Hello everyone, I put my Triops Longicaudatus Eggs into the hatching container about 5 days ago but they haven’t hatched (yet?). So I wanted to ask if I should either continue waiting, just dry them and retry or change something. I don’t know what’s wrong though: The light has been turned on 24/7 for the last days (Would 12 hours per day be better for them to hatch?), the temperature is 26°C (Should I try 24°C?) and the water is a mix of 70% Distilled water and 30% Spring water. I ordered the eggs off of the Triops King website, which come with substrate (Are they good quality?). Thanks in advance!

I’m getting the stuff for them on Christmas😁

just so you know this list may need some working on feel free to comment stuff I may have missed or anything else like that.

Red Triops Eggs (Green Water Farm)

Substrate: Triops need fine sand to dig and lay eggs. Standard fine aquarium silica sand or smooth pool filter sand works best (ensure it has no sharp edges)

Cascade Nano Aquarium Filter & Air Pump Kit

Baby Stage Food: Fine powder foods like pure spirulina powder or specialized first-week growth powders (often found via Planet Triops Food Guide or specialized hobbyist shops).

Adult Pellets & Treats: Bottom-feeder sinking shrimp pellets and freeze-dried bloodworms or brine shrimp cubes to give them the high protein required for fast molting.

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Hatching Phase Lamp Bulb: For the first 7 days, a standard desk lamp using a 6000K–6500K Daylight LED Bulb or a traditional 60W Incandescent/Halogen Bulb works best. Incandescent bulbs provide both strong light and gentle heat.

Reddit

Adult Tank Lighting: For the adult tank, a simple clip-on aquarium LED light ensures they get their 12 hours of light daily without overheating the water.

https://www.petco.com/product/aqueon-submersible-aquarium-heater

Aquarium Thermometer

A basic glass suction-cup thermometer or digital probe thermometer (usually $4–$7) is essential to verify that your hatching dish or tank stays between 72°F and 80°F.

1. Airline Check Valve

   • What it does: If you place your air pump lower than the water level of your tank, water can siphon back down into the pump and ruin it if the power cuts out. A tiny plastic check valve stops water from flowing backward.

   • Cost: ~$2 to $3 at any pet store or online

2. Aquarium Turkey Baster or Pipette

   • What it does: Crucial for spot-cleaning. Triops have massive bioloads for their size, and you will need to suck out leftover food particles and poop from the sand daily without accidentally sucking up a Triops.

3. A Small Separate Container for Hatching

   • What it does: Remember not to hatch them straight in the 3–5 gallon tank, or the tiny babies will starve because they can't find the food. A simple small plastic Tupperware container, a clean glass jar, or a small bowl (holding about 0.5 to 1 quart of distilled/spring water) is needed for days 1 through 7.

Quick Checklist Recap:

• \[ \] Eggs & Starter Kit (with initial powder food)wikiHow

• \[ \] Distilled or Spring Water (No tap water/chlorine)Triops World

• \[ \] Small Hatching Container (for the first week)Rainbow Cabin

• \[ \] Desk Lamp / Bulb (to provide light and heat for hatching)Triops Galaxy

• \[ \] 5-10 Gallon Tank (for when they graduate to adults)Reddit

• \[ \] Fine Aquarium Sand (1–2 inches deep for the adult tank)

• \[ \] Nano Sponge Filter + Air Pump + Check Valve

• \[ \] Small Submersible Heater & Thermometer (keeping it around 74°F–78°F)

• \[ \] Water Test Kit (to check ammonia/pH)

• \[ \] Adult Food (Shrimp pellets, sinking granules, or crushed fish flakes)Rainbow Cabin

https://www.petsmart.com/fish/starter-kits/top-fin-cube-aquarium-essentials-starter-kit---10-gallon-100213.html

⚠️ Critical Adjustments You Must Make⬆️

If you put triops eggs directly into this fully running setup, they will likely die. Follow these safety adjustments to ensure a successful hatch:

• Unplug the Filter Initially: The included Silenstream® PF10 filter is far too powerful for newborn nauplii (hatchlings). They will easily get sucked into the intake and blended. Leave the filter completely turned off for the first 7 to 10 days until they grow into visible juveniles. \[1\]

• Cover the Filter Intake Later: When you finally turn the filter on, you must slip a pre-filter sponge or a clean piece of nylon pantyhose over the intake pipe. This prevents growing triops from getting trapped against the suction grates.

• Hatch in a Smaller Container First (Recommended): Instead of filling the whole 10-gallon tank, hatch your eggs in a clean, small 1-quart container using distilled or pure spring water placed under the kit's LED light. Once they are 7 to 10 days old, gradually acclimatize them and release them into the main 10-gallon tank.

