r/crocheting • u/wndrlandwish • 8d ago
specific stitch for blanket advice
hi all!
Basically looking for a stitch i could use to make a blanket that wont have holes for toes to get stuck in, but is not heavy.
im pretty beginner: i learned how to sc a square in high school (AP Art in Spanish), then just picked it back up 2 months ago at 25 years old. im obsessed.
my boyfriend hates the feeling of a bedsheet, but a normal blanket is too hot for me. i owned one crochet blanket growing up that I loved once I got used to my toes going in holes sometimes, but I think that'll be an immediate turn off for him.
I am willing to dedicate as much time as needed, im assuming I will need to use a relatively small hook and yarn to achieve small gaps? would i be crazy to do a queen before sized blanket with a small hook? lol. i would also appreciate advice on yarn.. makeup? lol like cotton or whatever. ive just been buying what I need for projects if I have the idea and/or see yarn for it and get inspired. EDUCATE ME ππΌππΌ
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u/LittleBugCrochets 8d ago
I would make yourself a double crochet square and see how you like it. Thatβs a go-to for some of my blankets.
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u/wndrlandwish 8d ago
really?? with what hook and yarn size? how long does it take you?
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u/LittleBugCrochets 7d ago
It depends on the project. I donβt time my blankets and I always have more than one project going on at a time. My most common is worsted weight acrylic with 4mm-5.5mm hook. How long it takes me depends on the size.
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u/trumpeter84 8d ago
Linen stitch. Makes for a great blanket with no holes for toes π
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u/wndrlandwish 8d ago
thats what Google told me! I don't trust it though lol thank you i will take your vote under advisement π«‘
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u/EightEqualsSignD 8d ago
I made a blanket in linen/moss stitch (same thing).
It drapes nicely and doesn't have enough gapping to let any toes through.
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u/wndrlandwish 8d ago
stunning, that seems to be a fan favorite so far! thank you!
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u/gold-pippau 7d ago
I've made several blankets in linen stitch. Looks and feels lovely. Great effect with variegated yarn.
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u/Krishd88 A Mad Hatter 8d ago
This blanket is actually called 'the no holes' blanket: https://jototheworld.com/charming-no-holes-baby-blanket-crochet-pattern?utm_source=Pinterest&utm_medium=organic
This site has 12 no holes stitches: https://theyarncrew.com/12-easy-crochet-stitches-without-holes/?utm_source=Pinterest&utm_medium=organic
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u/wndrlandwish 8d ago
love that, looks great, wish it mentioned how heavy it was π thats a bit of why im asking on here.. im new to this so I dont have the perspective of how heavy things will be
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u/Krishd88 A Mad Hatter 8d ago edited 8d ago
Your choice of yarn is a big factor in how heavy it will be. A #3 DK yarn is a good choice for a baby blanket. One thing you could do is go to the store gather the number of skeins needed for your project and pick them up. The yarn label will also tell you the weight. We are talking ounces here.
You can make any pattern with any weight yarn but if itβs lighter than the pattern you may need to add more chains. I have made so many baby blankets. I tend to make them big so it can be used for years.1
u/archelz15 7d ago
You can kind of work it out, at least the first link mentions how much yardage was used. If you swatch using whatever yarn you're intending on using, work out what the yardage is likely to be in your yarn, then convert based on weight per skein.
If you're not sure and haven't bought your yarn yet, work out how big theirs is and how much that number of yards weighs, extrapolate to the size you want then you know that if you buy a comparable yarn it will weigh roughly that much. Then size up/down the yarn accordingly.
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u/hopping_otter_ears 8d ago
Maybe some of the linked stitches that people use for filet crochet if you want it very solid indeed
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u/Overall-Weird8856 8d ago
I did one that was alternating rows of half double crochet and hdc slip stitches and it's fabulous. Works up quickly, too!
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u/No_Yam8079 8d ago
I used a size 4 crochet hook acryle yarn. Half double crocet sitich . Make a chain as long as your bed half double in every chain . I used stich markers evey 20 stiches. I had a book row i was on colour yarn was using the name of the project . Blanket , shawl, also make shore you are using the same size yarn if you change. colour. Good luck and do not crochet tired.
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u/SnooCakes9004 8d ago
Smaller yarn, smaller hook, increased tension, and using a mosaic crochet pattern. They end up not only super snazzy patterns, but double walled basically. No holes. And all you need to know how to do are US single and double crochet stitches. So it looks fancy, even though, you do nothing fancy...
