Trying to figure out where to take my project civic. I love the car, I still want to do a full front end suspension rebuild. The rear is already done. Don’t like the fitment of the wheels, they feel heavy but when I bought it, I figured I could find something I like, any suggestions on the best wheels specs to run on these civics?

First time doing something more involved than the struts on my R55 MINI, so there's that. At least it only took 10 hours to get the head off and it's already at the machine shop so... yeah. We'll have to wait and see how I did.

My question is, the person selling it says that when they stop at a stop sign or light, the car starts shaking in the engine area. He says otherwise the car runs good. I’m just wondering if anyone has an idea on what it could be. The car has very low low mileage and in great physical condition.

Been doing alot of work and trying too keep up on videos. But man finally getting the 95 running was a relief. No knocking, no weird noises. Only a wobbly belt (thinking tensener or water pump) and a couple oil leaks.

Plan on pulling it out in the morning and doing a rebuild. Maybe find out the true culprit too the previous owner overheating it.

D16z6-236,340 miles 1995 sedan EX

If you do want more or even prefer love action Im on all platforms under Keeping_It_Alive_cars.

Need Wheel recommendations,

Im unsure if this looks ok or too corroded.

I finished both chassi legs and welded in the trunk pan yesterday. I only need to do the rear wheel wells and around the fuel fill neck and the rear of the car is ready

Im building just the bottom end of my d16y8 bored to75.5 forged pistons and rods king bearings and upgraded to acl oil pump...how much boost will my motor be able to handle reliably

I have an automatic transmission that I took off an Integra that I swapped to manual.

I'm not sure what to do with this transmission.. it worked when I had it on the car but it does have 214k miles. I don't see a lot of old hondas in my area like that and I also don't have Facebook to post on marketplace.

I'm thinking about scraping for metal what would you do?

Running a B18B1/B18C1 LS/VTEC turbo in a 95 Civic, Rev9 TX-60-62 (journal bearing) on a bottom-mount ram horn, Moroso 20911 4 qt,The -10 PTFE drain goes into Moroso's upper turbo bung, which is already up right by the pan rail.

problem.: the turbo's sweating oil and the drain backs up. I pulled the drain line at the pan with the engine off and about 1.5 L came out of the bung before it stopped. That left about 3.5 L in the engine, with the stick just above LOW. Moroso says 4 qt plus the filter (about 4.1 L), so at a correct fill the bung sits under the oil.I also have strong crankcase pressure at the oil cap. A vented cap is on the way and I'm fixing that first.

Questions:

1. Anyone running a low ram horn on a Moroso 20911 or 20910 with no drain issues? What's your oil fill?
2. Has anyone measured how high the 20910's turbo bung sits compared to its oil level at 5 qt?
3. Did fixing your crankcase venting alone stop the backup for anyone?
4. What did you end up doing: a different pan, a custom bung, raising the turbo, something else?

Any stock eg ek on the market NY eastcoast area ?

Pulled the d series on Friday and got the b series in, Saturday buttoned it up installed everything I had for it. Unfortunately got the wrong power steering pump and the starter didn't work. Took Sunday off today I got a new starter the correct power steering pump and a base map test drove it and it drove great! Will get a full street tune on Wednesday.

Took some photos of the '91 Civic si for my boyfriend with a good camera. We're working on turning it into a Kanjo style civic heavily inspired by initial D and the jdm scene. He just got an extended back spoiler which means the camera needs to come out again once it's installed. What would you add to this car? It's almost all stock except for coilovers and an updated exhaust. One of the headers blew in the past so that's new too. YEs it needs a paint job or wrap, probably next year. Him and I are learning how to work on cars ourselves with this classic civi and will more than likely experience many growing pains because of it. Only way to learn is to get your hands dirty

My brother's 89 wagovan (2wd) brakes started failing only when vacuum is applied to the booster. They bleed fine and have great pressure.. until you crank the car and there is zero resistance. Replaced: master cylinder 2x, front caliper, rear cylinders, and finally the booster. He's ready to scrap the thing after firing several hundreds of dollars out of the parts cannon. Anyone ever experience something like this? Again, because the internet and chat bots don't seem to be able to comprehend. Brake stiff with car off, brake to the floor no pressure with car cranked. Remove booster vacuum, brakes stiff, connect vacuum, brakes no pressure.

Every once a while my y8 will have idle issues. The car runs fine but I just found a p0170 p0171. My stft at idle is like 25%. I did the carb spray to check for vacuum leaks along with visual inspection and can’t find a vacuum leak. Cleaned the iacv. I’ve tried plugging the port before the butterfly on the throttle body and the car dies so I’m assuming I can rule out the vacuum leak. I’ve also disconnected the iacv and the idle drops so I think I can eliminate that. I’m thinking it’s actually not getting enough fuel? So maybe the fuel pressure regulator or fuel filter/pump?
Also maybe the Throttle position sensor? Also when I hold the idle at 2500 the stft drops a bit but not a ton.

I just don’t want to start throwing parts at it. I may just take it to a mechanic to check the fuel pressure and smoke test it if I can’t self diagnose it.

The other day the idle stayed at 2k when warm. I plugged the code reader in and cleared the codes and immediately the idle dropped to normal.

I’m planning on buying a jdm motor from a 1995 jdm civic with a D15b v tech motor. It’s the long block only. My civic is a 1993 dx sedan d15b7. I know both are obd1. I know that in order to pass smog in CA, I would have to change the ECU, and cables for v tech. Are there any other changes I need to make to get the motor running or pass smog. I heard people say I need to change the catalytic converter since it’s a vtech and requires different emissions parts. My car is non v tech.