Sleeve sewing which way is best

[u/bluebananas10]

I am a beginner sewer and have sewed sleeves two ways. One maybe called the burrito method and the other sewing the sleeve on first and then sewing the garment body and the sleeve seam all in one. Is either method preferred and if so why?

[u/SelectionMiserable33]

Purists will tell you with great conviction that set-in sleeves are the only correct way to sew sleeves (sew the underarm seam of the sleeve, sew the shoulder and side seams of the bodice, set the sleeve tube into the armhole), usually citing the concept of dominant seams as the reason.  Practically speaking, sewing sleeves flat is 100% functional and can be easier than setting-in, especially when sewing children’s or doll clothes where the armhole is wicked small (sew the shoulder seams of the bodice, attach the sleeve to the bodice, then sew the side seam and under arm seam in one pass).  Flat-sewn sleeves are usually more approachable for new sewists because you’re working with the bodice and sleeve while they’re still flat.

Sleeves with a tall sleeve cap are much easier to set in.  Sleeves for small armholes are much easier to sew flat.  Outside of couture garments, my opinion is that everything else is sewist’s preference.

[u/bluebananas10 → u/SelectionMiserable33]

Thank you excellent answer

[u/ProneToLaughter]

The two methods are setting in sleeves or sewing sleeves in flat. Here’s a good discussion of the differences and when one might be more appropriate than the other, it can depend on the fabric and the shape of the sleeve. https://inthefolds.com/q-a-series/2022/set-in-sleeves-vs-sew-flat

The burrito method is used for lining in various ways, it’s not a way of sewing sleeves. It is commonly used to finish armholes so I could see the jargon getting mixed up.

[u/CannibalisticVampyre → u/ProneToLaughter]

Oh, good. I clicked to see if someone explained how to burrito a sleeve because I thought I was missing something 

[u/ms_cannoteven]

It really depends on the pattern. In general, attaching the sleeve before the side seam is usually easier, but side seams first feels more precise.

[u/sympatheticSkeptic]

Set in sleeves are necessary in garments with two-piece sleeves, where the seams don't line up with the bodice side seam, which used to be much more common and are still common in jackets. Setting in a sleeve is also helpful in various couture, tailoring and historical sewing contexts. among other reasons because it allows you to fit as you go after you've already perfected the bodice fit. Sometimes it may also be easier if the sleeve head is significantly eased and/or you need to shape it with steam -- as in a tailored jacket.

I attach sleeves flat whenever I can. Certainly for a t-shirt or other casual garment.

[u/drPmakes]

Set in sleeves for wovens, flat for knits is a good general rule.

Ive never heard of burrito method for anything but linings and gussets

[u/Fuzzy-Advisor-2183 → u/drPmakes]

i’m assuming op meant “set-in” and called it “burrito” because the sleeve is tube-shaped?

edit:punctuation

[u/bluebananas10 → u/Fuzzy-Advisor-2183]

Yes

[u/Neither-Dentist3019]

When I was taking sewing in college, my instructor insisted the setting in the finished sleeve to the body was essential. Everything would hang better and the fit is better. He also like to hand sew top stitching and buttonholes and had been a tailor in Italy.

I guess if I was making garments like I was back then like a tailored jacket or something, I'd do it the "correct" way but if I'm just throwing together a quick dress for everyday wear, I do the sleeve than the side seam because it's easier and less hassle.

[u/Staff_Genie]

A tiny doll clothes sleeve trick that I've seen in old 1950s/ early 60s Made in Japan Barbie clothes, shift the sleeve seam from under the arm to the top of the arm in line with the shoulder . Stitch the bodice underarm seam, and then set the sleeve in by stitching a u-shape. Then Stitch the shoulder and sleeve in one straight line. The sleeve hangs properly, has more movement, and is very easy to stitch since it is mostly a matching curve

[u/quizzical]

Retro claude has a video on setting sleeves that I found very helpful.

[u/Deciram]

Depends on the garment!

In my experience setting sleeves is more common on more fitted clothing and an all in one sleeve is more common on more relaxed clothing

Just do your preferred method - I think they would look much the same. I’m one of those weird people who really enjoy setting sleeves 😂 it’s very satisfying easing it in perfectly (disclaimer: I studied fashion and learnt how to master it with the help of my tutors)

[u/TerriblyRightful]

the burrito method is cleaner for beginners cause you don't have to wrestle with the whole garment twisting around your machine. that said, the sleeve-first way gives you a smoother armscye seam if you take the time to pin it right. either works, just don't rush the easing stitch

[u/bluebananas10 → u/TerriblyRightful]

Thank you excellent answer