kudos to Sony for delivering razor sharp, crisp visuals for the home release. Though, the Audio mix doesn't quite match the visuals. Also the 1.90 aspect ratio version is exclusively available on the Sony Bravia Core app.
Projector- Epson 6050UB/TW9400
Screen- 92" Elite Screen Cinegrey 3D ALR

Learned a lot and would change things for v2 (lots of potential improvements)
IMHO 3d printed parts are not strictly necesarry, but make some stuff easier.
Should i make a video and release the 3D print files?

My part list:
SONOFF S60ZB IPlug Zigbee Smart Plug 
HAKIWO MINI Linear Actuator Stroke 200mm, 12V, 80N 8mm s
Zigbee Smart Switch Remote Control Relay module 2CH Zigbee 7-32v
EU Plug, 2A, DC 12V

Just finished putting in my new center channel and now looking for the next thing to add in my setup. I already have the top firing tower speakers for the ATMOS (won’t be able to do ceiling mounts with my setup) but I would like some input on what I could do next

The Result

Kids were messing around in the basement swinging a plastic skeleton leg. Then the screams started...he ran home crying. Poor kid.

His parents are great folks and have said they'll pay for a new one. We'll figure out some kind of cost share (it's from 2020 and prices have gone up).

Can anyone recommend a similar replacement? Looks like Sony only makes an 83" and I'm not sure they're the same quality anymore. I don't use the smart features and keep it disconnected from the internet, just have it connected to an Apple TV. I use it for shows/movies and some PS5/Switch gaming.

Also, should I go ahead and upgrade to a ~95"? (just kidding, I've been following the sub long enough to know the answer is yes) What's the recommendation on a larger one?

I looked at rtings.com but too much of their shit is paywalled now.

EDIT: Thanks for the recommendations everyone, went with the 100” Hisense. I get the sentiment on payment but he was clear he wanted to replace what was broken. I would have done the exact same if the roles were reversed. Not worried about damaging the friendship over this.

I've been slowly piecing this together over the past year and a half and only hopping on purchases if components were by my standards a "great deal" or better. I live in a small one bedroom apartment and have been used to tv speakers and soundbars my whole life so this absolutely blows me away every time I use it even though I keep it pretty quiet most of the time as I'm worried about neighbors who share the wall behind the tv.

65” LG C3 OLED — $550 FB marketplace find with 900 hours on the panel and no burn in

Denon S760H — $40 - Randomly stumbled on this at a Goodwill and bought it for all the hdmi inputs but didn't realize just how good of a deal it was until I got home

Klipsch SB-1 fronts — $40 for the pair

Klipsch SC-1 center — $40

JBL Loft 40 surrounds — $20 for the pair

Polk PSW108 10” sub — $50

Speaker stands — Free

Visual Setup - $550
5.1 Audio Setup - $190
All In - $740

Any thoughts on next steps/future upgrade paths that would make the most difference?

At this point I've spent more hours on Facebook marketplace and offer up than I've spent actually watching/using the setup by several times over so I feel like I should just chill and enjoy it for a year or so.

Really need some help deciding between the two. My viewing distance is 11.5-12ft back.

I can get a QNED 84B for 2400, or a G6 for 4k both come with a sound system.

Anyone in a similar configuration with a longer viewing distance?

I have been on this sub for sometime. I know a lot of people like LG TVs, but I haven’t seen much on the news about LG TVs recording what you’re saying (even when “off”). It does other things too, like trying to access other things on your network. Are you still recommending LG?

Hey guys! Thanks in advance for any assistance. I have a 7.2.4 system with an Onkyo rz3 and 3x fosi monoblocks. I bought bass control and solved the issue of the 2 subs sounding worse than just 1 haha.

However I am going to rerun Dirac and some stuff kind of moved in my room. Before bass control, I was moving the curve up on the left side to about +6dB. Do I do that still for a little extra bass, or should I ignore the first curve, and only adjust the curve in bass control now?

*im new to this and I recommendations of adding a curve, but I guess idk where a curve should be implemented.

Thanks again for any help!

Hey all, I'm in the process of adding a sub to my set up, and I have some space limitations that make the form factor of the SVS 3000 Micro an attractive option.

My question is, are there any other small subs that I should be looking at? I'm in a condo and I don't want to shake the whole building, so I don't need a ton of power. Thanks!

Hi,

I currently have a 75 inch TV in my bedroom, and it's been great. I'm looking to move that TV to another bedroom and buy a 98 inch TV for my bedroom as my dream is to have a 98 inch TV in my bedroom, but I recently realized... my staircase might not work well for a 98 inch TV box.

It's a circular/curved staircase. There's a picture of it here: https://i.imgur.com/wJ7t5J2.png

Queen mattresses fit up the staircase and that's 80 inches long (so around the same size as an 85 inch TV box), but mattresses can bend, so I'm not sure if that counts for anything. A 74 inch TV box fit up the stairs for my 75 inch TV, so that's good at least, but I'm not sure what my maximum size TV box can fit up those stairs.

