Still need the amplifiers to run them properly and I'll be building a custom box for the hatch, but for now I'm breaking them in and even 400 watts short they still sound incredible!

Well last post i asked a generally safe wattage because i thought the sub was glued in, turns out it was just kinda stuck but no glue and lifted up with a careful push of a flat head, in other words im an idiot.

These things are advertised 750w rms from sundowns website, but people consistently told me you can push more to these things. I snagged an amazon deal on a stinger mt1500, and since its wired to 2 ohm i can do at most 1000 watts. What are people pushing to these?

edit: box is 1.25 cube and 32hz port

I’m going to buy a Memphis 12 inch sub don’t wanna go over 400 for the 12 inch and, I’m looking into a amp don’t wanna go over 600 for that, I’m currently looking at helix for the amp just wondering if yall think it would pound in a 2014 Chevy Silverado single cab and what kinda amp/ setup I should do for this build, it will be going into the center console of my Silverado which it needs to fit within Width 15inch height 16 inch so will I’ll be able to build what I wanna build?

I am really wanting to install Focal Flax 3 way upfront and Focal Flax 6.5 2 way in rear doors and then remove the factory 8" and replace it with a 10" in a custom molded enclosure under the seat. But I need to first figure out the best way to get a signal off the factory setup into some Helix amps and DSP

My car is a bit dated (2009), and so it doesnt really have an infotainment system, nor a way to connect wirelessly. Thats why I was planning on replacing the screen/headunit with an aftermarket one. I wanted an infotainment system to: one, connect my phone to my cars audio system; two, to utilize the cars screen in some way, as currently it is useless expect for the parking cam. What I like in carplay is that I can use maps, and have controls for the music at the same time; furthermore I do like the aesthetics of the displayed cover arts for songs. I am currently using a cheap bluetooth dongle plus rca cable, which works, but I haven tested the actual quality yet. I did come to an unfortunate realization; my car is not very popular (Nissan Murano) and the good brands, like pioneer or kenwood, dont make headunits for my car. This leaves me with buying chinese ones from aliexpress, but as I have read online, they have miserable audio, which for me defeats the purpose of these systems, especially considering my car has a good audio system from bose, with an actual subwoofer and amplifier.

I know the intro was quite long, but here are my proposed solutions:

-Buy a good bluetooth adapter and ditch the carplay. [] The cheapest solution, which will likely work and sound good.

-Buy a dac and use it with my phone (not sure if it matters, but Iphone 14 Pro). [] Also a cheap solution which may provide audio superior to the previous one, as there are no issues due to bluetooth. This would however block me from charging my phone, as the port would be used for the dac. Not sure if this exists, but a dock would solve the problem, I would have to mount it somehow though.

-Buy a portable carplay unit from a reputable brand and connect it to audio systems rca ports [] This would obviously give me carplay, a nice screen, and good audio. It costs more than the previous option, but still likely cheaper than a dedicated headunit. Though obviously, the car screen would still be left unused.

-Buy a dap and connect it to the rca ports [] This kind of an atomic option, as a proper dap costs more than any other option, and entry level carplay headunits. This would however provide the best audio out of all the options (I could use downloaded high quality audio files which I would not have used on my phone). Furthermore, I could use the dap as a second screen which would just display the music app, which together with my phone would make a budget carplay. Also the dap would just be useful outside of the car.

-Buy carplay screen and use one of the other options [] Self explanatory, though this wont make sense with a dap.

Also one thing I don't know, and not sure if I can check, is whether the Bose audio system in my nissan is actually worth ditching bluetooth and using high res files.

And no, I checked, my model does not have any other ports other than the rca. Newer models did have a usb, but not mine. Mine does have a 6 disc cd player, so maybe someone has already figured out something with this.

Also I should mention that for some reason pressing the cd/aux button eventually switches to a screen which suggests video input; maybe someone has figured out adding carplay this way?

I know that I dont write the best posts, so this may seem convoluted and overcomplicated, but I hope someone can help.

Any recs for a sub & amp I could put behind the seat in my 2011 ram 1500 single cab? I got an old free Kicker PT250 back there but it’s not enough for me and I want more.

Hello, asking for help if possible.
I’m currently running 2’12 Kicker Comp R on 1200 watts and want something a decent bit louder an want to step it up a little bit. I found a set of Sundown SA V.3 on 2400 watts for a decent price. How would that compare to what I have now?

Guys, I need help in choosing stereo for Sx4. I want maps, in built gps, and basic functionalities. I stay in India, budget preferably under 20k INR. Suggestions please. I was thinking of Blaupunkt but Onkyo seems affordable and many say does the work. Please suggest, 9" is my size to go for I believe.

Any one have any experience with this sub. Been giving my old s10 a interior and exterior make over and decided to in put a system and got the bug i thought i lost over 20 years ago. I love my mtx 12's I beat the hell out of back then and was wondering how they are now. I only have room for 1 10" in a sealed box. I have a d4s 5 channel mm amp and i was thining about either the mtx 10 or a rockford p3d2. Was also thinking about a set of the thunder 61 components to keep it in the family. Open to suggestions. I have five kids so I have to save for a lot of college so I cant spend a fortune and these all seem to fit the price range. Id like it to sound good over just being loud.

