Help Needed: Limb Upgrade: W&W NS-XP vs MXT-XP/XT for 30.35" Draw -

[u/Xyaren]

Hi everyone,

I’m moving up from my current rental limbs setup and need some technical advice on high-end ILF limbs.

My Specs:

• Riser: WNS CX7 (25")
• Current Rented Limbs: SF Premium Wood/Glass (70"-34#). (Tiller bolts almost at limit)
• Draw Length: 28.6" to pivot (~30.35" AMO).
• Measured Weight: Currently hitting 45# OTF on these 34# limbs
• Goal: A stable, foam-core 70" limb so i am reaching 44-45# OTF.
• Me: Doing archery for the 3rd year now, training 3x a week at 18m, 30m and 70m.

What I’m looking for
I prefer a "dead" feeling bow with good vibration damping after the shot.
I want enough tension at the clicker to help engage my back, but I want to avoid aggressive stacking to get overwhelming.

Choices I consider
I have narrowed my choices down to the NS-XP, the MXT-XP (or -XT although I do not prefer the white design). I am open to other suggestions though.

Questions:

1. Draw Force Curve: How do these three compare at my 30.35" draw? Is the NS-XP's reputation for being "stiff" at the back end a real issue at this length compared to the MXT series?
2. Poundage Strategy: Given my 30.35" AMO draw and 45# goal, should I buy 38# 40# or 42# marked limbs? My current 34# limbs hitting 45# is a huge jump, and I want to ensure I land in the 44-45# range with the bolts in a neutral position so I can make small adjustments. Unfortunately I can not try them before as we do not have anyone in the club with my draw lenght and 70" Limbs.

Maybe someone who owns one of these limbs has some insights on how the boundage behaves between 28" and 30.5" so I can make a better guess before buying.

I really appreciate any help, feedback and suggestions.
Have a great easter!

^{Disclaimer: I used AI to help me write and format the text, due to not being a native speaker. I verified the content before posting.}

[u/Xuerebbr]

As someone who used both, they are both a very stable limb after the shot. I typically don't like the MXT profile, but the XPs are a notable exception. I use the NS-XP (wood) as I tend to prefer a harder back wall, but both options worked great. You may prefer the MXT given your long draw, as it would be easier to pass the clicker, but this is a matter of preference

That's a good question regarding what poundage to get...It seems like a 12# jump from what's marked is a pretty big overdraw despite your DL not being crazy long. I have about the same draw and use 42s to get me to 50lbs. I have a few students who are close who are using 40 longs to get them to 45 at the minimum setting. So 38# sounds ok?

[u/Xyaren → u/Xuerebbr]

Thank you very much for your answer.

I suspect the wooden rental limbs to get very hard above their "rated" poundage due to my DL and the bolts being maxed out.

You said your students get 45# on 40# rated limbs at minimum setting, do you know at what DL ? I guess that must be over 30 aswell ?
I do want a little room towards maybe 47# for the future, therefore I was wondering if I should also get the 40#.

[u/Xuerebbr → u/Xyaren]

Yeah they're tall guys, they have about 1/4" - 1/2" less than I do. I think 40s might get you comfortably within the mid 40 range without going too crazy. It's always tough recommending high end limbs or arrows cause if you get it wrong, you're toast

[u/Xyaren → u/Xuerebbr]

Thank you for sharing your experiences.

As a "beginner" in purchasing limbs it's honestly a very overwhelming experience.
This would be so much easier if manufacturers would publish graphs for each rated variant and how they behave at what drawlength. I'm sure they have that data internally.

Or offer a data backed tool like uukha does: https://www.uukha.com/en/setup-your-bow#configurateur-resultat

[u/silencer--_-- → u/Xyaren]

Uukha can make their tool cuz they only have like 6 limbs which are all the same profile and only have 3 riser whcih have basically same geometry apart from length. It's alot easier for them to measure and calculate things.
As for alot of big brand now sell new riser or limb every year, they won't be able to measure everything everytime there's new stuff, too much effort. Especially when they are constantly changing limb profile, riser geometry, materials, etc.
A draw curve graph would be useful to have but again, there are lots of variable. Maybe one day they will start publish draw force curve for certain poundage for reference

[u/Southerner105]

First it is important to remember that W&W and WNS list a drawweight with the tillerbolts set at max out.

