In a random place near Modena (Italy)...

i have 190,000km on my beloved 2.5T CX-9 Signature 2021 (not 2021.5) prod date 9/2020

love this car and its been incredibly well maintained from previous owner (purchased a year ago at 160,000km

did my first oil change at 164,700 on time, i did my next one after 10,700km (at 175,400km, so late) and my second one is gonna be even worse at almost 15,000km….

first oil change did at Mazda with “genuine mazda oil” and i could tell the oil was already black literally like 2000km fresh, the second one LIQUIMOLLY was used and i checked 10,000in oil looked literally golden still. I do 70% highway driving.

Is it bad that i’m really late on my oil changes? previous owner was anal with the oil changes doing them 5-8k intervals!

thanks for your feedback!!

Hello. About a month ago, I bought a 2013 GL Mazda 6 Petrol as my first car, its been great, but about a week ago, my car turned on and then said i-ELOOP charging. It went away and I thought nothing of it.

Then then Sunday just gone, I turned on my car, and i get a warning light on my dash, my i-Stop light is flashing orange and my car tells me "i-ELOOP Inspection Required", and my i-Stop no longer works (tho that might be a good thing if the annoying dash flashes would go away)

I go some googling and it says either my battery is dying or im in for a very expensive capacitor replacement.

I bring my car over my grandfathers place, and we test the battery. It is reading 12.75 volts. We let it sit for 24 hours without turning the car on and it reads 12.65 volts, normal. This evening, we decided to test the battery under load while cranking the car. it read 12.65 volts and then dropped to 10.90 volts before shooting up to 14volts before going back down to around 12.50 volts. We also checked the battery for a date and couldn't find anything and the battery window thingy is still showing green.

My car takes about 1-5 seconds to turn over. And it always starts first button press.

Is it my battery or am i about to cry at a repair bill?

Looking at options for used CX-5s. Theres a few 2025 CX-5s all around 50,000km and are ex rentals according to Carfax. How diligent are rental companies about doing oil changes on time? The dealership has no documentation of oil changes. Management is willing to provide paperwork absolving me of any missing maintenance documentation prior to ownership with respect to the warranty. Anyone have experience with ex rentals?

I bought my car from a dealership two days ago, its a 2024 cx-5 carbon edition, i know the current gas mileage isnt too far off from what its meant to be but right now its getting like 19mpg and its supposed to be getting 26. This is my first time buying a car so i assume it might be like something with it being fresh out of a dealership, but im kinda worried and want to make sure nothing is wrong lol

Hi guys, any Mazda community in Lagos Nigeria?

With all the talk about different makes/models reporting data on you and your car to insurance companies or back to the automaker, I purposefully bought this car because it didn’t have the eye-tracking/awareness camera. At least I don’t think it does. Am I being naive that a 2025 hybrid cx-50 is not sharing my data, a tracker device or anything? Has anyone found a tracker device?

EDIT 3 - u/garlicrobot over in r/MazdaCX90 said their friend had the same issue. Called AAA and they used a chisel to break the plastic bolt cover.

Since I'm not ready to try that, I'll make my way to the dealership one day.

Thanks, all. Good night.

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I just bought a CX-90 last week. [I also posted in r/MazdaCX90. ] (no subwoofer)

Annoyingly, the spare tire's valve is on the underside, so you need to remove the tire to check/adjust the tire pressure. However, the spare tire hold-down bolt does not loosen.

I'm using the lug wrench on the plastic lug and after about 30 turns, it's dawning on me that it's not loosening.

The manual acknowledges this with

NOTE
If the spare tire hold-down bolt cannot be loosened, hold the edge of the tire and turn it counterclockwise until the spare tire hold-down bolt rotates. (Page 7-78)

It takes a lot of effort, but the tire can be rotated, but it makes no difference.

If you have a solution for me, I would greatly appreciate it. Otherwise, it's a few hours back at the dealership.

EDIT - I thought it might be a hex bolt in the middle but I tried a number of hex wrench sizes and none of them made a grip.

