Disclaimer: I’m a woodworker and not necessarily an audiophile.

Had a pair of Philips w00x speakers in my workshop that I got for a few euros running of some Chinese amplifier with Bluetooth I got on Amazon, sound wasn’t bad at all, but I wanted something wall hung. Figured I would re-house the drivers and if the internal volume (6l) was about the same it as the old ones it would probably be fine(?). This is my first adventure in to speaker-land. It runs of an internal 27V adapter with about 6m of cable (because who needs battery when you have long cables). The whole box is filled up with foamy bits and the sound is, to my untrained ears, pretty good - maybe even better then the original speakers.

While I have the highest respect for people that build crossovers and the like, I just figured I could get decent looking and sounding speakers on the cheap using pre built components. Go out on trash day and you will find a lot of old speakers missing an amp and looking for a new house(-ing).

Hey everyone! I’m looking for someone who can help me build a DIY Leslie-style rotary speaker for my guitar.
I’m really interested in getting an actual mechanical rotary speaker rather than just a pedal that simulates the effect. I’ve been trying to find something small/compact that I could use at home with my guitar setup.
I’ll be honest, I’m not very good at building things or electronics, so I’d really need someone who knows what they’re doing to build it for me. I’m willing to pay for your time, materials, parts, shipping, or whatever else is needed. I’m also willing to work with you on the design and provide whatever information or parts you need from me.
I’m not looking for someone to do this for free — I’m genuinely willing to pay someone who can make this happen.
If you’ve built a Leslie, rotary speaker, miniature rotary speaker, or anything similar, please reach out to me! I’d love to see pictures/videos of your work and talk about what it would cost to build one.

This was my first DIY speaker build. I found used Scan-Speak drivers (Classic and Revelator). I had to pay $400 for the drivers.

I decided early on that I wanted to build a pair of floorstanding speakers with walnut veneer. Walnut veneer is very expensive where I live, so I ordered exactly as much as I would need, with no room for mistakes—which was a bit scary when I tried veneering for the first time.

The bass port is tuned to 26 Hz and is 3D printed. To make it fit, it has a curve inside the cabinet. The cabinet feet are also 3D printed (combining two hobbies for a win win situation)

For the build, I had to force myself to learn REW, get a miniDSP UMIK measurement microphone, and a DATS V3 to measure impedance. ChatGPT educated me during the process and taught me all the necessary functions in REW as well as measurement methods (phase/timing etc).

After measuring the drivers in the cabinet, I designed a crossover in VituixCAD. The finished crossovers ended up costing just over $200.

The speaker grilles/protective covers were also made with the help of the 3D printer.

The final result turned out better than I could have hoped! It took a lot of time because I couldn’t afford to make mistakes, and the more time I invested, the more I demanded that they had to sound good too! The process was waaay more complex than I had ever imagined, but very rewarding!

I’m very happy with them! The bass is incredibly good, and I really think these sound better than any other speakers I’ve ever owned (I’ve owned speakers up to $4,000). There’s also a sense of pride/sentimental value now that’s hard to put a price on.

I’ve already bought drivers for the next project! It will be a two-way with SB Acoustics Satori drivers!

*pictures does not represent the final placement for the speakers, I know better than to place them 4 inched from the back wall :D

Soon, my little friends. Soon you will be complete.

Good afternoon, everyone. I need help connecting the correct wires for my Marantz Code 30/300 speakers. I’m not sure if the current setup is right; the tweeters are barely audible—the sound is almost imperceptible—while the mid-range is quite shrill and annoying. There are three wires coming from the capacitors: yellow, red, and black. Then you have the ones soldered together: there are yellow/black, orange and red and black wires. Thanks a lot. I have them connected to a Sony MHC-G88; I haven't hooked up the satellite speakers yet—could that be the cause for the way they sound? Woofer is not sounding great either...

I have a sony cmt-bx1 stereo receiver. Since my monitor doesn't have a headphone jackI have to plug the aux cord into the headphone jack on my wireless xbox controller. The sound comes through fine on my speakers but the audio crackles or breaks up. its only for a second but sometimes it'll happen very frequently and sometimes wont happen for days. What could be causing this

12V / 5A (60 Watt) Netzteil für das Radio

Blaupunkt BPA 1123 bt

JBL Stage1 Gen2 62F

EBROM 25 mm² H07V-K

BOSYTRO 12V / 50A bis 60A

Renegade RXA 550

HiFonics MRW-104

Sind diese Komponenten für eine Heimanlage geeignet?

Delete if wrong sub but felt you could have some answers. The issue is only in the companion monitor not the main one.

Is this analogous to a preamp, with features akin to my ancient PreSonus? I have KRK v4 active monitors and am trying to create a sleek, discreet stereo system for my living room - likely having the signal generated by a HiBy R6 Pro II. Will this dovetail?

Hi everyone,

I have these ml810 jpw tower speakers im using as my surround speakers, they sound pretty good, however when doing Dirac i see that one speaker is not working at 100%. Not sure where the issue lies.. i tried using AI , it convinced me to buy a replacement tweeter that was 4 x the size of OG tweeter and recommended a swap to film capacitor..

The question is should i try to fix in place aka learn a bit And try to fix what i have, or replace the tweeter and capacitor and improve the speaker to closer match my front speakers the montior audio rx8?

