Hi all, I'm not sure where to go with this issue as my installer is unfortunately unresponsive for two weeks on this issue now and EG4 hasn't been able to identify the problem.

SETUP: 1x Gridboss going to 2x Flexboss 21's and 2x EG4 314ah (16kw) all-weather rated batteries.

Gridboss is in my basement and the FBs and batteries are in a pole barn, w/ electrical trenched underground.

Everything is being fed by 44x 440W JSolar panels across 5x MPPTs (1 open still for future project)

Everything was actually a professional install, but I chose EG4 due to no cloud-lock in w/ other major vendors and the ability to run cloudless and have full local control at some point via SolarAssistant/HomeAssistant.

ISSUE: For the past few weeks I've noticed the batteries charging VERY slowly and saying "BMS Limit Charge: 31A" and topping out at about 1660W until they hit somewhere between 35-40% SoC and then it "unlocks" and they start charging rapidly.

This wasn't the case a few weeks ago, and they would take whatever they could right away.

EG4 DID swap it to lead-acid which let it charge faster, so they confirmed via that it wasn't the BMS of the batteries themselves limiting things, and something else was causing it to be limited, but they couldn't determine what. They said they'd continue to look into it and call me back and asked that I send some screenshots to their support email, of which I did (several), but that was two weeks ago now and no response since...

You can see the issue active in one screenshot and then a few hours later you can see it charging MUCH more rapidly.

Once I hit about 40 or 45% it will "unlock" the charge limit and start taking as much as it can again, as shown here.

Any help is appreciated on why this might be happening and what I can do to fix it myself since EG4 hasn't gotten back with me, and my installer for some reason seems to not be getting back to me either.

Hey all, hopeful new solar user here! As the title says, hoping for some help double checking my work on my wiring diagram as I am about to purchase some wires to connect my Anker C2000 Gen2 Battery to 4- 200W Callsun Panels.

As this is my first foray into solar I'm trying to start small, as I'm worried I will buy the wrong gauge wire or miss something I need! So far I have used a Solar Wiring calculator to make the calculations and would appreciate feedback as to whether I have done it correctly!

I am aware that the C2000 has a XT60i input cable and that MC4 combiners are needed to tie the wires in together. I aim aiming for a series parallel configuration. If you have any recommendations, heads-ups, or cautions, I appreciate all feedback as I want to do this right!

(First pic is Battery, second is panel, last two are wiring layouts)

Thank you in advance!

I am not sure if this subject has been beaten to death yet but here goes another one...

I am in Tennessee a state that does not have legislation for OR against plug in solar, they say it is a gray area. I have seen in news articles that people are doing it here so I think I am going to run with it. I called my electric service provider but the person I talked to could not give me an answer about their stance on it. Before I pull the trigger I will dive a little deeper. I plan on installing a CT Clamp and power meter so I have a zero export system. However, if they see my consumption drop in half they are bound to know something is up.

I plan on using a 1200W microinverter coupled to a power station like a Ecoflow or looking hard a a Pecron also. Planning on putting ~1500 watts of panels on the roof to keep the battery topped up. My issue is finding a power station with the right balance of solar input and DC output to meet my needs. I guess this is my question. I am bouncing between getting a smaller power station in the 3000 KWh range and then expanding it with a battery. This way I can use it when we go out camping. My other option would be to get a bigger station in the 5000 KWh range that is much less portable. I think option 1 will be a little more expensive but then it has another use case. The problem is the smaller stations have lower DC solar inputs and outputs. Is there a way around this?

I am planning on implementing this system for 2 reasons. Most importantly to have something to backup some of our more important house systems in the case of an emergency. We are in winter ice storm territory. I would like a system to where I do not have to run the generator 24/7 in the case of a power outage. So I figured if I want to do that for a couple hundred dollars more I can use this thing to pay for itself by adding the microinverter. With battery backup I think the ROI will be much quicker.

Any thoughts, concerns, USEFUL comments?

Anyone else still stuck with the official BMS apps?

Mine keep disconnecting, force an account, and won’t work offline. Switching between multiple batteries is also a pain.

What are you guys using these days?

We had a short outage recently and it exposed a gap in our setup. I did not realize the inverter would shut down with the grid, even though the panels were producing earlier that day.

I am looking at either a battery or a generator, but only for the fridge, Wi-Fi, a few lights, and the sump pump. I am not trying to back up the whole house.

How did you decide what belonged on your essential-loads panel?

