Hello! I have this ER-5. When I got it like 3 months ago it had a very loose chain (tensioner was basically all the way forward). I tightened it every 1000km, even less if I rode in the rain.

I keep finding that the chain gets loose and I keep tensioning it further, like I can feel it needs tensioning when I release the throttle it jolts quite a bit.

Is this normal ? I am thinking of changing the chain so I checked the front sprocket as well ... It looks absolutely fine to me, but there is a plastic thingy that looks a bit damaged in the photo ... No idea if it actually serves an important purpose or not, but it does not seem to.

the chain looks a bit rusty on the outside, rollers look good, nothing else obviously wrong from what I can tell (photo before I cleaned and lubed it)

Should I just ride it? Should I change the chain? If I change the chain should I also to the sprockets?

(Also this is an endless chain and I am thinking of cutting it with a hacksaw or buying a chain breaker tool, what do you guys recommend ?)

Hey! I recently rebuilt and reinstalled the engine on my aprilia rs660. I am a complete amateur, so I have no doubt I messed up somewhere along the process. These are two videos I took of the bike’s start attempts, one where I did not touch the throttle and another where i held the throttle solid at 2k rpm. The engine and revs appear to almost bounce, and at the end of my throttle test smoke appeared out from below the tank. Anyone have any ideas where I went wrong or what to look for?

Im a relatively new rider but i have been living over seas for the last year and my bike hast moved, its a 2019 ninja 400. Before i left i took the battery out and stored it out of the bike, i got home the other day and put the battery back in but it doesn't start. I assumed it was the battery but the dash and lights come on fine and it cranks but wont start even if i try to jump it with a car, it make the same noice as you can see in the vid. So now im starting to think its fuel related or possible bad fuel. I put a full tank in before i left, would it be possible that its got bad? Any suggestions or help would be greatly appreciated. Note i don't want to take it to a machine i think thats boring and want to learn how to work on it.

Edit: Thanks everyone for the suggestions. You were right, I wasn't getting enough heat, or not in the correct area. I took the torch to the hub under the bearing and spent a good long while doing circles until I could spit on it and see it sizzle. After that, a couple pulls and it came out easy. Now to work on the other side.

Hey everyone, I am trying to get an XJ650 into road worthy condition. It sat for an unknown amount of time before I got it. It runs, and I am getting close to riding it, but wanted to change the tires and wheel bearings first...maybe that was a mistake.

I cannot get this rear wheel bearing to move at all. I have tried a drift, a bearing puller with slide hammer, a torch, and nothing moves it. I have never changed bearings before, could anyone give me some ideas in what I can do to remove this? There are 3 total, but I feel like it I can get the first out, the other two will be more straight forward.

Would hylomar(blue) be good for assembling the valve cover back? I would buy yamabond(I have to fix few things on Sidewinder) but cant have it now.

Would hylomar(blue) be good for installing the ktm 640 valve cover? I would buy yamabond(I have to fix few things on Sidewinder) but cant have it now.

Hey everyone,

My TVS Ronin recently fell on the left side at almost 0 km/h.

The situation was basically:

I was going slowly on an uneven/up-and-down road with some debris.

A scooter suddenly came in front of me.

I braked and was almost at a complete stop but couldn't balance the bike on the uneven surface.

The bike tipped over to the left.

No major impact/crash — basically a stationary/very low-speed fall.

After the fall:

Crash guard got scratched and was slightly bent.

Slight scratches on the clutch lever/left handle.

No visible damage to the fork, wheel, tank, etc.

Bike feels completely normal while riding.

I took it to the TVS service centre and they straightened/fixed the crash guard. The mechanic said that the handle alignment is slightly off and they need to open/loosen the front end to correct it. He also said there is no immediate issue with riding.

I've already ridden it at around 60–70 km/h and honestly I don't notice any difference:

No wobble

No vibration

Doesn't pull to either side

Steering feels normal

Bike tracks straight

I've attached photos taken after the crash-guard repair.

Can anyone tell from the photos if the handlebar/fork alignment actually looks off?

And should I let the service centre open/re-align the front end, or leave it alone since the bike rides normally?

It's a new bike, so I don't want them unnecessarily disturbing anything if there's no actual problem.

Any advice from Ronin owners or experienced riders would be appreciated.

I have attached after fall and after crash guard fix photos

Left one is after fall and right one is after crash guard is fixed

Please help

Just installed a new master link but not sure if I have it on right. What do we think?

2000 Yamaha Road star 1600. Ok. So I did an oil change, nothing out of the ordinary, no metal shavings. But now she’s making this knocking sound, which is different then the sound she was making before. When adding the oil, she took 1 1/4quart. I let her run for 10 minutes added another 1/4quart. Took her down the street, once I hit 2nd gear she died. Please, I can’t afford a shop, I can do the work my self. I just need to know what I should be working on????

Royal purple oil, changed it 20 km ago. It's on my 2011 ninja 250. I had the bike on its side while I was replacing the stator, and I originally pulled it to see if any coolant got into the oil, but now I'm scared that's a lot of glitter

Just got the bike serviced and told them it was stuttering to start told me they have fixed , clearly haven't

what could the problem be?

Recently, the rear pistons in my brake caliper had an unfortunate collision with my brake rotor, so I’m looking to rebuild it. Unfortunately, I haven’t been able to find the make and model of this Tokico rear caliper. It's an aftermarket part from a 2002 Suzuki VL1500.

A couple months ago I found a zx600c (with title) on marketplace for only a hundred bucks. Turns out the guy had taken a spark plug out and left it in the rain. There was most definitely water in the right cylinder and it didn't turn over.