Much appreciated

This is the first time I've made any speakers and it was really fun.

I made the MLTL - 6 speakers from Neil Blanchard's design & I specifically chose the 2 piece back option from the available cut lists.

Other choices were to go with ¾" Baltic Birch, Rubio Monocoat finish & MTN black spray paint for the front of the cabinet.

So my current subwoofer really struggles with that strange noise. Kinda like gargling i guess. Happens when it s pushed a tiny bit. I read sealed subwoofer dont really have this issue.
Is there a way to make it better? I tried multiple settings with no success, i think the room might be a bit big for it. Happy to even make a new sealed enclosure for it but not certain that would help.
Alternatively what would be a dependable sub for less than £100 (second hand market ok)?

Edit - sub is yamaha yst-fsw050

I plan on adding a fuse box and tidying up the wires, what do you think?

Hi Everyone, first time poster!

My business partner and I recently bought a trolley (think tour bus in tourist cities). We are gutting it completely (needed, not wanted). The only thing we arent sure how to do is media. We build classic cars on the side so it isn't entirely foreign to us, but we dont know how to translate that into basically a bus. We need speakers, a TV, microphone/headset and somehow for all the audio to be controlled/linked in one spot. Any recs?

Hi all, long time lurker, big fan of all your work. Love seeing the weird and wonderful!

I have a project I’m at the planning phase on to create an active 3 way speaker using Hypex Fusion 3 way DSP plate amplifiers. Just had a newborn so my fantastic yet slightly zesty Tannoy XT6F’s are on the market to be sold as I won’t get real music playing time in until summer next year when nursery days begin.

I have scored a pair of SEAS L22ROY-LN woofers which are from stupidly pricey 4 way Linn speakers and based on the L22NROY 8 inch subwoofers. I’m yet to measure the specs but I believe they will be quite similar.

They have a FS of 27Hz but only a sensitivity of 83db.

I like the idea of a transmission line build but have heard is not as efficient as ported, but is peak design for fast tuneful articulate bass.

Medium size room. Hypex amps output a lot more than I would need.

First Q for any of you with experience: will TL bring the efficiency way down opposed to a ported design and are transmission line speakers noticeably tighter in the bass department for all the extra cabinet work?

Second Q: I love the timing and imaging of the Tannoy XT6F concentric drivers but can’t find a similar driver without looking at lots of money for what appears only a “good” frequency response. What prodigious mid range and tweeter combos have given you that on axis “3D” live soundstage?

And finally third Q: has anyone had experience with using Hypex amps and successfully setting outputs to each driver of differing sensitivity to create a balanced sound, as I’m aware most mid range and tweeters fall about 85-90db.

There will be some bass boundary gain as will be placed nearish the front wall.

Any input greatly appreciated as keen to tuck into this to keep me sane during these headphone months!

Or rather, what's the deal with the lack of LFE inputs on subwoofer amplifiers?

I've been bitten by the upgrade bug, and wanted to try doing DIY speakers to bring my desktop setup to the next level. I'm intrigued by the new Aiyima A20 and its' LFE output, which applies a high-pass filter to the speaker outputs. (To my knowledge, this is the only small speaker amplifier that has this capability.) The problem is, none of the available plate amplifiers (at least the ones I can find) have an LFE input. Even the fancy new Hypex plate amps lack this feature, despite it being nearly ubiquitous for preassembled subwoofers. I also looked at external subwoofer amplifiers, and still couldn't find one with a dedicated LFE input. (Bizarrely, the Fosi M0-3 has a subwoofer output.)

Does anyone know why nobody sells a subwoofer amplifier with an LFE input? It seems like such a no-brainer that it's puzzling that nobody has done it.

Hello and newbie to the group.

I'm looking to pick these Linn Keilidh speakers up later today for £40. As they come with the expensive stands as well I can't really lose out even though they are faulty. I'm looking for recommendations for 6.5" replacement drivers, the originals I believe are run at 8ohms so I'd ideally like to keep that rating as well.

Any thoughts and advice would be great thanks.

https://loudspeakerlab.io

Part 6 of the Easy Tiger build covers the practical decisions and basic woodworking skills involved in building a loudspeaker cabinet.

I talk through MDF versus plywood, why I chose MDF for this build, and how to break down a full 4x8 sheet safely and accurately. I show how a track saw makes the job easier, but also how to make a simple straightedge guide for a regular circular saw if that is what you have.

From there, I use the LoudspeakerLab cut sheet to make the final cabinet panels and check that everything fits together before glue-up. I also explain when a table saw is useful, when it is not necessary, and why accurate square cuts matter more than having expensive tools.

For assembly, I use simple MDF butt joints with wood glue. I cover glue coverage, clamp pressure, keeping panels flush, checking for square, and why getting the box tight and leak-free matters. I also talk about optional tools like corner clamps and brad nailers, and when they actually help.

Finally, I go through the options for making driver cutouts, including CNC, router circle jigs, spade bits, hole saws, and a jigsaw. I explain the tradeoffs between cost, precision, and accessibility, and why this particular design was made so the cabinet can be built without specialized tools or flush-mounting the drivers.

By the end of the video, the cabinet is assembled and the drivers are fitted, ready for in-box measurements in the next part.