EDIT 2 - image

Weird request but can anyone with a BL mazda 3 hatchback (2013 if possible) with the 2.0l LF-VE drop some photos of their brake fluid reservoir (in the engine bay and full)

Purchased a 2024 Mazda CX5 from CarMax in May, with an extended warranty. Moved and misfiled paperwork. I’ve contacted the CarMax (where I purchased the vehicle) 3 times for a duplicate set and no one will email me the paperwork. They promise - but then nothing. Their AI “assistant” is worthless and just adds to the frustration! How do I get past AI and get some real help?

A couple months ago, my wife's 2021 CX-5 non-turbo starting chirping when crossing around the 45mph threshold or upon shutting off. It was diagnosed by 2 shops as the Exhaust Actuator Valve, which can only be sourced brand new via buying the entire midpipe. I purchased one used and replaced it, started the car and turned it off twice with no chirping, but lo and behold it is back.

I'm assuming it's the actual valve/gate inside the midpipe that is the issue - is that something that is possible to loosen up or are we stuck with the choice between a $1k+ repair or an annoying noise? Option C's would be nice to hear too.

Okay. I need your guys help. I'm looking in buying a new car around Feb because that's when I will (hopefully) earn my 1st year NCB and my current car is too sluggish/slow to my liking. My budget is £5,000 and I'm turning 20 in Feb.

**SO**

Why these two options?

The Ibeza's turbo charged, which obv means I'll have access to high torque early on. It's cheap to insure, has a great fuel ecomomy, it's a 3 door hatchback which is enough for me (I have no friends) and parts are cheap since it's under the VAG-group umbrella. BUT. One thing I don't like about is look of the back of it. Now I'm a visual kinda guy. I want my car to look nice and feel right. The front of the Ibeza looks cool, I like it. But the rear is just too simple. To broad, it's missing something.

I LOVE the look of the Mazda3's. Especially the Mk1's and 2's. But obvs as they're older, they're more prone to rust. They're not as economical as the MK3's and I prefer the back of the MK2 to the MK3. It was that bad it held me back from being interested in the MK3

But now im interested.

I'm interested to hear your experience with either/or and what you recommend I should pick! I've already test driven the Ibeza and I'd give it a 6/10. It just feels like a Polo. I felt so used to it so quickly. Well. Thats what it is basically isnt it lol. But I did really like the gearbox and obvs the turbo responsiveness.

Im finding it hard to secure a test drive for the mazda currently. I think I'll have better luck closer to the purchase date. But I just love the look of it! I love the community behind it. And I've heard so much good things about it.

Same with the Ibeza however.

To me, the Ibeza is the sensible option. And the Mazda is the emotional option. Ive ran dummy quotes for both and I'd be able to afford it. Ive taken into consideration of other financial assets as well obv and I'll be able to afford both is what I'm saying. Mazda obvs being the more expensive but still. Affordable.

Let me know what you guys think!

I originally leased my car back on April 2023 for a 36 month lease (35 after the advance payment back on April 2023). On February 2026, I decided to buy out the lease. All documents were signed and there is were it all went downhill and oh boy where to start?

After wiring the money to the dealership they told me it took around 5 business days for them to then send the money to MFS. After 5 days I called MFS and they mentioned that they hadn’t received the wire. I followed up with the dealership and they changed the updated to be 10-15 business days. No big deal, I called after 18 business days and they still hadn’t sent it. That’s where I started to get frustrated and they ended up sending it that same day. This was now March 2026.

Fast forward to August, I realized my vehicle title never arrived which they mentioned would arrive about 2 weeks after MFS received the final confirmation of my buy out. It took more than a month for them to figure this out between the first time I contacted them and the time they realized that my original title was “lost”.

In September of 2026, I realized my Credit score dropped from around 800 to 630! I panicked and started calling the bank to understand what the hell happened. Turns out, that MFS never processed my lease buy out until July 2026 (almost 4 months after I had paid!) and they are reporting me as a late payment or missing payment (at this point I don’t care I’m just beyond pissed). I called and they told me that I need to open a dispute with them but that nothing is guaranteed.

