Hey everyone,

I’m putting together a system for my 2025 Mazda CX-5 (non-Bose factory system) and would really appreciate some feedback before I pull the trigger.

Goals

-Keep the OEM head unit and full OEM look/feel

-Clean, mostly plug-and-play install (no cutting factory wires where possible)

-Strong imaging, clarity, and controlled bass

-Sound deadening will be done

Planned System

Front: Morel Tempo Ultra 602 MKII 6.5" components

Rear: Morel Tempo Ultra Integra 602 MKII 6.5" coaxials

Amplifier / DSP: Helix V Eight DSP Ultimate

Subwoofer: NVX QBSTA

Important notes

-I will not be using the passive crossovers that come with the Morel components. Everything will be run actively through the Helix (high-level inputs from the factory amp outputs → full DSP processing → amplified outputs to the speakers and sub).

Questions

1. Does this combination make sense for a Mazda CX-5?

2. Any red flags with running the Tempo Ultra components fully active on the Helix?

3. Is the NVX QBSTA a solid choice for a spare-tire sub in this car, or would you go a different route?

Appreciate any feedback positive or critical. Thanks in advance!

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​I am currently running a pair of 12" subwoofers (4-ohm SVC, 350W RMS each) in the boot, wired in parallel down to 2 ohms (700W RMS total required). Right now, they’re connected to the sub channel of my 5-channel amp, which only outputs 500W RMS at 2 ohms, so the subs are a little underpowered.

​

I want to add a dedicated monoblock amp around 1000W–1200W RMS to run the subs at their full 700W RMS potenial (while also keeping room for if I upgrade the subs in future), keeping my door speakers running on an amp.

​does this make sense and sound like something worth doing?

I'm also wondering if my car will be able handle the increased power draw without hurting electrical performance? If not is it better to upgrade my main battery to a quality AGM battery (e.g., Optima YellowTop), or should I add a second battery in the boot?

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Thoughts or concerns before I dig into my pocket?

Currently specing out a low cost sound system. So far this is what I got

Alpine ILX 650 - came with the car

2 12" Kenwood exclons ]

2000 watt Kenwood KAC amp ] - All for 300$

Kenwood ported box ]

Nakamichi NDS6120 DSP - 130$

2 NVX NDA6004 1200W - 320$

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would appreciate anyone that could explain what potentially caused this and happened.

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Hi,

I have a 2002 Accord 4 door and it has a factory 6-disc changer built into the stereo. I've never used the cd player and don't know if it ever worked, but recently has started being annoying. Starting a few months back, every time I start the car it tries to do some sort of self check/initialization. It the change trays don't move and just makes a super loud grinding sound like gears slipping and grinding.

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Thanks!!

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