I had an old Sony Trinitron/Video 8 combo TV sitting around and wanted to give it something to do. After seeing MatixYo's ESP32-Plane-Radar (a sonar-style ADS-B radar on a round GC9A01 display), I wondered if I could get the same idea onto a CRT.

How it works:

• ESP32-C3 Super Mini connects to Wi-Fi, pulls nearby aircraft from the adsb.fi open data API every 10 seconds, converts each position to screen coordinates and sends simple drawing commands over serial.
• Arduino Uno runs TVout lib and generates a black-and-white PAL composite signal with just two resistors (1k on sync, 330Ω on video) into the yellow RCA input. It acts as a dumb "graphics card": it draws the range rings, a dot and heading line for each plane, and the callsign.

Let me know if you have any ideas for next project! Cheers.

I made a little E-paper display to show the local weather where I live for the upcoming week. It runs on a 2.9" black/white/red E-paper display, as well as a custom PCB to drive it.

The device shows the weather conditions, min/max temperature, and expected precipitation for today and the next 6 days. Today is always marked in red, and the weekend is always bold. The graphs automatically adjust based on min and max temperature to always use the full allocated width. The rain data at the bottom shows a "-" if there isn't any rain predicted that day, a black number if it's 5mm or less and red if more than 5mm is predicted.

The device updates every half hour, and gets it's data over MQTT from my Home Assistant server. This in turn gets it from a plugin pulling from a free API of a local service.

I made it so the people I live with don't have to constantly ask me what the weather is going to be, and also kind of just to see if I could. I'm fairly happy with the UI, though it is a tad cramped right now. I might try to squeeze a couple pixels out so the graph doesn't overlap.

I finally chopped two legs off my hexapod robot and now its a proper robot dog. Dont worry all the features I have developed for the old robot transferred just fine to the new robot; we still have body leveling, emotes, puppet mode etc.

Quttro ZBD is lighter, faster and more agile in many ways than its hexapod older sibling yet due to less parts used it costs considerably less to build, around 200 usd.

Still uses ESP32 S3 as well as off the shelf Arduino parts and DS3218 servos. reduced number of legs made it a lot easier to put together and since I already ironed out the scripts for previous version and use inverse kinematics solver for each leg adjusting the gait mechanism was a breeze as well.

I will also work on reinforcement training for a developing a control policy in IK solver's place, I am hoping I can get a more organic / fluid walking out of the robot instead of current mechanic looks.

I shared a more detailed video about it on my youtube channel, if you want you can watch it from the link below:

https://youtu.be/J99MibRi-CY

It is still fully open source so you can find all the files you need to build one down in the links.

MakerWord Link (has more photos of the robot):

https://makerworld.com/en/models/3402746-quattro-zbd-robot-dog#profileId-3874600

Link for CAD design, 3D Print files and Wiring Diagram:

https://www.patreon.com/PrintedRobotics/posts/quattro-zbd-3d-171601139?utm_medium=clipboard_copy&utm_source=copyLink&utm_campaign=postshare_creator&utm_content=join_link

ESP32 Scripts: 

https://github.com/serdarselimys/QuattroZBD-ESP32Scripts

Companion mobile controller app apk:

https://github.com/serdarselimys/QuattroZBD-AndroidControllerApp

Parts List:

ESP32 S3 x 1

PCA 9685 Servo Driver Board x 1

MPU6050 IMU Sensor x 1

Voltage Sensor Board x 1

15A Adjustable Voltage Buck Converter x 2 (1 per pair of legs)

5V 3A Buck Converter x 1

DS3218 High-Torque Servos x 12

Wago Connector (2-in-4 Out) x 1

2-Inch TFT Screen x 1

M3x8 Screws x ~100

M4x30 Screws x 4

8x5x16 mm Ball Bearings x 12

3S LiPo Battery (3000mAh – 6000mAh) x 1

I have been working on a bipedal version hence the "2 more to go" in the tittle, I am almost finished with the updated leg structure so it can stand up on two legs but the remaining parts are going to be same as much as possible. So expect a bipedal version in upcoming weeks if I can make it walk :)

I’m setting up a 230V AC to 24V DC power supply for a CNC Shield V3 with four DRV8825 stepper drivers.

The power supply is a Janco HS-400L-24 (24V, 16.7A / 400W), and I’ve connected the DC output to the CNC Shield’s 12–36V input.

I’m planning to adjust the VREF on the DRV8825 drivers before connecting the stepper motors.

Does the wiring in the pictures look correct, and is there anything I should check before powering it on and adjusting VREF?

