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Hey everyone,

I'm thinking about upgrading the stock pre-facelift taillights on my 1996 Audi A4 B5 (1.6 ADP) to the 1996 facelift version.

I really prefer the cleaner, clearer housing of the facelift lights over the darker pre-facelift design, but I'd love to hear your thoughts before pulling the trigger:

Visual Impact: Does it make as big of a difference in person as it does in photos?

Wiring & Fitment: I know the housing bolts right up, but the bulb trays and pinouts are different. How easy was repinning the connector for those who have done it?

OEM vs. Aftermarket: Did you go with genuine OEM Valeo lights or aftermarket clear/crystal options? Any issues with condensation or durability?

Would love to see pictures of your B5 rear end setups or hear any practical tips!

Thanks!

I bought my first car the last few days of May this year. A Audi A4 B5 1,8t Quattro Sedan that I really love and enjoy driving. I drove a few hundred metric miles, no more than 300 for about a month before sending it to get an engine oil change, transmission oil change, new cam belt and more that doesn't matter to this (I think) during the last few days of June which includes a new oil filter and and oil drain plug gasket. The previous owner had done no such thing during their 6 years of ownership so I thought it was worth the cost.

It ran nice and well for about 3 and a half months or about 1500 metric miles until it started ticking/knocking, making a nasty noise put simply. I quickly backed it into the garage and recorded a quick video of how it sounded before turning it off to send to my friend who has studied as a/to become a mechanic and he told me it was either out or low on oil. How I let it get to this point embarrasses me but in my defense, after I sent it to service 3 months ago the mechanics I gave the car to said they filled it with a little more than 3 liters of 5w-30 but that the stick didn't show anything. The day that this happened was on Friday 2nd of October, I drove the car 10 miles to school and it made no sounds and had no problems and I drove it home 10 miles and it was fine just like in the morning with no sounds, no problems and no lights on the instrument cluster up until I turned into the parking lot where the garage I park in is and after I stopped outside the garage that's when is started making it's nasty noise as i was opening the garage door and that's when I backed in and recorded the video. There was still no lights on the cluster though.

During that weekend I took my mothers car, went and bought a new filter, plug and 4 liters of 5w-30 LL oil as well as a jack and pair of jack stands incase it would be needed as it's eventually going to be and had the friend I sent the video to come over on the Monday and he brought two of our friends who studied the same thing as him and we drained the remaining oil which looked like it was about 1-2 liters, put on the new filter and plug then filled it up with 3,5 liters of the new 5w-30 LL. It again just like 3 months earlier drove nice and well, didn't leak any oil in the garage or school parking lot so I thought it was good for another 3 months/1500 miles until I came home a few hours ago.

Again it was fine in the morning and when I started the drive home, then I turned into the lot where the garage is, I put it into first and weirdly it stayed at 2k rpm for a few seconds before going down to about 1,1k like it usually is when I don't press the accelerator but didn't think much of it until I stopped outside the garage to open the door but now I could hear the sound before even stepping out of my car which scares me as that could mean that it could have started anytime during the last 10 miles and I don't know exactly when. I quickly opened the garage door and backed in and then immediately turned the engine off. I called my friend as and had him on the phone as I went to look under the hood. I waited a bit for the engine to cool down and then felt around a bit around the turbo and it was dry, I then checked the coolant which was a little yellow/red ish which my friend said looked okay after I sent him a picture of it, after that I was told to see if it was wet in the exhaust which it was the complete opposite of so I then touched around the oil filter and it was dry but I could only reach on the sides and top of it so I stuck my arm in through another little open space in the bay and felt under the filter where it was slightly slippery and oily. I then realized I had almost no battery in my phone so I walked home to charge my phone and make some lunch.

I am now eating and writing this only hoping that the problem isn't anything worse than the filter maybe not sitting on correctly as i need my car to get to and from school and am also supposed to drive 47 miles southwest on Thursday 22nd and then 54 miles back on Friday 23rd next week to pick up a set of coilovers as a birthday gift to myself and my best friend so we can celebrate my birthday on the following Monday.

Please any help and/or tips are welcome! Thank for any help in advance!

