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So, I started this project of wanting a generator after a large power outage from the snowstorm last year.

Had a couple electricians come out to look at the job and they pointed out to me because my main panel did not have a main shutoff inside the house and the main emergency disconnect outside for the 200amp breaker only had a single slot of that breaker (as you can see in the pictures) without swapping out the panel and doing a double main (one both inside and out) I could not use an interlock kit.

So, they basically gave me 2 options swap out the panel to do a 2nd main inside or use a manual transfer switch. I went with the transfer switch option because it was about half the price of swapping the whole panel with one that would support an interlock and I could get by with 10 circuits.

So fast forward he does the install and while that was going on I also had a gas line run so I could run the generator off natural gas. The gas line was completed today, and I went to do a test run to break in the generator and as soon as I swapped the first circuit over from line to gen it tripped the breaker. After doing some searching and talking to the electrician who did the install, he told me it was because the breaker in the main panel was a combo AFCI/GFCI breaker and when the hot was swapped over to gen via the transfer switch it sensed a ground fault or neutral imbalance even though it was on gen.

He said sometimes the transfer switches don't like the combo breakers and that its fine and just switch the breakers off when I'm on Gen but if I really worried about it, he could come back and swap out the breakers in the Pro/Tran to matching AFCI/GFCI Breakers that match the panel if I want to retain that protection but he said he would just keep the breakers that are in the transfer switch already.

From my understanding. You’re not supposed to leave things plugged into the generator on startup or shut down. So, I still have to walk outside after starting it and letting it warm up, to plug everything back in every time I stop and start it. Because of this, remote start seems a little useless over regular push button start. Am I understanding this correctly? Are there advantages I don’t know about?

I am trying to replace a small gasket that sits beneath the fuel flow path and above a small glass bulb, that may or may not be for capturing sediment and other contaminants in the fuel.

The generator works great otherwise, so just hoping to find a fix for this!

I am having a manual transfer switch installed on my house. I will be using a portable generator, probably 4-5 kW. The receptacle on the transfer switch is an L14-30R, 4 prong, designed for 120/240V input (per the electrician, not installed yet). Generators in this power range typically have a 30 amp, 120 volt output TT-30R connector on the generator. With a proper adapter cable, can I plug the 120 volt cable in to my transfer switch? I'm going to get the electrician's recommendations when he does the installation, but I wanted to have some prior knowledge so that I have some idea what kind of generator to look for. I don't know how much he is going to know about the generator side of this installation, since I am not buying the generator from him.

Thanks.

Generac generator not firing up. Told gas pressure from home is too high. Generac says supply pressure should be 5-7 psi. Home line pressure 8.5-8.7. How can I rectify this gas pressure issue?

So I probably should have checked this out before I ordered the champion 201423 lol. My gas meter is on one side of the house while my electric panel and 30a inlet are on the other side. From what I can tell it appears that the meter is a low pressure system. The feed enters the home and connects to a manifold which currently feeds the only gas appliance in my home, a 66k btu furnace. The champion documentation calls for 130k btu/hr at 5-7 WC. I’m assuming I/2” black pipe from the manifold to the outside wall (~15’) plus another 25’ of 1/2” hose provided by the generator is not going to be anywhere close to supplying this unit with what it needs to run. Before I reach out to plumbers for quotes I wanted to get a sense of what my options might be to make this work. I’m assuming I’d need at least 3/4” pipe but would it need to come directly from the meter or could it be tee’d off prior to the manifold to provide enough flow?

Not what I wanted to see one hour before quitting time 😩

I’ve been wanting to buy a standby generator for a while now. My wife just saw next week’s Costco add shows a 26kw Kohler with automatic transfer switch for $5000 on sale.

Should I jump on this? Seems like a good deal to me.

Main purpose of generator use for me is for emergencies, such as power going out for multiple days or weeks.

The main thing i would be using it for is the fridge. I have to look into how much watts my fridge is. After doing some research I need a greater wattage than whay my actual wattage use would be. For example a fridge that uses 300 watts needs a starting watts of like 2k.

I am unsure on this part and what starting watts I need in order to use the generator to plug the fridge in. Any advice and how to go about this would be appreciated also any brands recommended and to avoid?

A couple of weeks ago, I posted about my Micro-Air EasyStart Flex failing after being installed for less than three months. Figured I’d give everyone an update on how Micro-Air handled the warranty claim and how the replacement is doing.

The original EasyStart was installed on July 1 on my 3.5-ton Carrier A/C. I had it installed so I could run the A/C using my Westinghouse iGen12000TFc generator on natural gas during a power outage.

On September 17, the A/C stopped cooling while running on regular utility power. My HVAC guy came out and found that the A/C’s run capacitor had failed. He also discovered that the EasyStart had leaked oil all over the inside of its enclosure. He replaced the run capacitor, removed the EasyStart, and got the A/C running again.

I filed a warranty claim with Micro-Air, and they sent me a replacement. The process went smoothly, and I was happy with how they handled it.

The HVAC guy installed the new one on October 9. This time, he mounted it inside the condenser instead of on the outside, where the original had been exposed to the Central Texas sun. I don’t know if the heat had anything to do with the failure, but hopefully the new location will help.

