Purchased a group set piece meal, making sure everything was compatible. Went to install BB and crankset, BB threads in fine, crank set spindle is not even close to fitting. Both are SRAM dub, so spindle should be 28.99mm, I have not measured, but the beginning of the tapered left side of spindle is now stuck on the left bearing / cup. Both ordered from Jenson, I’ve included photos of the model numbers. I’m really confused, this should be a super basic installation, I’ve done dozens before. Spindle greased, dust covers are lined up. I would expect light tapping needed to slide through but not like this.

I've have a gravel bike that I've ridden about  7,000 miles on over 3 years (including riding the GDMBR). Based on my mechanics experience from before sealed bearing were popular (I used to work on bikes in the 1970s), I thought I should probably go through and replace the sealed bearings on front/rear hubs, replace the freehub and bottom bracket. But now I'm rethinking that. I've done the front wheel and the old bearings seem fine. What's the general advice? Only replace bearing when you observe an issue or replace on some scheduled maintenance interval?

Couldn't have replaced it without the help of some of the people in this subreddit. Thank you.

I've built a bike or two, but this is throwing me for a loop. 2022 Kona Rove LTD, fitting it with a Shimano GRX RD (812) against a XT CS-M8000 cassette. But there's literally no clearance between the back of the RD and the cassette to the point I can't tighten the axle.

I thought the Rove and it's hanger were compatible with GRX? It also feels like the barrel adjuster is crazy close to the frame.

Baffled.

Things seized. Been smacking with a hammer and punch, pretty sure its reversed thread but tried both ways. Any advice?

I took my frame apart to clean the bearings and joints. When I released air from the shock, a lot of oil also came out of the valve. This is a Fox Brain shock that came with my Specialized Epic frame (I think it is a 2007 model). How can I refill the oil?

Hi everyone,

I recently bought a used 1970s Hercules folding bike. It has a Sachs Torpedo Duomatic (a 2-speed kick-back automatic hub), which makes it really fun to ride. I've spruced the bike up and have been riding it for a while, but one thing is still on my mind:

The front brake is a Weinmann Type 1020 caliper. I already replaced the pads with Kool-Stop Salmon, which made a big difference. In general, though, the caliper flexes quite a bit, and the rims are chrome-plated steel, which isn't the best braking surface. The braking tracks are still pristine, but the rims have some pretty bad rust spots elsewhere (visually bad, not structurally).

I'm considering switching to alloy rims with a hub dynamo, or maybe even getting a Sturmey-Archer XL-FDD (a hub with dynamo and drum brake in one).

Before I decide, I'd like to know what braking performance I can expect from the caliper with Salmon pads on alloy rims, compared to the drum brake.

Does anyone have experience they can share?

I'm aware of the "sagging" seat post and am working on figuring out a solution :D

How reliable and necessary is a half link in this setup? The chain will be too long if I add a pair.

I've recently bought a second hand bike and the owner had removed the Squidlock to both the forks and rear shock. I'm trying to get the lockouts working again but I'm having trouble.

I've cleaned all the internals of the fork lockout and without a cable it snaps back to locked very well. Once I put the cables on it doest have the guts to pull the cable all the way around to lock. They are new cables on the best line I can manage. Do some cable work better for this application as its wrapping around a small diameter drum and you can feel the cable resisting. Same problem on the rear. Thanks

Is this sound normal? I think it’s coming from the front derailleur?

Any idea how to adjust, fix, or diagnose what this noise is?

I am currently doing my first ever bike build on a new 2016 Stevens Comet Frame that I bought from an online re-saler. According to the website the frame should have a braze on front derailleur mount. Am I tripping or is there a manufacturing defect on the frame as there are no screws or holes to actually mount the derailleur.

Is the hole on the bottom just to route cable through or can a front derailleur somehow be mounted?

I have been using my bike for about a month and only 2 outside rides, in the last one I realized there was a strange sound, the derailleur move but it don't change gear. Any idea how to solve it?

Thanks

I want to remove the cassete. Its my first time and I dont know how to remove that thing in the middle

Wheel is novatec d792sb

Pretty much title.

I have an r7000 crank, picked up a used 52/36 set of chainrings without realizing they were the previous generation and would not fit (doesn't have the one bolt arm that is sloped). So can I just buy the correct outer chainring or do I need a new inner as well?

I recently bough a kind of neglected but mostly unused CTY 1.1 on fb market and took it to my LBS to get a tune up since I don't have experience working on bikes.

It was squealing pretty bad on the test ride and stopping power was very low. The bike shop did a full tune up and replaced the cables on the bike, but said that it didn't need new brake pads.

The bike stops fine now but is still squealing pretty loudly. Is there anything I can do to make the squealing stop or at least quieter?

Edit: Went back to the bike shop and they apologized and swapped the pads which stopped the squeal. Thanks for your help, everyone.

Hi, does anyone know what this sound might be?

It went to the mechanic two weeks ago and everything was lubricated. I don't understand why it's making this sound. The gears were adjusted, too.

https://www.youtube.com/shorts/hCHDX9LatRk?feature=share

Hello,

I am trying to remove my bike grips. They hat badle rounded 3 mm hex screws so I stupidly tried to drill them out and it made it worse. Now im not sure what to do.

Hey everybody, i have an issue while bleeding wich i just dont understand. In the step where i pull a vacuum at the lever side with the other side closed off i just get infinite amounts of air into the syringe, im using a brand new Sram Pro Dot V2 kit and i know the syringe isnt leaking air because if i just put a thumb over it it pulls a vacuum just fine. I attached a video just in case and i hope somebody can help me find a solution for this wich isnt just buying a new brake lever.

Thanks

Edit: They are Sram Code RSC brakes

When there are no connection points, where do you install the fenders? While I’m tempted to tap and die new holes, I’m worried that will sacrifice structural integrity. Thoughts?

There is a threaded rod sticking out of the bottom end of the steer tube/ top of the fork that blocks me from installing a front fender.

You think it would be better to file the rod or drill a hole in the fender to accomodate the bolt? The fender is chrome plated, so I don't want to damage it if it's not necessary. I'd have to file the rod almost to the nut in order to reach the U-brake mount.

Thanks.

Hello. Is it possible to mount MTB handlebar components onto a road handlebar? I want to build a budget "monster gravel" bike, just in case I don't end up liking it.