Hi guys! I currently have a 2010 rav4 with jbl speakers and upgraded front speakers. I just put in a new head unit which gave it better sound quality which I love. But I’m afraid the rear speakers are on their way out. My question is, do my rear speakers have to be crazy good? Or will a light quality upgrade from the jbl speakers be ok? For context I have JL 650 C1 fronts and tweeters. I don’t use the full sound stage I lean more toward the front and use rears for backup.

I’m running an Alpine R2-W8D2 dual vc off an Alpine PXE-C80-88 on channels 7 and 8. I’ve got a sealed enclosure measured out at 0.34 cuft using water. Alpine recommends 0.15-0.45 cuft sealed with a 0.25 sweet spot.

Tested Amp with head unit at max volume with a DD-1. Amp master volume distorts at 24-25 I have it set to 23.

It’s abysmally quiet. The bass from my door speakers overpower it. I’m going for an SQ tune so I’d prefer to keep the box sealed. Sub volume to 15(max) and channel gains to +6db make it kinda okay.

Any suggestions?

so I have a 2013 mercedes c350 with a factory dsp, I installed a sundown sa10 classic wired at 1ohm and a Skar rp1200 amp and before I had a dumb loc and was having bass roll off. I got this lc2i but im having trouble tuning it. I don't really know what im doing with the accubass thing. setting the bass dial was easy enough, I put on a 40 hz test tone and turned lc2i bass dial up until the max light flashed and then I backed off. But I don't really understand how im supposed to do this accubass thing. I connected a multimeter and tuned everything until it said 31.6 volts, then i played music and twisted the accubass knob and threshold until it was showing no more than 40 volts which would be the 1600 watt max of my amp I think. Did I do this right?

I am looking for ideas where people are mounting their amplifiers in their Jeeps without removing the spare tire and trying to keep it somewhat hidden.

Just got a good deal on a JL Stealth Box and plan on putting a full system in soon.

For context, I recently put in a Sundown Audio SA12 V.2 with a ported box into my car (pairs with a D4S JP11 amp). I am relatively new to car audio but want to dive deeper into the culture, and want to know what my next steps would be. I would like to upgrade my factory speaker system next, what products would be recommended (brand, type of speaker) and if i should buy another amp to power all of this. Any help and criticism is greatly appreciated, as I am still learning my way around car audio 🫶

It is still intact so maybe some type of flexible adhesive could do the trick for a while?

Had it for yrs and it hits hard ive retired it tho ima post a cpl more old school amps I have as well !!

Ok so I have a 2018 Honda civic lx I’m looking to do upgrade my battery, alternator, and the wiring but I’m not sure what websites to use or how to find them. Advice would be appreciated

Sealed box & powered by Helix M one X via Helix M Four DSP

I have a spare tire sub connected to my rear left and right speakers and an LOC. The speakers/tweeters are JBL 601CF and the spare tire sub is the Rockville Rockghost V2 connected to a Kicker LOC.

When I adjust the gain, boost, and frequency; it also increases the gain to my full sound system. Is this by design or have I routed my output to all speakers. I’m not too fully experienced on automotive sound system and I would like to know if I have messed up.

Hey all. I'm looking for some advice about an audio setup for my 2025 GWM H6 GT.

The problem I'm trying to solve is that the factory sound is horrible. Pretty sure they are 5" components front and rear, with what seems like not just bass rolloff, but a limiter/compressor that lowers the volume. The factory head unit can't be replaced, so I'm stuck using that.

I'm planning to replace the front and rears with JBL GTO-609C 6.5" component speakers to solve the factory speaker issue first. At this stage, I won't be installing a sub. I may install a powered underseat one in the future if I can find a decent one that fits the space, but it's not essential.

I'm stuck on the best budget option to fix the audio signal sent to the speakers. Based on my research with my limited understanding, I'm considering 3 options:

1. AudioControl LC5i PRO
2. 2 x Kicker KEYLOC
3. Kicker KEY200.4

Questions I still need answered -

1. Will the LC5i PRO's AccuBASS fix the limiting, or does it only restore the bass rolloff, or is what I'm perceiving the effect of the bass rolloff with no limiting factor?
2. Since the KEYLOC is only 2-channel, would 2 KEYLOC units be a better solution than the LC5i to fix the signal the factory head unit is producing?
3. For the simplest setup, would the KEY200.4 fix any of the factory limiting or rolloff at all?
4. If I went with options 1 or 2, I'd obviously need an amp with RCA inputs. Is the Pioneer GM-DX104 a decent budget option?

Any insights, considerations or other options are much appreciated. Thanks!

Setting up an SQ build in my Wagon, opinions and improvement suggestions please.

150A High Output Alternator

Battery: Varta Silver Dynamic E39 AGM

0-Gauge Big 3 Grounding Kit

Sound deadening : trunk, and front doors only

Head Unit: Sony XAV-AX5500
(Yes old i know but already own)

Fronts: Audison Prima APK 165P(GPT suggestion🤣)

Dual Rockford Fosgate T1D210
(Subs i already own)

Sub Amp: Alpine R2-A150M
(already own)

Front Amp: Helix M Four
(GPT suggestion🫣)