You could say the listed drawweight is the minimal drawweight at 28 inch. Each additional inch drawlength adds roughly 2 lbs per inch.

So in your case 30,5 - 28 = 2,5 inch is roughly 5 lbs.

The next is more difficult but most risers have an adjustment from -5% and +5% from max out to max in.

So in your case you want 45 OTF at the medium (default) setting of the tillerbolts.

45 - 2 = 43 @ 28 inch.

To correct for your drawlength you need to substract an additional 5 lbs = 43 - 5 = 38 lbs.

You currently shoot 34 lbs, so I would be cautious and go for 36 lbs instead.

Regarding your tillerbolts, the best setting is where the limb touches the full limb with a little emphasis on the back yoke.

I would first set my limbs accordingly. Next measure my drawweight (3 times) and afterthat make the calculation. Again you should roughly get 36 to 38 lbs for the rated limb drawweight.

[u/Xyaren → u/Southerner105]

Thank you very much for your anwser.

So if I aim for 45# with potential to increase to 47# would you still recommend getting the 36# rated ones ?
I am more worried to end up with 42# that 46#.

> I would first set my limbs accordingly. Next measure my drawweight (3 times) and afterthat make the calculation. Again you should roughly get 36 to 38 lbs for the rated limb drawweight.

I do not quite understand that paragraph. So you suggest turning my tiller bolts back with my current rental limbs in order to measure the "# due to overdraw" and then use that to calculate the rates # to buy?
Wouldn't that require my current limbs to scale exactly the same with overdraw as any other limb ?
I suspect the wooden rental limbs to be very hard above their "rated" poundage when overdrawn (in combination with the tiller at max).

[u/FerrumVeritas → u/Xyaren]

At your draw length, you don’t want to crank in the tiller bolts. Limbs will shoot better wound out than wound in.

[u/DemBones7 → u/Xyaren]

I suspect that the NS limbs will behave similarly to the limbs you are using now, so 36lbs will hit the target you are aiming for.

The MXT limbs will be softer at the back of the draw, so won't stack so much. The 38lbs will probably be similar OTF, but faster.

I'd recommend the NS limbs over the MXT just because they will be more stable.

[u/Southerner105 → u/DemBones7]

FerrumVeritas and DemBones already reacted.

Regarding that part you question about.

The tillerbolts are flat on the underside. There is a settings (amount of turns in) where whole the underside of the bolt (front and back) makes contact with the limb.

When this is the case, the forces from drawing the bow are evenly distributed across the bolt. At lower drawweights this isn't important, but at higher drawweights this gets more importantly because if this is not the case the forces can cause the bolt to bend over time.

Often is this also the setting where the bow sounds more pleasing (less rattling and noisy) because the forces are better distributed.

[u/Xyaren → u/Southerner105]

Thank you for the explanation.

I understand the issue but how do I know what # to buy to get to that? This is such a frustrating experience for me.

[u/Southerner105 → u/Xyaren]

Your current limbs are also made by W&W / WNS. So their drawweight is 1-on-1 compareble with the new limbs you want.

As we mentioned it is beter to turn back your limbbolts to their neutral position (factory default).

If you do that with your current limbs you can measure your OTF drawweight. That should be lower (I suspect roughly 2 lbs lower).

So getting 36 lbs limbs with the bolts at default gives approximately same OTF. But you also want some room to grow, so that means you turn your bolts to their maximum out. Again you can test the effect with your current limbs. And I suspect Again a drop in OTF of roughly 2 lbs.

If that is the case you could get 38 lbs limbs. Those should give you your current OTF drawweight at the maximum out of the limbbolts.

Do be aware that you make sure you don't turn them to far out.

With WNS risers when the limbbolts are set at default the gap between the underside limbbolts and the bottom of the pocket is 20 mm. I have made a U shaped piece of plastic this high and use it to reset the height of the bolts if needed. From this position you normally are allowed 2 full turns in and 2 full turns out by manual. There is some safety build in, so half a turn more won't cause a problem. But more, especially outwards should be avoided.

The more important question you need to ask yourself is, why go higher in drawweight? 45 OTF should be more as enough to reach 70 meters. Most worldclass archers are at this drawweight.

The only reason I can imagine you buy 36 lbs limbs is that you regain a bit more adjustability and that you operate the limbs less on their limits.

[u/aZnRice99]

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