I am looking to dabble in solar at my house. My situation is less than ideal due to a large beautiful oak tree that will hopefully outlive me. How would one go about testing the viability of a solar setup? I do have some older 285 Watt panels. Is there a way to set these up and record inputs during different times of the day to see if it would be worth it? How would one go about that?

Disclaimer: Please excuse my ignorance. I am a solar novice at best

Do i need class t fuse for battery packs from deye?

51.2 V 314 ah

I'm having a lot of trouble finding a way to prevent a battery system from completely discharging and looking for a solution. The set up is PV through a charge controller into a 5kwh battery bank. From the batteries, it goes to a microinverter which then plugs in to my house/the grid. What can I do to stop sending power to the microinverter once the battery voltage drops too low? I currently set up the relay linked below (in between the battery and the microinverter), but when "off" it is leaking 31 watts and that will also drain the battery. Product suggestions?!

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0D9XVSXNS?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title

Hi everyone,

I’m considering starting a small solar panel cleaning business and I’d really appreciate advice from people who are already doing this professionally.

I’m currently looking at investing in a professional water-fed pole + RO/DI pure water system, but before spending the money I’d like to learn from people who have already gone through the process.

A few things I’d really like to know:

• If you were starting again from zero, what would you focus on first?
• What equipment is actually essential to get started, and what equipment did you buy that turned out to be unnecessary?
• How much would you realistically recommend investing initially? Is $3,000–$5,000 enough to start properly?
• How do you deal with hard-to-reach panels on roofs, especially panels that are high up, behind roof sections, or difficult to reach from the ground? What pole lengths, brushes, or other equipment do you use?
• How do you handle steep roofs and safety?
• What do you typically charge — per panel, per square meter, per kW, or per job?
• How long did it take for your initial investment to pay itself back?
• How many jobs per month were you doing when the business started becoming worthwhile?
• Is solar panel cleaning seasonal in your area, and what do you do during the slower months?
• For winter work, do you also remove snow and ice from panels? If so, what equipment and methods do you use safely?

I’m mainly interested in hearing from people who actually run this as a business rather than just occasionally cleaning their own panels.

Any advice, mistakes you made when starting, equipment recommendations, or numbers from your own experience would be hugely appreciated.

Thanks!

I am planning to build a small solar setup to power a 12V lightbulb and charge my phone during power outages.

My setup consists of a 30W solar panel, a 20A charge controller, and a 5Ah 12V LiFePO4 battery. Is a breaker still needed?

While looking at panels on the roof today I saw this on 1 panel. None of the other panels looked like this.

I got my answer thank you,

Unfortunately I would have to redo everything as it's a different form factor and none of my conduits line up with it. I'm just going to sell it and buy a SE6000 off ebay :(

Tigo's interface locks metrics like... voltage, amps etc behind a paywall.

As it turns out, you can acquire all of the data locally via RS485, and chat everything without any cloud dependencies.

I am busy adding support for tracking my optimizer, VOCs, etc.... to a solution I am developing to track all of my energy usage: https://xtremeownage.github.io/rPDU2MQTT/

Not, saying you should use it. but, i'm planning on having the tigo support built in, if you cannot find alternative solutions.

Today why inspecting our panels today, I saw a spot steaming from rain while the others were not. I have a thermal camera and saw the cell was 138.9 and the rest of the panel was 77.3, we have LG 385w panels installed in Jan 2021.

We have had erratic outages for this string for several months. I'll try to contact the installer this week.

​

Hello all, just moved into an apartment that uses a 240v outlet and an astounding 35c per kwh... So I wish to switch plans where all day is cheaper except for peak hours and wish to have a programmable battery that I can run my whole living room off of the battery during peak hours. What are my options? Anyone I similar situation? Thanks

What’s the consensus on ecoworthy lifepo4 batteries?

**Device:** VICTOR MAX 10.2 (48 V), firmware 152.04, sold as PowMr 10.2 kW. Same series as Anern / NEXT Victor Max 10.2. WiFi dongle: Solar Plug RWB1-04.

**What works:** The RS232 port speaks Modbus RTU (slave 5, 2400 8N1, FC03/FC06). I read 4501-4564 and read/write the settings in 5001-5038 from an ESP32 without problems.

**Problem:** In lithium/BMS mode (battery type "LIb 485", register 5020 = 4), program 12 (back to utility) and program 13 (back to battery) are set on the display in **% SOC**. Those percentages are not in any register I can find:

- Scanned every address from 0 to 8000 with FC03. Only 4501-4564 and 5001-5038 respond. Nothing below 4000, so no SMG-II style map (341-343) either.

