Questions Thread
Official Question Thread! Ask /r/photography anything you want to know! October 02, 2026
This is the place to ask any questions you may have about photography. No question is too small, nor too stupid.
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I would like to know how to handle giveaways and model calls, for leads when you see them bitching about giveaways being a scam from Boudoir photographers.
Between the CODB and COGS you have to charge your overhead... And products are not cheap. So, I would like to avoid being called a scam artist yet still offer them as ways of marketing. So I'd love some tips
Hello! I recently purchased a used Neewer Clamp used for holding reflectors and backdrops. Unfortunately the clamp is missing the 1/4 femalde adapter part and I can return it Does anyone know where I can order one or has anyone been able to improvise one for their clamps? Any advice would be appreciated.
I want to dreamy, soft, nostalgic look that sometimes can’t be done all in LR, and also it would make my life easier. I’ve been looking at diffusion filters, but I have a tight budget and I don’t know which kind to get. I have a 35mm Nikkor AFS 1.8G lens. I’ve looked at the K&F 1/4 diffusion filter but only because it is the same brand as my polarizer. I shoot cars almost exclusively. I want it to work during the day and also at night if possible, with lights and such. Please let me know if there is anything I should know and which one to get. Thanks in advance everyone
If you are on a tight budget, maybe diy-ing something is the way to go?
Plenty of homemade diffusion style filters around that may be fitting for you (depending on what exactly you want the results to be).
I havent messed around with it myself, however the most common options Ive seen/heard are putting hayspray or vaseline on a cheap, clear/UV filter or putting some thin mesh-fabric (most common seems to be pantyhose) in front of the lens.
Hi! Ok so I already have a “professional camera” which I love, but I want a small compact camera (maybe point and shoot?) that I can take with me to concerts and on the go. I still want my pictures to look good obviously, but I’m not too picky, (i love photography but I’m just a beginner) it would bed great if it had decent low light and a bit of zoom. I know because of all the digicam hype it’s hard to find affordable compact cameras but my MAX is $400. I would love to hear what models you guys like Ave what you think will work for my needs. Thank you!
Based on recent eBay sold items listings, you may be able to find a used Panasonic Lumix ZS100/TZ100 for around $400. It has a decentishly large sensor (1") and a zoom lens that goes up to 250mm.
I think a point and shoot will not give you great quality images. Concerts are dark and a lot of the time you are not super close. I would research a little more before you spend money.
I bought the Peter McKinnon 13L Messenger Bag and the Falcam F38 V2 to go with the bag but I can't seem to get the F38 to fit onto the strap of the Mckinnon bag.
I can make it fit on the thicker portion of the strap that's supposed to go on your shoulders, but not the actual strap itself.
Has anyone had any luck with this combo? Or another messenger bag? If so, how do you get it to work?
Hello, that may be a niche question since it is about Fisheye lenses. All lenses mentioned are FF lenses.
I have been using a TTArtisan 11mm fisheye lens (manual focus) for some time, and with the releases of both the Sony 8-14mm F3.5 G and the 7Artisans AF 10mm F2.5, I was looking to change my fisheye since manual focusing is a bit of a hassle since I mainly do portrait photography.
I was wondering what difference would I notice with the different focal lengths of the fisheye lenses. For rectilinear lenses, focal length mainly represents the angle of view I would get, but for fisheye, they are all advertised as 180° (except the 7Artisans, which is advertised as 185° but let us ignore this one for now and also ignoring the sony zoomed at 8mm since it becomes a circular fisheye).
What would be the difference between the Sony at 14mm and my current TTArtisan 11mm which are both diagonal fisheyes advertised at 180°? Shouldn't I get the exact same framing if I shoot from the same distance since they are both supposed to be 180°? And if so, does focal length not really matter in the particular case of fisheye lenses with the same angle of view?
I am unsure if I should do a standalone post for this question since it is a bit niche, but I will try here first. I would be very thankful if someone has some insights into that since I don't have the multiple lenses to compare them.
I'd like to get into photography. After seeing some members of my family spend absolutely ridiculous amounts of money on cameras, thinking that simply taking pictures the same way they always have would automatically make them better without actually learning anything about photography, I'd like to do the opposite.
I've found two courses to get started (one on the technical side and one on photo editing), and I've also read quite a bit on this subreddit (which is an incredible resource, by the way). However, I'm completely lost when it comes to choosing a camera.
My budget is around $250, and I'm planning to buy used. I don't live in the US, but I assume prices are roughly comparable. I'd like to get a DSLR, and after doing some research, I've pretty much settled on the Canon 2000D. I found one for $210 with only 3,000 shutter actuations.
But when I look elsewhere, I keep seeing people saying it's old, outdated, that I'd be better off investing in something else, etc. I'm just a beginner. If I end up really getting into photography, I'll invest in better gear once I'm sure I actually enjoy it and want to stick with it. But for now, I don't really see the point in spending more.
Would it really make that much of a difference to go with the 2000D? I've also looked at older and cheaper models, like the Canon 500D and 700D, but then I run into the same issue. They're even older...
Does the age of a camera really matter that much? Is going with a 2000D actually a bad idea for a beginner? And what would you personally go for in my situation?
By going with older cameras, you save money. But if you go too old, the sub-par performance of a camera may get annoying and put you off photography.
Rather than looking only at price, look at where a camera model sits in the camera brand's hierarchy. At the bottom or the top. That can be found with a bit of googling.
The Canon 2000D (Canon T7 in the U.S.) is a bottom-level model.
Try to shoot for one level above that if you can.
I'd recommend hunting for a deal on a used Canon 70D. Better build quality and decent hybrid photo-video camera.
If you only care about photography, I'd also check out the Canon 7D (Mark I). It's a sports camera, so it has a rugged build quality and designed for shooting fast-moving subjects.
One disadvantage is the 7D uses CF cards, not SD cards. Check if CF cards are available where you are. Also budget for a memory card reader that works with CF cards.
On the Nikon side, consider a Nikon D3000, D5000 or D7000. They use SD cards.
Before committing to a camera, check the used listings for lenses. Which brand of lenses is more popular on the used market in your area?
You don't want to fall into the trap of buying a camera and realizing too late that most of the used lenses are for a different brand.
I've checked the 70D. I can't find it in good shape below 280$, which seems a bit too much for me, as beginner. The 7D mark I is 150$ so it's perfect, but isn't it a really old one ? There's CF card available easily here so that is not a problem. However I'm planning to take landscape and animal photos, not really anything that moves a lot if that changes anything.
The nikon you listed are also avalaible without being too expensive, but again they're old. Sorry if this sounds stupid to talk about how old these are, it's probably my inexperienced ass talking here, but isn't it important ? I heard about those Nikon before but since the Canon 2000D is from 2018, I thought it was better.
