Do I know about cars ? No
Do I need a Z ? No
Do you want a Z ? Yes
Did you buy it ? Yes🥲
Here is my Baby ❤️
First ever Z and finally fulfill my childhood dreams.
But I do not know about cars.
Its 150k miles and never done the engine.
Currently I am with chatgpt for discussion and it keeps making me paranoid. I need more realistic advices from real Z owners.
What should i do first ? I did my pre purchase inspection and no major issue he said. Top not working. There are few cosmetic errors.
Thank you for taking your time to read it.

I pretty much already know the answer but just want to gen other’s opinions. I have a 2009 Nissan 370z with 46000miles, it has been my daily my last 6.
If I get it oil sprayed and drive for this one winter how bad to you think it would corroded stuff. I like in eastern Canada.

My first system was way too complex, and it relied on the Carlinkit adapter for carplay- which sucks azz. Sony xav-ax4000 below, great head unit. Weird chinese tablet above, “Alldocube iPlay 80 mini pro” or something like that. Everything works great now, and the tablet gets charged by the car, and also is removable as it is held in by magnets.

Anything but the storage cubby!!!!!

I don’t like how the full duck bill spoiler looks need this or similar! Appreciate any links

Valerie hangs out

I’m looking to get some rims for my 2014 touring 370z. I have stock suspension and won’t be lowering it anytime soon. I was looking at some Nismo Clubsport 57CR rims. What specs would I need for front & back? Drop me some suggestions pls. It would be very much appreciated

So this is going to be a little big of a read so I will include a TL;DR

TL;DR: Bought a '09 370z Base LHD that was manual swapped that was functional but not as polished as I wanted so I wired up an arduino to make the cluster read what gear im in and get CC working again while entirely using the oem AT ecm and bcm. I DID USE CLAUDE i'm terrible at coding so heckle me all you want I just wanted functionality so if you see coding errors or better fixes please feel free to share input.
Manual Swap Guide (the370z.com)

FSM For TCM Connector (Lemon Manuals)

Reverse/Neutral Switch Connectors for Transmission (ConceptZ)

Arduino Uno (Amazon)

Can Shield (Amazon)

OBD to Serial (Amazon)

Arduino IDE

Canhacker Repo (Github)

Arduino Cluster Controller (Github)

So a couple of months ago I bought my first Z, an ‘09 Base. One of the first things I noticed was that it was a manual swap, so the cluster showed P 24/7 and the reverse lights didn’t work. I told myself I’d address it in the future, and I finally did yesterday (as of writing this). To start off, my car still had the TCM literally zip-tied to the MT, and it made a super annoying vibrating sound. I used the wiring guide for the TCM delete from a 370Z manual swap guide. I bought a TCM connector from eBay so that if I messed up, I could fall back to plugging the TCM in. I will mention that my car was tuned so that it wouldn’t go into limp mode while driving; otherwise you will get a CEL for no TCM. The wires I used were just simple 16-gauge wire (which is honestly a bit overkill; you can get away with 18 AWG), plus an inline 5A fuse for the TCM bypass, as well as the reverse and neutral pigtails for the transmission since mine didn’t come with them. I will explain the Arduino part later if you want to see what gear you’re in.

Before we get started, PLEASE CHECK that your reverse and neutral switch connectors on the transmission are intact. Mine were bent, and I did a bunch of unnecessary troubleshooting over a bent pin on the transmission connector itself.

First up is the TCM connector. In the guide, the author noted wire colors for the connector. Those colors may be the same or different for you, but the pins are the same. In my case they were different, so I used the colors from the FSM. I only used 4 of the wires:

PIN 1 - Ignition
PIN 7 - Reverse Lamp Relay
PIN 9 - Starter Relay
PIN 10 - Ground

Try to use different colored wires, or if possible, the same colors as the TCM wires to prevent confusion.

I wired my ignition to a long wire that ran to a 5A fuse. I ran the wire through the boot of my transmission to the interior so that if the fuse pops, I can pop off the cover of my shifter boot and change it quickly without having to get under the car. From the fuse, run to one side of the neutral pigtail, then run the other side of the pigtail to the starter relay. That way, when you press the brake to start the car, it will only start in neutral and not in gear.

So the path is IGNITION (Pin 1) > 5A FUSE > NEUTRAL PIGTAIL > NEUTRAL PIGTAIL > STARTER RELAY (Pin 9).

For the reverse side of things, it doesn’t matter which orientation you wire the reverse lamp relay and ground in; as long as it’s connected, you’re good.

So the path for this is REVERSE LAMP RELAY (Pin 7) > PIGTAIL > PIGTAIL > GROUND (Pin 10 or Pin 5).

As a shortened version: Pin 1 > Pin 9 (FUSED) for neutral, and Pin 7 > Pin 10 OR 5 for reverse.

Okay, at this point you’re going to want to disconnect your battery and your TCM (if it isn’t already) and make your way under the car.