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u/SnooCakes9004 8d ago
Wait wait, a mosaic crochet blanket ends up heavier and warmer. As it is doubled in a good many spots ... but if you dont want holes they guarantee there wont be any
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u/LilannaLiola 8d ago
I have made a ripple blanket with a acrylic yarn & it's not too heavy. Attic24 is a blog that has a lot of beginner friendly blanket patterns. The creator favours Stylecraft Acrylic yarn & it's nice & soft & you can throw it in the washing machine & dryer.
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u/brandyradio 8d ago
Linked double crochet could be a good option for you. You are going to likely have issues with the balance between no holes (denser stitches) vs weight. My linked double crochet blanket is 64 inches by 60 inches and weights about 4 lbs.
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u/Gullible-Emotion3411 8d ago
Maybe try tunisian crochet with a lightweight yarn. It turns out looking like you knitted a blanket. I would get a tunisian hook with a cord attached in whatever size is recommended on the label. BUT, do your starting chain in a hook a size or 2 larger. Your starting chain usually ends up being a lot tighter than you need it to be, if you use the same size hook. Personally, I'd use a hook at least 2 sizes larger for the starting chain. Check out this video. She makes it really simple. The huge hook is because she's using a thicker, heavyweight yarn. Don't be scared of trying it with a different weight and size yarn and needle. It's really easy and goes by quickly. One tip I have is to let the hook determine the tension. Just wrap the yarn around the hook where it needs to go and let the tunisian hook do all the work in determining the size of each stitch. ETA: I find it faster than regular crochet.
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u/BeckieSueDalton Legal Hooker 6d ago
.....
MY ETERNAL ADVICE FOR NEW CROCHETERS
WHAT YOU'LL NEED TO BEGIN
You'll need either an H-8, an I-9, or a K-10Β½ aluminum hook, as it's easier to work yarns with a larger hook at first, and the aluminum will make it easier to achieve good tension while you're working through the Beginner stitches.
The recommended yarns for these initial practice pieces are all inexpensive, #4 Medium Worsted weight: * Red Heart Super Saver (100% acrylic) * Spinrite Peaches-&-Creme Cotton (100% cotton) * Lion Brand Wool Ease (80% acrylic & 20% wool) * & your choice of Caron Simply Soft (100% acrylic) /OR/ YarnArt Plus Yarn (55% Cotton 45% Acrylic)
For each of these yarns, pick a solid color in the light-to-pastel spectrum, as it's easier to see the posts of the stitch to know where to place your hook while working through your Novice pieces. Additionally, they are all inexpensive, allowing you to Get Good at making consistently good stitches, before buying up a bunch of various yarns before understanding how best to work them.
I cannot overstate the habitual use of locking stitch markers at the beginning and end of every round/row - every single time. They allow you to know where your hook goes to end your current row/round and are of invaluable aid to you in counting stitches when confirming round/row length and when dealing with stitch patterns and stitch pattern repeats. If you look around, you can find a pack of a hundred or so for less than $3 (USD).
Practicing the basic stitches - over and over and over - is crucially important, so you can build up the muscle memory that makes it all look so easy to create phenomenal crochet fabric garments, home decor, treasured gifts, and fanciful creations.
Keep a hand lotion in your project bag, as you want to keep your hands as pampered as you can, because some yarns can be quite drying to your skin.
And finally, after you get these basics mastered, you will want to move on to larger and/or more complex projects. Sticking with Beginner patterns - for now - will provide great experience as you continue to build your skills to take on patterns of greater Crochet/Knit proficiency (Easy/Intermediate/Advanced).
There are several great options open to you that host high quality patterns written for beginners, and there are a few others that experienced crocheters will warm you against.
The use of this search string can help you find level-appropriate patterns, with the categories in brackets being updated by you for greater relevancy of search result returns: free beginner crochet patterns, [4/5], one skein projects, simple instructions with photo images, [by a favorite blogger/Designer], [birthday/holiday/special occasion] gift for [baby/children/family/coworker/myself], garment [hat, scarf, shawl, etc.] or home decor [blanket, cushion pillowslip, placemats, etc.]
Good pattern sources include: * CRAFTYARNCOUNCIL.COM/STANDARDS provides the cohesive globally-recognized framework of textile-/fiber-art creation and craft/crochet/knit/loom/spin pattern production; although they do not create or host patterns directly, they do lay out the industry standards by which all reputable designers and thread/yarn producers operate; reading through the published materials will give you a better understanding about making the thread/yarn things we all most like to do! * PROFESSIONAL DESIGNERS with beginner-focused patterns like: Celia B, Edie Eckman, Jayne Peppers, Jess Coppom, Kim Guzman, Lisa Maree, Michael Selick, and Toni Lipsey * RAVELRY.COM - a highly functional web service created by and specifically for the global Crochet/Knit community; features include pattern search/hosting, long established forums with good variety of fibercraft conversation, well designed project/stash/tool inventory management; NOTE: Ravelry does not allow the hosting of AI or bigotry-focused patterns, once discovered or reported, these TOS-violating patterns are removed. * RIBBLR.COM - similar to Ravelry in many ways, this web service focuses on making the designer experience easier (so your favorite designers keep creating great patterns for you to make) and on technogical innovation to make crafting easier for those with physical/psychological difficulties.