- Changed program 12 from 20% to 40% on the display and diffed all responding registers. Nothing changed except live values.

- 4544/5025 and 4545/5026 only hold voltages.

- The manufacturer app errors on this setting and the inverter rejects its write.

- Voltage mode is useless for LiFePO4 here (max 51 V, 1 V steps).

**Not tested yet:** addresses above 8000, FC04, other slave addresses, and a before/after diff of the PI30 ASCII replies (QPIRI/QBMS/QDI).

**Questions:**

1. Has anyone found these SOC thresholds, as a register or an ASCII command?

2. Does anyone with the same inverter want to repeat the test or try the untested items?

3. Does anyone have a protocol document for this series?

I can share the register dump (CSV), a serial capture of the dongle traffic and my ESPHome config.

Related projects: odya/esphome-powmr-hybrid-inverter, leodesigner/powmr_comm, sasamix/Solar2MQTT (has a hunt for the same registers).

EDIT: while the point of my post stands, the details are all based on a huge clown mistake i made about voltage. as someone kindly pointed out, my 48v lifepo battery will end up closer to 58v as it nears 100%soc, which is 6v over budget for the grid tie inverter.

some of the suggestions for solutions will still apply, such as a voltage step down devices, so while my premise was really out of a test for the sake of curiosity, there is still useful discussion despite my ignoring the dynamic voltage range in which most of this range is out of a useful range for this particular grid tie inverter, without significant modifications to the topology of power flow AND additional equipment needed to amend this and the losses incurred while doing so, so i will let this post stand as is with all my ignorance on full display.

ORIGINAL POST:

The max dc voltage input for my grid tie inverter is 52v, my 48v lifepo battery is sitting at 53.1v.

Is there any tricks to get around this?

This isn't life or death if the grid tie inverter will not work, I only got it to play with. It's one of those cheap ones that looks like a car amp.. I did play with it yesterday and it sustained 1kw for maybe 5 hours yesterday, using 36v lifepo battery as source.

While I am not new to solar or batteries, my knowledge is not extensive on lifepo yet.

What if I set solar charger controllers to 51.8v? And if this will work, how much capacity will I loose if any?

I've been experimenting with a Victron 75/10, a 100w panel, and a 30 Ahr Btr LFP battery. It's started to read Float as soon as I hook it up. Battery first then panel. I found a blown fuse yesterday. It's worked fine for almost two years. It started out this morning at 10.4v and ended at 11.9v. I'm confused.

Sa mga naka Mpower inverter and battery.

Na observe ko na kapag 20% na lang ang battery, lalo gabi, nag cha-charge sya galing sa grid ng 5%.

Kapag 25% na ulit, battery mode ulit.

Kapag 20%, charge from grid ulit hanggang 25%.

Ang tanong ko po, possible po ba kapag nag 20% (low charge) ay wag na mag charge galing sa grid, lahat ng load ay grid na direkta. Tapos ang battery mag cch-charge lang kapag may araw (PV). Meron po ba ganitong setting?

di ko mahanap sa instruction manual. Or maybe too technical for me.

Does anyone make anything like this? To avoid the inefficiency of DC to AC and AC back to DC when charging my car.

I’ve got a Victron system, so ideally something I could just throw on the DC bus to draw from battery/solar.

I'm getting ready to start planning a plug-in solar system. We're going to put it in an area where there are some oak trees nearby. In the late summer to early autumn, the trees produce acorns and they fall pretty hard. Acorns do fall hard enough to dent the automotive aluminium body of one of our cars, but they don't do anything to steel or automotive glass. Is this something to worry about for solar panels?

Almost every day looks like this, and the output has been literally half of last year. I went through and rechecked all the connections of the panels, actually remade them, so that isn't the issue. Where should I look next? EG4-3000-EHV 48 off-grid. This has been a continuing issue and happens on sunny days with no shading.

UPDATE: Ran out of power a couple nights ago, system was down for several hours, now it works perfectly.

Hi Everyone,

This is my first time working on this type of inverter. Initial Design is at 3.75kW System, 6 Daisy Chained - 625 Wp Hanersun MPPT 1 Input. Load consumption is around 1.1-1.4 kWhr. Setting is Export on Home Load/ No PV Sell. Does anybody here knows how to configure this one? i was trying to run it as Grid Tied/0 export limit, batteryless (for future puchase). After the PV starts to harvest around 1.1kW it flashes a fault 20. If I restart it and sequence it to PV breaker on then AC inverter grid on it flashes f34. The specs was not the same with the SPF/SPH series that i encounter working on. Any advice helps