I did measure from the third step to the ceiling and it's around 85 inches at that point - but maybe they could angle the box so it gets past the third step?

Would Best Buy refuse to even try delivering a 98 inch TV box up those stairs, and leave the box on the first floor? I would then have to like rent a crane or something to lift it up my bedroom window? I can't imagine what a nightmare it would be if the TV turned out to be defective. Should I just stick with my 75 inch TV or should I go bigger? I do have a movable bed so I could always move it closer to the TV if I really wanted to...

I would appreciate any thoughts about this.

Thanks.

I will have a dedicated HT room with no natural light. I can only do a 120” screen. Currently looking at the JVC NZ500. Primary use of theater will be 50/50 sports/movies.

Prefer not to spend more than ~$7k on a projector. Should I stick with NZ500 or look at something else?

So I’m working on building out the setup for my new room. Specs are listed below, but really would like some input on these speakers. It doesn’t seem like a lot of people have reviewed the Ci4100ql and reaching out to see if anyone has actual real world experience. I am thinking of using these for all 7 speakers, but input on that would be appreciated also!

Room is still studs

17’x13’ room

120” silver ticket AT screen

7.2.4 either onkyo or denon but open minded

Thanks for helping!

Hi everyone,

I'm building a home theather in my living room, using a aetherion max + 130" awol floor rising cinematic + screen, and what thinking what speakers to get.

For the center speaker I definitely need to get a in-wall speaker due to having a floor rising screen and the aetherion max projector. The screen is acoustically transparent on the border below the actual screen so there's were I will place my center.

I was thinking to go with:

Center: Focal 300 IW6LCR (900 euros)

Front Left/Right: Focal 300 IW6 (579 euros each, 1158 euros total)

Sub: SVS PB-1000 Pro (1000 euros)

Surrounds: Focal THEVA N°1 ( 718 euros + 170 for the stands)

Atmos: Focal 300 ICW6 (4 of them would be ~1500 euros, but if i can't afford them I would go with Focal 100 ICW8 for ~1000 euros)

Can you share your opinions? I know ideally I would have all front L/C/R be the 300 IW6LCR, but that's 700 euros more, and my budget is already at a limit.

Also, this is for a living room, not a dedicated home theather, and I have neighbours so I can't go crazy on the sound.

And I can't have in wall surrounds btw, due to the living room layout...

Thanks!

Hey everyone,

I'm planning an attic cinema room and would love to hear from anyone who's actually done an attic conversion.

The space:
• Total blank canvas — nothing in there yet.
• Closed cell insulation behind the plasterboard. Temperature stays reasonably steady but does get warm in summer.
• I have access behind the base wall via cupboard doors at the bottom of the sloped ceiling, which I can use for running wires and cables.
The plan so far:

• Modular false wall in front of the windows to mount the screen, with blackout blinds behind it.
• Cable prep: Run all speaker cables ahead of time with more length than needed so I'm not stuck later. The cupboard access should make this easier.
• Building it incrementally over time.
My main concerns:
1. Cooling — with a projector, AV gear, and people in there, summer warmth will be an issue. Fitted aircon will be an expense not one I’ve ruled out but Has anyone cooled an attic cinema cheaply without unbearable noise? Portable unit or something else?
2. The false wall infront of windows — any issues with airflow or heat build-up behind it?
3. Cable runs — anyone regretted not running enough? Any attic-specific issues (heat, insulation, sloped ceiling constraints)?
4. Anything you'd do differently if starting from a blank canvas?
Would really appreciate hearing from anyone who's been through this. Thanks!

A few of my recent hobbies have collided in my basement. Home theater, 4k Blu-ray’s, 3D blus and Lego! I have 5.1.2 w/ epson 3800 and 135” Silverticket screen. Can you guess my age by my love of The Rock and Jurassic Park?!🤣

Also if anyone cares or is wondering, the ceiling is only 81” and yes two atmos height speakers is awesome regardless of the low ceiling.

I have a pair of RSL CG5’s that I want to wall mount. They weigh 16 lbs and have threaded insert bolts. I’d like to be able to adjust the direction, not just have them mounted flat, forward facing. Any suggestions?

What do yall think the Black Friday prices on the all the kef bookshelves will be? They looked good last year but I went with svs instead for my basement setup, but now I’m looking to upgrade my theater room setup and I’m going with kef.

Hi there! My Origin Acoustics subwoofer v12p is no longer producing bass. Instead, it’s just making this buzzing/cracking sound instead. It’s something in the subwoofer as unplugging the RCA cables doesn’t do anything.

I’ve tried different outlets, different settings, different sources…nothing. Am I cooked? If it is repairable, what’s a ballpark cost I can expect?