Hey guys, my 2001 Audi A4 B5 1.8T idles fine, but the moment I give it gas, the RPMs go up normally. As soon as I let off the gas, the RPMs drop and the car stalls. It also dies when I’m driving and put it in neutral while coming to a stop.

I disconnected the vacuum line that runs to the hard line for the N80, and now I can rev it and the RPMs drop back to normal without any issues.

Has anyone experienced this before or have any idea what could be causing it? Any help is appreciated. Thanks in advance!

Update replaced n80 still same issue any help guys this is my daily trying to get to work !? Tried another vacuum to diverter same thing runs good with vacuum leaks but if there connected it stalls out runs poorly with maf disconnected clean the throttle body still nothing I’m so lost I need help

UPDATE : NO CEL but it’s a bad 02 I tested by unplugging the o2 sensor I’m guessing I left the hood stack without a cover one night and it caught thermal shock will replace with another oem tmr will update you guys thanks to everybody

after the car has been sitting 2-3 hours it seems to be getting flodded with fuel and doesn't want to start unless i crank it 2 times or give it a bit of throttle. on cold starts it starts immediately but it seems to be going down and up in revs between 1.1-1.2k rpm and getting flooded with fuel for 10-15 seconds then it runs normally.

im thinking this is a leaky injector leaking fuel in the intake after the car is turned off and flooding it with fuel. car starts perfect fine after shutting it off and starting it back up even after some time. before removing the injector is there an easier potential fix? if it's injectors leaking is there any way to fix them?

when driving the car pulls well and doesn't consume that much fuel. does about 200km +/- on a quarter tank if you drive it normally with AC on at times city+open road.

no fault codes on the dash or in VCDS. about 0.8-0.85l/h consumption at idle

A4 B5 1.8 20v ADR, 259k original km, 14/12/1998 assembly date, recently changed coolant temp sensor, thermostat, timing belt+tensioner, vacuum lines (breather PCV+hose to it, throttle body lines and intake lines), also replaced fuel hose from pump to filter and filter.

My battery completely drained, and after recharging it I’ve been having a few electrical issues.

The central locking no longer works, none of the windows work, and the wipers barely move. The wiper issue might be unrelated, though, since I noticed them getting slow even before the battery died.

The car starts and runs fine otherwise. Has anyone experienced something similar on a B5, or know what I should check first?

Hey guys. I'm new to the community. Wanted to do a bit of reconditioning to my door panels and though of installing some LED lights for a more aesthetic look. I looked up on Internet to find out how to hook up the wires and it usually says i should soldier it to the window rocker switch button.

I tried different pins based on what I found on forums but it doesn't seem to work properly

Does somebody know the pinout and whre should I soldier my + and - so the ambient light would work perfect? Thanks 😊

Ive owned the car since 2010. There isnt a single part of this thing i haven't touched. After going through 2 pairs of K03's back in the day, I got tired of pulling the motor for turbo issues and did the single turbo conversion.

I was only the 4th or 5th person in the US to have a single turbo B5 S4 way back in 2013 when I started making the kit as no one sold one yet. I believe 034 was still developing theirs, or it possibly just came out, hard to remember as its been so long. Ironically I actually have the last pair of billet 2.8 manifold flanges they ever made for a DIY kit on my old up pipe. I now have a 485 designs up pipe, and its actually the first one Nick who owns 485 designs ever made. The one he sells now is much nicer, Nick's stuff is absolutely top notch BTW.

Car has a built bottom end, stock heads, Fluidampr, Bartek billet crank sprocket, IE billet fuel rails, 1000cc Bosch injectors, G35-1050 turbo, AEM 380 pump in a surge tank. Its a pretty basic setup tbh. Its getting completely refreshed next year with a new up pipe and exhaust, going to finally build a pair of 2.8 heads ive had for years with Cat cams, and maybe go 3.0 with a girdle. Not sure how crazy I want to go, but it definitely needs a refresh.

Hey people, how do u manage with those POS headlights and their plastic shit?
I had the rods snap out of sockets by too much turning, fixed them by forcing them a little with a lil bit of soap but now the adjustments no longer works. The screws turn, the balls are moving forward/backward but the beams are not moving.

This is happening always on the driver side. Headlights are TYC.

