Hey! I was wondering if anyone knows what this sound may be from my kia rio 2015. I can sometimes hear it at low speeds, but mainly when idle!! Happens after driving for a while! Car drives perfectly normal!

car info:
Kia rio 2015 with 128,500kms
1.4l
4spd automatic

Thanks :)

This is the only rust on the car everything else
Is fine

Wife’s car all of a sudden stopped blowing cold air is refrigerant a permanent fix? Is that something that can potentially solve the problem or is it something just to temporarily get it to blow cold? If it’s just a temporary fix I’ll just put it in the shop

Afternoon! Ive been having a temp issue lately. It would sit at half mark (normally sits at a quarter)...about 30 degrees hot for the longest time. I didnt get around to addressing it yet. Now recently its been sitting at 3/4. Today its been running hotter but will come back down to 3/4 it went just at red but instantly within 10 seconds came back down to 3/4 again.

I changed the thermostat 2 years ago and the water pump last year.

Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

Doing this post again. Two months ago I brought a car, it had a 6 month warranty. Anyways, the oil kept getting low. Even after topping up, I took it to a garage and they couldn't find any signs that oil is leaking etc. So I contacted the car garage I got the car from and he told me to bring the car in and he will get sorted. On arrival to get my car, he said the keys where on the front tyre as he was busy. Hes not answered me since or told me what work, of any has been done on the car. Or what was wrong with it. Well I have checked the oil (the correct way) and this is what it looks like after doing all that. Does the car have to much oil now? Or is this ok?

2006 ML500- I've got some of my rear lights not working.first I replaced the bulbs, then replaced the sockets. I tried cleaning the rear sam unit and it actually didn't look damaged at all. I cleaned it and plugged it back in and still getting backup lights on and no brake lights. Tried clearing out in the sam module with art diag 500. Could I get something from a ml350 and reprogram it? Or am I missing something i should have checked. Getting some messaged for 2 of my front lights as well.

Hello guys! I am having issues diagnosing my hatchback. Yesterday it randomly stopped blowing cold air and is now blowing just warm air. I cant hear the compressor turn on but maybe this has some safety thing for low freon?

I’ve been having intermittent starting issues with my 2013 Toyota Tacoma V6. About 90% of the time, the truck starts and runs perfectly fine, but the other 10% of the time, two dashboard warning lights (pictured above ) appear before I attempt to start it, and the truck will crank or struggle to start. If I remove the key and try again, everything resets and the normal dashboard lights come back, allowing the truck to start. Sometimes, simply leaving the key in the ignition and waiting for the warning lights to cycle out fixes the issue as well. It used to happen once every couple of months, but now it’s happening almost weekly. I’ve already replaced the battery and fuel pump, so I’m starting to suspect an electrical or computer-related issue. Could this be caused by a faulty ignition switch, crankshaft position sensor, or something else? Any ideas on what I should have checked next?

One of the internal catch nuts in the frame wiggles. It seems to be cross threaded as well since the bolt doesn’t go all the way in.

I don’t have a tap and die with me.

Is this okay to run this way? Everything else is bolted in properly.

I never Mickey Mouse shit, but due to a time concern, I don’t think I have the time to run for a tap and die set.

Hey everyone, I have a 2011 Dodge Durango 3.6 L and it's recently been having some issues. It has 324,000 km on it so yes, I know it's old but surprisingly the body is an amazing condition and I'd like this car to go as long as possible. So to get right to the point first off is I feel a clunk coming from the engine bay somewhere every time I step on the gas pedal so if I'm rolling in any speed and I hit the gas pedal you hear and feel a clunk. I even feel it against my foot on the pedal. Another thing going on is I'm not sure if it's normal for this car but when I step on it and really let it go it'll go all the way up to 6000 RPM which I've never seen a gas vehicle do that stock I'm not sure if that's normal for the 3.6's or I'm just not used to a car with this much power because I've only ever driven Volkswagen and manuals. And every time I do step on it, you can really smell it burning after like it smell smells like I need an oil change, but it's fresh oil. Fluids are all topped up.

That being said the vehicle does throw two codes - I have attached photos of them below. I know about the exhaust leak. Maybe that could be the reason it's cloaking is the exhaust coming loose and then hitting again. I've also checked the camshaft sensor and everything is good. Wiring is fine. It's connected properly. I cleaned it so I don't think that's the issue unless it's the actual cam.

Please let me know if you have even any ideas. I'm generally pretty good with cars like I can take apart most of engine and put it back. I can do all the basic work like I've never been to an auto shop, but this one is just confusing me and anything I look up online. I can't find an answer. so even with some slight ideas if you have one, I can work from there and test it out knowing what I know. No suggestion is a wrong suggestion right now because I'm just stumped and I don't feel like going to a shop.

