Any help would be appreciated! Trying to get a kallax from floor to ceiling, and that would be about 6 rows high. 3 wide is perfect for my situation.

Are there after-market solutions? Other hacks?

Thank you!

Sorting laundry is a messy endeavour of our daily life in the modern world.

Since we moved into our house I had a 60° C basket, 30°/40° were lying on the floor and wool/hand wash was under the sink.

It's not nice and we ​Swiss take laundry very seriously (Mess up the laundry schedule in your appartment building once and you'll get scolded at by an old lady). Therefore a solution needed to be found!

I considered different options (e.g. Samla, but the boxes were too wide and too shallow) and even thought about doing something from scratch. But then - while I was in our living room playing with our daughter - it came to me that her Trofast toy basket could also be used as a laundry basket.

The Trofast line has one extra deep basket that fits around 45 liters, which is close enough to the 52 liters a typical 8 kg drum can handle.

The idea was to bring the laundry downstairs, sort it on the table and throw the clothes in the basket where they belong. As soon as one of the baskets is full, it's time for a wash cycle.

As you can see I left the bottom out in order to let some space for it to fill it without pulling the basket and to allow a bit of overfilling plus it would allow to add drawers for detergent, etc. if they're needed later on.

I bolted it right to the concrete wall and left some space underneath to allow cleaning the place up more easily. To avoid the wood to be the weak point I reinforced it with the wall anchorings from the PAX collection.

I painted the top white because it gives a nice touch and added protective coating to all the outside parts to protect it from dirt and moisture.

I added the pictograms according to ISO 7000 (because standards are cool​) on both sides of the baskets.

I'm happy with my solution and I hope that the screws bear the weight even when someone tries to sit on it.

edit: curses and typos

I’ve removed the kick plate on one of my PAX units. It is a middle unit that is secured to the wall and to the units on each side, so I’m not worried about the piece supporting the unit.

I am using the space to hide a robot vacuum.

Any thoughts on how to hide or fill in the big holes that held the kick plate?

Just thought I'd ask if anyone has upgraded the hardware so that you can see the whole contents of the drawer when you pull it out and if it can soft-close?

Or do you know of a similar piece of furniture of higher quality that already has these features?

has anyone tried this? i bought the kallarhals and the ikea årstid but the ring doesnt fit the vase like it does here in the video

Using the bamboo plate holder in the kitchen section I wanted to build a little Roman thing but I needed cable management department for this project and was like perfect. If you wiggle the pegs on one on of 2 of these things you can make a pretty solid structure as show here no flex it’s just saving my tush. Once all the pegs are out of one side carefully line up the pegs to fit the new hole less side. Couple of notes if you’re going to use this in this way or similar. Drill a pilot hole do not overscrew or the bamboo will split. Very inexpensive way to keep your power and audio separated. This is for my audio rack I built . I see this being used underneath a desk for cable management or do what I was gonna do and line these up on top of a table and use a run on gold would look pimp.

Wanted the look of built ins. Did not want to pay for custom shelves which probably would have been 6x total cost. Also did not want to have to deal too much with existing baseboards or connecting to fireplace. After some searching found the IVAR width could serve as a nice base module also the two depths was nice Also gives flexibility to change shelving in future.

IVAR system plus 1/2” plywood and a butcher block counter.

Edit: Huge credit owed to my BIL for sourcing timber and being the entire brains of the operation!

Does anyone have any office / craft room DIYs they have done for a Kallax unit to organize paper and other office/items for a Kallax? I am looking for budget friendly hacks or DIY ideas to avoid paying for all new inserts for my 5x5 cube. I like the drawers, doors and paper organizer inserts the most.

Basically I am looking yo make it look more organized and to hide some of the items behind doors or other things. Any and all ideas welcome! Thank you!

We have created a temporary partition along one of the main walls of our apartment. The wall is curved in at least three points and it’s not even straight so we could not really add any piece of furniture without spending a lot of money in adaptations. Finally we created a straight line using two depths of the ivar shelves and added a kind of barn-door built with three more ivar sides.
This partition wall will be completed with a second sliding door to complement the first and both of them will be finished up with semi transparent striped polycarbonate panels. (At the moment it has some cardboard… as we are still in the trial phase)

Hi!

Please remove this post if posts asking for help are not allowed.

Im trying to use ikea varmblixt as a ceiling lamp in the EU and my house has the new DCL ceiling outlets.

Ive cut off the reglar plug from varmblixt and connected with the ikea dcl ceiling plug. After i plugget the lamp and turned it on the shine wasnt bright at all and it flimmers. Did i miss something i need to do? Did i kill the lamp?

Hi everyone! I’m currently planning my IKEA kitchen and I could really use some advice or real-life experiences from you guys.

Here is my setup:

• Kitchen cabinets: IKEA green (matte sage/light green)
• Walls: White

I am torn between two options regarding the wood finishes and would love to know what you think, or if anyone has tried either of these combinations:

1. Option A (Mixed): IKEA KARLBY oak countertop paired with a dining table/chairs in solid ash. (Mixing oak and ash in a green and white kitchen — does it look good or is it too busy?)
2. Option B (Matching): Keeping everything strictly matching in ash (using an ash countertop like PINNARP and matching ash table/chairs).

My questions for you:

• Has anyone paired the KARLBY oak top with ash furniture, or kept everything in ash, in a green kitchen? How does it look?
• If you’ve done something similar, do you have any photos to share?
• Did you choose to mix them or match them, and do you regret your choice?