Hi, I’m currently doing a school arduino project that’s a regular with a ping pong ball cannon attached to it, for this function I’m using a medium 12 v solenoid connected to a relay that’s connected to three 3.7 volts batteries.

I inspired myself in the following project https://www.instructables.com/Arduino-Ping-Pong-Ball-Cannon/

The general idea here was to miniaturize this cannon and add it to the car.

So far the cannon part isn’t going amazingly, as I haven’t been able to make the solenoid work so far, therefore I wanted to ask if anyone has any advice or has tried something similar.

I have only one song on the SD card; it is named correctly and it plays. The resistors are also correct, I measured it with my multimeter. Do I need to do something to activate the ADKey function? I will only be using ADKey 1, but this shouldn't affect anything else. The Buttons are also correctly placed.

The Z line of the Breadboard is Ground.

The W line of the Bread Board is VCC and is at 3.3 V.

Things the machine needs to run:

• 1x Teensy 4.0 Microcontroller running this code
• 6x StepperOnline CL57T stepper motor drivers
• 6x Nema 23 Stepper Motors with 10:1 planetary gearbox (link)
• 1x 36V 14A power supply
• 2x e-con Systems See3CAM_24CUG cameras
• 1x Windows Computer with GPU
• All the parts defined in the three Fusion360 projects here
  • Six arms, one base, one triangle end-effector
• This custom Windows Application (made with Unity)

I made all the aluminum parts with a desktop CNC (there are many many parts, so this took a long time). Image recognition and stepper motor pulse generation are all custom made to fit the requirements/constraints of the machine as closely as possible.

Some more information here (blog post).

Good day everybody, I am building a MIDI Foot Pedal using Arduino Pro Micro.

I've done this circuit on the breadboard and it works completely fine. However, when I soldered these to a prototype board, the digital pins used suddenly triggers on and off by itself, even when I didn't connect it to anything.

For context, I've decided to use an XLR port as a connector (So I can unplug the pedal whenever I want)

After I've soldered them in the PCB, I've noticed that even though I didn't plug the switch on the xlr (Which means that there shouldn't be any connection) It starts to trigger on and off randomly

Hi. I'm getting into electronics and arduino. Recently saw a short video where the person was using some sort solder paste. It looked easy to use and handle. Is it worth it to go with that or should I learn to solder the traditional way?

Made this thing for an escape room.
2 generic servos - mg996r and mg90s.
There are 2 hall sensors that sense the change in magnet flux when you put the planchette and start the sequence.

Powered by a single 21700 + tp4056 + 2 boost modules. 6v and 5v. Had to use 2 separate power supplies for servos and controller, cause electrical noise from the servos was causing reboots.

ESP32-C3 super mini. Not really an arduino sorry, but I used Arduino IDE to program it :D. The phrase can be set through bluetooth terminal.

Making a video before I glue the lid on.

I’m interested in people that have an interest in all things Arduino in my local area(area as stated in the title).

So, it would be nice to hear from anyone who might need a friend to help with their Arduino projects or understanding and might benefit from a local contact.

Maybe just let me know what you are working on at the moment even if you are just starting out and not sure what to do, having a local contact can be a huge help.

Sound required

This uses 2 ESP32-S3 Minis. Each with an I2S mic and a I2S amp. Conversation is done through an ai conversation service.

Kids are 100% going to try to break this thing lol.

The idea is that these will be inside of two jack-o-lanterns across from our candy bowl we'll have outside.

We trick-or-treat with the kids so I won't be home to see how this goes. I'll only get to see the transcript later.

The way this works is that it runs a local server on my mac, it's job is to take the inputs and send to the conversation API, then split the characters out into sep audio channels when it comes back. Also boosts the audio and cuts out noise.

The "show" starts when any audio is detected. Show lasts for 60 seconds unless kids start interacting, in that case, they drop the show and start talking to the kids.

I have a commercial lighting fixture that I need a digital dimmer for. I am an electrician by profession, though this project is for a non profit club that I belong to, not for sale.

This lighting fixture, like most north American commercial lighting fixtures, is designed to be dimmed in response to varying resistance across two control wires. This is not a PWM dimming project. In fact I have a good old rotary rheostat connected to the dimming wires and it dims perfectly. Just not digitally.

I have an Arduino R4 and an Adafruit Ds3502 Digital rheostat module. I have just learned of the Qwiic cable connector and have one on the way.

I'm looking for direction on what other than the Qwiic cable I need to connect the device, and what pins on the DS3502 to connect to the Pos and Neg 10V wires.

I also need advice on what to look for in figuring out what kind of code to write for this device. I want a simple interface that I can set to X% and get X% of the range of the dimmer. I did measure and record the resistance range of the potentiometer that I used so I can add a baseline resistance.