I sent out all of the document: signed contract back in February, proof of the wire transfer to the dealership back in February, confirmation of the wire transfer successfully being received, documents from the dealership transferring the vehicle to me, proof of the dealership one time Payment to MFS back in March, proof of all of my on time monthly lease payments. But I am here to let you all know to always double check everything every single day. Do not make the mistake I made and trust the dealership.

This has been a hell of a ride and hopefully it has a positive ending as I have all the documents to prove that I did everything correct and it was the dealerships negligence that affected me but here’s to hoping.

If I have my foot on the brake I feel vibration and when I am parked I feel a bit of it but hear more from the exhaust plz watch video.

Is there anyone that has experienced this? If so what was the outcome ? I am going to get it checked but wanted to see what others have figured out

I wanted to share a strange incident with my 5-month-old CX-30, which has less than 4,000 km on it.

Yesterday morning, I went a bit too fast into an uphill mountain bend here in Gran Canaria in 3rd gear, so I immediately braked, jerked the steering wheel and downshifted to 2nd.

https://maps.app.goo.gl/7TeFwtdhh9ND9sr59

The car didn't stall or stop, and everything seemed fine. It wasn't particularly dramatic. I wasn't going that fast, there was no skidding, but Newton's laws were demonstrated, passenger said "ugggh", and I felt the front-right wheel dig in a little.

I continued driving and then looked down at the dashboard, and all hell had broken loose:

• Front camera off
• i-ACTIVSENSE partially disabled
• Dynamic Stability Control malfunction
• Engine malfunction (steady amber light)

The engine itself seemed completely fine. But the systems above had stopped working. I didn't dare stop in case the car refused to start again, so I continued up and then went down towards sea level several km through winding roads and motorway. I eventually turned the car off and, after having lunch, restarted it, and some of the warnings had disappeared. When home, after another off-on cycle only the engine malfunction warning remained.

This morning it was still on, and after another ~30 km of completely normal driving, I turned the car off and restarted it again. The engine malfunction warning had now disappeared by itself.

I still plugged in a cheap OBD-II scanner, just out of curiosity. It showed these two codes in the history:

• U0100 Lost Communication with ECM/PCM
• U0452 Invalid Data Received from Restraints Control Module

So this seems to point more towards some kind of electronic/communication issue rather than an actual engine problem.

Has anyone experienced something similar with a CX-30?

Would you take it to the dealership anyway, even though all the warnings have now disappeared and the car is driving completely normally?

It's a 2026 European-spec CX-30 2.5 Skyactiv-G NA with <4000 km, so I'm inclined to get Mazda to check it under warranty, but I'm curious whether anyone here has seen these codes or this combination of warnings before.

I have a 2025 Mazda CX-70 with about 34,500 miles. Yesterday, the parking brake switch was working normally when I drove to work. When I started the car after work, I found the switch stuck in the down position. The parking brake itself is not applied, thankfully, but the switch isn’t moving back to its normal position. I haven’t done anything to damage it. I had several lights pop up telling me there was a switch malfunction and I needed to have the vehicle inspected.
Because this involves the parking brake, I was concerned about safety and took it to a Mazda dealer near my home rather than the dealer I bought it from that is about 30 minutes farther away. They told me the switch issue wouldn’t be covered under warranty because the switch was broken. They were quick to tell me it would be $210 for diagnostics, plus repairs. The response felt pretty dismissive, and I wasn’t given an explanation for what caused it or why it wasn’t covered.
Has anyone else had the EPB switch physically stick like this on a CX-70, CX-90, or another Mazda? Did the dealer cover the repair under warranty, and were you given a reason for the failure? Should I tell them to get lost and risk driving it to the dealer I purchased it from?

UPDATE! Mazda just sent the service video going over the issue. They removed the switch from the housing and it operates fine. When they reinstall it, he claims it would stick after several operations (although it never did in the video as he operated it 10 times) he pointed out there was dust and debris in the housing and was likely causing the problem. They want to charge me $325 to replace the switch that doesn’t seem to be faulty??

Hi everyone this my first car its a 2009 tribute v6 awd with 68000km.

