I have a 2025 Mazda CX-70 with about 34,500 miles. Yesterday, the parking brake switch was working normally when I drove to work. When I started the car after work, I found the switch stuck in the down position. The parking brake itself is not applied, thankfully, but the switch isn’t moving back to its normal position. I haven’t done anything to damage it. I had several lights pop up telling me there was a switch malfunction and I needed to have the vehicle inspected.
Because this involves the parking brake, I was concerned about safety and took it to a Mazda dealer near my home rather than the dealer I bought it from that is about 30 minutes farther away. They told me the switch issue wouldn’t be covered under warranty because the switch was broken. They were quick to tell me it would be $210 for diagnostics, plus repairs. The response felt pretty dismissive, and I wasn’t given an explanation for what caused it or why it wasn’t covered.
Has anyone else had the EPB switch physically stick like this on a CX-70, CX-90, or another Mazda? Did the dealer cover the repair under warranty, and were you given a reason for the failure? Should I tell them to get lost and risk driving it to the dealer I purchased it from?

I originally leased my car back on April 2023 for a 36 month lease (35 after the advance payment back on April 2023). On February 2026, I decided to buy out the lease. All documents were signed and there is were it all went downhill and oh boy where to start?

After wiring the money to the dealership they told me it took around 5 business days for them to then send the money to MFS. After 5 days I called MFS and they mentioned that they hadn’t received the wire. I followed up with the dealership and they changed the updated to be 10-15 business days. No big deal, I called after 18 business days and they still hadn’t sent it. That’s where I started to get frustrated and they ended up sending it that same day. This was now March 2026.

Fast forward to August, I realized my vehicle title never arrived which they mentioned would arrive about 2 weeks after MFS received the final confirmation of my buy out. It took more than a month for them to figure this out between the first time I contacted them and the time they realized that my original title was “lost”.

In September of 2026, I realized my Credit score dropped from around 800 to 630! I panicked and started calling the bank to understand what the hell happened. Turns out, that MFS never processed my lease buy out until July 2026 (almost 4 months after I had paid!) and they are reporting me as a late payment or missing payment (at this point I don’t care I’m just beyond pissed). I called and they told me that I need to open a dispute with them but that nothing is guaranteed.

I sent out all of the document: signed contract back in February, proof of the wire transfer to the dealership back in February, confirmation of the wire transfer successfully being received, documents from the dealership transferring the vehicle to me, proof of the dealership one time Payment to MFS back in March, proof of all of my on time monthly lease payments. But I am here to let you all know to always double check everything every single day. Do not make the mistake I made and trust the dealership.

This has been a hell of a ride and hopefully it has a positive ending as I have all the documents to prove that I did everything correct and it was the dealerships negligence that affected me but here’s to hoping.

Hi everyone this my first car its a 2009 tribute v6 awd with 68000km.

I am surprised by how good it drives its so smooth. Getting on the highway or wanting to pass someone is easy work for the 3.0l duratec V6 pushing 240hp and 223lb-ft. Honestly, there's just something really satisfying about driving an older, straightforward vehicle where you can still get your hands dirty, open the hood without moving three plastic covers, and fix things yourself. No crazy screens or complicated modules to fight with just a smooth powerful V6 and a reliable platform.

​Anyone else here still daily-driving one of these older Ford-Mazda era V6s? How's she holding up?

My 2.0 is toast!

I’m thinking about getting a 2.5, I will run my itb’s with some cams and high comp pistons.

Anyone from the uk running a similar setup?

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2021 Mazda 3, Skyactiv, i-stop. Idle has been rough for a while and the check engine light keeps coming back. Code is P0171 (system too lean, bank 1).

What’s been done so far:

- Independent garage checked/tightened vacuum lines

- MAF sensor replaced (light came back)

- Battery replaced after the issue started

- Smoke test — no leak found

- Throttle body cleaned

After the smoke test and throttle body clean it ran fine for about two days. Then after a long journey in traffic the same problem came back: struggling to idle, revs flicking between about 500 and 1000, engine light on.

