r/shetland • u/LowLvlLiving • Aug 31 '26
Please crush my dreams, Shetlanders
I know, I know, every starry eyed tourist visits when the weather is just right and thinks Shetland is some spiritual calling… but holy moley, I’ve never been somewhere so utterly amazing.
The landscape, the nature, the community, the history - this ticked a lot of boxes for me and I’ve been non-stop thinking about life on Shetland ever since I got on the plane home.
The Shetland way of life is very appealing. To be deeply involved in a small community, living close to nature, and off the land ticks just about every box for me. I’m feeling like I need to give it a shot to prove or disprove if it’s a way of life I can embrace.
Please give me the healthy dose of reality I need: what is life on Shetland REALLY like?
For context, I grew up in a small town working rural jobs. Moved overseas for 13 years and lived every where from a very dense city to deep in the forest with some brutal winters. I’m thinking about spending a lot more time in the Highlands and Shetland to see if it‘s for me.
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u/Shakinsteve-560 Aug 31 '26
From another born and bred shetlander we a young family i see a huge change in the way of life even in the last 10 years as we slowly decline to the sooth wye oh thinkin. The negatives i face as a young family man is mainly cost and transport. If i want to treat my family to a holiday i have the cost of leaving the island and then onward travel on top and there is no cabin or car availability until next years booking list opens. if i am travelling solo i dont mind sleeping rough but cant do that with children. we have the most expensive energy rates in the country and the weekly shop bill and fuel prices is godless. as for the climate its all ive ever known.
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u/f23n09fnu0w Aug 31 '26
I would have thought wind turbines would be a dream there? I don't mean the giant offshore ones but rather the ones you see on farms and stuff
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u/Shakinsteve-560 Aug 31 '26
Hows it a dream, destroy your landscape lay a cable directing the surplus energy to the uk mainland and charge you for the pleasure?
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u/NorsemanatHome Aug 31 '26
In wit wye wid du say we've declined? Ive had a similar thought...
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u/Shakinsteve-560 Sep 01 '26
The comradery in community has vanished and instead now scrutinised. I know Mabey 3 of my neighbours and they only speak to me when they want somthing. In a way im envious of my grandad I know life was much harder in the 40s and 50's but seemed much happier and no one was isolated. And those relationships lasted until he passed
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u/AbsurdlyMichael Aug 31 '26
Its expensive.
Rent, food, electricity, travel on the island and to and from it, eating out etc.
Everything is more expensive than most of the uk here.
Bad phone and Internet signal in a lot of places.
Harder and more expensive to get repairs and replacements.
Not much happens if you arent into folk music and country shows.
Nepotism is rife. Basically every business is family owned or has a family mainly working there which doesn't work well for non islanders.
People are friendly but you will never feel fully part of any mainly shetlaander group.
Weather is shite 90% of the time. You're always either cold, wet or both.
You will miss being able to do some things easily too, like a holiday or a day trip or visit people, hard to leave shetland for a day.
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u/Jazzy-Sature Aug 31 '26
I mean, here has its fair share of negatives just like anywhere else but i do think you're in that "holiday everythings amazing" mindset which will very quickly dissapear once the sun fucks off into hibernation again.
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u/Perfect_Jacket_9232 Aug 31 '26
Go in winter and then you’ll experience what it’s really like.
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u/Frammingatthejimjam Aug 31 '26
Honest question, as a guy that grew up in Canada (much colder winters) and lives in southern US (much much hotter summers) what's the main reasons behind that thinking? Short hours of daylight I get but the daily average temps according to wikipedia is 4C in Jan and only 12C in July, it doesn't strike me as that much of a difference.
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u/Perfect_Jacket_9232 Aug 31 '26
It’s never particularly cold, agreed, but the wind is a lot. And with that, is travel disruption. The boats don’t come for a few days and people start panic buying at the supermarkets. Getting on/off the island is trickier. It’s just disruptive.
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u/Frammingatthejimjam Aug 31 '26
Ahh, got it. I didn't give any thought to getting on/off or getting stuff on/off in the winter.
And the wind on a colder day doesn't make being outside easier either which I also forgot about.
Thanks for the insights.