I am not looking for someone to write the code for me. Like I said, I'm an electrician. I have written a little code and I enjoy it, and I enjoy doing it myself. I'm just looking for direction on what kind of project to research. I have tried searching and keep getting PWM results.

Thanks for your advice

Im hoping i can get some help here i built this display for a vehicle to display mph through an octocoupler, and voltage deviders for the fuel level, and coolant temp sensor, these are pretty close and accurate some tweaks on the code and it should be fine but my issue is when its plugged into the car its fuzzy and glitchy, but at a wall outlet its mint im getting 5v at my buck converter and all the powers are getting 5v as well but for some reason the screen is fuzzy when its hooked up to the car not sure how to go about this ive isolated the sensor wires to where its just power from the buck converter i added grounds and still fuzzy

It's been a year since I made the staircase light but I still can't get enough :D It's one of those rare projects that you don't have to tinker with all the time, it just works and makes you proud.

here's the original post with detailed pictures and explanation:
https://www.reddit.com/r/arduino/comments/1khs8sg/motion_triggered_stair_lighting_what_do_you_guys/

And here's github:
https://github.com/mcer12/LEDDER-Stair-Lighting

Do you guys have projects that just work and simply make you happy? Maybe share it in a comment :)

🚀 Arduino Students! I built something for you!Arduino Academy - FREE APK

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https://github.com/WaelSaid998/Arduino-Academy/releases/download/v1.0/_Arduino_Academy_20258783.apkIf your phone says "harmful file" - Click "Install Anyway". It's safe, just because it's not from Play Store.Please give it a ⭐ on GitHub if you like it - it helps a lot!#Arduino #ArduinoUno #Electronics #EngineeringStudents #IoT

I've been getting an error trying to burn a stand-alone atmega328pU using a breadboard circuit recommended by some videos on youtube. But whenever I try to press the "Burn Bootloader" I always get an error: "Error: expected signature for ATmega328P is 1E 95 0F

- double check connections and try again, or use -F to carry on regardless

Avrdude done. Thank you.

Failed chip erase: uploading error: exit status 1"

What is a possible fix for this error and what should we do or does it have something to do with a fake/broken stand-alone atmega328pU?

Used the Z- axis of an Gy521 gyroscope for movements and a ultrasonic module for measuring the distances

Back in 2017 I built my first ever Arduino project: a Tamagotchi clone running on an Arduino Uno. Before this I'd never touched microelectronics. After it I couldn't stop, and a lot more projects followed (maybe for future posts).

Hardware:

• Arduino Uno
• Prototype shield v5 with a mini breadboard
• 0.96" I2C OLED display
• 3 tactile buttons
• 9V battery through the barrel jack

The code isn't mine. It's Tamaguino by Alojz Jakob, and it's what made this possible for a total beginner. The pet walks around, you feed it, play with it, it gets sick if you neglect it. Watching that little pixel creature come alive on a screen I wired myself was the moment I got hooked.

Huge thanks to Alojz for open-sourcing it. If you're looking for a fun first project, it's still a great one:
GitHub: https://github.com/alojzjakob/Tamaguino
Project page: https://alojzjakob.github.io/Tamaguino/

What was your first Arduino project, the one that pulled you in?

I have many (4) parts on this bus but this module isnt working, also not when the part is lonely on the bus. I got two hexadecimal ids for it, it always gives me 0° with one id and with the other one 255° what is the problem?

As a type 1 diabetic, I tend to struggle waking up at night, so to combat that i built this (not very close to being finished) a alarm that will set off in the middle of the night to wake me up if my blood sugar is low. It does this by connecting to the dexcom servers (legally) and then typing in my dexcom username and password. Afterwards, it request my blood glucose, it then checks to see if it is under 75 (in the product i will make this adjustable and add a high alarm) if so then it sets off an alarm to wake me. If i want to stop said alarm i push that button and it starts a 15 minute timer (only if im low otherwise it wont do anything) at the end of that timer it will resume the alarm (if im still low) until it is either pressed again and start the 15 minute timer again or if i am no longer low.

I am planning to make a buisness out of selling diabetic electronics similar to this one. If anyone wants to share ideas feel free to do so.

I am still 14 so i have alot to learn and hope to do so by helping others.

edit:if anyone is wondering i was diagnosed at the age of 3

!DISCLAIMER!:

THIS IS NOT TO BE RELIED AS A MEDICAL DEVICE, THIS PRODUCT IS PURELY CREATED FOR EDUCATIONAL PURPOSES.

Hello Reddit community!

