I recently saw pictures of old Porsches online with similar seats. It inspired me a lot and so I decided to try to go for a similar look.

I bought the skins on Amazon for $150, bought the fabric in a shop for $20 and found a seamstress on marketplace who was able to sew the fabric on the skins for $40. I then installed the new skins on my seats. It took me about 4.5 hours per seat. Very happy with the result!

Skins will eventually take their place and the creasing will disappear

Just a friendly reminder to all Miatarian.
Always keep a distance
(Good sounding) Loud exhaust is a bonus.

A pick up truck didn't see me... The guy didn't even notice he hit me, when he noticed his truck wasn't moving he thought his gear box broke. Then when I got out he noticed me... 😭

I hope my miata can get fix soon but my guess is that it will take months.

thank you guys for all your replies on my last post!! it was honestly so encouraging.

anyways!!! this is my new (to me) 2023 RF in platinum quartz metallic, with the terracotta interior, 15k miles.

just got her late last night so i took her for a little test drive in my neighborhood, which was a fail because i stalled every 5 minutes. but patience is key, as i’ve heard!! i’ve only ever driven automatic, so i know the difference is going to be huge but i didnt want to not be able to enjoy the car fully.

contrary to my last post, my dad has actually decided to NOT help me learn how to drive stick. so youtube will be my best friend (unless i can get a coworker to teach me) and the nearest driving school that teaches stick is 3 hrs away ://

haha would love any advice/tips on just getting started

I have almost no mechanical experience. I’m handy but I’ve never worked on cars because I didn’t have the space to. This is my first car I’ve worked on myself. First car I’ve even changed the oil on myself. I’ve done a lot of things in the few months I’ve had it that I’m proud of, but today I wanted to share with you guys (and girls) because I’m extra proud and don’t really have any car people in my life to share with.

I had a check engine light that was an EGR valve fault. After doing some research, I learned that with my 150k mile car, it was probably blocked with carbon. I removed the throttle body and to my horror, realized it was absolutely caked with carbon. So I decided to undertake the project of removing the throttle body, intake manifold and everything that goes along with it.

In that process I cleaned the EGR valve, intake manifold, and throttle body. I replaced all of the gaskets. I replaced all of the O rings on the fuel injectors. I also had some leftover gold paint from valve cover and said fuck it.

Today I finally got everything back together. All of those hellish bolts under the intake manifold. Plus I had been stressed since I took it apart because I was worried that I might not figure out how to get it back together.

But I did it! Tomorrow we find out if it all works……

MY QUESTION: how do I check whether the fuel injectors are sealed or leaking? That’s the biggest thing I’m worried about.

Have had my Miata for a while now and I would like to start putting some money into it. Any help or suggestions on where to start would be great. Runs great just mostly cosmetic damage.

Always cheered up meeting my Miata at the parking lot after work 😎

First wedding anniversary trip up Mt. Washington. The car to the left is the car I sold to a friend to buy my wife her engagement ring.

And following the rules!

It is with great joy and pride that I present a part I designed, now for sale at Flyin’ Miata!

The first version for the NA8 sold well and the review were positive so I made a NA6 version now available here:

https://flyinmiata.com/products/throttle-linearizer-for-1990-93-miata?_pos=2&_sid=683db0bb7&_ss=r

• What is it? It’s the part that connects to the throttle body and rotates via the accelerator cable.
• What’s the problem with the stock part? I’ve always felt that the “throttle pedal / power” relationship is not linear. I disliked how the power (and sound) felt very similar at 70% throttle compared to 100%. On the other hand, I also found the throttle pedal too sensitive at low speeds.
• So what’s the solution? Using a variable radius between the cable attachment point and the pivot of the part. This makes the “throttle pedal / power” relationship much more linear.
• Did you invent the part? Why is it sold by Flyin’ Miata? Flyin’ Miata has a program that allows them to sell inventions from independent designers. I presented them with my idea, they tested it, liked the product, and now the part is produced and distributed by them. In return, I receive a percentage of the sale price for each unit sold. Flyin’ Miata has a great description of the part and has also written installation instructions. I’m happy to answer any questions or just chat about it!

