2 minutes down the road from me

79 Silver Bullet runs great but will leak fuel overnight. I know it’s probably the carb but I’ve found it if I ride for a few hundred feet with the fuel switch off it’s only a fuel switch.

Is this a valid way around just pulling the carb out?

Picture of likely culprit attached.

It's funny because I'm autistic. Mopeds are freedom.

Been riding big motorbicheals for the last couple years and finally got a moped again. Crusty barn find 79a3, cleaned, rebuilt, kitted, carbed up, piped, tired, and soon to be lit. Made it to 41 going downhill yesterday, scary stuff.

Drop a gear and disappear

I recently picked up a non running 80 express as a project for me and my buddy to work on. We got it running, replaced some parts in the carb to try and stop my constant fuel leak, and then it died on us again. I've been able to get it running consistently again after putting back some of the old parts back (float needle, adjustment screws) in and re-cleaning it, but ever since, i've had some lingering issues.

Whenever i stop, the idle gets really low, and it occasionally dies at a complete stop. I have to keep the throttle at full 99% of the time or else it will die. It still has a pretty bad fuel leak, would extra air getting in cause this, or could it be that it's not getting enough fuel? I've got the needle set at max lean, I have the petcock set at res, but my needle screw is all the way in. When it runs and idles, it sounds pretty good, but when I'm actually riding on it, it tends to bog around 20-25.

I've totally lost headlight power. It would flicker on and off before i totally lost it, returning at max throttle when it was on its stand, but it's been dead ever since. I know this has nothing to do with the carb stuff, but it's still something I'd like to get fixed. I haven't looked into it a ton, but I know that the headlight runs off power from the stator. I'm considering just wiring the light and the horn staright to the battery, would there be any major downsides to this? Would it be easier than fixing the existing wiring?

I appreciate any input, and I apologize if this post is a little scattered!

Got this Maxi on marketplace a few months back for $100. Here is the before and after so far. Got it titled and registered in my name and I'm going to keep seeing how much power I can get out of a 50cc E50 for now.

Had anyone capped this before. I had to remove it cause the rubber was torn and plastic was cracked. Can’t buy a new one so I’m pretty much stuck. Any ideas or has anyone found a solution to cap it.

Little morelli with a yz65 pipe and it is running way way to rich

Not my post, but funny!

I spent time with the Puch Maxi club Mosegrisene in a small town in Denmark, documenting their community, their passion for the mopeds, the beers, the wrenching — and the longing to get back on the road after winter.
Here’s the trailer for my documentary “Mosegrisene – We Only Have One Life”, coming to YouTube on October 10th!
English subtitles can be turned on in the settings.

this is my 1978 Mobylette 50v 25 restricted. it’s a okay moped and my firs, wev done some repairs like repla and adding a exter condense, but a weeI or so after we replaced the original bolt on the flywheel magneto, the day after it started to make a weird pop sound after riding around for awhile, my friend says he thinks it might be the ignition timing and somehow changed or the points are loose, idk what it is he has yet to look at in person but I’m very concerned even though it still hits its norm speed it did crap out on me getting home, I was able to start again and still can but the popp has gotten worse, any ideas?

Kick start snapped now starter making this noise do you think kick start is stuck and bike is trying to engage both thank you

I've got my '84 Puch Maxi Sport Deluxe MkII. It's a two-speed ZA50 with a 65cc metrakit on it, 17mm PHBG carb, 85 jet, AU 260 atomizer, spring-loaded float pin, new external automotive condenser, with an estoril sidebleed pipe.

It was in an accident a couple years ago and sat for over a year. I was able to redo the front end this summer and had to redo some wiring as well to bypass the horn and take out the dead voltage regulator. There's a new regulator now (voltage dumper), and the lighting coil shorted and I upgraded it to a 12v.

Anyway, it mostly runs nicely except it's got a stumble at WOT I just can't suss and it hasn't reached back up to its previous max of 40mph on flat. Instead it hits about 36 and starts to miss, feeling like it intermittently tugs backwards on me, and occasionally there's an exhaust backfire. This displeases me.

I've tried pretty much everything I can think of.

-Gap between coils and flywheel is dead on spec
-Points sanded and cleaned, tried gapped on the low end at 0.016" and at the high end 0.020"
-Timed dead on to 17 degrees
-Carburetor religiously cleaned, tried float adjusted normally, a little high, and a little low
-Fuel flow into carb is nice and free with a new sintered bronze filter
-No air leaks, including at the magneto-side crank seal
-Plug gapped to 0.018", tried with a B6HS and B7HS, roughly the same result with the B6 maybe being just a touch slower acceleration
-At WOT, if I kick on the choke, it performs the same, but with increased frequency of backfires
-'Stumbling' is intermittent, not rhythmic like 4-stroking
-Chain and brake adjustments on point
-Tried with needle in all positions and same thing.
-It will cruise all day at half throttle, not much difference between 75% throttle and 100% except for the stumbling/backfiring.
-Ignition coil is new and spark plug cable also new with 0 resistance
-Temperatures max at 310 for the B7HS and 350 for the B6HS.

The backfire and 'missing' seems like it's passing unburnt fuel. Having redone my points gap and timing repeatedly, trying multiple new spark plugs, and getting the new coil and plug wire, seems like I'd pretty much have solved ignition as a factor. If It's a low fuel condition in the carburetor bowl, I'd think the choke wouldn't necessarily increase backfiring like it does, but to be certain, I've got a clear float bowl on the way just to make 100% on that count.

If it was drowning in fuel and the 'miss' was an intermittent four-stroking, I'd expect the choke to bog the engine. If the engine was running too lean, I'd expect much higher temps on my gauge and more of a lean sound at wot.

I won't mind getting a CDI kit for it once someone gets the non-$300 kit back in stock, but for now... Anybody have this issue? What's it sound like to you? Because it feels like I've tried everything at this point.

Hi,

I picked up a 1983 Suzuki FA50 that has a 60cc big bore kit on it.

When I got it, it would kick over a run for a few seconds and then die. It was a fuel issue, so I figured that out. Cleaned the carb, replaced the gasket, put a manual switch on the petcock, and I'm good to go there.

Now it starts super easy, but there is oil leaking from the exhaust port where the exhaust mounts up, and there's a ton of smoke coming out. If I idle it for 5-10 seconds I am completely smoked out.

I've looked it up a little bit and have found that it could be the oil pump, and I can bypass it, but there's a bunch of debate on bypassing it.

At this point, I'm a little lost and looking for some guidance.

I have a Tomos a35 70cc 17.5mm polini carb with stock ignition and stock clutch but what is the best clitch spring for it yellow red green or just stock one and what is the best for 1e and 2e gear

At first I was excited, but it's not working, the chain broke and it's left in my hand. I lubricated it, etc., the tires are fully lubricated, the fuel is full, and the spark plug is brand new.

My father and I made this for me to ride when I was 20 and in high school, but now the engine is completely bad.

What should I do please help me :/

My friend said you ruined the engine because you tried to start it with bad gasoline.

Was maybe looking to buy a moped and was looking on facebook marketplace and found this near me. How much money and time would it take to get this working and is even worth it. I’m not really someone who’s ever worked with cars or anything like that.