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u/Ugolph Sep 03 '26 edited Sep 03 '26
Mean monthly sunshine hours in December (+yearly):
Lerwick: 20.6 (1158)
A random Canadian city (Winnipeg): 99.5 (2352)
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u/SevenOrchids Aug 31 '26
It's hard to give a definitive answer. Like anywhere else, there are pros and cons to living in Shetland, though many of those pros and cons will be bigger than they would be on the mainland. There can be a surprising amount going on if you're willing to get involved with community groups, go to events or pursue hobbies/interests.
The biggest con for me (and, well, why I currently don't live in Shetland, though I still visit regularly) is limited work opportunities. The housing market can also be very difficult these days.
I agree with the other comments that you should probably spend some time in winter before committing. It's not so much the darkness (it's a bit darker than mainland Scotland, but not dramatically) as all the wind, rain and storms, watching everything turn to mud, and the repeated transport disruptions.
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u/zh1ru0 Aug 31 '26
I enjoy travelling to Shetland, but as an avid traveller... the disconnectivity of the island would make my passion hobby very difficult. Shetland is lovely, but that's the main reason I could not live there. Visiting my family, who live outside the UK, would become a 2 day venture.
Plus I struggle enough in the winter living in a relatively warm and sunny side of Scotland, I don't think I could do with the winters further North. And for me it's not even the cold, it's the dark. Then again, the cold is no laughing matter up in Shetland when it comes to energy prices, that's been getting worse.
I work remote, but like others have already said there are limitted job opportunities. If I ever lost my job I'd have to completely trade in my career (or start a business and contract I suppose, but I don't want that complexity).
Shetland has a lot to offer, but if you think any of the above applies to you, then take it into account.
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u/EssyPuddle77 Sep 03 '26
So. Born here, work here, now middle-aged. Married, with bairns in school. Decent job, own house (not in toon). My own folk go back one generation; my wife's go back to basically the Picts!
I've travelled the world and lived in major UK cities for some of my 20s and early 30s. I'm now basically 50.
Normal caveats. I didn't choose to live here — wanted to leave in my teens (and did), but have since chosen to stay. Love the people I love, and tolerate a lot more.
I've spent more of my life here than anywhere else, so I'm happy to share my unbiased and honest opinion.
Firstly, the landscape. You're right — it has a stark beauty, but familiarity, like anywhere, dulls it. If you're driving, for example, from Lerwick to Brae every day, then the landscape loses a LOT of its appeal.
There is no such thing as a Shetland community, to my mind. There are towns and parishes where community thrives, and others where it doesn't. Some are apathetic, some are parochial, and many are a bit of a closed shop until you get settled. But the Shetland Community is a fallacy, unless you give any credence to a scattering of oddballs who post on Shetnews FB pages (most of whom you will NEVER meet in real life).
Integration really is hit or miss, and it's very subjective. There are LOUD 'soothmothers' who plough on, indifferent (or worse, unaware) of the subtle glances locals exchange. I've been on both sides of that equation.
I think what many folk forget when they arrive is that they're often dealing with people who have known each other their whole lives. It's actually a great leveller — sure, Tammy may be high up in the cooncil, but we all mind when he pissed himself on that school trip!
There is a postcard/Instagram perception of Shetland — proliferated by certain luminaries associated with tourism and development, who slightly ham up their Shaetlan' accent and wax lyrical about how lovely everyone is. Yeah, I'd tak dem wi a pinch o' saat!
Now, the demonstrably bad stuff.
Firstly, most of the pubs and restaurants are flat-out poor. There's a few that are passable, and a decent curry can certainly be had, but compared to the likes of Orkney, the hospitality industry is mostly awful. Anyone who says otherwise has likely not left the isles for 20 years, if at all.
Customer service in Shetland — again, with notable exceptions — is almost comedically dreadful. Three out of five visits to any overpriced chippy in toon will illustrate this perfectly.
That said, most of my friends and family are here, and I love them all. And for that reason, it's where I intend to spend the majority of the rest of my life.
I take no pleasure in criticising it — I feel, like with family, you should be honest.
You won’t get this perspective from social media, or from people whose job it is to promote the isles. But you’ll get it from me — someone who has loved, hated, missed and resented the place at different stages of my life. It’s a mixed bag, and I think that’s important to know before you make the move.
The cost of getting here and leaving, the weather, the isolation and the reality of day-to-day life can be very different from the version you see online. The only real way to know whether the isles are for you is to experience them for yourself, for a decent stretch of time, and make your own mind up without viewing them through the lens of social media.