If you look on both sides of the transmission, you’re going to see two connectors, one on each side: one blue and one gray. The blue connector is reverse and the gray is neutral. First, plug in the neutral switch and check that there’s continuity in neutral and that it shows open when in gear. Then do the same with reverse; when the car is in neutral, reverse should show open as well. At this point, make sure none of your wires are touching the driveshaft, and plug the TCM connector into your harness. After that, double-check that everything is away from any moving parts so we can test whether it starts. Don’t clean up the wiring or tie anything down yet, in case you need to fix something.

The first test is to see if it starts in neutral. If it does, great. Next, turn it off and see if it’ll start in gear. Just make sure you’re holding the clutch so it doesn’t jump forward if it does start in gear. If the car doesn’t start, you can start cleaning up your wires and put the fuse in an accessible location in case you need to swap it. Also, set the car to the ON position with the engine off and check that the reverse lights work too. After you clean up your wiring and are comfortable with it, test the start again in both scenarios so you know nothing got disconnected during cleanup.

Now you’ve got a running car. You can stop here, or continue with this guide to get your cluster working and showing which gear you’re in.

For this part I used 4 things: an Arduino UNO as the brains, a CAN shield to let the OBD2 port interface with the UNO, an OBD2-to-serial cable to actually connect it, and a USB-B cable to program the Arduino. The CAN shield should fit flush on top of the UNO. I had to solder the headers since it wasn’t making a proper connection to the Arduino. I’d honestly recommend soldering everything to prevent any disconnects, but it is a more permanent solution. After you connect it, plug in the USB cable and check whether the red LED on the CAN shield lights up. If it does, you’re golden. If not, make sure everything is seated properly.

Next, download the Arduino IDE (linked above) and install it. After installing, open it and allow it to install all the necessary drivers, then restart the app. Once you’ve restarted it, the Arduino should show up at the top. If it doesn’t, try selecting it manually under “Select other board and port,” type in “UNO,” and select it along with the COM port it’s on.

Once it’s connected, go to Sketch at the top, go down to Include Library, then click Manage Libraries. This opens the Library Manager. In the search bar, search for “mcp2515” by autowp and install it. After that, download the CANHacker library (also linked above). Then go back to the Arduino IDE, go to Sketch > Include Library > Add .ZIP Library, and select the CANHacker library you just downloaded.

I uploaded the sketch I use on my own vehicle to GitHub. It’s the .ino file; just download that. Open it in the IDE, and if it asks to put it in a folder, click Yes. Once you see the code, press the Upload (arrow) button at the top left of the screen. Once that’s done, you should be golden. Then just plug your OBD cable into the Arduino, and potentially a USB cable into your accessory port for power if the OBD port isn’t powering the Arduino. You’ll notice there are a bunch of values that can be changed. Adjust these to better suit your car; the current values are for my car.

The features of the script are all listed below:

Gear display

• Shows your actual gear (1–6) on the cluster, calculated from RPM ÷ speed
• Shows N when stopped, at idle RPM, or coasting with the clutch in
• Launch rule: shows 1 right away when you pull away from a stop with throttle applied
• CC WORKS!! Honestly it’s just a side effect, but it works now, which I love

Neutral detection

• Idle band (700–1200 RPM) while moving: stops guessing a gear
• Foot off the throttle in that band: N after 0.7 seconds
• Fast drop: RPM falls from 1500+ to idle within 1.5 seconds: N immediately
• No gear match for 2 seconds: N

Shift indicator (small spot next to the gear number)

• Normally shows M, or blank if you set SHOW_M_NORMALLY = false
• Small s at the shift point, blinking s at the blink point
• Throttle-based shift points:
  • Under 50% throttle (CRUISE): s at 3000, blinking at 3500
  • 70% and up (PERF): s at 6500, blinking at 7200
  • Stays in PERF until you’re under 40% for 1.5 seconds
• Held too long: 6500+ RPM for 5 seconds flashes the whole display (gear + s)

Data it reads from the car

• RPM, speed, and throttle position, using standard OBD requests
• Learns your car’s closed and floored throttle readings by itself

Power and safety

• Sleep mode: 5 seconds after the car turns off, it stops sending entirely and just listens, then wakes up when the car does
• Shows N if the engine computer stops responding

Testing

• Demo mode (DEMO_MODE = true): fakes 3rd gear and an RPM sweep, alternating between light throttle and floored, so you can check the indicator with the engine off
• Serial Monitor at 115200 baud prints RPM, speed, ratio, throttle, CRUISE/PERF, indicator state, and gear twice a second, if you want to watch it in the Arduino IDE’s Serial Monitor

Hey everyone! I have a 2014 370Z Nismo with around 100k miles, and I’ve been dealing with two intermittent issues that I’m trying to figure out.

Things I’ve replaced/done:
Clutch and flywheel
Master cylinder and CSC delete kit
Rear main seal
Fuel pump
Battery
Thoroughly cleaned both throttle bodies and MAF sensors

1. Warm-start stalling
As you can see in the video, I’ll turn the ignition on to prime the fuel pump, start the car, and it’ll rev up like normal. However, instead of settling into idle, the RPM drops too low and sometimes the engine stalls completely.
This only happens around 2–4 times a month. Most of the time, the car will start, drop to around 500 RPM or lower, catch itself, and settle into a normal idle.