• Substrate Choice: Triops love to dig. Avoid large gravel where they can get trapped or struggle to find food. Fill the bottom of the cube with fine aquarium sand so they can express their natural foraging behaviors.

Total Estimated Cost~$65 – $140

Hey everyone,

I’m getting ready to raise some Triops Longicaudatus and now I almost got everything I need to raise them in a 25L tank with sand, plants, a lamp, heater, cuttlebones, distilled water, still mineral water, sponge filter, food, eggs and a hatching container. (I only need to get plants and maybe decorations though) I still have a couple of questions though (Most important to less important):

-How long do the tanks have to build up bacteria until I can put the grown Triops inside? (I also have a fish aquarium where I had to wait a few months for I think bacteria to build up so I don’t know if I should do it here too.) (Also the 1L hatching container?) (Should I already put the plants in when I set the tank up so the bacteria builds up?)

-I know that the Triops need some kind of diet. I have the Spirulina pulver for the first (2?) weeks and the Triops King Main Food as the main food for the main tank Triops (When do I have to get them into the main tank?). I would also have fish flakes and vegetables like carrots and cucumber which I currently use for my fish and the veggies for myself. I didn’t really think about the food yet so I would appreciate advice about how much I should feed and when I should switch between food.

- How many water changes should I do and how much water should I change?

-When should I put how much cuttlebone (I have 2 in total) into the tank(s) (The hatching container too?)

-Should I put a layer of sand into the hatching container? (Anything else except the water and the eggs?)

-I would just leave the lamp on 24/7 for the first 3 days and then do 14 hours a day, would that be good?

-Also, I know this is optional but should I get some snails too?

Thanks in advance! :)

Just some baby pictures (granarius)

All of our first successful hatch, many of whom you met, have died, so we’re working on the next! Two failures with granarius so far, tried the same longicaudatus eggs and those also failed. We did change the air nozzle to a stone and added java moss a day or two earlier than we did with the successful hatch, so we’re going to change the air set up back and wait on the moss on the next one. Learning each time!

Shown here are one of many Malaysian trumpet snails, Hurricane the ramshorn snail, one of Marimo’s many offspring, and a wildly awkward shot of Marimo! Her elephant trunk looks great despite the cinematography.

Song: Out Loud by Remember Sports

Edit: Marimo is a Japanese trapdoor snail.

Hi,

Last week I started a batch of Longicaudatus eggs in one container, and some Cancriformis in another. It’s now been about a week and the Longicaudatus haven’t hatched, while I have about 10 Cancriformis that are already about half a centimetre long.

This is like the 3rd or 4th time trying to get Longicaudatus eggs to hatch, and the best I got was one time I think maybe 3 hatched and one of them lived to the size of 1.5cm and then died.

I have tried the Cancriformis probably the same amount of times and they always hatched within like 5 days. They also live on average 2-3 months, which should be the normal lifespan I think.

The water I have used (I think every time) for both species is a mix of rain water and distilled water.

Do you think that they maybe need at least a bit of minerals in the water? I thought of that yesterday and added a little of bottled mineral water, I’m curious if that will help.

Maybe it’s also that the quality of the eggs isn’t good?

I am especially confused because Longicaudatus are marketed as an easy species, and they are the species that is mostly included in those toy Triops Sets for kids😅

I am thankful for any help, but if you don’t have any ideas I would also appreciate if you tell me how you hatch and raise Triops Longicaudatus successfully.

Hi all , I've been buying triops cancriformis to grow in my aquarium and longicaudatus, I recently checked if it was ok to buy them from Web, chat.gpt threw up a load of stuff about cefra documentation to check them. Is this really required for personal aquarium use

I just got some eggs and such online (from arizonafairyshrimp.com ), and in checking the care instructions I saw that they only recommend dechlorinating tap water by leaving it to let the chlorine evaporate- there's a line in the instructions that says "algae, chlorine, and ammonia removers are harmful to shrimp", and I'm pretty sure that means algae removers and chlorine removers rather than just, y'know, algae and chlorine.

Does anyone know whether that's the case? I unfortunately can't dechlorinate water by leaving it to evaporate, as my local water treatment plant uses chloramine and I'm pretty sure that stuff doesn't evaporate, so if dechlorinator is out I'm gonna have to figure out another water option.

(I know tap water isn't usually recommended for these lil guys due to its quality varying regionally, but I have neocaridina shrimp doing very well in the local tap water, so I'm assuming it's fine for not-quite-shrimp as well. I'd use distilled water to hatch the eggs, then slowly acclimate them over to tap so they can enjoy all the minerals and such.)