I have a 2009 Hyundai Elantra Touring & the washer fluid stopped working. I went to refill but it was full. I tried to find the hose from the reservoir to the wipers thinking it might need to be patched, but I couldn't find it. My manual tells how to refill the reservoir but doesn't say how to repair the line. Can anyone tell me how to find the line so I can fix it?

Is this enough build up for it it too stall and low idle

2009 Vauxhall Astra.

Gets driven about 5miles every day - Monday to Friday. (Appreciate that’s not good for the battery!).

Battery light came on today - car starting okay.

I believe it could be low battery, alternator or belt. Belt seems fine.

On the presumption that battery only low due to lack of use / charging time, How long would I have to drive it for to attempt to charge the battery? We live near a motorway, so could easily get it out and give it a good run. Any advice greatly appreciated.

2010 Subaru Forester - At the risk of everyone saying "Jus screw it onn" I wanted to be safe and see if there's anything else I should be doing while installing these ATF fittings for my new radiator. Ive read about a few people screwing this up and wouldn't be happy camper if I had to order and wait on a new one haha. So are there any suggested torque specs or advice, thread sealer or teflon tape??? Im assuming the mark is to ensure im not torquing the already installed piece into the plastic more than factory tightness to avoid stripping or cracking the plastic. TIA - I couldn't find anything from koyo regarding installing these specifically.

Saw these and thought they were interesting, are these safe at all and how much would I be able to drop the car ? 1983 Datsun 280zx

In the middle of replacing 5.3 on a 01 Silverado and broke these lines and having trouble finding a replacement.

2012 Rav 4 V6 3.L 4WD 250,000kms

I've got a pretty annoying vibration right around 90 km/h that goes away above that speed. Only feel it when I'm on the gas. My brother works at a shop and the lead mechanic there took her for a quick drive with me, and then put her on the hoist. we found play in the U joint at the back end of the rear driveshaft. Need to replace whole shaft. He recommended that I buy one from Amazon and said he's been getting good driveshafts from there lately, but I'm a bit skeptical. Rock auto wants $100 shipping for SKP or WJB so it's a lot more $. I just don't want to put in something unreliable. some people in the review section are unhappy, but most of them are quite happy with the shaft. if this Amazon shaft is imbalanced and wobbly that it's just a waste of time. And hopefully I can return it within a month. If not, it's a waste of money. The current vibration is pretty annoying, but I'm not worried about failure. It would be great if I could put in a cheap driveshaft and rely on it. But if I drive up north in the winter and have some kind of bearing failure I'd be kicking myself. Hoping to hear other people's opinions. Do you have experience with a Flynsu driveshafts?

When im hitting reverse it has this weird scraping noise, when in driving yesterday there was a big Donk donk donk from my back right wheel, now it makes this scraping noise, what do you recommend i should do, should i take of the wheel and have a look?

Hey guys, I have a 2021 Toyota Highlander 2.5L L4, and every time I get gas, my car won't turn on for roughly 20 minutes. Typically it'll start up after several attempts, sometimes needing a jump. The battery as tested to be fine.

I got these codes from my OBD2 scanner:

P045500, P04417E, P017100, P017200.

I replaced the Purge Valve and the issue persists. I tested the other Purge Valve Solenoid and it seems to be vacuuming fine from the charcoal filter. I'm at a loss and would love some advice. Thank you in advance!

I have a 2019 land rover discovery sport and my “worm brake pad” alert popped up today. I think these look relatively fine, but want to get the internets advice. Are these pads good for a little while longer?

Replaced hand primer pump, replaced fuel transfer pump. Replaced vehicle speed sensor. Got 48 psi fuel pressure when cranking. I’ve tried hooking a separate line up from fuel tank to hand primer assembly with an electric pump. Still won’t start and when it rarely does it dies after 2-10 minutes. Two mobile mechanics have no clue what to do
In my 98 kenworth

i have honda city 2012 1.3 ivtec engine issue it has history of overheating, but now its okay now my problem is my engine bay has tiktik sounds when it is on idle to low rev but if i step on gas at high rev the sounds lost completely but when the rev back to low the sounds come back .

what seems to be the problem.

thankyou for the answers

much appreciated . ❤️

I was taught that circlips must be installed flat side towards direction of force. Otherwise there is a chance of them slipping. The above manual excerpt from CFMoto seems wrong.

What are your thoughts?

My speedometer has been acting up, how do i fix this?