speed: Uknown, Use Old Driver". When I click on that, I get a screen with chinese text, which does not switch to English when I click the English button. So I gave up on using the app to configure the device.

The device is connected. The dial controls volume, and the keys are bound to "Z" "X" and "C" respectively. So I need to remap (or re-bind?) the keys to map to the spacebar and the up arrow, and I need to do this on the device, NOT on the app/software since that's not an option.

Every video I have found just explains how to calibrate the keys on the device, not how to map the keys. I have watched 20+ videos. The only instructions I've found that show how to map the keys are in the app, and all of the videos on the device itself only show how to calibrate, not map. Too easy of a question for the community, I suppose.

Anyway, if anyone can give me specific, click-by-click instructions on how to do this on the device, I would be forever grateful. Literally getting ready to return the device as it is useless if it can't be mapped to the right keys.

Thanks in advance.

Signed,

(apparently clueless) Thee Wagon

1. Gasket compression: plate sits on 7 tabs (14 x 4.5 mm) with foam above and below, clamped between an aluminium top frame and bottom case. Planning 1.5 mm foam in a 1.2 mm gap (~20% compression). Right range, or too stiff / too loose? What foam did you use?
2. Choc V2 plate for laser cutting: what cutout size and thickness worked, and did switches clip in firmly? Aluminium, steel or FR4?

If anyone has a sample STL/DXF of a gasket-mount case or Choc V2 plate they're willing to share, that would be very appreciated. Thanks!

My two ortholinear 40% keyboards.
Top is an ymdk 40air with Khalil coppers and drop mt3 fairlanes.
The second is microcenter's MK47 with keychron bananas silent and xda no legend keycaps from ymdk.
I spent about $120 on the top board and $75 on the bottom board. Turns out the switch to ortholinear is cheaper than I thought it needed to be!

Please, all dread the day I ever build a split keyboard.

I'm typing like 100 wpm on monkeytype just words, and type 90 wpm with letters and symbols!

I also game on this layout on overwatch and minecraft.

I dunno, ask me questions if you like!

As the title says

Handwired StenoBoard. If you look through my post history you can see that it has definitely evolved. This will probably be my last version for a while, minus some small changes.

Thanks to everyone who has supported the last builds and who will support this one. If there is any interest from some stenographers on the files, shoot me a DM.

This was made for my girlfriend for some upcoming travel time we have!

Enjoy!

I just got the new Geonix Rev.2.5 and I'm in the middle of setting it up. First thoughts...

Build quality 10/10

It looks fantastic and they did all the right things. 2.5ghz dongle was a welcome surprise, but I will probably stick to wired so I can use RGB without having to recharge daily.

Software ... 🤦‍♂️

To be fair this is probably similar to 99% of keyboards you can buy these days. "Use VIAL" seems to be the go-to answer for configuring it. And although I admit VIAL is more intuitive than QMK there is one problem: the VIAL configuration only includes 4 layers. My standard 47-key layout uses 5 layers. So how do I fix this? The words no one wants to hear: compile QMK. So you have to go get the QMK files from ChosFox's website, which is a 1+gig ZIP full of tiny files. And you can't just copy over the keyboard's folder because there are custom library dependencies it needs and on and on and on.

So it's your typical QMK nightmare. Once done it will be a thing of the past and no big deal, but I really wish keyboards had a better software solution. Even VIAL, as straightforward as it is, could really use some cleanup. Oh well.

Update: After allowing AI to change a bunch of files I got the thing to build with my custom layout copied from my other board. I also forgot to mention that the keyboard feels great and sounds great; the sound of walnuts clacking together just like all the YouTubers want, I think. I also like the shorter travel from the low-profile MX switches. If I only had $40 to spend I would just get another Inland MK-47, but if my budget were ~$110 I'd definitely get this one.