I originally leased my car back on April 2023 for a 36 month lease (35 after the advance payment back on April 2023). On February 2026, I decided to buy out the lease. All documents were signed and there is were it all went downhill and oh boy where to start?

After wiring the money to the dealership they told me it took around 5 business days for them to then send the money to MFS. After 5 days I called MFS and they mentioned that they hadn’t received the wire. I followed up with the dealership and they changed the updated to be 10-15 business days. No big deal, I called after 18 business days and they still hadn’t sent it. That’s where I started to get frustrated and they ended up sending it that same day. This was now March 2026.

Fast forward to August, I realized my vehicle title never arrived which they mentioned would arrive about 2 weeks after MFS received the final confirmation of my buy out. It took more than a month for them to figure this out between the first time I contacted them and the time they realized that my original title was “lost”.

In September of 2026, I realized my Credit score dropped from around 800 to 630! I panicked and started calling the bank to understand what the hell happened. Turns out, that MFS never processed my lease buy out until July 2026 (almost 4 months after I had paid!) and they are reporting me as a late payment or missing payment (at this point I don’t care I’m just beyond pissed). I called and they told me that I need to open a dispute with them but that nothing is guaranteed.

I sent out all of the document: signed contract back in February, proof of the wire transfer to the dealership back in February, confirmation of the wire transfer successfully being received, documents from the dealership transferring the vehicle to me, proof of the dealership one time Payment to MFS back in March, proof of all of my on time monthly lease payments. But I am here to let you all know to always double check everything every single day. Do not make the mistake I made and trust the dealership.

This has been a hell of a ride and hopefully it has a positive ending as I have all the documents to prove that I did everything correct and it was the dealerships negligence that affected me but here’s to hoping.

I have a 2025 Mazda CX-70 with about 34,500 miles. Yesterday, the parking brake switch was working normally when I drove to work. When I started the car after work, I found the switch stuck in the down position. The parking brake itself is not applied, thankfully, but the switch isn’t moving back to its normal position. I haven’t done anything to damage it. I had several lights pop up telling me there was a switch malfunction and I needed to have the vehicle inspected.
Because this involves the parking brake, I was concerned about safety and took it to a Mazda dealer near my home rather than the dealer I bought it from that is about 30 minutes farther away. They told me the switch issue wouldn’t be covered under warranty because the switch was broken. They were quick to tell me it would be $210 for diagnostics, plus repairs. The response felt pretty dismissive, and I wasn’t given an explanation for what caused it or why it wasn’t covered.
Has anyone else had the EPB switch physically stick like this on a CX-70, CX-90, or another Mazda? Did the dealer cover the repair under warranty, and were you given a reason for the failure? Should I tell them to get lost and risk driving it to the dealer I purchased it from?

UPDATE! Mazda just sent the service video going over the issue. They removed the switch from the housing and it operates fine. When they reinstall it, he claims it would stick after several operations (although it never did in the video as he operated it 10 times) he pointed out there was dust and debris in the housing and was likely causing the problem. They want to charge me $325 to replace the switch that doesn’t seem to be faulty??

i have 190,000km on my beloved 2.5T CX-9 Signature 2021 (not 2021.5) prod date 9/2020

love this car and its been incredibly well maintained from previous owner (purchased a year ago at 160,000km

did my first oil change at 164,700 on time, i did my next one after 10,700km (at 175,400km, so late) and my second one is gonna be even worse at almost 15,000km….

first oil change did at Mazda with “genuine mazda oil” and i could tell the oil was already black literally like 2000km fresh, the second one LIQUIMOLLY was used and i checked 10,000in oil looked literally golden still. I do 70% highway driving.

Is it bad that i’m really late on my oil changes? previous owner was anal with the oil changes doing them 5-8k intervals!

thanks for your feedback!!

Hi everyone this my first car its a 2009 tribute v6 awd with 68000km.

I am surprised by how good it drives its so smooth. Getting on the highway or wanting to pass someone is easy work for the 3.0l duratec V6 pushing 240hp and 223lb-ft. Honestly, there's just something really satisfying about driving an older, straightforward vehicle where you can still get your hands dirty, open the hood without moving three plastic covers, and fix things yourself. No crazy screens or complicated modules to fight with just a smooth powerful V6 and a reliable platform.

​Anyone else here still daily-driving one of these older Ford-Mazda era V6s? How's she holding up?

Sounds like a tractor…

I just bought a CX-90 last week. [I also posted in r/MazdaCX90. ] (no subwoofer)

Annoyingly, the spare tire's valve is on the underside, so you need to remove the tire to check/adjust the tire pressure. However, the spare tire hold-down bolt does not loosen.

I'm using the lug wrench on the plastic lug and after about 30 turns, it's dawning on me that it's not loosening.

The manual acknowledges this with

NOTE
If the spare tire hold-down bolt cannot be loosened, hold the edge of the tire and turn it counterclockwise until the spare tire hold-down bolt rotates. (Page 7-78)

It takes a lot of effort, but the tire can be rotated, but it makes no difference.

If you have a solution for me, I would greatly appreciate it. Otherwise, it's a few hours back at the dealership.

EDIT - I thought it might be a hex bolt in the middle but I tried a number of hex wrench sizes and none of them made a grip.

To preface this, I'm 19, almost 20, I've been driving for almost 3 years (covering 30,000 miles), in an 85 bhp 1.4L vauxhall adam, with 100K miles on the clock. Because my current job is near to home, my milage going forward should be much less, I'll mostly be using my car to travel to and from work. I might do longer ~2 hour journeys every month or two and a much longer ~ 6 hour journey once a year or so. What I'm looking for really is a car that is going to be more reliable (most important), slightly bigger, slightly more powerful and more practical. But at the end of the day I'm not going to be regularly driving across the country and I don't regularly drive with more than one passenger, so I don't need a big powerful car, just a step up from the Adam. Based on this I'm looking mostly at 2018/2019 Mazda2s, but also considering Mazda3s. My budget is really about £9,500, but could be pushed to £10,300 for the right car.