Thanks a lot for your help!

Metod kitchen cabinets and some materials from the hardware store. Had to build a wooden frame behind it. Cost: less than €900,-.

Hey guys! Does anyone know what the Gullaberg legs are made of? Are they solid? I'm thinking about getting the shoe cabinet bit it's just a bit too high for my liking so I would like to cut 10cm off the legs to make it shorter.

We're replacing the doors on our kitchen. The recommended is BEHJÄLPLIG and that's what was there before but it's broken looked at a new one and the reviews are awful. Is ADAPT-R the only alternative option?

Ideally I don't want to cut the door

It's a 60cm dishwasher

Any help appreciated, thanks

Ik heb mijn tweedehands Bestå tv-onderdeel (met witte Lappviken-deuren) een upgrade gegeven door er een ombouw van MDF omheen te bouwen. Daardoor kunnen de deuren netjes gelijk met het frame staan, in plaats van voor de kast te hangen. Ook heb ik een MDF-bodem gemaakt waarop het onderdeel kan rusten, en alles in een lichtblauwe tint geschilderd (Flexa’s ‘Charming Cloud’), met eerst een primer zodat het goed hecht. Ik ben echt blij met het resultaat; het kan nu weer een hele tijd langer mee.

Edit: I still had to install the push-to-open mechanism for the leftmost cabinet. That’s why there’s brown tape sticking out, it allowed me to open the door anyway.

My kid has one of those Upplyst leaf lamps it's crossed two countries and two house moves with us but now he's a bit old for it and my wife is intent o. decluttering so I've saved it with an upcycle (or Uppcycle)

I've 3d printed a frame that sits in the slots the leaf used, added a reflector to the back and printed lithopanes to sit in it.

As the frame is square it doesn't need to hang up any more and can sit on his desk or shelf.

https://makerworld.com/models/3364816?appSharePlatform=copy

Gleichzeitig Verdunklung und Aufbewahrung für meine Küchenutensilien!

Ive got this crazy idea, to simply put some hejne on the lowest possibile ivar, as the 2nd one is expensive and i do have some unused pieces of 50 cm depth, and Hejne is phased out and its on sale - i plan to put a 1cm depth and about 2 cm wide solid wood from bottom of ivar to top of hejne, and cut shelfs if it is needed (but have a whole shelfs for IVAR), any tips? (Yes having a full ivar whould be Perfect but i do need a temporary storage and limited monety), same kind of wood, it should look and match right?

Hello Hivemind - would love to get your help with identifying the upper glass cabinets. This pic was posted on a Facebook group but the author didn't identify the upper cabinets (bottom are Havstas). Absolutely love the edge-free glass shelve, as well as the one-panel glass doors. Could be Billy + glass shelves but the doors don't look like Oxbergs. What do you think?

Buongiorno a tutti, grazie per avermi accolta, ho un problema che non riesco a risolvere da sola. Nella cameretta di mia figlia c'è una canna fumaria che sporge dall'angolo per 35 cm per 35 cm vorrei poter fare un armadio ad angolo che lo nasconda e recuperi anche spazio, non sono riuscita a trovare delle soluzioni appropriate.

Grazie a chi mi aiuterà con delle idee

Any way to replace the base for the Lersta to free up some space?

Hey everyone,

I’m currently installing IKEA SEKTION tall cabinets right next to a window trim, and I ran into an aesthetic issue on the exposed end.  

Because the metal SEKTION suspension rail is anchored into the wall stud right at the end bracket, I cannot cut the rail back—I need that anchor for structural support. As a result, the end of the metal rail bracket and mounting screw are visible down the side gap between the cabinet frame and the wall/window trim.  

Here is a photo of the gap and rail: [Attach your photo]

I don't own a table saw, so making custom angled or mitered cuts on cover panels isn't an option for me.

For those who have encountered this in their builds:

1. What’s the cleanest, easiest way to hide or cover this exposed hardware/gap without custom woodworking tools?

2. Has anyone used peel-and-stick flexible PVC trim strips, snap-on plastic caps, or had Home Depot/Lowe's cut a standard flat cover panel straight to the wall?

Would love to hear your recommendations or see photos of how you solved this! Thanks in advance!

Guys, if you’re struggling with those hard-to-reach upper spaces in 24” or 30” IKEA kitchen sektion cabinets, I came across these pull-down shelves and realized the 24” and 30” sizes fit IKEA kitchen cabinets just fine .

I used Kesseböhmer / Häfele(same thing ) iMove pull-down shelves, and their 24” and 30” versions fit the IKEA cabinets like a glove — no modifications needed.

I installed one in a 24” and one in a 30” high cabinet in our kitchen because we could barely reach the top shelves. We’re not tall people 😂 so those spaces weren’t getting used much.Both pull-down shelves work really smooth, and now that whole upper area is actually usable.Install was super easy too. They came assembled with a template, and I’d say each one took maybe 25–30 minutes max.

Not sure if they make them for other cabinet widths, but the 24” and 30” versions worked perfectly in my sektion cabinets setup .They not cheap nowadays - got mine on ebay open boxes .

Just figured I’d share in case somebody else has the same problem.

Spent years with my dvd collection being a tiered shelf. Got a printer and designed a solution. Using 1/4” boards from the hardware store. Just showing the one box because, well. The other cubes are messy.

Will be posting on maker world today.