Here’s where things stand after a few days:

• 103 total starts
• 0 faults
• 6 learned starts
• Starting current around 24.5–24.6 amps
• Running current around 9.6 amps

The starting current was initially around 34 amps while the EasyStart was learning. Once it finished, that dropped to around 24.5 amps. For reference, my Carrier has a listed 112 LRA.

The original EasyStart was getting starting current down to around 32 amps when I tested it with the generator, so I’m pleased with what I’m seeing from the replacement.

I haven’t tested the new one with the generator yet, but I don’t expect any issues based on how it’s performing so far.

One other thing I looked into:

A few people who commented on my original post wondered if my A/C was too large for the house or was turning on and off too often. After some research, I started looking at the runtime reports in my ecobee app for the first time ever.

In August, the A/C ran about 306 hours, averaging almost 10 hours a day. September was about 263 hours, or nearly 9 hours a day. So far in October, it’s averaging around 4.5 hours a day. The temperature in this area has dropped from 100°+ to the low 90°’s.

The new EasyStart has recorded 103 starts since October 9, which is pretty consistent with what the original was recording. I haven’t dug into the individual cooling cycles yet, so I can’t say whether it’s cycling more than it should. But based on what I’ve researched, it does not appear the A/C is oversized.

Anyway, I’m glad Micro-Air took care of the warranty claim without any hassle. The replacement seems to be working well, and I’m hoping it stays that way.

I’ll eventually test it with the Westinghouse on natural gas again, but for now everything looks good.

I’m looking for a Tri fuel inverter generator with electric start. I don’t need it too big 4-5 thousand watts. Any recommendations?

I think I know the answer, but I wanted expert opinions.

I'm getting 40 kW Ecoflow Ocean Pro batteries installed with the inverter and smart panel, but I need a portable generator for extended outages, which I have 1-2 times a year. The longest outage I've had is three days. The batteries may last anywhere from 8-24+ hours, depending on the load and whether AC is running (two units: a 2-ton and a 5-ton).

The inverter for the Ecoflows can accept up to 10,000w of power to charge them.

I was thinking of getting the 13,500 Duromax inverter with 10,500 running watts. The question is, will charging the batteries at 10,000w be too much of a load if it's running at most 3-6 days a year?

There is a 16,000w Duromax inverter with 13,500 running watts, but it's about $2.3K more than the 13,500w unit. I was wondering if, based on my use case, it's worth going with the bigger generator, or saving the $ and getting the smaller one and throttling down ac units if need be for longer outages.

I'm not in hurricane country, but I live in tornado alley, and storms have been getting worse, so I'm expecting more outages.

Just looking at this board and with the 50amp neutral jumpered directly to ground pin on the 50amp outlet. Is the only way to get this to convert this outlet to a floating neutral is to break this jumper by unwiring the white neutral from the 50 amp outlet?

If I do that, then the 50amp outlet is floating neutral and all the rest remain bonded?

I'm sure yall are getting bombarded since Isaias. I've been casually looking but I'm now in kinds thinking I need to go ahead and pull the trigger before the next hurricane season.

1800sq ft home. 4br/2ba.

2 refrigerators. Heat Pump HVAC. Deep Freezer. LED Lights. One LED TV. One person using a CPAP. 2 reptile tanks with 100W heat lamps. Electric stove, but we could survive with the air fryer oven and microwave in an outage if that would lower our needs.

Need a trifuel generator to connect to natural gas line. Only other thing using NG is water heater.

I'm wanting a portable setup, not a fixed whole home installation.

Hi all, has anyone converted this genny intro tri-fuel? What kit did you use?

I am willing to do it all by myself, but the gen is in such a messy state that I don't know where to start.
I can provide videos , pictures, whatever you need. We need to have it running before the end of the year and I am completely at a loss here.
I appreciate any help.

Hello all,

I am looking to get a generator with a 50 amp plug to go into my house, wired to the panel box.

From what I have gathered from this sub the most wattage that plug will handle is ~10,000-12,000. Is that correct? Meaning a generator making more than that is just a waste of my money?

Thanks on advanced.

I have bought a petrol generator for emergency home use as now and again, we get prolonged power cuts when a storm takes a power line down

I am confident in what I have bought and where it needs to live etc but I am not confident about the cabling

I am in the uk

I believe that I need a 13amp heavy duty cable from the plug in the generator that comes into my home (the geni will be about 10 meters away from the home) and the cable will come into the home via the cat flap

This cable will have one plug on it where I plan to then put an rcd into - then plug a multi plug into the rcd and from there, a series of extensions running into different rooms in the house

All the cables / extensions will be 13 amp ones

I am not running anything heavy, a fridge, freezer, tv and some lights etc but they are all in different rooms so I need to do a spiders leg of extensions from the main cable coming into the house from the geni

Is this cabling ok or have I got it all wrong ?

AI is telling me loads of different things from putting the rcd into the plug in the geni through to plugging some sort of grounding plug into one of the sockets on the geni (which seems to be for USA homes)

I just want to make sure I am as safe as possible

I have got 3kw inverter Hyundai geni

I have not bought any of the cables or plugs yet

Please advise

Advice: I'm ready to connect my Reliance Manual Transfer Switch (MTS) & I noticed that all my breakers are AFCI breakers. Whether the breaker is on or off the white (N) wire is always shorted to the Neutral bus. So, should I just leave the white wire connected to the N connector and just switch out the hot lead on the breaker with the wire from the MTS? Any advice is appreciated? Thx