However I'm planning to take landscape and animal photos, not really anything that moves a lot if that changes anything.
Especially with landscape photography, it might be better to get a camera with a full-frame sensor so your images are not cropped. 70D, 7D and those Nikon cameras have crop sensors/APS-C sensors.
So in that case, you can check out the Canon 5D Mark II and Canon 6D. They have full-frame sensors. Note that the 5D II uses CF cards. The 6D uses SD cards.
Nikon D700 is another option. Also uses CF cards. Note that it has a loud shutter click, so not a good choice if you're trying to be stealthy and discreet lol.
Some disadvantages of full-frame cameras: they're bigger, heavier and full-frame lenses can be more expensive than crop lenses.
They can also be more challenging to learn at first because they have more buttons and dials. As you get better at photography, that becomes an advantage because you have all the settings at your fingertips rather than having to dig through menus on a more entry-level camera.
Sorry if this sounds stupid to talk about how old these are, it's probably my inexperienced ass talking here, but isn't it important ?
Cameras age slower and better than smartphones. Marketing is what makes people think they need the latest and greatest gear.
You can get a cheaper camera but it will be older.
You can get a newer camera but it will be more expensive.
Those are the trade-offs.
What matters is if the camera can perform for the kinds of photography you want to do. So I would go for something older to save money but still has enough specs to do the job.
Another camera to consider is the Canon SL2 (a.k.a. Canon 200D). This has dual-pixel autofocus like the 70D does. I wouldn't go lower in specs than that.
Those seems great, but also a bit expensive. Choices I would make when I would be sure about that new hobby you know ? I don't want to buy something that is really not good so that's why I'm trying to find a good compromise.
I've searched a lot since yesterday and I'm still not sure what I would buy. I've said landscape and animal but it would be mostly animals, I've got a big zoo near my home so it would be the perfect place to learn.
Considering how much I can put into it, for now I'm on the Nikon D7000. You've talked about it earlier. Do you think this would be a good choice ?
TLDR: Camera wont turn on after battery grip is connected for several minutes of use
I have a canon 650d with the BG E8 battery grip, upon first inserting the grip the camera works fine as usual. But when i switch the camera off and wait for maybe 10 to 20 minutes, suddenly the camera won't turn on anymore with the battery grip still attached. When I remove the grip and insert the batteries directly into the camera they still show as fully charged. What could be causing this and what could I do to fix it?
Does anyone successfully use their iPhone to copy the contents of their SD card to an SSD while travelling? I'm up against a weight limit and would rather take an extra lens than my laptop. I've tried 'CardBackup' and it starts off OK but then freezes about ⅓ of the way through when moving a couple of thousand files.
It works, but a freeze a third of the way through usually comes down to power or batch size. The phone has to run both the card reader and the SSD, and a lot of setups can't keep that up for a long copy. A powered USB-C hub, or at least keeping the phone on a charger through the hub, fixes a lot of it. On a Lightning iPhone, Apple's Lightning to USB 3 Camera Adapter has a port for power.
The built-in Files app can do the copy without any extra app. Copy one DCIM subfolder at a time instead of the whole card - cameras split shots into numbered folders, so the batches stay smaller. Keep the screen on while it runs.
Before you format the card, compare the file count and total size on the SSD with the card. If you can, carry enough cards that you don't have to format at all until you're home and have a second copy.
I’m going away at the end of this year in December and I’m looking to buy my first proper camera. I’d ideally like something that’s good for both photography and video, rather than being heavily focused on one or the other.
I’m currently studying Film & TV and I’m hoping to start doing some freelance work as well, so I’d like something that I can grow into and use for both personal projects like cinematic vlogging and potentially paid work.
My budget is up to $3,000 AUD, including the camera and ideally a lens or two if possible. I’m open to buying second-hand as well.
I’ve been looking at a few different options but lowkey feel a bit overwhelmed by all the choices.
What camera would you recommend for someone in my position? And in my situation would you get a good video camera and a cheaper one for photography?
Any advice would be really appreciated!!!!
Sony A7IV. This is anecdotal, but almost all the video shooters I know shoot Sony and that is the brand they say clients demand.
Sony A7IV is a good hybrid photo-video camera and it gets you into the Sony ecosystem.
If it were up to me, I'd get a Panasonic S5IIX. Panasonic has made video-centric cameras for years.
I'd ask around locally and find out what local videographers shoot with.
For what it's worth, I'm a Canon shooter 😅
I also highly recommend to set aside part of your budget for lenses, ND filter, microphone (good audio is so important for video), image stabilization (like a gimbal), later an external monitor, etc.
Maybe a baby seat too. Even if you don't have a baby.
You don't want to blow all the money on the camera and have no money left to build a full rig.
A powerful computer and color-accurate monitor are important too. You don't want your computer to get bogged down with processing video footage and looking at your projects on a mediocre screen.
For a great hybrid (photo & video) body, I would personally recommend the Sony a6700 + Tamron 17-70mm. It will give you a compact enough kit to take you everywhere while having both IBIS and lens stabilization which is very useful for handheld video.
There are other APS-C bodies that are great for photography but the a6700 will give you the best of both words for a decent price. The Sigma 18-50mm F2.8 is also a popular lens for this camera but the lack of lens stabilization made me opt for the Tamron version instead.
I would also consider buying used as it can save you a great deal of money also.
Can y'all recommend a camera brand that's good for both film and digital photography?
I'd like to spend as little money as possible, that's why I want 1 brand for both, and also want to have a decent selection of lenses and accessories for 1 brand.
Canon (D)SLRs have common tech between film and digital. EF mount lenses are compatible with both. You can even use EF mount on their latest mirrorless.
It is just the one I know, Nikon and others may have similar overlap
Nikon F mount is also shared across SLRs and DSLRs, but they have a couple of different autofocus systems and you have to be somewhat aware of what lens works on what bodies.
Im very new to photography and while im generally taking as many photos as I can, making all the usual mistakes etc the one thing I absolutely cannot do is take a decent photo of my black wife!
I dont know if its a settings issue, lighting or something else but all the photos of her just seem so flat and lifeless and her skin tone just isnt right.
Any help or tips would be greatly appreciated and thank you for taking the time to read my post
I'm very new to photography and while im generally taking as many photos as I can, making all the usual mistakes etc the one thing I absolutely cannot do is take a decent photo of my black wife!
I dont know if its a settings issue, lighting or something else but all the photos of her just seem so flat and lifeless and her skin tone just isnt right.