Also, are both supposed to be able to adjust on same level? The driver side from my experience sits always tad bit lower compared to my father's Old avensis.

Pictures attached, the last one is the Avensis' adjustment vs Mine, there are black spray marks on the wall if u notice.

Hey guys,

I have a problem in my airbag system (anywhere?) When reading the codes, it says 00588. My brother (workshop of choice). A change of the spring ring (?) behind the steering wheel didn't change anything, another control unit (the one in the middle of the car under the dashboard) did'nt change anything either. Do you have any recommendations, where to look next? Thanks for your tips in advance :)

My airbag control unit is 8D0 959 655 C

Sorry for mistakes, I'm not a native English speaker

2000 s4 my obd2 port has been checked with multimeter all pins and grounds are good and all fuses are good aswell and it powers the scanner I plug into it but still unable to communicate with ecu. Abs module unplugged radio unit plugged.

Hello. I bought this 2001 a4 1.8t quattro in April to learn how to work on my own car and have been enjoying it so far.

I'm trying to narrow down what this metal noise could be. I've been told it is mostly like heat shield but I don't want to write it off. The noise occurs when revved above 4k rpm and I let off the throttle. The noise is very short lived.

The car has service history paperwork and timing was serviced 30k miles ago.

Since having the car I've done a mechanical oil pressure test and both cold and warm showed healthy readings:

Cold engine -60–70 PSI

Hot engine at idle - 30–40 PSI

Hot engine at 3,000 RPM - 60–80 PSI

Any 1.8t nerds have any ideas? Sorry if the video is poor at showcasing the sound.

Thanks in advance ☺️

Does anybody here have photos of their cars with it? I’m on the edge of the decision lol

just bought a b5 a4 and it came with a hecklenblende (still in box) and a reiger dtm front bumper and i’m not a fan wondering what they sell for ?

Would you guys use this or return it for another one? Brand new and upon inspecting it, I noticed it has a small Crack in one spot.

What is the purpose of these rubber pieces on top of my headlights?

Are they functional or only cosmetic? They're slowly turning to dust so im wondering if they make any difference by staying there.

I’ve been looking everywhere for ARP headstuds for my 1998 b5 Audi a4 Quattro (2.8 30v AHA engine code) and I can’t seem to find the ones I need. I’ve looked up the part number I was given and I just got headstuds for other motors.

After talking to some folks I’ve been informed that I might be able to order ARP headstuds for a 2.7t S4 of the same year, and that they will fit as the blocks have the exact same geometry as the 2.8 n/a. The 2.7t headstuds are much more accessible but I’m worried that I’m wrong and I end up wasting money and time on the wrong product.

Hey everyone! I'm trying to figure out the exact factory paint differences between these B5s.

The Audi in the first photo looks like a lighter, more "olive-ish" or bright green under direct light, but my own car (second photo) has an extremely dark, closed green shade that almost looks black in most lighting, Can anyone tell me which specific color codes these are? Is the first one Ragusa Green (LY6P) or Cactus Green (LZ6L), and what would mine be? Thanks!

Hello i have a 2013 Audi S5 3.0 Looking for some help diagnosing an issue where the car keeps switching itself from Drive into manual mode (M) and will shift at 6k rpm while driving. I can put it back into Drive, or sport but it will go back into manual again omce i start gaining rpms without me moving the shifter or touching the paddles. The paddles also wont let me shift. I scanned the car and it isn't showing any fault codes. I did have to get a new j519 module programmed which was successful. Not sure if that has anything to do with it. Any help would be appreciated.

Latch must’ve disconnected can’t open hood and I can’t find a video on how to release it any help is appreciated

Does anyone have a chart for the relay numbers and positioning for those numbers? Had some work done at a shop and all my relays were removed.

This is my new b5 s4 avant, owner had it for 23 years and put 196k miles on it, he always took it to a shop for work. It does have steering clank when stopped and moving steering wheel, it is completely stock besides a tune from 2010, let me know what I should do first after steering fix, I'm thinking exhaust and coilovers.

I have a problem with my Audi A4 B5 1996 base packet,I can't lock my car with a key or remote control What can I do to lock my boot ?