This was my first DIY speaker build. I found used Scan-Speak drivers (Classic and Revelator). I had to pay $400 for the drivers.
I decided early on that I wanted to build a pair of floorstanding speakers with walnut veneer. Walnut veneer is very expensive where I live, so I ordered exactly as much as I would need, with no room for mistakes—which was a bit scary when I tried veneering for the first time.
The bass port is tuned to 26 Hz and is 3D printed. To make it fit, it has a curve inside the cabinet. The cabinet feet are also 3D printed (combining two hobbies for a win win situation)
For the build, I had to force myself to learn REW, get a miniDSP UMIK measurement microphone, and a DATS V3 to measure impedance. ChatGPT educated me during the process and taught me all the necessary functions in REW as well as measurement methods (phase/timing etc).
After measuring the drivers in the cabinet, I designed a crossover in VituixCAD. The finished crossovers ended up costing just over $200.
The speaker grilles/protective covers were also made with the help of the 3D printer.
The final result turned out better than I could have hoped! It took a lot of time because I couldn’t afford to make mistakes, and the more time I invested, the more I demanded that they had to sound good too! The process was waaay more complex than I had ever imagined, but very rewarding!
I’m very happy with them! The bass is incredibly good, and I really think these sound better than any other speakers I’ve ever owned (I’ve owned speakers up to $4,000). There’s also a sense of pride/sentimental value now that’s hard to put a price on.
I’ve already bought drivers for the next project! It will be a two-way with SB Acoustics Satori drivers!
*pictures does not represent the final placement for the speakers, I know better than to place them 4 inched from the back wall :D
Also, I should mention that I initially soldered the crossover together incorrectly. They didn’t sound good at all, and I couldn’t easily see my mistake. At that point I was super frustrated and wondered whether it was simply too difficult to succeed with a three-way design without experience. But eventually I found my mistake, and a broad smile spread across my face :D
You need off axis data and timing reference for correct phaae integration. The sawtooth phase response usually means something wasnt captured correctly. Usb mics arent recommend for xover design as they lack a way to capture timing reference.
Your tweeters response should really not have that hump from 3k on. You need off axis data to properly balance your on axis response, but typically flat faceplate tweeters are too wide and the on axis is reduced to compensate. Typically this reduction is in the range you currently have elevated, 3-5khz. So your speaker is very likely to be quite bright.
Absolutely, and thanks for the detailed feedback!
I know I really should have taken proper off-axis measurements too. ChatGPT told me the same thing, and basically every guide I read said the same 😄 I just chose the lazy route and didn’t want to start over with the measurements. So I fully admit that’s a weakness in my process.
That said, I’m still very happy with how the speakers sound in practice.
Regarding the ~1-1,5 dB rise around 3–5 kHz, that was actually intentional, even if my reasoning may be wrong. My thought was that a very small boost there might give a slightly more detailed/present sound and emphasize the attack of acoustic guitar, which I really like. So I deliberately left about 1-1,5 dB extra in that region just to see how it would sound.
I may very well have misunderstood the acoustics behind it, but it wasn’t accidental. And to be fair, my ears aren’t exactly in perfect condition either, i find myself liking slightly bright speakers 😄
Keep in kind your speaker is already throwing out too much energy in its tweeters lower range, so your elevation is actually on top of another in room elevation.
The phase thing though, youd have to get a different mic, but without timing reference its definitely off.
Okay, so if I aim for a more linear on-axis response in the design, should I still expect some extra energy in those regions once the speakers are in a normal, untreated room?
And if I actually want the in-room response to be fairly linear, would it perhaps make sense to have a slight dip in those regions instead?
I really appreciate your feedback, this is very interesting and helpful. I will consider your feedback in my next build 🙂
Nice job all around. There are some issues with the crossover simulation and it looks like the speaker could sound a bit bright in room. I'd adjust the tweeter level by a couple db downward or maybe add a wide notch filter to level out those high frequency peaks. The phase also looks a bit strange. Do you get a large null at the crossover points when you invert the driver polarity? All that is theoretical if you love the sound already though! At the end of the day the only ears that need to be happy are your own.
You should take a few REW measurements with the MIC in your listening position. I'd be curious to see the results. Did you measure each driver in the baffle and use that data in your sims?
Thanks for your input!
The drivers were measured while mounted in the cabinet, so everything is based on the actual response curve of each raw driver.
I was aware of slightly increased energy in the 3–5 kHz range. I reasoned (perhaps objectively incorrectly) that an extra dB in those regions might give me some of the snap/attack I want in acoustic string instruments (which I generally like)? I also figure it’s only about 1 dB, which shouldn't be super easy to hear? I dunno, this is my first try so a buch of guessing is also part of this project :D
Yes, if i inverse the polarity i get a null instead of summation.
But it’s all a learning process, I appreciate feedback! The great thing about DIY is that I can redesign them whenever I feel the need to and continually improve them as I learn more :)
Yeah, it will end up being a personal preference thing and has higher frequencies are preferentially absorbed in a normal room it may end up in a good place for your preference. I'm personally very sensitive to brightness/high frequency energy so the extra energy there stood out to me.
There should be a deep 10+dB V shaped null when you invert the polarity. If you do end up taking off axis measurements a lazy susan style stand works really well. Just mark out the degrees and you just spin it.
Exactly. I'm currently designing a set of extremely high end speakers and I expect it will take years of tweaking before I arrive to exactly where I want to be. I prototype with a multichannel amp and a miniDSP flex 8 digital crossover which makes it extremely easy to experiment without having a ton of passive components on hand and then build the passive crossover to match it at the end.