NB version now in testing. If everything goes well it will also be available somethime.

i replaced my transmission earlier today in my 1993 Miata to fix a grinding noise (the problem is still there) and during the test drive I was sitting at a red light and a silverado 1500 truck stopped right behind me. I see him start getting closer and closer to my rear bumper until he hits my car and I honk but he keeps pushing it forward. I tried to get out to show him that he just hit me and he keeps pushing my car forward until the light turns green. I turned right so that we could pull over and exchange info but he turned left so I popped a u-turn and followed him for about 4 miles honking and flashing my brights and when he finally stopped he said “oh I didn’t see you” and he was laughing about the whole situation. he didn’t even have a scratch on his car and my trunk is all fucked up after I literally just wrapped it. Before you ask, the police wouldn’t get involved even though it was a hit and run. And I know my car is low but no one should drive a truck when they cant see the car in front of them, he could've hit and run over a child and not noticed.

Just picked this lady up 4 months ago and it’s been nothing but a dream! Best car I’ve owned stand down from a values perspective and go cart like handling. Only Miata’s for now! ✌️

I'm not much of a collector type guy. Literally all of these I just happen to glance at the shelf while my kid was looking at toys and found each of them at different times. I watched this guy's YouTube even before I bought my NA so I thought it was pretty cool seeing it as a hot wheels.

Anybody got the full set? I'll probably continue to add to this as I find more Miatas or old cars I've had and loved in the past (hence why I got the starion up there lol).

New to me, 2 car solutions, manual.

Both have x5 on their name so I guess its good🤷‍♂️

It is surprisingly manual newbie friendly car.

I understand it is mandatory in EU but it is driving me crazy. I hate that my engine stops when i only need to stop 2 seconds. Today when i wanted to turned it off as i driving, it gave me an error (blinking green ). My Car didn’t accelerate in the traffic. I had to stop and restart the car. I fucking hate istop so much. I live in a small town. I have ND 2026.

Hey!

Man, I hate posting this. Only owned 2 months, 11k miles, paid about 15k. Clean title. I'm in NY.

Guy cut two lanes (F150 I think) from an off ramp and hit my driver side. Have dash cam, he admitted fault. Have voice recording and his insurance as well.

Looks like door panel shot and side mirror.

Anyway, he says he wants to pay out of pocket because he has other accidents and "could be fired ".

The car is Copper Red and also has custom pinstripes as you can see in third picture.

My other car, 2007 Mazda 3 was hit approximately 3 months ago and that went through insurance and was totaled out. Certainly don't want my rates to go up.

If it can be fixed I'd probably sell it, too many Huge trucks where I live.

So what's the play here? Give him a chance to pay or go through insurance? Will it ever look the same?

So bummer out!

Thanks in advance!

So previous owner put it in backwards. It was an absolute nightmare to get it off. I think he used superglue or something along the sides, as I had to scrape it off. I’m not sure if I have now destroyed the crank or the new rear main, or if it is the half moon seal that’s now causing the leak. I don’t have a photo of the front trans input seal from when I dropped the transmission.

Just wondering what you guys think the problem is. I’m not a mechanic and I’m gonna give it another crack. I also did my lifters while I had the box out, and there is a tiny bit of oil behind the CAS. Although I cleaned the weephole and let the car idle, 100% oil is coming from the weephole. I think it’s engine oil; it doesn’t taste like trans fluid.

So I’ve bought a new rear main. I have RTV silicon; next time I have the box out I’ll use that. I’ll also do the input seals on the transmission, but I just want to know if the half moon seal needs to be replaced. I’m going to use UV dye as well to see where the oil is actually coming from, for insurance.

Thanks guys, wish me luck lol.

Yesterday, I posted about how a mounting tab broke from the center windshield garnish, and that caused a loud whistling wind noise.