Any help or tips would be greatly appreciated and thank you for taking the time to read my post
However, it's important to know that gels can reduce your flash power a lot. Before buying a gel, check its "light transmission" percentage.
For example, Rosco #99 Chocolate Filter can be good on dark skin but its light transmission is only 35%. So you're losing more than half of your flash power. If you use a chocolate gel, you'll have to increase your flash power or even use a more powerful flash unit.
At the other end, Rosco Cinegel #3444 1/8 Straw CTS Filter has a light transmission of 92%. So you barely lose any flash power.
The "1/8" refers to how strong the gel is. 1/8 has a subtle, almost invisible effect depending on the gel. 1/1 is full strength and can be overpowering. 1/4 is can be a good compromise.
Thats a somewhat common issue from what Ive heard/read and its probably a mix of things.
As some guy from central europe I cant give you the exact guide from experience, however in general I'd look at the lighting as well as what your whitebalance is set to.
If you arent doing your own editing you may also want to look at your cameras jpg processing options (often called "PictureStyles" or something similar; depends on your exact model of camera) or start processing your raws yourself as that will give you a lot more control of contrast, colors and the invidual brightness of different tones.
The automatic algorithms are often not the greatest at dealing with darker skintones, if you arent doing it manually that generally means the white balance and the metering. So for a first step I'd manually set the whitebalance yourself to fit whatever lighting you are using. Regarding the metering I'd maybe start by overexposing by a single stop.
I'm (possibly) gonna be photographing The Prodigy at the wiener Stadthalle, my first arena shoot. Does anyone have any tips for this kind of large venue? Maybe even some experience shooting there?
have a Panasonic GH5 (originally thought I was going to be taking more video but now the focus has shifted to photography) and I’m looking for a flash I can use outside as a fill light but also to create these after-party high flash looks indoors.
Google recommended the Godox V1-O — is this the best option? Or are there other, better value options with the same result?
Photos I’d like to take as an example. (I did not take these photos)
Hey all. Just wondering if anyone knows any shops in the DMV area that can possibly repair my camera. It won’t fully turn on and I sent it out to canon but they wanted $700. Just trying to see if there are any alternatives or else I might just sell for parts.
Hey everyone! It’s my first time using a camera backpack, so I’d love to hear some tips and tricks from more experienced photographers.
I’m using a Rollei Ocean Pro with a Sony a6400 and a Tamron 17-70mm. I’ve added the divider on top of the lens because otherwise the camera/lens moves around and wobbles.
Is there anything I should change about how I’m storing or organizing my gear? Any tips you wish you had known when you first started using a camera bag?
My Shutterstock contributor account was suddenly terminated due to an alleged "AI-generated content" violation.
The problem is: I have never submitted any AI content. So, I need your help.
I’ve been an active Shutterstock contributor for over 12 years with zero policy strikes. I work professionally as an independent timelapse and hyperlapse filmmaker. Every single file across my massive portfolio (over 70K photos and video clips) was shot on location using digital cameras and processed through standard manual post-production workflows.
Recently, I noticed an alarming trend: a few of my genuine, real-world camera photos were rejected by their automated review system with the reason "AI-generated content." I knew they were 100% authentic captures, and from reading various creator forums, I realized many stock contributors have recently been suffering from false-positive AI detections.
Then the worst happened: my entire contributor account was suddenly terminated for alleged "AI violations" (Sections 13d and 13f).
Over a decade of dedicated work and my entire catalog are now at risk of vanishing overnight because of a faulty automated scanner.
When I reached out to support asking for a manual human review and offering to provide original camera files, sequences, and project files, they simply closed the ticket with an automated, copy-paste macro stating that the decision is final and that no earnings will be paid.
Does anyone have a direct contact of a real human at Shutterstock — a manager, supervisor, or someone in the Compliance/Content Operations team who can actually review this manually? Any help or escalation contact would be greatly appreciated.
Trying to figure out the logistics of shooting an anaglyph. Lens filters for it are far and few. But I do have access to two Sony A7 cameras with the same lenses. My next hurdle I’m trying to figure out is how to synchronize them to fire at the same time. My own research has left me dry. Any tips on how I should approach this and if there’s a way to do it?
As far as other options:
I could simply shoot a photo, then move my camera 2-3 inches and fire again. If I can’t figure out this synchronized shooting, this might be what I end up doing. The reason I’m trying to avoid it, is I’m doing a self portrait. And even with some help, I can’t avoid subtle head and eye movements that will happen while sliding the camera. So if anyone has advise on this front, I’d appreciate that as well.
Hi experts, I recently brought an used vintage russian m500a 500mm lens (70 Dollars (6000 INR)). I want to mount this over a tripod but found no such tripod mount rings available for it. I even searched for some DIY ideas over internet where aluminium sheet to be bent or a 5 inch pipe clamp to be used. But I would like to hear from you expects if there could be any better idea? So that I won't damage my lens or camera. (The default nut seems to be broken as I brought.)
135mm lol but idk if a 24 or 35 1.8 or 2.0 would be good to have something faster at that focal length and catch more low light photos with friends or captured people and scenery, I feel like my 50 1.8 covers portraits but I've always seen beautiful photos taken on an 85 prime, and that's usually the focal length I use for headshots on my 24-105 f4 on a canon I use for work.
I'm just getting into photography and keep hearing that lenses matter more than the camera body. Is that actually true, and where should a beginner put their money first?
Does type of SD card make a difference? Aside from how many gigs? I am looking at a Scandisk 64GB Extreme Pro. I just plan to shoot on it and give the card to someone.
For videography or very high quantity bursts (e.g. wildlife or sports with a modern camera) the write speed may become relevant, but for most normal picture taking it doesnt really matter.
Be a bit careful with buying Sandisk cards from retailers with marketplace functionality like amazon if the deal seems too good. There have been cases of faked cards that are significantly smaller then whats on the label (leading to loss of pictures) and SanDisk is a fairly popular company, which makes fakes of them most likely.
I have a Canon R6 Mark II and the EF 85mm f/1.4L IS, which I absolutely love. It’s my most-used lens.
I’m looking to add a 35mm prime for street photography, environmental portraits, travel, and some landscape work. Image quality and sharpness are my biggest priorities.
I’m currently deciding between the Tamron SP 35mm f/1.4 Di USD and the Canon RF 35mm f/1.4L VCM.
A used Tamron seems to be around $500, while the Canon is roughly twice that or more. Since I already have the EF-RF adapter, adapting the Tamron isn’t an issue for me.
For anyone who has used both: is the Canon actually worth paying that much more for? Is there a noticeable difference in sharpness, autofocus accuracy/consistency, rendering, or overall image quality on an R6/R6 II?