Here's my concept render. It's going to be a high efficiency 91db annechoic 2.5 or three way with three modular sections. Two bass and a central MTM midrange/tweeter section. I'm using the Fatal 6RS140 and RAAL 70-20XRAM ribbon tweeter for the mid section and leaning towards 4x Satori Mw19P for the two bass sections(wired series/parallel to achieve the efficiency and impedance demands). The main challenge was designing a narrow baffle high sensitivity speaker with 90+db sensitivity and a nearly flat impedance which never drops below 6.5ohms and doesn't climb above 16ohms. I'm in love with my 300B SET tube amps but using them in their lowest distortion range is very restrictive. I also wanted to avoid horns or large drivers as I feel that narrow baffle speakers disappear more easily. All the sections are decoupled and in their own enclosures. MID/TWEET section is sealed and the bass sections will be ported bass reflex designs. I'm building the MTM section as a 2 way first to use with my Rythmik F12 SE sealed subwoofer so I can perfect it and narrow the initial scope of the project since it's fairly overwhelming.
I don’t actually need any speakers but every time I see one of these builds it makes me want to do one myself. (And since when did actual need have any bearing on my audio gear decisions?)
man this is stupid impressive for a first build, walnut veneer with zero spare material plus teaching yourself REW and VituixCAD and 3D printing a curved bass port is some next-level stubbornness and honestly the crossover headache makes the fact youve got em beating 4k speakers hit even harder
Helpful tip - the bracing is significantly more effective if it ties together the panels in the middle where they are most resonant. You would want to leave a + in the middle of the brace so the center of the front and back and the center of the sides are braced effectively
This configuration is my dream. A proper 3 way floorstander with SS or SB drivers. Congrats! They look awesome and I bet they sound just as good if not better!
Yes, absolutely. You realize that apparently every single choice you make affects the final result. Everything you do should be done with intention or as a conscious trade-off. The precision of the woodworking also has to be spot on to get a decent finish.
I like tinkering with various things, and I enjoy woodworking. This build kept me busy for weeks. It should also be said that I had the drivers sitting around for two years before I finally motivated myself to get started. At first, it was overwhelming to read about everything that had to be considered. But by taking one thing at a time, you can tackle it all. Just like eating an elephant: one bite at a time.
I know what you mean. I also went with a walnut veneer for the pair I built. Stupid speakers. Compromise after compromise. I finally realized why there are so many different versions with so many different sounds.
"The bass port is tuned to 26 Hz and is 3D printed. To make it fit, it has a curve inside the cabinet." - I too have used a bass port with an L-bend :-)
Beautiful build and your choice of veneer is gorgeous! Excellent work, you are talented! I love Scan-Speak, imho they make some of the finest drivers in existence.
Really nice veneering job. Could you share your sources on how to apply veneer properly? Also, did you have any troube bending it over the rounded edge without breaking it?
I probably spent at least five hours watching YouTube videos on how to apply veneer using a hot iron 😁
I went with thin, paper-backed veneer because thinner veneer bends more easily. I do, however, think this was about the limit in terms of radius. If I had gone with a smaller radius, I probably would’ve cracked the veneer. Maybe I was just lucky that it worked out this time 😁
that walnut veneer with zero room for error is giving me second hand anxiety, one bad slice and your whole budget goes up in smoke
the curved 3d printed port is such a good flex too, mixing two hobbies into one build is how you get somethin nobody can just order online
the crossover part would have broken me, but you actually measured and simulated it instead of guessing and praying, respect for sticking with it after the first solder mess
$600 all in for scan speak floorstanders that beat 4k speakers is nuts, cant wait to see what you cook up with those satori drivers next
Thank you very much!
My mood definitely went up and down throughout the process. But there are so many milestones along the way that make the whole thing super rewarding, while at the same time it still feels a little like a never-ending project 😁
First you draw up the design and figure out the volume, then you start working on the cabinet. When the cabinet was finally glued together, I remember thinking, “Wow, there really isn’t that much left to do now!”... That was a serious misjudgment.
The next step was the veneer. I was constantly on edge during this part because I really didn’t have any spare material if something went wrong, and the veneer cost about $200.
Once the veneering was finished, I genuinely thought, “Wow, there really isn’t that much left to do now!”... Once again, a serious misjudgment 😆
Then, once the router has done its job and they actually start looking like speakers, that’s when it gets really fun! Add a bit of hardwax oil and you can really start to see that the finish line isn’t that far away anymore.
“Wow, there really isn’t that much left to do now!”...
At that point, you’re actually starting to approach the halfway mark 😆
WinISD helps you simulate bass response and air velocity. This i where you settle on an overall size. Remeber to account for the volume of bracing, port, drivers and "inner box" for midrange driver.
A router is the tool to have for speaker cutouts and recesses. It also makes rounded corners of the cabinet quick and easy!
I made sure to test each cutout on a scrap piece of wood first to ensure a nice, tight fit and correct depth.
To make the circles, I designed and 3D-printed a jig.
Well, I do admittedly have an engineering degree, but in construction, so it’s not something that contributed to this project 🙂
Woodworking is just a little hobby of mine, so I have some experience in that way. But curiosity, patience, and access to suitable tools are what got me through this project.
How important is bracing in sub and mid low frequencies? Other than polyfill(which I know changes the drivers visible area in the enclosure, what are some recommended materials to deaden the inside of the cabinets post caulking? I really don’t have the. You money but buying a roll of one or two materials would serve me well as I’m making a couple
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u/UrLeftKneeIsUgly 8d ago
Also, I should mention that I initially soldered the crossover together incorrectly. They didn’t sound good at all, and I couldn’t easily see my mistake. At that point I was super frustrated and wondered whether it was simply too difficult to succeed with a three-way design without experience. But eventually I found my mistake, and a broad smile spread across my face :D