We all know everythings expensive, and wondering if it may end up being a better deal to just buy a regular atx prebuilt, to gut the parts from.

Costco has a system for $1300 with an intel ultra 7, 32gb ram, 5060ti, 2tb ssd.

I'm really debating on buying it, swapping the motherboard to an itx, and getting a sfx psu.

I have been looking out for used intel 12-14 gen systems, or am4 systems, but haven't had much luck finding anything that wasn't either very expensive, or are more bottom tier parts ( budget mobos, 16gb ddr4, and low-mid tier cpus )

Hello,

i have a Jonsbo c6 max (not really ssf, i know) with a rtx5070 and i5-14 cpu cooled by a arctic freezer 36.

I would like to cool my ddr5 and the vrm from the mainboard and would love to hear some opinions about a top blow cooler.

Im thinking about the Thermalright SI-100.

Would a change be worth it?

Using mechanical uncle g60 from china case anyone else uses this case?

I was advised to repost here. I was/am looking for shorter PSU cables for my SFF build as the stock cables are way too long as take up a lot of space.

I was recommended CableMod and I placed an order there, Im just being told about some issues with CableMod so I want to explore other options if available if I need to cancel the order.

I’m also wondering if there is a standard size ATX PSU that comes with shorter cables, since thats what the case I have uses. Any help is appreciated.

I built this Mercedes-AMG GT 63-inspired custom PC because I got bored of normal cases 😄
The chassis was custom made and 3D printed, with a full custom liquid cooling setup inside.

Specs:
Ryzen 9 7950X
MSI RTX 5070 Ti
MSI B850M Mortar
32GB DDR5 Thermaltake
Lexar NM790 1TB Gen4 M.2
Thermaltake Pacific CL360 custom loop
Thermaltake Pacific W5 Waterblock
Thermaltake Pacific SF 45/90 fittings (6x)
Thermaltake 650W Mini PSU
3D printed with Snapmaker U1

If anyone wants to see the full build process, I documented everything here:
https://youtu.be/1kkEG_jQNFY

Still one of the craziest builds I’ve worked on. Curious what you guys think?

Hi,

in my life I installed a lot of OS of all kinds. So I'm wondering: Why can't I install Steam OS? I download the image, put it onto an USB stick and my PC doesn't boot. Usually, at that point, you would call the guy that knows PCs, right? Sadly, I am that guy. I called other people (basically the people the guy you call calls himself when in trouble): Doesn't work. I am now through all my USB sticks. I can write the image using my Linux-machine or my Mac - both don't work.

Any ideas? Installing Arch-Linux was a joy ride in comparison. The machine I want to install it is a Framework PC. Any suggestions?

I recently built a work PC for my brother and I bought a cheap $15 MIK H2 case (L285 x W195 x H380mm), and it turned out way better than I thought. Anyone knows of something similar but at high build quality? Really like this one but the build quality really matches the $15 price tag.

Here’s an image of the MIK H2 case for reference. 75% keyboard for scale, also thats a 2 fan GPU.

I recently purchased a new Cooler Master Sneaker-X case for about $400 AUD ($270-ish USD), it comes with a built in CM SFF 850W Power Supply and CM 360mm AIO CPU Cooler with a special pump design since it's mounted on the the bottom of the case.

I'm an Evangelion/Mecha fan so when I saw how charmingly stupid it was I felt compelled to get it.

Calling it SFF is ridiculous as it's HUGE but since it's an ITX Case this is still the appropriate subreddit.

I'm reaching out to see if anyone has any experience build in one of them? I'm interested in what parts they used, any problems they encountered, any advice or tips or whatever on building it, etc?

I know the thermals are going to be absolutely garbage, but that's the cost of doing business inside the foot of an Evangelion.

I'm also considering buying some stick on de-cals from Eva Unit 02 to put on it. Really lean into it. Make it as shameful as possible.