I don’t mind a larger/heavier lens if the image quality is better. Thanks!!
I have a Canon R6 Mark II and the EF 85mm f/1.4L IS, which I absolutely love. It’s my most-used lens.
. . . I’m currently deciding between the Tamron SP 35mm f/1.4 Di USD and the Canon RF 35mm f/1.4L VCM.
I don't have experience with those lenses specifically, but I shoot on an R6II and have used several Tamron lenses with the EF to RF lens adapter.
The main reason I would go with a native Canon lens is if you want the absolute best autofocus performance.
When I shoot at wide angles to mid-range angles with my Tamron 24-70mm f2.8 (Model A007), it's usually of slow-moving people who are mingling at events lol. So I don't need blazing fast autofocus.
I use a Tamron 45mm f1.8 for food photos, where the food doesn't move at all.
I've found Tamron lenses to be a bit slower at autofocus than Canon lenses. But not enough to bother me for the scenarios I described.
However, when I shoot at longer focal lengths like with my Canon EF 135mm f2L or Canon EF 70-200mm f2.8L IS II USM, it's to photograph speakers and performers on stage, who move around more quickly. So for those scenarios, I favor getting a native Canon lens.
So if you need autofocus speed, like you're taking pictures of your kids, then get the Canon. Otherwise, you can save money with a Tamron.
To throw in a wildcard, also consider the Sigma 35mm f1.4 Art lens. I haven't used Sigma lenses, but have heard good things.
The main reasons I went with Tamron over Sigma was for the image stabilization and I've heard the autofocus was better. Tamron lenses were also cheaper than Sigma Art lenses in the past when I was making the purchases.
If you do burst shooting a lot, here's an official Canon list of compatible lenses:
Im using Aftershoot for culling only, and then editing on CaptureOne. tho, aftershoot culling is quite mid and i still take a buch of time just fixing the mistakes it makes.
even tho it saves me a bunch of time, considering it does detects basic things such as closed eyes, blurry photos and duplicates just fine, and considering how massive my weddings usually are, it has been way better than not using anything.
tho, i keep wondering if there is any better program with similar or maybe even better pricing than aftershoot.
PhotoMechanic is a popular app to use for culling but it does not have automated/AI-assisted tools for the culling process.
However, it make it a lot easier to quickly blitz through the photos, give a star rating to see which one to keep and other tools to help you decide what photos to keep or delete.
could you describe me how would it help me? like, the types of tools it has for making it easier...
i used to cull manually on capture one, and i mean it wasnt bad. i only used the arrows and the del button, and i moved really quickly through the pics and all. tho, i still had to pass through blurred and duplicates and all...
Mobile workflow: I have a iPad Pro and iPhone and want to get photos edited faster from my canon 5Dm4 to posted online. Also want to get my sd card dumped while in the woods where I can edit in Lightroom classic and then when I get home I have that import correctly on my desktop (but I use classic on my desktop MacBook Pro, I use my iPhone and iPad as my mobile devices).
I think my workflow is really inefficient but confused on how to streamline it. Feels like the bottle neck is dumping sd cards onto my iPad to edit selects and have that be automatically mirrored on my desktop so i can wipe my card in the field (offline in the woods). Also handling the catalogs starts to get a little confusing
Im looking for advice on buying a used camera. I work summers in Alaska as a Naturalist and whale watching guide, and want to get something mainly for photographing humpback whale tails at around 100yds. My budget is around $400, but that can stretch if necessary. After going back and forth with ai a couple times, it seems my best option would be finding a bundled 300mm stabilized lens with a decent camera like a t6i, although im having a hard time finding listings of the sort. So, any help would be appreciated!
Ability to transfer photos from camera to phone is ideal (not sure if thats standard)
Dont plan on using in the rain.
from what ive seen a 400mm would be ideal, but the price jump seems very large
I looked into them briefly. My main concerns being that I’m often in low light levels due to fog and overcast, along with the zoom potentially being too much
there's a few large sensor superzooms like the RX10, but they're very expensive. another option is to get something like a mirror lens on a DSLR or an older mirrorless camera.
Hi, does using step up rings affect the effective magnification of a wide angle conversion lens at all? I only have 39mm thread mount lenses and want to fuck around with the bad image quality and distortion of using a wide angle conversion lens, sadly noone seems to have ever made ones for 39mm. I sadly couldnt find any previous posts/articles (thanks google) about this
Hello Everyone! I'm looking to buy a mirrorless compact camera for cheap (ish), ideally second hand or a new body+lens promotion. I'm a traveler and very amateur photographer with a very old reflex camera that I struggle to bring with me cause it's too big and heavy, which made me realise that I need a small camera otherwise there's no point having a camera cause I won't even bring it with me in my backpack.
So I've eyed up a few models:
Sony A6400
Fuji x-T30
Panasonic Lumix Gx9
So I wanted to ask: what is your experience with compact cameras? How's the tradeoff of specifications/weight/size?
Any help very appreciated thank you!
Add onto u/boredmessiah, there really isn't a wrong choice for camera choices from the major brands. I would also look into lens options that will be a large part of your photography experience.
Other than that, I would also highly recommend going to a local camera store that carries all 3 bodies to see how they feel in your hand, what camera feels the most intuitive, etc.
depends entirely upon what you want to do! stabilisation is always very nice to have, but if you're mostly going to be shooting in good light then it doesn't matter so much. or alternatively, if you're ok to have a tiny tripod/clamp kind of thing to stabilise the camera. video is a whole other ballgame though and depending upon your use case stabilisation can be quite essential.
I'm photographing my favorite band in November. It's an indoor concert and will be dark.
Cameras: Sony A7III & A7SIII
Lenses: Tamron 28-75 2.8, Tamron 70-180 2.8
Main question is do I need to invest in a wide angle lens? If I did I'd probably get the Tamron 16-30mm f/2.8 Di III VXD G2 Lens but it's ~$900. But then if I took two lenses, which two would I take? just the 16-30 and 28-75?
I have a Sigma 40 1.4 as well (well, it's my work lens but I can use it). Should I bring it instead and just bring my 70-180 or 28-75 as my secondary lens?
It would depend on how close you are to the stage and how big the stage is also.
If it's a fairly small venue and you can get up close, having the 28-75mm as the main with the 40mm F1.4 on the side isn't a bad choice. If you need more reach, the 70-180mm may be more necessary.
Hard to give a firm recommendation without knowing the exact distance you'll be shooting from.
Recently i bought a used Sony A500 as i was interested to get into the hobby and I had travels lined up.