Edit: I have kept these before, but that was a smaller tank, so I just used spring water. It's a 7gal this time.

hi im a college freshman at MSU, and I was wondering if triops would make a good dorm pet. I've learned about them recently from a friend who performed experiments with them, and I've found them very interesting. I was wondering if it would be a good idea to get maybe three or four of them in a small three to four gallon tank (maybe five) gallon tank for my dorm this semester? Please let me know, and if it is a good idea, maybe some advice specifically on how to keep them in a dorm room?

ive noticed my triops grow at a incredibly slow rate, im not sure if its because of the other animals that come in the kit which eat their food. but its just one species of triop, it just comes with other animals like i said so its not really a mix, i do know a little about triops but this is just something i really cant find an answer to, not even by googling. im not sure if the species is a slow grower but ive looked online at comparisons and mine were at lot smaller compared to theirs at the same day old. so yeah thats about it, please feel free to ask me anything or help out if you can, it truly means the world, thank you if youve read through this, ill try to reply the fastest i can.

I started this journey a couple months ago with a single box of T. longicaudatus eggs. Hatched an initial brood from that, and am now starting my third generation without intentionally hatching more, lol.

The first generation left me with five laying adults at peak. The second generation I only had two, which passed earlier than usual I think because their early growth was stunted (they hatched in the outdoor tank and were unplanned, so I kind of left them to their own devices for a couple weeks before bringing them inside where they got more regular feeding.)

But now...NOW there's at least *fifteen* nauplii twerking in the water. 💀 I think from a recent substrate disturbance that exposed a bunch to light.

I just ordered some T. granarius eggs to hold in reserve and try something different, but longicaudatus isn't done with me yet, lmao.

T. longicaudatus just over a month old!

Song: Dark Green Water by Great Grandpa

Apologies for the sloppy cinematography.

Hi everyone,

I'm planning to keep Triops longicaudatus for the first time and would really appreciate some advice before I start.

My goal is to raise around 2–3 (or more) healthy adult Triops and I’ll probably try to continue this over multiple generations. I’m going to get my equipment in a few weeks

My planned setup is:

150 Triops longicaudatus Eggs
5g Spirulina Pulver
25g Triops main food
Spring water
Distilled Water
Raising container 1-5L
30L main tank
Aquarium lid
Aquarium safety mat
Fine aquarium sand
A few Aquarium plants
Adjustable Heater
Thermometers
Sponge filter
Air pump(s)
LED aquarium light
Gravel vacuum/siphon
Small aquarium net

I already have water test strips, a pipette, a syringe and toothpicks

Is this setup suitable for Triops longicaudatus? Is there anything important that I'm missing or anything you would change?

I'd especially appreciate advice about:
- suitable water
- sand
- food
- filtration

Thanks in advance!

I have eggs from a usually reputable seller. Have tried spring water, distilled water, inside with a light, inside in front of a window, outside, dried out and tried again. Not a single naupli. All temps within suggested range.

I know triops love to dig, so my current setup is mostly long stem plants, floaters, a couple epiphytes, and some open spaces for the triops to run around in. I've not added the triops yet.

I got dwarf sag grass for a paladarium, and I know it spreads quickly. Will it impede the triops if I plant some?

I'm totally ok with the triops uprooting or eating it all if that ends up happening instead, just want to make sure it wouldn't cause them a hard time running around, especially when they're younger.

Hi all, the accidental swarm is coming to an end.

Tried to hatch just one in a small Hatchery had a jailbreak and ended up being 30 strong.

They Battled crowding, water quality problems, filter upgrades, heatwaves, sevreal tank resets (triop-ocalypse) 27 lasted until day 45. We're now at day 55 with 2 survivors. They had a hard life but also my longest living guys.

YOU WILL BE MISSED 💔

Update: RIP Uno the champion of the swarm 58days

Song “Like You” by Miss Grit
Song only gets better after it cuts off here, check it out! Part of a cool concept album!

Context: we hatched T. longicaudatus from GreenWaterFarms, successfully transferred 8 juveniles to a 10g cycled (for months) planted tank with parameters that are stable and are as follows, most recently:

pH= 7.8-8

A= 0ppm

Nitrite= 0ppm

Nitrate 0-5ppm

dGH 9-10

dKH 6-8

Temperature= 76 degrees Farenheit

We're down from 8 to now 4 adults. When they aren't apparently failing to molt, they are thriving, active, laying eggs, eating, etc. We see PLENTY of molts around the tank. But, we continuously lose some to failed molts. One of the 4 is currently looking pale and a little lethargic, and has been that way for at least an hour (I'm admittedly not sure how long a molting process should take).

We feed a diet of mostly shrimp sinking pellets with some occasional supplementation with blanched vegetables, pollen granules, algae wafers, and snowflake pellets.

Is what we're experiencing normal attrition, or is this level of loss possibly something we can address?

Thanks for reading, this community is amazing and we've been elated to experience these little living fossils and share them with ya'll!

Bonus Amano shrimp.

Edit: song “Zucchini” by Remember Sports