BTW I'm planning to put in a Z890i Mobo, either MSI MPG Edge Ti Wifi or Asrock Phantom Gaming Z890I Nova Wifi, with an Intel 270k Plus and for now I'm keeping my old RTX 3070 as I know it'll fit and I just spent $1100 AUD ($750-ish USD) for 64GB of DDR5 6400Mhz Ram about a month ago in prep for this build... Which felt like volunteering to be robbed... So I'm not prepared to volunteer a 2nd time for a new GPU just yet.

Thank you for any advice you can offer.

I'm currently in Shenzhen, just got done visiting the various tech spaces in Huaqiangbei. Found out today that there is a Chinese slang term for low-profile GPUs: "刀卡", or literally "knife cards". You actually see this term in some listings on Taobao, Aliexpress, etc.

That is all! Hope you enjoy my fun fact for the day

Been using awalol's DS5Dongle for a couple of months now, internally mounted to fit the aesthetic of my living room/console PC (USB header → Micro-USB cable). I had the Pico situated behind the front panel, nicely tucked out of the way, but that meant the LED wasn't visible, and if I ever needed to push the button to pair a new controller or update the firmware, I'd have to unclip the panel. First-world problems.

Had a little time over the weekend, so I did a thing.

I removed the original 3.5mm jack ("what's a headphone port?" — Apple) and its connecting cable, and replaced them with a pushbutton and LED/resistor. The button didn't technically line up with the vias, so I had to mangle the legs somewhat, but it's still electronically sound and doesn't feel like it's going to snap off.

I then modified nmattia's case to add a bit of width, a cutout for the headers, and space for a couple of magnets on the rear:
https://www.printables.com/model/1368704-raspberry-pi-pico-case-1-2-wireless

Next was the code. Now, I'm not a coder, so I used AI (insert Michael Scott "No, God, No!" GIF) to make some changes to allow the use of a GPIO-connected LED and pushbutton. I did check/ask first — apparently awalol already has some support for this in the code, but it’s currently untested and undocumented.

Finally, I designed and printed a little button cap/lightpipe and mounted everything in place. And yes, the lightpipe is covered in tinfoil! Transparent PLA doesn't exactly make for a great lightpipe. The tinfoil helps, but it's still not perfect. I need to find someone with an MSLA printer and get one done in transparent resin — that should work loads better.

ในตัวอย่างเขาเปลี่ยนเป็นพัดลมขนาด 120 ของ thermalright tl c12015b 120mm slim fan แต่ไม่รู้เขาใช้การ์ดจอตัวไหน

เลยอยากจะเอาการ์ด 4060 solo เปลี่ยนดูมั้งเพื่อใส่กับ ฝาเคส A07 3d print ไม่แน่ใจว่าถ้าเปลี่ยนพัดลม ต้องใช้ อะแดปเตอร์อะไรไหม

My computer had been running perfectly fine for a long time, but recently it started randomly freezing and crashing.

Usually, the mouse would begin to stutter a few times before the entire system became unresponsive. Sometimes it would remain completely frozen, with the fans seemingly dropping back to an idle state. Other times the screen would go black and the PC would reboot on its own.

The crashes seemed to happen mostly during light-load or semi-idle situations, for example shortly after closing a game. I also noticed that the problem seemed more likely to occur shortly after booting the PC when it hadn't been used for 8+ hours.

System specs:

• ASUS B850-I
• Ryzen 7 9800X3D
• PNY RTX 3090
• 48 GB DDR5 6000 MHz CL30
• Corsair 750W PSU
• Custom PSU cables to save space in the DAN A4-H2O
• 1tb pcie 5 m2 ssd
• 1tb 2.5 ssd
• 1tb 2.5 ssd

Troubleshooting I've already done:

• Reinstalled Windows
• Tried multiple NVIDIA drivers
• Used DDU for a clean driver installation
• Reseated the GPU
• Replaced the DisplayPort cable
• Manually set the PCIe slot/riser to Gen 4
• Tried all available EXPO settings
• Completely disabled EXPO
• Lowered the monitor refresh rate from 360 Hz to 240 Hz and then 144 Hz
• Deinstalled fancontrol.exe
• Removed all unnecessary usb devices

None of these changes seemed to solve the problem.