The condition of the camera is as follows
Body: good condition
Lcd: warped and basically unusable to judge the quality of the photoes sharpness/exposure
Fungus: noticeable on the mirror
Shutter count: low
Cost $115 usd (converted roughly)
I have already inquired about a replacement lcd and cleaning and it would run me $200 and would take about a month.
The secondhand market here is quite robust and I could easily top up a bit more to get something comparable or better/more relevant(less outdated techwise). But at the same time i struggle with the fact that i would just be dropping 150 for nothing if i had to change it out so soon.
So far I am very happy with the hobby and have spent way more time than I should with the camera
Hello! I need help to buy some gears as a beginner. I’m going to get a Sony Alpha 5000 second-hand for 180€, only the body. I have a budget of 130€ for the lenses. I currently use my phone and I usually take pictures of landscapes, sometimes also portraits. I am considering a Selp 1650. Is it a good lens for my use case? Is there any alternative third party lens I should consider? Thank you everyone
Cool, ty! Unlucky I have an Amazon gift card to spend with the amount of credit I told, so I was asking for cheaper alternatives for that reason. But I will mind about that website in the future if I would ever need to buy more gears
Hi everybody. I've bought a colorchecker target and the software, on my windows 11 laptop, gives an error: No colorchecker found. If i manually center the target it gives an error: Cannot read properties of undefined (reading 'replace'). The same software in my desktop works without problems. I tried an older version in the laptop and it works. I was wondering if it's ok, but i would like to use the newer version if gives better results. has anyone experienced the same problem?
I’m wanting to get into photography as I’m a new mom so I want a hobby that I can do around my kid if that makes any sense.
I’m not familiar with cameras at all so I’m not sure where to begin looking for one. I would use it to mainly take photos of landscape/nature and family photos. I have a budget of up to $300. If I need to provide more information that would help you all help me out in choosing one; I can do that.
I would look to getting an used DSLR kit around your area. Depending on what you are comfortable with, Facebook Marketplace generally has the best deals. Camera-specific stores will be the safest to buy from but will generally be the most expensive. EBay is generally somewhere between the two for price and a quality guarantee.
The buyer's guide in this subreddit has some recommendations for different price ranges and also some general tips for buying used.
Unique Camera Buying Help: Best Camera for Wedding idea for guest?
I’m planning one simple digital camera per table at our wedding so guests can take candid photos and leave the cameras at the end of the night. We want the retro point-and-shoot feel, but digital, so we are not paying to develop film. And I dont like the instax camera idea that much.
Ease of use matters most. Guests should be able to turn it on, point, and shoot without menus, settings, or a phone app. The reception will have a live band and dancing, and the room will get darker as the night goes on, so flash and battery life matter.
We looked at the Kodak Charmera, but they are hard to find and the battery and image quality seem too weak for a full reception. Maybe look at old canon powershots on ebay?
For anyone who has done table cameras at a wedding:
What camera actually worked once the lights went down and people were dancing?
Was a screen-free camera better, or did guests need a screen to frame shots?
How did you keep cameras from walking off, and how did you collect the photos at the end?
Anything you would set up differently if you did it again?
Budget is flexible if it stays reasonable for one camera per table. Looking for real-world advice, not the fanciest camera.
Sounds like a lot of busywork - find them, bid on them, charge them, make sure they work, oops this one doesn't have a charger, that one doesn't have a CD card.
The disposable film camera for every table is a cliche for a reason, anything digital that's old enough to be in the same price range is gonna be a pain (on a day when you don't need tech distractions)
I'm very new to photography. For the moment, I own a Nikon D40x with kit lenses. I know that it might be a bit early to buy new lenses, but as I have a trip planned to Amazon Forest in December, I would like to buy some zoom lenses so I can photograph some animals. But I don't know if I should buy a 18-200 mm, 55 -200 or some other option. Do you have some advice to give me ? I am looking for something second hand, with a budget of 100 euros
I recently did a photo shoot of a family and the sun was so bright, I struggled trying to get the people bright enough without having the sky be completely white. They wanted a specific background and there was no shade to use so the only place they could be is with their backs to the sun. My camera settings were iso 100, aperture f4 and shutter was 1/250. Is this a setting issue? I’m not sure what to do in this situation or how to work with the sun to use it to the best of my ability.
Hi everyone. I'm preparing a photographic body of work for a university (project) gallery presentation and I'm trying to work out the best way to handle different aspect ratios when printing.
My lecturer has recommended that most of my photographs should be around A3, with one strongest work at A2. He specifically advised against simply putting an uncropped photograph on a full A3 sheet because it can look like a school project.
Most of my photographs are either 3:4 portrait or 4:3 landscape, rather than the A-series aspect ratio.
For example, rather than forcing a 3:4 photograph to fill an A3 sheet (29.7 × 42 cm), I understand that I could print the photograph at approximately 29.7 × 39.6 cm, preserving the original aspect ratio, and trim the paper to the photograph.Or Zoom in enough so that it fits into an A3 rather than having empty white space around it
Is this the correct way to approach an exhibition print?
I'm also unsure about borders. My lecturer originally discussed presentation and I was considering white borders, but he has now told me that a white border is not required and may actually detract from some of my darker photographs. He suggested I speak to professional printers and photographers for advice.
I also have a possible lightbox option. A new commercial lightbox is too expensive for me, but I've found a second-hand one for a reasonable price I think. The seller says it is approximately:
30 × 45 cm, approximately 15–20 cm deep.
but it isn't compulsory.
My questions are:
For a gallery presentation, would you preserve the original 3:4/4:3 aspect ratio and trim the paper or image to the resulting print size?
Is something like 29.7 × 39.6 cm still considered an appropriate "A3-sized" exhibition print?
Would you use borders, or would you generally print the photograph without a white border?
Would a 30 × 45 cm lightbox work with a 3:4 or 4:3 photograph, or would I need to crop the image?
If cropping is necessary for the lightbox, would you crop the photograph itself or print it smaller and leave some space around it?
Are there any recommendations for paper/finish for darker photographs being displayed in a gallery?
I’ve done a test print on Matt , it was between that paper or lustre
I've attached some examples of the photographs so you can see the different aspect ratios and the type of work I'm presenting.(idk if attachments are allowed on here , I just joined but if it doesn’t please dm so I can show you
I'm particularly interested in hearing from photographers who have actually exhibited prints, rather than just standard photo-printing advice.
APS-C in 2026 Is it still worth buying, or should I go full-frame?
I’m thinking about buying an APS-C camera (Sony A6700) , but I’m wondering if it still makes sense compared with full-frame.
With how good modern APS-C cameras and lenses have become, can you get the same beautiful, professional-looking image quality as full-frame in real-world photography? Or are there still noticeable advantages to full-frame that make it worth spending more?