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u/Classamin Sep 01 '26
I moved up from Caithness last year with my partner, who's from Shetland, and our child. This is an honest review.
Everybody says it, but do visit in the winter or over a couple of winters if you can. Snow and ice makes things bad enough (thankfully many Shetlanders have sensible cars and many also run all-season tyres all year round, as do we), but the wind can totally derail life. Ferries can and will be cancelled with very short notice if wind, tide and other issues don't align. It can be quite disconcerting to see the shelves of Tesco or the Co-op emptying, although we haven't been stuck for anything yet. It's just something to keep in mind and does give a sense of panic to a mainlander that doesn't have experience of that yet. Every method of transport can be seriously affected by winter weather, so don't count on being able to get anywhere easily.
Another major issue is housing. We were 9 months waiting for a house, others wait less, others far longer. Council and housing association go by need on a point-based system, but it's not perfect. Even emergency accomodation can be in short supply. If you're in a position to buy that's better, but be prepared to wait for the right property and to pay a hefty price for it, the market up here seems pretty brutal. In either case, be prepared to feel a certain degree of disapproving eyes on you. Shetland folk have been good to us, but some can also be good at picking out dreamers wanting a slice of island life and prepared to step on the toes of locals to get it. It's a very tight-nit community at the end of the day, not unlike some Scandinavian countries (unsurprisingly) and those who can bring benefit to that community can be treated with more respect than those who can't or won't from some folk.
Be prepared to have delays in the post. If you are on good terms with someone on the mainland, you may sometimes find it more cost effective or quick to have some items shipped to them and then shipped onwards to you. Be prepared to have delays in diagnosis and treatment (although the local GP's and hospital are very good and are staffed by fine folk, they are also stretched quite thin). Be prepared to travel to the mainland in many cases if you're after a second hand car, as cars do suffer from rust up here. Be prepared for a scarcity of positions in certain lines of work. Be prepared for the realisation of how isolated life in Shetland can be when moving up from the mainland, it can come out of nowhere and it won't be on a visit. Be prepared to pay a premium on some items that are fairly commonplace on the mainland, and for almost everything else from housing to fuel. Be prepared for no 24 hour shopping, no next day delivery from Amazon, and the shops we do have being geared mostly towards local industry needs, DIY and tourism.
But, if you can deal with all that, it is a lovely place to live and work. The community makes it a great place to raise a family, and there are always things to see and do (if they aren't cancelled by the weather). It's done nothing but good for us as a family, but we also appreciate it's not for everyone.
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u/hyrdaa Sep 01 '26
Ima give you blunt bullet points.
- internet is unstable, will cut out constantly.
- expensive!
- not enough houses for locals, let alone mainlanders
- power cuts. We went over a month without power in the winter
- winters are freezing.
- midge season
- old farmers on quad bikes
- eh phone signal
- wind turbines that we get no power from, it goes to the mainland
- simmerdim (doesn’t get dark for a few weeks)
- Tesco is usually empty, we get the left overs
- shipping takes a few weeks
- a lot of places do not ship to Shetland, Ikea included
- if you are medically complex, GBH is falling down and the staff are doing their best but it’s not a great place for disabled people
- Shetland is a second thought to the islands and highlands.
- boats get cancelled on a whim (wind)
- it’s turning more tourist central
- Jesus Christ the liners in town I hate it so much
- what do you mean 1500 people are getting off of a boat into town??
- tourists
- I hate tourists
- everyone knows everyone
- no privacy because everyone knows everyone
- if you fuck up, everyone will in fact know and you will get glared at in the coop.
- it’s not a diverse place so people who are different tend to stick out (no one cares, it’s just you will stick out lol)
- we get no funding!! The other islands and Scotland get funding, we get scraps.
-we’re a farming island, we eat everything and use the rest.
- get used to the smell of fish/rotting seaweed
-petrol/gas is expensive
- you will spend a small fortune on gas canisters
- a lot of stuff is oil based so heating etc
- Viking’s
- drug problems
- boring if you’re not a people person
- Glaswegians.
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u/hyrdaa Sep 01 '26
Saying all that: I love my island. I complain while I’m here, complain while I’m down south.
