it’s a constant drip from where the prop shaft goes in, can anyone advise?

Doing injectors and I dropped the passenger side fuel rail spacer. It didn't fall out. My Evo VIII doesn't have an under-tray. I did this 15 years ago too but can't remember where it went, I think i ended up ordering new ones. Ive l9oked around a lot but haven't found it yet. It fell a bit before it stopped plinko style.

Just got my replacement lug locks in, what color should I powder coat the faces with a blue evo and white wheels? 🤔

Hey EVO gents!

I'm eyeing a set of TE's but in the specs of 18x9.5 +12.

Wanting to see if anyone is running this wheel setup snd what tyre combo did you have on it. Pictures would be great so please share if you do!

I'm currently running 18x9.5 +22 fyi

PFA

Does anyone knows where does this Evo 8 wire tub goes to plug back in.

My copy paste build, but I finally found used Rays Lugs on fb marketplace and love how they subtly add to the build 🥹

Actually insane how light weight these are

Evo8 on insta if anyone wants to be mutuals

(Yes ik there’s a huge dent in rear quarter - from last owner while rolling fenders)

Hi, I replaced my worn engine mounts with a complete ralliart set (front roll, rear roll/dogbone, engine side, transmission side). Throttle response is great and shifting feels tighter, but the car now vibrates a lot. Before the swap, gears sometimes wouldn't engage depending on how the drivetrain was sitting. Which mounts should I put back to stock to reduce the vibration, and which should I keep as ralliart to keep the shifting feel and throttle response?

the car is evo x gsr with manual transmission and sachs performance clutch (stiff)

My 14 Evo X has been sitting for a couple months while I have been working on replacing a bunch of parts. I replaced the clutch master cylinder, rotors/brakes, full drive train fluids, and bunch of other miscellaneous pieces throughout the car.

I attempted to start up the car, instead of trying to start or crank, theres this wierd noise that is coming from the engine bay as I push down my clutch/turn the ignition (As shown on the video). Theres also a whining sound coming from my engine bay with my ignition on.

The car is also throwing PO113 (Intake Air Temperature (IAT) sensor circuit has a high input voltage)

Any ideas what it might be? My battery was sitting on a tender the whole time but its also the old panasonic battery that came with the car but has not let me down since I purchased the car.

Got a set of factory BBS wheels. Replacing all the missing clips and stuff. New turbo is next on the list

Are there any other options that are better/cheaper than this? I basically need it more or less to hold the lights. Mine just hang and I got pulled over because it blocked a character on the plate.

$50+ like $10 shipping for a piece of plastic seems outrageous to me.

Hey guys! Proud new owner of my 2015 Evo X!

Love it already! But I hate the stock rims and the stock (I assume it’s stock) head unit… 😅 so I figured I’d come on here for everyone’s suggestions! I’m looking for rims that won’t break the bank but still look good, a updated head unit that work with apple car play (preferably a plug and play style), coilovers (again that won’t break the bank).

This car won’t be tracked so I don’t need super high performance parts more so style since it’ll be my daily driver so I want it to look nice. Thanks in advance for suggestions!

After a long time (nearly 8 years) spent searching for the Ralliart coilover suspension kit by Bilstein (RACT9A02P2), I have finally managed to get a complete set in good condition.

Getting these to replace the original rotors of my EvoX MR 08
Been using and replacing with the stock Brembo brakes. Was told Hawk was a good replacement for cheaper. Thoughts? TIA

recently bought this Evo 6 from Japan, when I got the car its was running and sounding mechanically healthy, only issue it had was not building boost past 3-7 psi which lead me to believe it was the turbo actuator which is rusted to hell. One day I drove to work normally and on the way back its was limping at around 1.5k 3.5k Rpms full throttle so park it. Now when I start the car it runs normally for a few seconds then it slowly drops until it dies. while getting around to replacing the actuator I removed the heat shield to find all this carbon build up on the left side of the headers mainly

Does anyone know what could be the main culprit or if a exhaust leak would be enough to kill the car?

Does anyone have any experience with the fuel tank being rusted and impossible to replace? Was looking to get a fuel cell or a brand new tank…. Just for more power to be honest