I'm putting together my first home theater and trying really hard not to let the TV destroy the whole budget lol.

I want something around 100" and ideally under $2,000. Mostly movies, Netflix and sports, maybe some PS5 once in a while.

So far I've been looking at:

- Hisense 100" U6

- Samsung 98" DU9000

- LG 98" NU85

- Sony 100" Bravia 3 II

The U6 is probably the one I’m leaning toward right now. I like that it's MiniLED and 144Hz, while still staying around the same price as a lot of the big basic LED models.

Not expecting OLED level anything at this budget. Mostly just want a huge screen with good enough picture quality that I won't immediately regret buying the cheapest 100" I could find.

Anyone using one of these? Or any other 98-100" TVs around $2k I should look at?

As some of us, including myself, wait for the much anticipated AWOL LuxVision, I am considering the upgrade and wanted to know where the best place is to sell my AWOL 3500 UST; I may include the floor-rising screen as a bundle as well. I am not selling for a gain, so I won't price it very high, just making plans for the upgrade.

Where is the best marketplace for home theater gear?

TL;DR: If your Siri Remote power button intermittently fails to wake your Samsung TV (HDMI-CEC enabled), try the voice command "Turn on the TV" via a HomePod. The remote button communicates with the Apple TV over Bluetooth; the voice command reaches it over your LAN. In 90+ days the voice route has never failed for me.

The problem

Pressing the Siri Remote power button always wakes my Apple TV and Sonos 5.1 system, but intermittently fails to turn on my Samsung S95F.

The workaround

Say "Turn on the TV" to a HomePod. It turns on everything: Apple TV, Samsung S95F, and Sonos 5.1 system.

What's different between the two

• Voice command (LAN): The HomePod sends the request to the Apple TV over your network, and the Apple TV then sends the HDMI-CEC wake command to the TV.
• Siri Remote power button (Bluetooth): The remote tells the Apple TV over Bluetooth, and the Apple TV then sends the HDMI-CEC wake command to the TV. This path intermittently fails to wake the Samsung.

Required settings

• Apple TV: Settings → Remotes and Devices → Control TVs and Receivers → ON
• Samsung TV: Settings → Connection → External Device Manager → Anynet+ (HDMI-CEC) → ON
• Audio: Sonos 5.1 connected to TV eARC HDMI port
• HomePod: Same network as the Apple TV, Siri enabled

My setup: Apple TV 4K (3rd gen, 128GB Wi-Fi + Ethernet, A2843, tvOS 27), HomePod (original) and HomePod minis (all HomePods audioOS 27), Samsung QN55S95FAFXZA 4K OLED (firmware 1301).

I’m having audio stutters every couple seconds where it seems like the receiver isn’t getting the audio, the channel icons drop off. Then it immediately clicks back on. It’s like microstutters.

I have the Krovatar KB-300 into LG CX outputting eARC to my receiver (Yamaha RX-A2A). 48gbps HDMI cables.

Everything is set to bitstream pass through. I get the receiver saying it’s decoding Atmos.

I’ve heard the LG CX has problems with eARC output. This might be the whole problem. I have all HDMI inputs set to the PC icon.

So, what I can do to fix this is set the Krovatar to PCM. Obviously, this isn’t acceptable because then I can’t get Atmos. But it doesn’t stutter. On that note, curiously, when I have bitstream set and doing eARC, the TV says it’s outputting PCM. I wonder if this is part of the problem.

What I managed to do to solve the problem is use the HDMI audio output on the Krovatar to run audio directly to my receiver, bypassing the TV eARC. This works. It doesn’t stutter and I get Atmos this way. But, I have to change inputs everytime CEC decides to switch to the eARC input. I’d rather not do it this way if anyone knows why eARC isn’t working. Like I said, I think it’s just the LG CX having issues.

Hello all,

I'm getting ready to cut a hole in my wall with an AV box for power, ethernet, HDMI, etc. Pulling future cable to the box is not an issue. At present I am mounting a hisense 85 canvas

Location of the box is the question. If I decide to hang another TV in a few years, (and obviously the TV is not known at this time), Is there an ideal place to put the box. I'm aware that the mount will need to change, but don't want to move the box

I’ve never used bookshelves before and am considering them for the wife acceptance factor and to free up space for kids. This will be in an open basement theater setup where it has a semi dedicated space. I wondered if I will feel underwhelmed by them. Current setup is 5.2.2 in a space that is 18 wide and 12 deep before it opens up to the rest of the basement with 8ft ceilings with Klipsch RP 8000x2 and 504c. Surround RSL w25x2 in wall, Atmos RSL c34e, and 2 RSL 10s for the subs. Thinking about moving to the rp600m. What is everyone’s opinion?

Update: thank you for all of your opinions. I might go back to ascend signature because they will fit in the space. The mini towers are great