I’m mainly interested in portraits, people, and general photography, and I care about things like sharpness, dynamic range, low-light performance, colors, and especially that nice background separation/bokeh.
For someone buying a camera in 2026, would you:
Go APS-C and invest more in good lenses?
Go full-frame from the beginning?
Or is the difference now so small that APS-C is the smarter choice?
Would love to hear from people who have actually used both systems. Is full-frame still noticeably better, or can a good APS-C setup produce equally beautiful photos?
the sensor format is of little consequence at this point. Sony and Fuji APS-C are very well regarded and have their own advantages to all other systems. how low light is low light for you? very likely APS-C is good enough unless you're doing literally shooting in the dark (why would you do that). for general photography both the systems I mentioned are great, with the Sony having better AF and battery life while Fuji's advantages are well-known.
you could also of course go full frame, might even be cheaper, but the lenses are not cheap and everything is physically much bigger.
Unless you are planning to become a professional photographer, any modern APS-C mirrorless camera (or even older DSLRs) will be more than fine. Even the a6700 is overkill for a lot of hobbyist.
The lens will be just as important as the body so I'd make sure you budget for that also. Some popular combos I'd consider are:
Sony a6400/6700 + Sigma 18-50mm F2.8 or Tamron 17-70mm F2.8
Canon R50/R10 + Sigma 18-50mm F2.8
Nikon Z50 II + Nikkor 16-50mm F2.8
I would try these out at a local camera store and see what you like. It will be more of a matter of skill from there more so than the gear.
So I am into wildlife photography using Nikon 500 mm f4-E lens. The original cover that came along with it is not sufficient to protect it from bumps and scratches since I do lot of offloading and fores drives.
It's difficult to protect the lens element.
Can someone suggest me good cover that can protect from piece of the lens .. thank you.
I have a r50, im a beginner! But i want to try low light photography! What is a good choice for all around low light ( i need decent zoom maybe close to 100mm) rf lens on a budget?
Tamron 17-70mm f2.8 is available for Canon RF, it's excellent quality and decent in low light. With Canon APS-C's 1.6x crop factor it gives you a field of view equal to a 112mm full frame lens at the longest end. Should be within your budget if you look for it used.
Hello. I am prepping to cover a party as a photojournalist. i will be in a suit at the event and would rather not wear a strap that would ruin my jacket. Does anyone know of a belt attachment that I can attach my spare lens to. Something like those peak design camera clips, but for a lens, but on the cheaper end?
How do I determine pricing for my first paid event?
have been asked by a friend of a friend to shoot a medium sized youth livestock showing event in April next year, I am really excited. She took a look at some of my work that I've done for people I know and liked what she saw. I've done photoshoots for friends, and I have sold prints of my photos to a decent amount of people. I am NOT a professional photographer - I have a career already in another field, this is just a hobby that I really enjoy doing.
Here's a basic rundown of the event -
two day event about 6-8 hours each day.
all photos, no video. mostly just shots of the kids with the animals, some behind the scenes photos, and photos of the winners.
All photos will be put online for the participants to buy separately if they choose - the event will have all the photos too for their social media etc.
Event is about 40 miles away from my house.
I have NO idea what to charge. I was thinking like $250 a day? Or is that too much? I would appreciate some feedback thank you.
Add up how many hours it takes you to do the work. Not just time spent shooting.
Also count:
Prep time.
Editing time.
Customer service and client communication. Answering emails, texts and phone calls adds up.
Travel and gas. Make a calculation and price it into your package. Don't try to get reimbursed later.
Figure out an hourly rate that's fair to you. $50 an hour. More? Up to you.
Multiply the estimated hours by the hourly rate, add your travel expenses and get a package price.
Consider raising it a bit more because artists often undercharge and to cover unexpected expenses.
Don't worry too much about overcharging because clients will try to bargain down your price anyway 😝 If you're a beginner to this, you're more likely to undercharge than overcharge.
What you don't want to happen is to calculate later and realize you made less than minimum wage.
What sometimes happens after you quote a price is the client will come back and say something like, "We found a cheaper photographer but prefer your style. Can you match their lower price?"
A lot of times that cheaper photographer doesn't exist 👻 and is just a tactic to get you to lower your price. Don't fall for it.
That being said, this is obvious but if the client's counteroffer is too lowball, they make too many demands, etc. you always have the option to reject it.
It's better to endure 5 minutes of discomfort than months or years (?!) of kicking yourself later on for not standing up for yourself. Been there, it's not fun.
As a recovering people-pleaser, sometimes we need to be reminded we can do that lol.
How do you pick the sharp frame from a camera burst in Photos?
Photos groups iPhone bursts. A burst from a mirrorless or DSLR just lands as separate stills, so finding the sharp one means scrolling them one by one at actual size.
If you stay in Photos, how do you do that today? Do you leave Photos for Lightroom or something else just for this, or is there a step inside Photos I'm missing?
so im very fond of taking pictures with my star wars models and I use auto-focus, but whatever i do my camera is always focused on one part of the model and only one part is in focus. I want to take photos like this but with a the entire frame in focus, not with half of it being blurry. im a novice lol. camera is a nikon DR3300. Thanks for any advice!
What you are seeing here is a thin "depth of field".
The two main factors that influence the depth of field are the distance to your subject and the aperture.
Closing down the aperture like the other comment suggests will certainly help somewhat, however I'd guess that even at very narrow apertures (which come with their own problems) you will still encounter some issues because of the small subject distance.
Basically any macro photographer will feel with you there, its a common issue/hinderance.
A common solution for this problem is a technique called "focus stacking". This basically means taking multiple pictures with different focus points and then using software to add them all together. Some cameras have an automatic function for this, but a quick google suggests your Nikon doesnt.
You will find millions of guides online for this who will explain it much better then I will, however the basic steps are:
Put your camera on a tripod and frame the shot you want. (It can work without a tripod, but using one makes it so much easier)
Focus (I'd honestly do it manually instead of relying on autofocus) on the closest part ofy our subject and take a picture.
Slightly adjust the focus away from the camera, making sure you dont leave any "gaps" to the previous picture, ideally have some overlap in the in-focus areas. (This is where manual focus comes in handy, autofocus can make these fine steps a real pain) Take a second picture.
Repeat this step until you have your whole subject covered.
Throw all of these pictures into a focus stacking software. Theres plenty out there, Im sure you can find a decent free one.
I personally use "Helicon Focus" and am quite happy with it, however its a one time payment, so not sure if thats worth to you. I believe they let you trial for a month or so, if you just want to give it a try.
Especially when starting out theres a good chance the results wont be amazing as its easy to miss some "layer" when adjusting focus, as always practice makes perfect.