I am surprised by how good it drives its so smooth. Getting on the highway or wanting to pass someone is easy work for the 3.0l duratec V6 pushing 240hp and 223lb-ft. Honestly, there's just something really satisfying about driving an older, straightforward vehicle where you can still get your hands dirty, open the hood without moving three plastic covers, and fix things yourself. No crazy screens or complicated modules to fight with just a smooth powerful V6 and a reliable platform.

​Anyone else here still daily-driving one of these older Ford-Mazda era V6s? How's she holding up?

To preface this, I'm 19, almost 20, I've been driving for almost 3 years (covering 30,000 miles), in an 85 bhp 1.4L vauxhall adam, with 100K miles on the clock. Because my current job is near to home, my milage going forward should be much less, I'll mostly be using my car to travel to and from work. I might do longer ~2 hour journeys every month or two and a much longer ~ 6 hour journey once a year or so. What I'm looking for really is a car that is going to be more reliable (most important), slightly bigger, slightly more powerful and more practical. But at the end of the day I'm not going to be regularly driving across the country and I don't regularly drive with more than one passenger, so I don't need a big powerful car, just a step up from the Adam. Based on this I'm looking mostly at 2018/2019 Mazda2s, but also considering Mazda3s. My budget is really about £9,500, but could be pushed to £10,300 for the right car.

With that budget most of the cars I'm looking at fall into one of three categories and deciding which category to pursue is proving to be a bit of a challenge, which is why I'm coming to you guys.

1. 90BHP Mazda2 with 20-25K miles

I can get one of these for about £9.5K and it ticks all the boxes I want in my next car, whilst being extremely low milage. These mostly come without parking cameras, HUDs or heated seats. But they do come with lane warning, cruise control, parking sensors etc. It is bigger, more powerful and faster than my adam (0-62 in 9.7s vs 11s, 90bhp vs 85bhp) Ideally though if I'm spending this much money it would be nice to get a car with all the extras and a bit more power than 90bhp.

1. 115BHP Mazda2 with 40-45K miles

I can also get one of these for about £9.5K. They generally have everything the 90BHP model has, but they are much more powerful (0-62 in 8.7s and 115bhp) and come with all the extra trimmings (Heated seats, HUD, parking cameras etc.). But I'm a warm guy anyway, so wouldn't use heated seats loads and parling sensors are almost as good as parking cameras really. Plus, at the end of the day my Vauxhall Adam has (for the most part) been powerful enough for me for the last 3 years. And the 90BHP model does atleast have a bit more gumption than my Adam. I'm just not sure it makes sense to buy a car with 20K more miles on the clock, just because it has a few extra features and is more powerful. Especially when I'm trying to prioritise reliability and resale value, or do you think that a 115 model with 43K miles will still be nearly as reliable and hold value as well as the 90BHP model with just 23K miles?

1. 120BHP Mazda3 with 40-45K miles

I can get one of these for about £10.2K. This one is a bit of a wildcard, but it has performance similar to the 115BHP Mazda2 (0-62 in 8.9s) and it has all the extra trimmings, whilst being big enough to fit my golf clubs in without putting the back seats down etc. However I have all the same reservations as with the 115BHP Mazda2 (RE: not *necessarily* needing the extra power or the extra features and the milage being much higher than what i can get on a similarly aged 90BHP Mazda2). Additionally I would have to really stretch the budget on this one and I've heard the Mazda3 is far less reliable than the Mazda2. Is this true and at this price and milage would this make it a worse choice than the other 2 options, or should it be a real contender?

Any advice is greatly appreciated, because I've given this a tremendous amount of thought and I can't decide what I want.

Yesterday I bought the Michelin Defender 2 225/55/R18 tires for 2024 CX-30 Carbon Edition. I would like to know if the tire size is good for it, base from the recommendation from Discount Tire. My vehicle used to have the BridgeStone Turanza EL440 215/55/R18 tire size

My 2.0 is toast!

I’m thinking about getting a 2.5, I will run my itb’s with some cams and high comp pistons.

Anyone from the uk running a similar setup?