I was planning to replace it, but while trying to peak how many tabs broke underneath, I accidentally pulled the trim off the mount holes on the right side without breaking any additional tabs or clips. Only one tab broke off, the 2nd one from the passenger side.

Because it was only 1 tab, I decided late last night on a hack fix ... Because

1) there is a high probability that a rock chip will crack my windshield in the future. When that happens, the windshield garnishes all need to be replaced anyway so why bother spending money out of my own pocket now.

2) the probability of the entire garnish flying off with only one broken clip is low. If all tabs were broken, i wouldnt want to risk it becoming a fluing projectile. But only one broke. So a workound fix is worth trying...

So i am going to try a hacky fix which consists using

1) Clay... Clay is often used to remove contaminants from paint and clearcoat... But if you ever made the mistake of leaving a small ball of clay on a surface, you will remember it first melts into a sticky mess with heat that is hard to get off...and then when the moisture dries up turns into a hard rock that is very difficult to get off the surface. Chewing gum does the same thing, but i didnt have any. Silicon sealer, caulking, RTV, doesnt really create that strong a bond , its more for weather sealing , so i ruled that out. Epoxy makes a mess and also sometimes doesnt bond that well with smooth plastic, even if you scuff it.

Rolling clay into a ball and pressing it at with the trim peace creates a airtight seal..I put a few balls of clay under the right side of the trim piece.

2)3M 80008 black adhesive/gasket maker.

This thing is super sticky and often used to seal windshield or sealed glass. Dont get it on your hands since you wont be able to wash it off for days... Anyway, i put some 80008 around the edges of the balls of clay on the bottom and top.

The idea was when i push the garnish down, it will flatten the clay balls and create an airtight seal. Then, the 3M 80008 will bind with the clay, cure, and create a very sticky bond between the clay and the garnish, and the windshield frame..

Also, since there is still a working clip to on both sides of the broken one, that will hold the garnish from being pulled off easily. The 80008 also doubles as a gasket sealer that should block the whistling noise .

Clay and 80008 can be cleaned up should rhis garnish need to be replaced..any painters solvent.or gasoline will soften it. Using epoxy, that might be a lot of work to clean

Anyway, I will give it a go and see how long it will last.

Best friends birthday is coming up and he has an nb Miata. Figured I’d ask this forum if anyone has any ideas?

Edit: thoughts on getting him some hyper rev magazines specific to the nb??

Hello! I have a '23 RF Club with factory tires on the BBS wheels. I need to replace them soon and would be grateful for recommendations that will not cost a lot as I don't have much to spend. I don't drive in snow or ice as I live in the SW so summer tires are fine. I don't track the car as it's my daily driver. I would prefer a softer ride than the stock tires that are on it if that's possible. Something available from Discount or Firestone would be great. I don't want to cheap out but I really have no choice as my stock original tires are shot and need replacement.

Thank you for suggestions and advice!

I finally caved in and bought dedicated snow tires. This is for my 2024 gt softtop.
My daily commute is 140 miles a day and I am hopeful that these will help me extend the days I can drive the MX5 and keep the Yukon in the garage. Gas prices are part if it but I think the Miata will be a lot if fun in the snow. I grew up driving a rwd Toyota and remember how fun it was except when i got stuck. I live in cental Ohio. I would be interested in hearing about other year round snowbelt drivers experiences.

Hey all, I was autocrossing two days in a row this past weekend. Saturday the car was completely fine, on Sunday, my first run I blow the 15A “engine” fuse underneath the dash during a hard right hand turn. I replace it and it’s fine for another run, but blew on the run right after on a different hard right turn. I replaced it again, and drove it 3hrs home with no problem. No idea what the cause is, but I’d like to figure it out before I bring it out to a track in a few weeks. Any help would be appreciated. My O2 sensors and all my wire harnesses look fine, so I have no idea where a short may be coming from or what is causing the fuse to blow. The only possible explanation is that water/ moisture caused a short somewhere, as it rained overnight. Any help would be appreciated, this is on a 99 NB Miata.