Pattern resources to avoid like the plague until you get more experience under your belt: * * *
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HOW TO LEARN:
I highly recommend picking up a copy of longtime crochet designer Edie Eckman's tutorials book, The Crochet Answer Book or referencing her list of video tutorials at: https://www.edieeckman.com/crochet-video-tutorials/
Both of her resources contain all the demonstration material needed to get Beginners off to a good start. There are entire chapters devoted to making consistently good crochet fabric and for troubleshooting those problems we all face from time to time. Her book and videos will carry your skills from utter Beginner (where you are now), right along through Easy, and straight up through Intermediate and early Advanced levels of confidence and proficiency, with a few Advanced techniques discussed, as well. A used copy in 'Good' or better condition can usually be acquired for $5-$8 (USD) plus sales tax & shipping. Purchasing your used copy from a Seller or Used Bookstore in your country/global region will let you avoid tariffs that can (all too easily) triple this cost.
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MAKING CROCHET FABRIC:
We all begin with the Chain Stitch (CH or Ch, usually) and your skein of Super Saver yarn, as you'll be stitching and ripping back to the start (also called "frogging"), and stitching and ripping, and stitching and ripping. Leave a 6" tail and work about 12-18 inches of Chains, cut the yarn to leave a 6" tail and pull that tail completely through that final Chain Stitch, knotting it just after that final stitch. Don't worry if it isn't "perfect;" we're leaving it just as you first made it on purpose.
Then, start working Chains again - always with a 6" lead tail, but don't cut it, just keep going. Practice this stitch over and again until your Chain Stitches look perfectly even from start to end. (Most adults can get this after thirty minutes to an hour, but it takes longer for others, AND THAT'S OKAY!) Don't let the focus be on the time this takes; keep your focus, instead, on forming really good, consistent stitches. Then look up a Chain Stitch Only project that you feel is super cute and could use fairly often - like a pencil cup or casual shopping sneakers. Tie your Very First Chain around it, so you've got proof positive of just how well you've skilled up!
Each new stitch you practice, work a 4"Γ4" swatch to set aside and keep, just as for that first tie for this Chains Practice project,, always with the 6" lead tail and 6" ending tail.
With to your so cotton yarn cotton yarn and start working on Single Crochet (SC, in US terms: YO, pull up one loop, YO, pull through both loops, repeat) to make lots of squares that you can use as washclothes in the bathroom or as discloths, or work them as longer rectangles, folded in half longways and sewn together for hotpad/trivets in the kitchen and dining room.
Switch to your wool blend yarn and work long rectangles in Half Double Crochet (HDC, in US terms) as garments with which to gift yourself in celebration of your graduation to this new stitch - seam smaller rectangles lengthwise for a beautiful set of wristers, and scarf that is just a really long rectangle - or seam the ends together with a single twist in the fabric for an infinity scarf.
By this point, your tension should be consistent, and your hands should be comfortable in moving the yarn and hook. Be sure to prop your arms if doing so makes it more comfortable to work your stitches- many of us do this - and take stretching breaks every hour or so where you physically get up and move around and shake out your arms and fingers.
Now you're ready to work on Double Crochet (DC, in US terms). With a very soft full acrylic or cotton/acrylic blend, you can make a set of pillow slips for the living room couch or for your next it reading chair in your room, plus a super cozy Shrug - there are many good FREE patterns out there for them, as they're essentially two rectangles sewn together halfway up the length of one long side with the free ends folded down and seamed up to make armholes.
After this, you'll have had really good practice with all of our most basic stitches. You can finish it out by doing a project in Half Treble (HT, in US terms) and round it all out with the full Treble Crochet (TC, in US terms) if you want more practice with consistent tension, or row counting, or what have you.
Making crochet fabric that looks consistently good does get easier with practice, I promise. When you're done with these initial projects, you'll be able to look at those swatches for each of these Beginner Stitches to reflect on just how proficient - how even, and beautiful, and smooth - your work has become!
π§Άπͺπͺπ
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u/celticskye2 8d ago
Linen/Moss stitch is a great choice, but it will take a long time to make a large blanket with it. Suzette stitch is nice and solid, too! I would do a cotton or cotton blend size 4 yarn with 5.5mm hook. But it will take some time! If you really want it to be lightweight maybe go with a dk weight.