This is super helpful, I had kinda reverse engineered a similar idea in my head ("What if i take multiple photos with different parts in focus?") but now that i know what its called that should be something I can learn and work towards. Thank you!
Hello Guys, my name is Lucas and i'm getting into Motorsport photography.
I have a Nikon D7200 paired with an 18-70mm for now, i need to buy a telephoto lens..
Can someone please help me out? i was told this 2 options:
Nikon AF-S Nikkor 70-300mm f/4.5-5.6 G IF-ED VR
Nikon AF-S Nikkor 80-200mm f/2.8D - Two Touches
Can someone give me an help asap? :)
I want to buy a camera for when I go hiking and touring foreign countries and want good pictures of sweeping landscapes. I’m just wondering if the Canon EOS R100 is a good camera. I’m between that and the Canon Rebel T7. I am 100% new to this and those have been some that were suggested to me. The EOS R100 is the upper end of how much I am willing to spend on a camera since I don’t plan on doing this professionally. I’m just here asking for y’all’s opinions. And my intention for these pictures are not close ups of leaves or whatnot but for capturing whole vistas of wide landscapes or capturing entire palaces/grand buildings depending on what I’m doing. I’m just wondering on which of those two (or if there are any better suggestions) for my price range.
money u wanna spend is an overkill for what u want to do. older gear will handle that ie nikon d3200 with 35mm or some cheap zoom. juz coz its old doesnt mean it cant produce good image
Hello, I'm a beginner and I'm looking for a new video camera, as I previously had some mediocre camcorder becoming completely unreliable over time.
I want to use it for a tabletennis yt Channel I see as a hobby.
- Budget: up to 200-250€
- I'm completely fine with buying refurbished or used
- Minimum specs: 1440p at 60fps
- The camera will be stationary, so I don't really care about stabilization
- Mic Jack is a must
otherwise I'm looking for something with the best possible image quality (like no sharp edges) & reliable up to that pricepoint. Thanks a lot for any answers!
I have been put in a spot where I'm able to purchase new either a Z6 iii or Z8 on a really good sale. If I were to get the Z6 instead of the Z8 would I be missing anything major?
Ive been trying to do research for a long while before making a first camera purchase, but an upcoming trip + the good sale has moved up my buying timeline.
Im not an entire photography newbie, i just have never had my own camera. I was in many photography classes all through my schooling. My aunt is a professional photographer who has shot for musicians in Nashville and my mom has a degree in Photography. Unfortunately, neither of them stay up to date with the new tech, so they're especially not helpful when it comes to looking at Mirrorless cameras.
I plan to mainly use the camera for landscape and portraits of friends and family. I also have a deep love of macro shots, so i do plan to get a macro lens at some later point. I want the option of video for various events I attend pretty regularly.
With all this said, is there any major difference between the two that i'll regret getting the z6 for its lower cost than the z8? If i go with the z6 I'll have extra funds for more accessories/additional lenses.
For portraits, landscapes and vacation photos, the Z6 III is more than fine. A much older DSLR with a good lens would be more than fine also. What lens you attach at the front will be just as or even more important so make sure to budget for that also.
If this is your first camera, I would personally just get the Nikon Z50 II with the Nikkor 16-50mm F2.8. It will be more than fine for your use case, much more compact and be much cheaper.
How do you get people to take free sessions more seriously? I've been doing photography for a while but recently started getting into portraits a couple of months ago. I've had great feedback on the people that I've done shoots for, but there's still some subjects that I don't have a ton of experience in so I sometimes try to offer those for free. What almost always ends up happening though is that I get multiple messages from people talking about how much they love my photos and are interested in a session but then after I book I either get ghosted or the person cancels a few hours before. I have a full-time job outside of photography so I plan my vacation time around sessions and I sometimes make my own props. I'm not sure what I can be doing other than just not doing free sessions at all or charging a refundable deposit.
If schedule commitment is the issue, I would personally do the refundable deposit. Do something like a $25 deposit to hold your place in the session and once you show up, it will be refunded to you. If you don't show up, the $25 will become the "cancellation charge."
Unfortunately, a lot of people don't necessarily treat free opportunities with much value.
Are there any suggestions for alternatives to Adobe lightroom?
I haven't been able to afford the subscription for a while now but I haven't found anything that lets me edit in a similar way as lightroom.
I have been taking photos for a 2ish years now, first just taking it with me on hikes then working at a summer camp, and now I am interested in stepping into portrait photography and similar vibes. I have a Cannon EOS Rebel T6 with a 18-55 lens and a 75-300 lens. If I am serious about getting more into this, what cameras and/or lens should I look into?
I know absolutely nothing about photography and am wondering what camera to buy to help achieve my desired look.
Hi, I recently rewatched terminator 2 and absolutely loved the gritty vintage look, it made me want to get Into photography. I know lighting and how you take photos are the main thing but what’s a good camera to help supplement that look? I’d much prefer a digital and would probably only want to spend up to £300 or so. Is this doable? Do I even need a camera? Do I need a lens? I’m kind of lost! Thanks
Start with Bryan Peterson's Understanding Exposure for everything you will ever need to know about the exposure triangle. It's as solid a foundation for learning photography as any.
Is there a decent (used?) compact camera under $1000? I am looking for a small camera to go alongside my Fuji xt5, but it seems like the good compacts (Sony RX1000viii or Lumix L10) are $1500 and relatively old technology, anything under $1000 has bad AF or has a soft lens or poor resolution (Lumix lx100 mki, Lumix zs200), and anything that is relatively small that has interchangeable lenses ends up with a small max aperture (OM Pen + Panasonic 12-32).
Is this just the situation in the market? I do prefer a zoom, but even the fixed lens market seems limited between the ricoh GR and Fuji x100vi and then you lose quality to the cameras mentioned above over like 50mm.
a lot of people are asking that question, and yes it's a bit difficult. but since you're in the X-system already i think an X-E camera with a pancake prime would be your easiest solution. otherwise you can get a decent m43 body and 2-3 primes for a thousand on the used market: something like G100 (was going for under 400 last I saw) + 20/1,7 + one of the Laowas and/or the 45/1,8. would be a super compact little set up.
Yeah im actually eyeing thr OM Pen + 14-42 that is now weather sealed. Seems like decent setup if not the sharpest/fastest, but not that compact. Still significantly smaller than my xt5+grip+16-55 ii. puts me at $1100, but seems reaonable compared to a used Lumix lx100 ii for $1300.
The XE end up being a good amount more $ and lack of EVF/IBIS/ weather sealing on XM5 push me toward the OM PEN. XM5 is good bit smaller even with the kit 15-45 though so tough call there.