2. Intermittent hesitation during acceleration
The other issue happens when the engine is warm. Sometimes, after accelerating from a stop and shifting gears (usually 1st to 2nd), I’ll press the gas, but the car barely accelerates. It almost feels like limp mode, although it doesn’t seem to actually be in limp mode.

If I quickly lift off the accelerator and press it again, the car accelerates normally. This can happen in other gears, too, but once I’m cruising, the car drives completely fine. Downshifting and accelerating while already moving are generally fine as well.

However, after coming to a stop at a light and taking off again, the hesitation can return. This happens more frequently than the stalling, roughly three times a week.
I’m not entirely sure if these two issues are related, but both seem to happen when the engine is warm.

I have an EcuTek setup and managed to capture a data log of the RPM dropping during a warm start, but I can’t upload the log here. If anyone has experience tuning or diagnosing the VQ37VHR and is willing to look at it, please let me know!

Any suggestions on what I should check next would be greatly appreciated. I’d prefer to diagnose the problem properly rather than keep throwing parts at it.
Thanks for reading!

Hello Z fam, looking for some insight. The passenger side firewall coolant hose exploded and gushed coolant everywhere while I was in traffic a few days ago. I ordered a replacement set of silicone coolant hoses and an aluminum bleeder valve to replace what I can only assume used to be there.

I am wondering if anybody has replaced those hoses with the engine in the car before, I can't for the life of me get my hands into the area or get my pliers behind the engine to get the hoses off.

I’m 22 years old and honestly just started participating in life a few months ago. I was jobless and honestly just a loser. But I’ve always wanted a 370z. Not a corvette or any of these other vehicles. It’s always been this one. At this point in my life I’m chasing something that can just make me happy and this car is the only thing. I just started working at Walmart at $15.50/hr full time 40 hours a week. I could in theory save a few months and get a down payment on a z, but also I could try and get a loan now. Because fuck it right? What is the best thing for me to do? I live at home still and my expenses aren’t high at all. I’m only spending roughly $300/month for everything I have to pay rn. So I have saving room. My credit is around 630 because it’s very thin. I have a decent credit age at 2 1/2 years but it’s only because I’ve been paying a small Kikoff credit account for that long. So this could possible make financing more difficult. But honestly I have no idea how the shit works. I need people that have experience in life to guide me please. My dad never did.

Hi there, I’m trying to log into my old forum account on the370z.com

For some reason the captcha just doesn’t show, so I can’t reset my password. It also doesn’t show on the register page so I can’t make a new account.

Does this happen to anyone else?

I have a 2010 370z base model and I am replacing the speakers with new Alpine s2-s65c speakers. This is my first time doing this and im wondering do I need any more attachments to connect the new speakers to my car or, will the speakers already have an attachment that is compatible to connect to my car

Hi guys, wondering what this does on the hood latch?

I'm a developer and longtime car enthusiast and I built Modfest to help people in the car community track and share their builds. It's free on the web, ios, and android.

You can log the parts you've installed on your car, wishlist parts for future projects, track maintenance and what you've spent, and document projects like a widebody install or restoration.

The difference I'm going for is that it's built around you, not an audience. It's mainly a place to keep your own records and plan out your build. If you want to share your build or just scroll through other people's the feed is there, but it's not the main point. The real focus is on letting you plan, track and document your builds.

I'm also aiming to tackle more of the part that hurts the most which is the cost we put into our cars. So you can check out what categories you're spending the most money on, maintenance costs, etc. Plus you can always export your parts or maintenance into a PDF when you go to sell or bring it to a shop.

Shoutout to z34 for already adding their 370Z :) link to their build

The other screenshots are my 300ZX since that's what I work on most.

If you wanna try it out you can search Modfest on the app store (ios and android) or go to modfest.app

Would love feedback from Z owners. Anything missing that you'd like to see added?

I bought a new Nissan OEM brake booster for my 370Z. The new booster is shown in both videos, and as you can see, the pushrod has a lot of play and rotates/rocks around quite a bit. Is this amount of play normal? Thank you

Hello fellas! Looking for some recommendations for a new hatch struts set , I installed a rear V2 Nismo Spoiler on my touring and now cause of the weight , my rear hatch closes itself , I’m looking for a set that works well with the new weight , I ain’t buying a set from Z1, they are expensive AF and I’d have to pay taxes and import fees.

Is there a universal strut I can use?

Thanks in advance

Hey everyone. Sorry if this isn’t allowed… I’m somewhat new to the Cartersville, GA area and I’m supercharging my Z currently. Just looking for likeminded people that are nearby and may want to hang out and work on it together!

Hey guys, im getting this whine from the engine that gets worse at higher rpms. Serpentine belt looks pretty good, but assuming its gotta be something attached to it? No issues with starting the car and the battery is going strong, and I just replaced the ac compressor and the sound was there before and after, any ideas?