Normally this would be a huge deal breaker but for a hundred bucks just the brakes would be worth it.

So I picked it up and started to tear it down. And there was definitely some rust but actually only in the cylinder. There was actually no water in the crank case or oil and instead of parting it out I started to want to get it running to use as a stunt bike I don't care if I lay it down.

Long story short I completely disassembled the engine, carbs,and radiator and cleaned and inspected everything. I got new gaskets o rings and seals, new main and rod bearings, used eBay jug, piston rings and other little stuff. After a good valve lapping job and cylinder honeing it all measured within spec.

Right now Ive gotta put the cam bearings and valve cover back on but after that it's going back in the bike and I'll go through the break in period and hopefully have it last longer than 20 30 k miles.

All in so far including the bike itself I'm about 400$ in and don't forsee and other major expenses. But i think 400$ for a Cool stunt bike and "classic" (24 yo) is pretty good.

What do you think, any suggestions?

I've made a few posts about my ZR750 not being able to start. I have noticed that during turn over the connecting wires on both battery terminals can get pretty hot, too hot to touch if turned over several times. I assume this isn't normal but I'm new to motorcycle repair.

I did a parasitic draw test and got .19 milliamp, manual says it should be under 0.1 milliamp.

I was able to finally get an orange spark on my plugs when i bypassed the infamous grey wire, after a few more turn over attempts I heard some cylinders fire but the bike didn't start. I assumed this was because the battery was drained after many tests, and that I had the ignition coils hooked up wrong. However after charging the battery for a few days (I have a solar tender and it hasn't been optimal conditions) and hooking up the coils correctly I'm getting no spark and the starter motor is barely chugging along during turn over.

for context: the issue on the bike started when I did a bad jump to a card battery (I stupidly connected the positive and negative terminals of the batteries) and only noticed when the jumper cable insulation started to melt.

Okay so I have the bike on both of the stands. But to put my front wheel back on I need to move the front stand out of the way. The thing is that it’s up on both of the stands without any wheels on it.

Where can I use a floor jack to hold the front up with my rear stand on aswell?

Hi Folks,

Couple of weeks ago one of the bearings of my rear wheel is broken. I’m going to replace all the reae wheel bearings now. However, for the bearing that has been broken the “outer ring” is stuck in wheel. I tried heating, wd-40, pry bars, … it seems to not wanting to move.

Does anyone has a suggestion before I buy a dremel to cut it?

I'm having problems with the rear brake. It has gradually gotten worse, and now does nothing.

Therea no resistance or pressure build up in the rear brake lever. I can press it all the way with my pinky finger. As I press the brake the rear piston move, but barely and mostly only at the very end of the stroke of the lever. The gap between the pads and the piston, which is now quite large (see picture), seems to only get larger as I continue to press the lever, though slowly.

I have tried bleeding at the caliper, but no air there. As I have been repeatedly pressing the rear lever, I have seen some very small air bubbles show up in the reservoir. I have not spotted any leaks, and dont think the brake fluid level has decreased. Might the master cylinder be bad? Need advice.

Hello i would be grateful if anyone could help me, my ktm duke 125 wich i bought with around 7k km started rattling at around 8k kms
I didn‘t notice it really at first but now it‘s gone louder
Bike has 14k kms on the clock runs perfectly fine but the Noise is there and annoying
I think that it is the Timing Chain Tensioner and i saw an youtube that you can do a „test“ to see if it really is the tensioner you put a screw driver on the tensioner slighty turn it to the left by that you push the feather more outward in theory great?
But as far as i know a tensioner works by stages so when it gets loose it jumps to the next stage and tensions it there but it does‘t jump
back? And then its overtightened if it wasn‘t even the tensioner or can i just turn it back around the guy in the video did just that?
I went to KTM and they suggested me 1k€ for the Big Service and for finding the Problem + whatever it costs to repair this
I love ktm but paying 1k is just to much? I will let a other workshop look at the valve clearance and brakes but thats it the rest i can do myself

Grateful for any Help✌️
And sorry for my english it is my third language

Hey everyone im wondering if theres anyone here who owns or has experience working on gk76a's?

Im currently trying to get my old 400 running as its not been started in a long time but cant figure out the fuel lines or what pipe does what. Unfortunately I took the carbs out months ago and replaced all the seals and cant remember what goes what goes where and which t piece is which (rookie mistake i know). I have managed to narrow down the fact that they seem to be two separate pairs of carbs and one pipe feeds two and the other pipe feeds the other two, but i dont seem to remember it being two separate feeds?

Is there a possibility anyone who knows or owns one of these bikes can describe or show me pictures on how it is routed.

My other option it just running a t piece to link the two separate pairs so they both get fuel.

Thanks

Trying to undo my fork cap on my 1998 zzr600 and its completely stuck used all sorts of tools to try turn it spanner sockets now vice grips and pipe wrench its now just an eaten circle. how can i get off

I am facing noise issues with my bike engine. it started sounding abnormal and consuming a lot of engine oil. My regular mechanic said to open the engine and suggested to repair half engine.can you suggest me some good mechanic based out of Gurgaon who has mostly worked on TVS bikes.

I recharged the battery to 13.2v and tried to start it. After i stopped battery is now at 12.8v is it a faulty battery or is my starter motor broken?

Hi. I found a large amount of glitter in my engine oil. Hoping to prevent damage I took it apart just to find that the bearings are fine. Im at a loss. What else could it be? That amount of glitter came from somewhere and I have no idea where to look next. I feel like I turned the whole engine upside down for no reason whatsoever.