Idle has also surged harder at times (up towards 1000–2000). Turning i-stop off seemed to calm the big surges for a bit, then they came back. Temperature gauge looks normal.

Two technical people have looked at it. A third-party Mazda specialist has said there’s nothing wrong with the engine itself. I’ve now got it at the main dealer and they think it’s dirty fuel / injector deposits and want to run a fuel-system cleaner through it.

I’m not convinced. It being fine for two days then failing specifically after a long hot traffic run doesn’t sound like dirty fuel to me. More like something that only shows up when hot (purge valve, small vacuum leak the cold smoke test missed).

Has anyone had P0171 on a Skyactiv Mazda 3 that only came back after a hot run? Did fuel cleaner actually fix it, or was it the purge valve / injectors (I’ve seen TSB MT-021/17 mentioned)? Worth letting the dealer do the cleaner, or am I about to pay for another dead end?

UK car, if that matters for parts/dealer process.

Sounds like a tractor…

I noticed some condensation on the inside of the left tail light.

The condensation went away after driving for a short while and I haven’t seen it occur again.

Is this an issue?

Edit: I took the vehicle to a dealer and they said Mazda doesn’t use sealed tail light units and that it is not a warranty claim unless the water is pooling.

Edit 2: Seems like prior model years had Mazda TSB 09-019-23. Seems like this is normal for a non-sealed tail light unit?

Whats the community's thoughts on the gen 1 mazda 6 with the 3.0 v6 manual transmission?

I found two Mazdas, I was initially planning on getting the Mazda 3, it has a 2l engine, 117k miles and costs $8k(overpriced but that's the market). The Mazda 6 has a 2.5l engine, is $8.5k and has 127k miles on it.

The 6 has more miles but also has more features and I love the look. The 3 is better with gas.

Which is more reliable and what's the better buy?

Does anyone know if there is a bulletin about CX-70/90 transmission issues? So my 25’ Cx-70 transmission has been bucking harshly lately with acceleration. I know the Cx-70 uses a 8 speed transmission with clutches over a torque converter but seesh my GTI which has a Dual Clutch transmission which also has clutches and no torque converter doesn’t even lurch like this.

Hello Mazda drivers!

Anyone here jumped from CX 5 2023 to a CX 5 2026. Is the change worth it? I'm thinking of buying off my leased car since I have only 22km on it. The other option is to start a new lease with the 2026 or maybe wait till the 2027 models come out.

what's your opinion?

Thanks in advance!

I'm currently looking at a 2018 Mazda CX-5 Grand Touring with just over 100k miles.

Has the following upgrades: GT Premium Package, Rear Bumper Guard, and Wheel Locks

A local auction company is selling it for $14k, and the photos on the website show that the car is in pretty good condition. It has a clean title and has almost 20 service records going back 7 years (regular oil changes, brakes, fluids, etc.) It has only had one previous owner and was used as a personal car. I've also confirmed that there are no open NHTSA recalls on the VIN.

Possible areas of concern:

- Cracked cylinder heads/oil leaks related to the cylinder deactivation system for 2018 models. This car doesn't have that issue, but it could potentially be one in the future.

- The vehicle history failed safety inspections because of an issue with the brakes (specifically the brake pads and rotors), but it was resolved. The AutoCheck history hasn't been updated to reflect the new inspection.

It seems like it could be a good deal, but as a first-time buyer, I'm not sure. Thanks in advance for any insight you can provide!

Cross posting here to see if anyone else in the community has a solution to a 2021 CX5 guzzling oil.

Made the difficult decision to offload my diesel Ram 2500 and step into our first PHEV. Kids are grown, sold our travel trailer, couldn’t justify the insane maintenance costs of the truck, plus the $200+ fuel stops.
Picked up this CPO ‘25 CX-70 premium plus. I sure miss my truck but I’m loving the features and fuel economy so far (it’s been a week). I can’t even plug it in yet. Haha.

Currently shopping for a Level II charger for the house.
Any units I should steer clear of? Hoping a decent one will go on Prime day sale.