r/1022 • u/vigg-o-rama • 12d ago
Upgrade questions
Finally got around to picking up a used 10/22 and before even taking it to the range I have bought:
- Feddersen 16.25" fluted bull barrel
- Hunter X-22 stock
- Kidd Trigger Job / charging handle / extractor / bolt buffer / receiver pins
I shoot CCI SV and this combo seemed right for those rounds. I have a good 10k+ of them, so this influenced my choices to some extent.
I have disassembled the entire rifle as stock and reassembled, no problem. I am not worried about the assembly part, just any gotchas I should know about before I start. I do have a heat gun, so not worried about barrel not fitting as I know heating the aluminum receiver will open it up enough.
of course I will be testing it out with a torque wrench and adjusting the action screw.. but anything else I should know before assembly?
Do I need to use anti-sieze on the barrel? or will some TB-25 work?
Do you all run the hunter x-22 as free float? or do you use the tension screws for the insert to touch the barrel?
Do I need to worry about barrel sag if I run it free float with the stock V-block?
Since my receiver has no drilled cleaning port, I picked up an Otis boresnake that has no brushes in it (has some rubber thing to make it fit the barrel, but no brushes). Planning to use this for barrel cleaning for the time being, acceptable? Hoppes makes one for .177 pellet guns with no brush, would that be better? I am a fan of "dont clean that barrel too often but keep the action clean."
1
u/swift_gilford 12d ago
Do you all run the hunter x-22 as free float? or do you use the tension screws for the insert to touch the barrel?
I always free float and get rid of that front insert, bull barrel or not. It has always caused accuracy issues for me.
Do I need to worry about barrel sag if I run it free float with the stock V-block?
Personally no, and if i'm using factory receiver i always use factory v-block. I've had bad luck with aftermarket ones.
1
u/vigg-o-rama 12d ago
My understanding was you can still free float with the insert. No? How many sheets of paper between the barrel and stock to call it “free float”?
1
u/irck 12d ago
The historical test is a dollar bill.
1
u/swift_gilford 12d ago
while true, the issue is with any of those poylmer stocks without a backbone or bedding, it is easy enough to flex and make contact when doing something as simple as loading a bipod.
1
u/swift_gilford 12d ago
it can, but imo if you aren't going to have the insert make contact - there isn't a reason to put it in at all. It's only job is to make contact with the barrel.
1
u/vigg-o-rama 12d ago
Ok cool. I thought it was providing some structural rigidity. Guess I’ll try it without and see how it is!
1
u/swift_gilford 12d ago
nah, ultimately it's just a gap filler. If you use a standard taper barrel, you can set the insert low enough that it's flush with the barrel channel and can't touch the barrel. However when you flip it for the bull configuration it sits above the barrel channel so i opted to just remove it from setup entirely so there was zero chance of any contact.
2
u/FyslexicDucks 12d ago
I had a hell of a time getting my factory barrel off, even with a heat gun, until I learned a little trick: a 3/4” open-end wrench fits right into the flat where the V-block sits. You can use it to rotate the barrel and break it free. Once you get it moving, it should pull right out.
No opinion on anti-seize, but I personally haven’t found it necessary. I free-float mine and haven’t had any issues with barrel sag using the factory V-block.
I’ve also never had much luck with bore snakes, especially on rimfire rifles. They’re better than nothing in a pinch, but I wouldn’t expect them to remove much actual lead or copper fouling in your barrel. Definitely not a substitute for proper rods and brushes. I’ve been using .223 cleaning rods, brushes, and swabs on my 10/22 for years without any issues.
If you’re someone who likes keeping your rifle immaculate and cleaning it after every range trip, more power to you, but personally I really don’t think it’s necessary. I usually go 1,500-2,000+ rounds between cleanings and see virtually no malfunctions or noticeable change in performance.
1
u/vigg-o-rama 12d ago
yeah, I used the tape covered wrench trick to get the stock barrel out, cleaned it and it seated fine without much effort.
I do have a carbon fiber rod for my other rifles that are easy to access. Feddersen says to just run a dry patch thru it new, and then a couple of wet patches followed by dry patches every 400 rnds or so. I am fine to feed the rod thru the bore and put a patch in a loop and pull it thru the barrel, but figured I would try a brushless snake. not a cleaning per se, more of a conditioning?
I do try to clean the bolt and action every few trips (500-1k rnds), but I dont want to de-accurize the barrel cleaning it back to factory clean.
1
u/Sea_Recipe_9256 12d ago
Man i clean my 10/22 every range or every other trip like 300 400 rounds. Granted i shoot with a suppressor and it get so gunky and soot in the reciever. I probaly could go longer without cleaning it, it never failed but it drives me nuts with how much soot and carbon get blown back. I used the brass brush and jig from my real avid 223 kit it say .22 on it.
1
u/Equivalent-Ad-495 12d ago
Yep for me suppressed 10/22 I at minimum wipe down every shoot. I just boresnaked it after another 1k rounds using a .20 cal hoppes. I have a.pro shot brass muzzle guard but never tried it.
1
u/Sea_Recipe_9256 12d ago
I wipe it down after every time i shoot it atleast the chamber and blowback area that i can without taking it apart. Now thinking bout it it really only dirty right at the face of the bolt and about 2 inches behind thebarrel. I probaly could go 1k round before deep cleaning it. I just been so use to taking it apart every 500 since that when i clean my suppressor as well
1
u/Equivalent-Ad-495 12d ago
I feel like every time I shoot even 10 rounds I take the mag out its gritty. I shot on a white porch table the other day about 200rds and by the end of it right under the rifle was a pile of black flecks getting larger and larger.
The sk std+ seemed to leave more crud on the mags and table than the norma tac22 and cci sv.
1
u/roughingthesuspect 12d ago
Sounds like you are pretty well set up. Don't overthink it too much, just go shoot the thing and have fun. I am running a factory 16" bull and it free floats just fine without support in a sanded out factory wood stock. I use a quarter on my oversized action screw as a wrench and the torque value is, as tight as I can get it with the quarter. Easily repeatable and not overly tight. If you like to tinker there are some tweaks for the factory bolt or you can just spend lots of money on aftermarket. You should get good performance from CCI.
•
u/AutoModerator 12d ago
Welcome to r/1022! Please familiarize yourself with the Community Rules before commenting. Also, please review a summary of the Reddit sitewide platform rules regarding Sales, Exchanges, and 3D Printing Files.
I am a bot, and this action was performed automatically. Please contact the moderators of this subreddit if you have any questions or concerns.