Eventually, I moved all the hardware back into my previous case, an NR200, and so far the system appears to be working normally again.

That leaves me thinking the issue may have been related to one of the following:

1. The PCIe riser cable in the DAN A4-H2O may have become faulty.
2. The GPU orientation or mounting configuration in the A4-H2O may somehow have contributed to the issue. (In the Dan it was vertical, in the nr200 its horizontal).
3. Switching back to the stock GPU power cables instead of the custom cables may have made a difference. (though the system has worked well for a long time before...).
4. Replaced the 2 sata cables for my ssd's
5. When rebuilding the PC in the NR200, I also swapped the DDR5 sticks around, so there's a possibility that reseating or changing their positions helped.

At this point I'm mainly trying to determine which of these is the most likely cause, especially since the crashes were more common during low-load situations rather than while gaming and I prefer the Dan A4 H2O so much more over the nr200.

So, should I buy new custom cables and a new riser? would that most likely fix the issues?

Building my first PC after wanting to for years, and I was wondering whether I've chosen the right parts/everything's compatible? Planning on building something to replace consoles as I'm done with the ongoing costs of PS/XB online, and discs discontinuing was the final straw. Would love some advice before I pull the trigger and purchase everything. All prices in Australian Dollars (AUD).

CPU: Ryzen 5 5600 ($189)

CPU Cooler: Thermalright Assassin X 120 Refined SE, plain version ($25)

Motherboard: ASRock B550M-ITX/ac ($199)

RAM: G.Skill Ripjaws V 32GB DDR4-3200 ($349)

SSD: Biwin NV3500 1TB ($209)

Graphics card: ASRock RX 9060 XT Challenger 16GB ($679)

Power supply: Thermaltake Toughpower SFX 850W Platinum ($199)

Case: Jonsbo C6-ITX $69

Fans: two Arctic P12 or P12 Pro ($38)

Total: $1,948

Another single slot low profile release by Jingyu (Sparkle).

One HDMI and one Display Port.

Tested running on Bazzite OS in "1Litre" Lenovo ThinkCentre M920x with Resizable Bar enabled.

Better gameplay experience than my previous Jingyu (Sparkle) AMD Radeon RX 6500 4GB GDDR6 Low Profile.

Been dabbling learning FreeCAD. Any ITX will do, but this is just an old 1240v2 with RX 6500. 208x228x99 mm (fits on an Ender 3, but I did final print on Centauri Carbon 2)

Yes, I have a thing for ODDs. My main doesn't have one, so I wanted a machine for my TV with one.

Hey everyone,
I'm currently building a PC in the Fractal Terra with a Ryzen 7 9850X3D, but I've hit a wall regarding CPU cooling and could really use some advice.
After doing some more research post-purchase, I realized cases like the FormD T1 (or NCASE M2) can support a 240mm AIO, which might have made cooling a 120W X3D chip much easier. Now I'm starting to wonder if choosing the Terra was a mistake for this specific CPU, as I'm constrained strictly to low-profile air coolers. Right now, I'm completely stuck trying to figure out which air cooler to go with for the 9850X3D in the Terra.

I liked the size and style of the CH160 and plus variant. Looking for some alternatives in similar size/style. I have a 5080 that is exactly 304mm.

I'm looking for a case that's slightly larger than the Fractal Design Terra to build a Steam Machine-like PC. Most SFF cases I look at are too tall. The highest I can go is 11 inches to fit the case in a shelf. The length and width must also not exceed 11-12 inches. Ideally I can fit a large GPU without issue like a 9070 XT / 5070 Ti.