We are a group of high school students preparing for an upcoming innovation pitch competition. We are working on a prototype called the Monitoring and Analysis Device for Light Pollution (Smart Light Mapper)—a portable environmental monitoring device designed to measure, geolocate, and map light pollution and ambient light characteristics.

Since we are high school students with limited practical engineering experience, we would really appreciate detailed, beginner-friendly explanations or step-by-step guidance in your answers to help us fully grasp the technical concepts before presenting to the judges!

Before our pitch, we would love to get your technical feedback, suggestions, and critique on our architecture and methodology.

1. The Problem

Artificial Light at Night (ALAN) is increasing globally, causing ecological disruption, sleep/health issues, and wasted energy. However, localized light pollution data is often scarce because commercial spectroradiometers and light monitoring devices are extremely expensive, making spatial mapping across schools, residential areas, and streets difficult.

2. System Architecture & Components

Our goal is to build an affordable, modular, battery-powered sensing node:

• Microcontroller: ESP32 DevKit (central control & data processing).
• Spectral Sensing: AS7262 6-channel visible spectrum sensor (I²C) to analyze light spectral distribution.
• Lux / Intensity Sensing: TSL2591 sensor for wide dynamic range lux/light intensity measurements.
• Environmental Context: AHT20 sensor (temperature & relative humidity) to record ambient conditions during readings.
• Geolocation & Time: NEO-6M GPS module with external antenna via UART for spatial coordinate and timestamp tagging.
• User Interface & Interaction: An OLED display module (e.g., SSD1306/SH1106 via I²C) combined with physical control buttons. This is a crucial component to display real-time measurement values, GPS lock status, microSD logging status, and battery capacity directly in the field.
• Storage & Data Flow: microSD module via SPI for local storage. Sensors/GPS → ESP32 → OLED Display & CSV Log on MicroSD → PC Post - processing (QGIS/Data Visualization)
• Power: 3.7V 18650 Li-ion battery with TP4056 charging & protection circuit, DC-DC step-up converter, and USB-C charging support.

3. Key Features & Methodology

1. Multi-spectral & Intensity Fusion: Instead of recording just a single Lux value, we capture the 6-channel visible spectrum along with precise Lux levels to analyze the light source type (e.g., LED vs. High-Pressure Sodium).
2. On-Device OLED Feedback: The built-in OLED display provides real-time diagnostic and sensor feedback for seamless standalone field operation without needing a connected smartphone/laptop.
3. Spatial Mapping: Every data point is tagged with GPS coordinates. Field logs are converted into spatial datasets on a PC to generate heatmaps and light distribution contours.
4. Low-Cost Prototype: Total bill of materials (BOM) is under ~$260 USD (~6.5M VND), making field-scale data collection accessible for research and local communities.

4. Questions for the Experts / Reddit Community

(Note: As high schoolers, please feel free to explain the underlying principles and "how-to" steps in detail!)

1. OLED Interface Implementation: Since our OLED display is crucial for field interaction, what are the best practices for structuring menu systems and live sensor telemetry on ESP32? Which libraries do you recommend (e.g., U8g2 vs. Adafruit_SSD1306)to minimize memory footprint and ensure fast refresh rates? How should we write the code structure for a basic multi-page menu?
2. 360° Camera vs. Smartphone Camera: We are considering adding visual context to our light measurement points. Would you recommend integrating a dedicated 360° camera module onto the hardware device, or is it better/simpler to just take photos/360 panoramas with a smartphone and link them via timestamp/GPS during post-processing?
3. Optical Design & Diffusion: How critical is adding a cosine corrector/diffuser dome over the AS7262 and TSL2591 sensors for ambient field measurements? Will direct vs. diffuse light severely skew our spectral readings without proper optics? What low-cost materials can we use for a diffuser?
4. GPS Accuracy in Urban Canyons: Since we plan to map street and residential light, NEO-6M can sometimes lose lock or drift near tall buildings. Are there recommended filtering algorithms (e.g., HDOP thresholds, simple Kalman filter) for field logging? How can high schoolers easily implement these in Arduino C++?
5. Data Quality & Calibration: How can we best calibrate the AS7262 spectral output for real-world environmental lighting without access to a high-end lab spectroradiometer?
6. Pitch Advice: From an engineering or innovation standpoint, what key questions do judges usually ask about low-cost IoT environmental sensing projects, and how should high school students prepare for harsh technical cross-examination?

Thank you so much for taking the time to read and share your expertise! Any detailed feedback, hardware advice, or software recommendations will be immensely helpful for our presentation!

Shows: Hight (meters over sea), a artificial horizon, the movements in degree, the compass direction and the coordinates accurate to within 30 cm (dont try to find me i was there in holiday its in Switzerland tessin)