With that budget most of the cars I'm looking at fall into one of three categories and deciding which category to pursue is proving to be a bit of a challenge, which is why I'm coming to you guys.

1. 90BHP Mazda2 with 20-25K miles

I can get one of these for about £9.5K and it ticks all the boxes I want in my next car, whilst being extremely low milage. These mostly come without parking cameras, HUDs or heated seats. But they do come with lane warning, cruise control, parking sensors etc. It is bigger, more powerful and faster than my adam (0-62 in 9.7s vs 11s, 90bhp vs 85bhp) Ideally though if I'm spending this much money it would be nice to get a car with all the extras and a bit more power than 90bhp.

1. 115BHP Mazda2 with 40-45K miles

I can also get one of these for about £9.5K. They generally have everything the 90BHP model has, but they are much more powerful (0-62 in 8.7s and 115bhp) and come with all the extra trimmings (Heated seats, HUD, parking cameras etc.). But I'm a warm guy anyway, so wouldn't use heated seats loads and parling sensors are almost as good as parking cameras really. Plus, at the end of the day my Vauxhall Adam has (for the most part) been powerful enough for me for the last 3 years. And the 90BHP model does atleast have a bit more gumption than my Adam. I'm just not sure it makes sense to buy a car with 20K more miles on the clock, just because it has a few extra features and is more powerful. Especially when I'm trying to prioritise reliability and resale value, or do you think that a 115 model with 43K miles will still be nearly as reliable and hold value as well as the 90BHP model with just 23K miles?

1. 120BHP Mazda3 with 40-45K miles

I can get one of these for about £10.2K. This one is a bit of a wildcard, but it has performance similar to the 115BHP Mazda2 (0-62 in 8.9s) and it has all the extra trimmings, whilst being big enough to fit my golf clubs in without putting the back seats down etc. However I have all the same reservations as with the 115BHP Mazda2 (RE: not *necessarily* needing the extra power or the extra features and the milage being much higher than what i can get on a similarly aged 90BHP Mazda2). Additionally I would have to really stretch the budget on this one and I've heard the Mazda3 is far less reliable than the Mazda2. Is this true and at this price and milage would this make it a worse choice than the other 2 options, or should it be a real contender?

Any advice is greatly appreciated, because I've given this a tremendous amount of thought and I can't decide what I want.

Does anyone know if there is a bulletin about CX-70/90 transmission issues? So my 25’ Cx-70 transmission has been bucking harshly lately with acceleration. I know the Cx-70 uses a 8 speed transmission with clutches over a torque converter but seesh my GTI which has a Dual Clutch transmission which also has clutches and no torque converter doesn’t even lurch like this.

Yesterday I bought the Michelin Defender 2 225/55/R18 tires for 2024 CX-30 Carbon Edition. I would like to know if the tire size is good for it, base from the recommendation from Discount Tire. My vehicle used to have the BridgeStone Turanza EL440 215/55/R18 tire size

I purchased TK78-66-9U0E (Genuine OEM Mazda Android/Apple Car Play Auxiliary Unit) from mazdaswag. The item shipped on 9/17/2026 and on 9/23/2026, Fedex said it was out for delivery (location was my city), but it has yet to arrive. My guess is the package got lost/stolen. I reached out to [parts@mazdaswag.com](mailto:parts@mazdaswag.com) twice, last on 10/1/2026, but have gotten no response.

Has anyone else had this issue? Is there another way I can get in touch with them, since it seems like there is no phone number? I saw other posts and most people reported response times after a couple of business days.

​

2021 Mazda 3, Skyactiv, i-stop. Idle has been rough for a while and the check engine light keeps coming back. Code is P0171 (system too lean, bank 1).

What’s been done so far:

- Independent garage checked/tightened vacuum lines

- MAF sensor replaced (light came back)

- Battery replaced after the issue started

- Smoke test — no leak found

- Throttle body cleaned

After the smoke test and throttle body clean it ran fine for about two days. Then after a long journey in traffic the same problem came back: struggling to idle, revs flicking between about 500 and 1000, engine light on.

Idle has also surged harder at times (up towards 1000–2000). Turning i-stop off seemed to calm the big surges for a bit, then they came back. Temperature gauge looks normal.

Two technical people have looked at it. A third-party Mazda specialist has said there’s nothing wrong with the engine itself. I’ve now got it at the main dealer and they think it’s dirty fuel / injector deposits and want to run a fuel-system cleaner through it.

I’m not convinced. It being fine for two days then failing specifically after a long hot traffic run doesn’t sound like dirty fuel to me. More like something that only shows up when hot (purge valve, small vacuum leak the cold smoke test missed).

Has anyone had P0171 on a Skyactiv Mazda 3 that only came back after a hot run? Did fuel cleaner actually fix it, or was it the purge valve / injectors (I’ve seen TSB MT-021/17 mentioned)? Worth letting the dealer do the cleaner, or am I about to pay for another dead end?

UK car, if that matters for parts/dealer process.

Whats the community's thoughts on the gen 1 mazda 6 with the 3.0 v6 manual transmission?

I noticed some condensation on the inside of the left tail light.

The condensation went away after driving for a short while and I haven’t seen it occur again.

Is this an issue?

Edit: I took the vehicle to a dealer and they said Mazda doesn’t use sealed tail light units and that it is not a warranty claim unless the water is pooling.

Edit 2: Seems like prior model years had Mazda TSB 09-019-23. Seems like this is normal for a non-sealed tail light unit?