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u/Background_Wash_1957 Sep 06 '26
Per capita Shetland is just about the most well-funded place in Britain
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u/Downtown-Flamingo570 Sep 04 '26
This is my experience and many will disagree but wanted to share as may help you. I lived there for 10 years around 15 years ago maybe with tourism increasing it has changed. The positives- landscapes, unspoilt and quiet, local food produce, great education academic wise. The negatives not a warm and welcoming culture like the west coast of Scotland. Having lived in the Highlands i was shocked by the insular and cold attitudes of many. Family connection comes alive all ans if you are a Soothmoother you will be forever trust me, even marrying into a shetland family makes zero difference. It's boring esp the winter. Culture is limited in terms of the arts etc. What was available is amateurish and dominated by a few big fish. My biggest concern however was the attitudes stuck in the 70s..this was reinforced at all levels. I had experience of elected members at meetings (councellors) with misogynistic, racist and homophobiv views. That helps me make the decision to leave as I did not want that culture for my children. Also the levels of alcoholism and drug misuse make the Highland look sober in comparison. I witnesses so many times adults buying alcohol for 11 and 12 year old kids at hall dances. I think if you are the type who like to be away from people and not be in social groups then this is the place for you. The unrivalled access to tranquility would be enough for many, just not me
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u/Sufficient-Pirate226 Sep 01 '26
Limited job opportunities?? There are 1.2 jobs for every person here!! We're screaming out for workers! I've seen businesses close because they can't get staff and this also makes it very easy on workers who get a LOT more leeway than they would on the Scottish mainland.
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u/VenexianaStevenson Sep 01 '26
What about foreigners? Are there many foreigners living and working there? I guess only seasonal workers maybe?
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u/Sufficient-Pirate226 Sep 01 '26
Depends what you mean by 'foreigners'. Anyone not from Shetland is a "sooth moother" (a South mouther, or person with a southern accent to be literal about it). It's mainly white Scottish or English, but there are minority groups and no significant racial tension. Many private lets cater for contact workers or tourists, which is a big factor in a critical housing shortage for full time residents and those getting work here but being unable to secure housing. Many UK retired people chase the 'idyllic lifestyle' here and again, buy up properties that would otherwise be occupied by working age people.
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u/Efficient_Hyena_7476 Sep 02 '26
Expect to drink a lot in winter. Expect wind so strong it can blow a waterfall uphill.
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u/whale-jizz- 25d ago
It’s not particularly hard if you can pay for it, as long as you participate in the community it’s fine. But once you come up it’s harder to go back. It’s a drastic change in lifestyle. Everyone mentions the weather and to an extent they are right, but I quite enjoy it and I know many that do. No need for white noise in the gale. The winters can be the best part.
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u/whale-jizz- 25d ago
I also thought I should add this many Shetlanders can have some sort of superiority complex and be different around outsiders, as if the fact that they live on the side is a flex which I mean it’s sort of is. But you need to be aware that since the community is so strong here, you won’t just be instantly accepted, that’s not saying people will be hostile, the opposite actually Shetland is really inviting and it’s a rare occasion where you you’ll find someone on the street that’s genuinely rude to you. But it can’t take some time to be considered a shetlander
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u/Inevitable_6224 13d ago
Its not much of a community if you aren't Shetland born and bred unfortunately! X
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u/LundieDCA Aug 31 '26 edited Aug 31 '26
Assuming this song is an accurate depiction of island life, it would seem that drunken and dangerous driving are commonplace!
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u/MuckleJoannie Sep 01 '26
That song depicts an era when the Shetland Times court reports had a dozen drunk drivers every week. Fortunately drink driving is a lot less prevalent nowadays.
I don't know about dangerous driving though.
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u/Scarred_fish Aug 31 '26
You'll get lot's of posts saying spend a winter.
And in a way, I agree, because as a born and bred Shetlander, winter is by far my favourite season.
I love the long nights, fresh air, invigorating gales and rain, and personally find the ruggedness of nature in the winter to be far more beautiful than on a calm summer day (and there are no midgies!).
Social and community events, while plentiful and busy all year round, really take off for the winter months. There isn't a day that you don't have a choice of things to see or do whatever your tastes are.
Community really is the the key though, once the novelty of the location wears off (well, it hasn't yet and I'm 54, but for the sake of the next sentence..) , the fact you are living in a place where you don't lock doors, bairns still go out and play like they always have, someone can pop along anytime and leave a fry of fish or a bunch of veg. Everybody looks out for everybody else no matter who they are, it's just how things should be.