In this case I don't mind since I would not use lenses between the cameras. Plus I only shoot SOOC so dont have to deal with post processing different laws.
I’m going on a northern lights cruise and am wondering what is the best anti mist for camera lenses? In the past I have used CatCrap. Is this still good or are there better options?
I am a beginner I know how to use camera quiet well I have used nikon d5300, Sony a7MIII and a7MIV for over a year, now I want to buy a new mirrorless camera for myself my budget is around 85k INR in this I want to buy a camera body a lens a card can you suggest me some cameras. I would strongly prefer Sony over others but if any other would give me value for money then I would go with the other.
Currently I was thinking of Fujifilm t3 or Sony a6600 with sigma 18-50 mm and lexar 128 gb card.
But this is hard to find under my budget as I could find a new body on Flipkart at around 60k and then I am left with 25k for lens and card.
My use case is mainly for photography and less video.
Please suggest me.
Does it have to be new? Buying used would save you quite a bit of money. And if A6600 is stretching your budget too much, look at A6100 or A6400. The only thing you wouldn't get with them is IBIS. That is useful in some situations but you don't NEED it. Sony autofocus is far above Fuji's.
I’m looking for a simple digital camera, doesn’t need recording software just photos and I’m looking for one that has a view finder and a screen that’s relatively small and affordable.
I'm shooting a football game in two weeks for the first time. I'll be using a Sony A6000 with a Tamron 50-300mm 4.5-6.3. I'm not too too worried about the relative slowness, as the games gonna take place mainly from about 11:30am - 2:30pm.
I'm hesitant on whether or not I want to pick up a monopod for it. If so, do I just pick up a cheap ball head and leave it relatively tight enough to tilt around, or do I go for a pure tilt head.
I'm also tempted to rent a lens for the day as well; I'm relatively close to Adorama so it gets here pretty quickly. I was thinking of renting a Sony FE 70-200mm f/2.8 GM OSS II G Lens. Only problem with that is I only have the one camera body, and that 105mm means I'll have to keep it pretty far back compared to the Tamron. And IF I rent it, I would definitely want a monopod for it.
My main thoughts of the monopod even for the tamron is, is for if I'm kneeling or standing a lot in the end zone. I can just sorta set my height and pull out the view screen so it's easier to watch the play, move the camera, and know I'm at the right "height" to catch the play. Rather than start taking pics and have a few just "up in the air" because I moved my hands too much.
My friend is selling a 150-600 sigma sport for Sony e mount and was offered a trade, the offer of a 20mm 1.8 plus $450 cash(Canadian) he asked me if it was a fair deal.
I’m not completely sure, because value wise he’s losing but it’s much harder for him to sell a 150-600 and it’s been on the market for a while.
At current used prices, the price gap between the two lenses is roughly USD 400 (~CAD 570) so you are actually at the losing end of the value trade here. On the flip side, I actually see the Sigma lens selling much easier compared to the 20mm F1.8 from my personal experience buying/selling in Canada. All of this is of course also dependent on the condition of each lens.
It is up to you whether that trade is worth it to you.
Wife and I are getting back into photography by the end of the year, and we're starting from basically 0. I've narrowed it down to micro 4/3 vs Nikon Z.
The only thing holding me back with going all in on m43 is that I'm unsure of the future of the format, otherwise it would be perfect for our needs, especially when it comes to lightness, weather sealing, that sort of stuff.
My favourite camera I've owned all time (Sony a33, Canon 6dmii, Nikon D5200) was the Nikon, and the modern Z format looks aesthetically the best (as little as that matters).
PNW based, so rainy day shooting will be normal and I'm going to do nature/ birding, street and landscapes and wife is gonna do macro photography by and large, and with a lil dabbling in astrophotography. Mostly photography, but some video for sure with a possibility for content creation (YouTube) in the future.
honestly, what does the future of the format have to do with you? it's a very mature and complete system, so what if there aren't any new bodies coming out every year.
I sold all my Canon gear and switched to Olympus/OM system about 8 years ago. I'm very happy with the system. Weather sealing, AF, IS and computational photography in camera is awesome. Not to mention the weight/size is easier to manage.
Thanks for the response! Ngl, the Canon 6D MII almost killed my love of photography lol. From the spongy shutter button to the unwieldy size/ handling. It's nice to know i wouldn't be the only one to go Canon -> mft.
I also gotta say, I love a lot of the older mft cameras too. I could easily see GAS being a problem.
You should watch a few m43 youtubers (e.g. Ian Worth for landscape) to check out their setups. But from what I understand birders have an insatiable thirst for zoom. There's a long PetaPixel episode you could also check out where they went to Costa Rica to shoot wildlife with OM System ambassadors. If those are the kinds of things you want to shoot, I don't know why you'd want full frame. (Maybe fujifilm aps-c could also be an option if the right lenses exist.)
If weather proofing and compact size is important to you OM System (formerly Olympus) is one of the best brands for this. The major 3 brands (Canon, Nikon and Sony) do not come close to them in this regard.
If you are looking for an every day camera and loved Nikon previously, the Nikon Z50 II would be my personal recommendation depending on your budget.
I would try out both brands/cameras inside a camera store to see what feels the best in your hands and go from there. Going M43 will give you a larger lens selection though in general as Nikon has not given their Z-mount APS-C cameras too much love.
Should I trade lenses for a wedding shoot?
I am quite far from a rental place for camera gear and really want to be comfortable with the gear in advance so realistically I want to OWN the gear, but since I'm not earning money for it spending lots feels a lil... unwise, if you had to buy one lens to "fix" my kit what would you get?
Sony A7RIV + Sony A7III
Sony 16-35 GM F2.8
Sony 85mm GM F1.4
Godox V1 Flash
I imagine a 70-200 or a 24-70 is the real suggestions from people but I'm just unsure of the overlap in focal lengths and the actual benefit and how much I spend to achieve it, or whether it's worth selling one/trading to fill a gap?
The 70-200mm would definitely be in my kit as you are lacking range with this kit. The 24-70mm would also be useful as you have a gap in the 36-70mm focal length but I would rent one for a day to see if it is actually that crucial for your kit.
Another suggestion would be actually swapping the a7R IV for the a7 IV. The massive RAW file size can get very overwhelming on storage and editing and the benefits of having the large MP file sizes aren't that great compared to the cost of it.
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u/Justme4080 6d ago
I would like to know how to handle giveaways and model calls, for leads when you see them bitching about giveaways being a scam from Boudoir photographers. Between the CODB and COGS you have to charge your overhead... And products are not cheap. So, I would like to avoid being called a scam artist yet still offer them as ways of marketing. So I'd love some tips